18th Century LongBoat by jburchfield1 - Model Shipways - 1/4" scale - SMALL - 1st ever build

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Just got notification of shipment and since I'm really excited about this - just getting ready.

 

Supposed to have the kit within the week.

 

Be aware that I only have my 2MP phone for pics so hope that will be good enough.

 

Not sure how to get the title in bold like everybody else but at least it's here.

[Don Jane]

Welcome Pops - looking forward to seeing the progress on your longboat. Any help you need, you will be able to get it rite here on MSW.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

K, got my book today Ship Model Simplified.  Something to read while I'm sitting here tapping my toes waiting on the kit.

 

As an aside, I just noticed (I'm a little slow sometimes) that there is a group build of this on the Online Projects section.  If this shud have been there maybe one of the moderators could move it for me?

[mtaylor]

Pops,

 

Your log is in the right place.  I guessing someone moved it.   As for "bold"... the only time the title is in bold is for a topic you haven't read, or one with posts you haven't read.   Pick and choose what to read at your leisure.. 

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

FINALLY! got my kit today and made sure everything was there.  Was missing a couple of strips but knowing that I would probably break some I already ordered some extra.  Just gotta pick up a couple small tools tomorrow and I can get started on my boat!  

 

Before I get to the planking I would ask if somebody could please clear up some confusion I have.

 

All of the tutorials that I have read on planking specifically warn AGAINST bending the plank(s) laterally, yet in this build it appears from these logs and the instructions that we are doing just that.  

 

Is that because of this is a boat and not a ship, or because it's so small or ................

 

Just curious 'cause I really want this to turn out well.  It's my first, but I can already tell you it won't be my last!

[Chuck]

Its just another way....There are many techniques out there and you must find the one you are most comfortable with.  Those that say you should never do this or that.....well,  they are just partial to one method over another.  You could spile and cut the shape or try something else.  As long as the run of the strakes are proper....it doesnt matter.  The proof is in the pudding so to speak.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

K, cool.  Thanks Chuck.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

K, went shopping today and got my "toy" tools, glue, etc.

 

Got everything de-charred (don't know if that's a word or not but............) and already broke the transom, gotta be more careful with that sharp x-acto blade.  It's ok though, I just went and bought a sheet and re-cut it.  Will be starting on the keel bevel tomorrow morning so.......

 

Just a small note about me.  I tend toward perfectionism but I'm not a really sensitive person (people who know me call me Spock).  I want to learn to do this the best way possible. If ANYBODY sees ANYTHING that is wrong or could be done a better way, don't even hesitate to tell me. You don't even gotta be polite as far as I'm concerned.  Don't just let it slide.  I promise I will not be offended.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

K, I've looked and looked and can't find........

 

Is there a thread, tute, or something on fairing the hull after the bulkheads are installed?

[Mike Y]

Not sure if there is any, it's quite straightforward: take a plank, put it on a future frames like you are doing the planking, and make sure that all bulkheads have a full contact with the plank, not only in a small point. 

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Thanks for the information Mike.

 

On another note I've finally got this camera working so here's my first shot.  Not much to see, just the keel, but I'm making sure I know how to upload these images

 

 

K, looks like I got that figured out.  Gonna start working on the bulkheads.

 

 

Edited April 28, 2014 by Pops

[Mike Y]

You can fair them after installation on a keel, to get a proper shape.

However, do it carefully to avoid breaking the frames. Knife or some light touch of a dremel, or whatever tool you prefer. But only up/down sanding, do not sand back and forth, otherwise a frame can break.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

This may sound like sarcasm but I promise you it's not.  

 

Good thing you mentioned to use an up and down stroke.  I really never even thought about them breaking when going the other way.  

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

I was just doing some reading ahead while waiting on glue to dry and came up with another question.

 

Can parts that have been CA'd together be blackened?

 

I know you would have to clean them before gluing because the acetone would dissolve the glue but can you then blacken them or must they be painted.

[mtaylor]

I was just doing some reading ahead while waiting on glue to dry and came up with another question.

 

Can parts that have been CA'd together be blackened?

