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Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale (POF)


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Beautiful work on the triple block.  The lettered cover plate is a brilliant touch.

 

Dan

Current build -SS Mayaguez (c.1975) scale 1/16" = 1' (1:192) by Dan Pariser

 

Prior scratch builds - Royal yacht Henrietta, USS Monitor, USS Maine, HMS Pelican, SS America, SS Rex, SS Uruguay, Viking knarr, Gokstad ship, Thames River Skiff , USS OneidaSwan 42 racing yacht  Queen Anne's Revenge (1710) SS Andrea Doria (1952), SS Michelangelo (1962) , Queen Anne's Revenge (2nd model) USS/SS Leviathan (1914),  James B Colgate (1892),  POW bone model (circa 1800) restoration

 

Prior kit builds - AL Dallas, Mamoli Bounty. Bluejacket America, North River Diligence, Airfix Sovereign of the Seas

 

"Take big bites.  Moderation is for monks."  Robert A. Heinlein

 

 

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Every part of this boat is so well done it would be nice to have that “I shrunk the kids” machine to become small enough to sail her yourself. 

 

As for sail winch I saw a 5 foot boat, with big sails, where the owner used a reversing screwdriver/drill with a torque control for the winch.  I'm sure you'll work something out.

 

Bob

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  SS_ Mariefred

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II,   Two Edwardian Launches 

 

In the Gallery:   Catboat,   International-Dragon-Class,   Spray

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Thank you all for your kind remarks and for all those who pushed the like button.

 

I did a little work today on the bracket to hold the main-sheet tackle to the deck.

 

First some sketches after looking at a few on the web.

 

post-202-0-85204100-1395381880_thumb.jpg

 

the block of brass was 2 inches by 1/2 inch by 7/8th inch. using a 5/16 ball end I roughed out the main block.

 

post-202-0-34400300-1395381882_thumb.jpg

 

Then with files after the rest of the machining got the block to the final shape.

 

post-202-0-39847400-1395381883_thumb.jpg

 

A little more work with finer files and some wet and dry sandpaper then a buff in the dremmel

 

post-202-0-50641700-1395381884_thumb.jpg

 

A pin machined down from some 3/16th with a 2x56 thread for the cap end.

 

post-202-0-45633200-1395381879_thumb.jpg

 

Next the central unit that will be sandwiched between some rubber buffers each side, that the shackle and lower block attach to.

 

Michael

 

 

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Michael........the Metal Maniac......hmmmmm,  has a nice ring to it  :)   sweet stuff!

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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I had posted this last night but....

 

Again thanks for all the positive comments and for the likes.

 

Yesterday I finished up the deck part of the main sheet tackle. first I used some rubber like insulation from some heavy wire.

 

post-202-0-33879400-1395500554_thumb.jpg

 

I slipped about 3/4 of an inch onto some 1/8th inch diameter brass rod and parted it off into some 1/4 inch long sections.

 

post-202-0-34006200-1395500552_thumb.jpg

 

then made the small sliding part after grinding up a form milling cutter. after fitting it up I spent the rest of the day making the two single blocks and fitting them to the deck.

 

post-202-0-71990100-1395501512_thumb.jpg

 

I swung out the boom to finish threading the rope plus I wanted to see how much rope I would need it turned out to be almost 18 feet, with about 1 foot laying on each side of the cockpit as part of that distance.

 

post-202-0-37961000-1395500556_thumb.jpg

 

post-202-0-98369900-1395500557_thumb.jpg

 

All I need to do to finish the main sheet control now is to add either a couple of cleats to the deck or to set in some bits and also to fit a proper bit of hardware to the boom.

 

post-202-0-32070100-1395500550_thumb.jpg

 

I have also been looking at the whole way the rudder assembly is fitted and the way it penetrates the deck. The tiller attachment area is a bit small and I don't like the fact that it is fixed.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Yes, the sheet takes a lot of rope and multiplies every time it passes through the blocks.

 

I can almost imagine myself walking that deck and getting ready to sail.

 

Bob

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  SS_ Mariefred

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II,   Two Edwardian Launches 

 

In the Gallery:   Catboat,   International-Dragon-Class,   Spray

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Michael

I so much enjoy reading of your latest R&D. I take so much useful knowledge from seeing your creative abilities at work.

Thanks for sharing, seeing the parts made as real working models helps to understand the physics of the rig and how it works. From a person the was completely ignorant of anything about ship/boat rigging when 2013 started, I have come a very long way in my understanding. I can only get so much understanding from reading, your build log has given me not just the visual finished product, but the processes of how its made, why its made that way and how it is ultimately used.

 

A perfect example would be the picture of the block assembly. The one picture where you show the line clearance... I always just thought the opening to have equal distances between the block and sheave, but I now see that the opening is only opened for the line and close on the opposite side. The light bulb went off as to how much stronger this would make a block assembly. The realization of this asymmetry in the horizontal plane of the block assemble was just an example of why I find your build log SO OUTSTANDING.

Please know that your mentorship to so many of us is greatly appreciated. I stopped rigging my pilot boat build as I wish to modify the kit inaccuracies and am watch your masterful work as an online apprenticeship of sorts.

 

I really like the personalized block brass piece. Such an amazing touch. Every time I leave your log I think, ok what else can Michael do that will be more amazing and without fail I always come back to see a job that just keeps becoming more engrossing. Your build log is like a great novel that comes in installments and one can't wait to see what happens next.

 

Be well my friend.

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Would love to spend time in your shop learning the underlying techniques and skills you bring to your work!!

 

Cheers,

pop by anytime Jay the tea kettle is always on.

 

 

I can almost imagine myself walking that deck and getting ready to sail.

One of my own little fantasies Bob.

 

 

It doesn't seem to matter whether you are working with wood or metal

Sherry I love working with both materials, the beauty of boat models is the variety of materials that one gets to work with.

 

 

your build log has given me not just the visual finished product, but the processes of how its made, why its made that way and how it is ultimately used.

Keith thank you for you very nice commentary about my build log. One of the most important things for me is to understand the how and why of what I am making and if my account of what I am making is helpful then the sharing is worth the time it takes. I feel so much more informed from all the amazing builds on this forum that my own knowledge expands every day I log in.

 

John Thanks for your kind words

 

 

they look full scale; until I see your hand in the photo

Ah mark its all smoke and mirrors. Thanks for the compliment.

 

Today was a fun day I finally finished the main sheet attachment to the boom.

 

First I did a forging test with some 1/4 inch brass stock I necked down about 3/4 of an inch to about 1/8th leaving a 1/4 inch long full diameter at the end. this was annealed and forged on the railroad anvil four times to flatten out the end.

 

post-202-0-83070000-1395536262_thumb.jpg

 

post-202-0-91115600-1395536264_thumb.jpg

 

After seeing that the forging would work for what I needed, a length of 1/4 inch rod was cut to 2 1/2 inch length with the centre necked down to the 1/8th diameter.  both end were then forged to the same shape as the test piece on the railroad track anvil.

 

after bending the curve into the smaller diameter (if I were to make another I would make it about 1/4 inch shorter) the unit was set up in the vice for drilling. A block of maple the same width as the boom was sandwiched between the ends to support the brass flange while the holes were drilled and then counter-bored to create flats in the slightly tapering flattened flange. The centre hole is 1/8th to allow a brass Chicago screw to replace the pin holding the clew out-haul sheave.

 

post-202-0-43898800-1395536266_thumb.jpg

 

next the hole was reamed to ensure they were aligned.

 

post-202-0-66812500-1395536267_thumb.jpg

 

after clean up.

 

post-202-0-93045700-1395536268_thumb.jpg

 

removing the temporary pin.