 

I know you would have to clean them before gluing because the acetone would dissolve the glue but can you then blacken them or must they be painted.

 

Pops,

You'll have to paint them. 

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Good to know, thanks.  Could have made a mess. 

 

Guess I need to learn to silver solder.  

Edited April 29, 2014 by Pops

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

K here it is with the bulkheads.

 

Ready to start fairing later today after the glue dries.

 

[Mike Y]

Looks good! Doublecheck that all frames are properly aligned, so there would be no "holes" and "bulges" because some frame is a bit non-aligned. I did that mistake on my pinnace, it's unfixable on later phases. Take a plank and see how it goes, hull must be perfectly symmetric.

 

Small hint - it would be easier to make a planking if you glue all frames together with a few strips on top:

 

And then glue some scrap wood in the center of the hull, to just clamp it into a table vice:

 

It is much easier to plank when hull is firmly fixed, you don't need to hold it, and frames are not wiggling (because they are glued together).

All that strips will go away when you remove the frame centers, so they do not affect any end result.

 

 

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Thanks for the tips Mike.  I'm nervous about planking but at the same time excited to see how I can do.

[Mike Y]

Just use some reversable glue, so you can add alcohol or water and remove incorrect plank.

It is tricky on such open hull, and do not count on sanding to make it smooth - planks are too thin.

But just take it slowlt, you will make it!

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Yeah, I'm using Titebond for everything.  Only used CA to add supports to top of bulkheads.

 

Got the structure solid enough that I can actually fair the hull by sanding horizontally instead of vertically.  Much easier and faster.  Got one side done already.

 

But keep those tips/tricks coming.

Edited April 29, 2014 by Pops

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Well, fairing the hull wasn't as scary as I thought.  Got that all done, and ready to put the transom on and then try my hand at some planking.

 

Pray for me?  

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Looking at this section of the plans...........

 

 

So that I can understand what I'm looking at on the plans.  This appears to be profile of all the bulkheads with the bow view to the right of the keel and the aft view to the left of the keel.

 

Is that right?  and is it universal to all plans?

 

 

[Chuck]

That is correct.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Thank you Chuck.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Well, tried to start planking today and knocked that darn transom off again.  

 

Shaped 5 of the oars while I was waiting on glue.  Used a sponge sanding pad to round the handles.  Worked like a charm.

 

Guess I'll start planking tomorrow.  

[Geoff Matson]

Hello  Pops.

 

I love your build. I am the  guy who gave Bob F. the glass plate. At the time I was working for an Auto Glass company. The glass is just a scrape piece of Laminated plate glass used for old car windows. I am sure if you go to any good Auto Glass Company in your area you can get a piece in the size you want. For our club meeting I just cut up some scrape glass into 6" to 8" squares. They might just give you a scrape piece. One of the best uses for the glass is for gluing. I just put some of the CA on the glass, dip a pin in the glue and put a dot where I want the glue to be. Then when the glue has dried, I just scrape the old glue off with a razor blade and it is ready to go again. Happy modeling

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Hey Geoff,

 

Thanks for the info.  I'll look into that.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Well, on a temporary hold as far as planking goes.

 

Found out the my house wiring is too old to use a blow dryer (can you believe that).  Guess I've only got 14 ga wiring with a max watt load of about 1550 or so.  Smallest blow dryer I've been able to find needs 1875 so it would overheat the wiring.

 

So I ordered on of those plank bending tools by Amati.  Supposed to get it on Wednesday.  That'll let me bend on the face without water.  Guess I'll just have to let them dry overnight for the edge bends.

 

In the meantime, I think I'll start working on the mast's and stuff.  No bending necessary!  

[aliluke]

Hi Pops

Hair dryers draw more electricity than anything - believe it! I holiday in a place which is off grid. Solar and PV panels provide the only power. Hair dryers are banned! They'll suck the life out of a fully charged battery in seconds and then we live in darkness.

 

As per my PM, you don't need a hair dryer or any other device. Wet the wood, clamp it around a curved object - a cup or some such thing - and wait for it to dry all by itself. Slow, dull but very gentle on the wood and effective.