 

post-202-0-30972400-1395536270_thumb.jpg

 

fixing the new tackle

 

post-202-0-22666800-1395536271_thumb.jpg

 

Done

 

post-202-0-75875700-1395536272_thumb.jpg

 

post-202-0-96438700-1395536260_thumb.jpg

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Just fantastic work, Michael. 

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Again, beautifully made Michael, lessons being learned left, right and centre here.

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so cool Michael.......... in so many ways,  a life-like replica!  :)

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Michael,

 

Just scale up those metal fitting to full size, and you could open a boat chandler shop. Can you do a line in flotation devices?  ;-)

 

Forging--beyond my comprehension how you do it, and do it so well.

 

Mark

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Again thank you all for the kind comments and for all the likes.

 

 

Forging--beyond my comprehension how you do it, and do it so well.

 

 Mark

 

To answer you question, The original test piece was annealed at the other end.

 

post-202-0-57170700-1395589123_thumb.jpg

 

post-202-0-35047900-1395589125_thumb.jpg

 

then a small hammer was used to flatten the end

 

post-202-0-82855700-1395589126_thumb.jpg

 

after about 6 or 7 blows the brass has become work hardened

 

post-202-0-45960900-1395589128_thumb.jpg

 

After a second annealing and another 6 or 7 hammer blows the step was repeated because again the brass becomes work hardened

 

post-202-0-87156500-1395589129_thumb.jpg

 

a third time for the annealing and another 10 or so blows, as the metal flattens a larger area needs to be hammered so it takes more blows, the weight or force of each blow remains pretty constant from the beginning to this this point, one gets into a rhythm just like any other repetitive task.

 

post-202-0-25918400-1395589131_thumb.jpg

 

A fourth time was repeated as before, to get the new end similar to the first. on this test piece (I did not accurately measure both full diameter lengths at each end because they were done at different times, on the piece that is attached to the boom the ends were both turned before the flattening to ensure the same volume of material would squash out.)

After a clean up with the wire wheel the centre portion is annealed to soften it to be bent around a piece of rod.

 

post-202-0-97024100-1395589132_thumb.jpg

 

The rod diameter need to be close to the final shape because there is very little spring to the brass after it is annealed, as it is bent it begins to work harden again which is good because the final shape needs to be hardened enough to retain its shape. the aluminum scrap here is 1 inch in diameter

 

post-202-0-79077500-1395589134_thumb.jpg

 

next a smaller diameter piece of wood was used, it was a conveniently smaller diameter, to close in the ends a little tighter than the main curve

 

post-202-0-64351100-1395589136_thumb.jpg

 

then the piece was squeezed onto the block of maple that I used for the final one that is on the boom this was so that the drilling could be done without the piece deforming any more.

 

post-202-0-93150600-1395589121_thumb.jpg

 

The drilling was explained in the last entry in the build log.

 

I hope this helps to see how easy some of these tasks are when you break them down into their small steps.

 

1 Turn to diameter

 

2 heat to soften (annealing brass, heat to red then quench in cold water)

 

3 shape with hammer

 

4 reheat , as many times as needed to gain the desired amount of flattening

 

5 shape to final form

 

6 machine holes and finish shaping with files.

 

7 polish with emery and steel wool.

 

Michael

 

 

 

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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I and I assume many others appreciate your posting with images on this form. It's kind of being there in your shop and working alongside you.

 

Mike, thanks once again.

 

S.os

New Bedford Whaleboat build. Kit by Model Shipways

 

 

I've been making progress on my model and according to the instruction booklet I should be painting it, at least parts of it.

Are acrylic's ok ? I did apply a sanding sealer. but I want to stain the untreated floor boards which are walnut.

 

Thanks

 

 

 

S.O.S.

 

 

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Beautiful metal work Micheal,

 

I can imagine the fun you have in creating those lovely Fittings

Well done !

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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