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Pickle by Blue Ensign - Jotika 1.64 scale pob kit


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#41
Jim Lad

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Great information and detail of your research as well as a terrific build, B.E.

 

John



#42
bigcreekdad

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Masterful job!!

 

The Pickle is on my waiting to start kit shelf. I know I will be referring to this log often when I start her.

 

I'm still thinking of not coppering the hull and going with something other than the stock walnut for the second planking. I love the look of wood, and have just not been a coppering guy. That being said, your coppering job is great.

 

Thanks for sharing.



#43
Blue Ensign

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Very nice log B.E. You have alot of information here that will benefit all. Thanks

Frank

Thanks Frank, for looking in on my build, I'm pleased you like it :)

Great information and detail of your research as well as a terrific build, B.E.

 

John

It great to receive such positive comments from yourself John, thank you so much.

 

Masterful job!!

 

The Pickle is on my waiting to start kit shelf. I know I will be referring to this log often when I start her.

 

I'm still thinking of not coppering the hull and going with something other than the stock walnut for the second planking. I love the look of wood, and have just not been a coppering guy. That being said, your coppering job is great.

 

Thanks for sharing.

I don't think you will be disappointed with Pickle  bcd, the build gave me a high satisfaction level, and it was my hope in posting this log that it would assist and encourage other to take her on. Thank you.



#44
Blue Ensign

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The Pickle Boats

 

Jotika have provided two boats, a `19’ Launch and a 14’ Cutter or Jolly boat.

 

I rather think that a cutter would be more likely than a Launch in such a small vessel, but whatever, the 19’ boat is shaped more like a Launch, whereas the jolly boat is more definitely a cutter shape.

 

Two boats would seem to be the right complement for the Pickle, but I would have preferred it had Jotika supplied an 18’ cutter rather than the launch. I do know that Pickle carried two boats, a cutter and a jolly boat, why Jotika went with a 19' Launch I don't know.

 

Provided are blank resin hulls; black cartridge paper is provided to make and represent the ribs. The hull is supposed to be simply painted with the application of walnut strip to make the thwarts and strakes etc.

 

These are the basic hulls.

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The idea of cartridge paper for the ribs did not really appeal, and I decided to use styrene strip for the interior framework. I also wanted to reflect the planking on the inside but without adding too much to the thickness.

 

First off a keelson was laid down the centre using 1x1.5mm strip.

 

To represent the planking from the inside I used strips of good quality printer paper stuck down with pva. Over this are fixed the ribs of 0.75 x 1.5mm styrene strip.
 

The ‘paper’ planking was coated with a light oak water based varnish with a touch of Caldercraft yellow ochre w/b paint added.

Several coats later and a topping of Caldercraft Flat- Matt varnish, this is the result.

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The planking lines are apparent and the desired effect achieved.
 

Much of it will be covered by the ribs and other internal fittings, and final finishing will be done once the ribs are put into place.

Next the ribs of 0.75 x 1.5mm styrene strip are added.

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Here all the ribs are in place and the Rising Planks on which the thwarts rest have been fitted. A simple depth jig was used to check that the rising planks were the required 3mm below the top of the sides along the length of the hull.
 

Temporary thwarts are in place to check the levels across the boat.

 

If you’re not a purist, I am certainly not, styrene strip makes excellent internal small boat structures, although had the boats been of all wooden contruction I would have put in the extra effort to replicate the ribs etc in boxwood strip.

 

Still at the end of the day, it’s how the finished article looks and how far it fulfils a modellers satisfaction levels.

 

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To reflect the finish of Pickle herself, I planked the outside with 2.5mm boxwood and ebony strip, applied with ca. I wanted to continue the theme of as little paint as possible so the hull will be left natural.

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The bottom boards or footwaling.

 

Jotika provide a ply template for this over which boarding is stuck.
 

The bottom boards are butted together and run the length of the boat. This accords with the fittings of many Launches of the period. Boxwood strip rather than the provided walnut was used. The only addition, a step to take the mast, and a ring bolt at the stern.

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A 0.75x2.5mm styrene strip capping rail was fitted, into which the rowlocks were cut, I also took the opportunity to fit a breasthook.*

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*( A breasthook is a wooden knee to add strength to the bows, no ship’s boat should be without one)

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When I tried the Launch/cutter on the Pickle deck it seemed to take up an inordinate amount of room, looks like it would have been a tricky exercise getting the boat over the side avoiding the shrouds and stays.

The backstays and vang tackle are not even fitted at this stage.

100_9454.jpg

 

to be cont'd...

 

B.E.


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#45
Blue Ensign

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Launch cont'd

 

Jotika only provide two half chocks to support the boat, the inference being that the boat is supported on the starboard side by the Pickle’s bulwark.
 

This seemed odd to me so I fashioned a pair of full chocks on which to rest the Launch.

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Having spent a fair bit of time making the bally boat, I’m now not sure I like it - hmmn I think I will have to ponder on that.
I certainly think I will only display one boat on the deck even if I decide to go ahead.

 

Pickle_Const085_lrg.jpg

The kit arrangement.

 

How would they manhandle a boat of that size outboard given the rigging incumbrances.

 

I've a fair idea of how the boats were swung in and out, using a triatic stay slung between the two mast pendants, with tackles attached to ring bolts within the boat to raise it above the bulwarks, further tackles slung from the yardarm, and probably the Fore gaff, to swing it out.

 

Can you imagine how tricky that could be with an overlarge ships boat, keeping it steady to avoid crashing into the rigging, or worse the masts, she would have to hove to in any case to launch a boat, but in anything other than a millpond sea, she would still be rolling and pitching to varying degrees.

 

I really wanted to display a boat on the deck, maybe a replacement cutter of slightly less size, and some modifications learned from the building of the Launch.

 

The 14’ Cutter

 

This is not a bad shape and at least I know it will fit on the deck without giving the impression of trying to squeeze a quart into a pint pot.

 

I took a different approach with the Jolly boat.

 

Exterior planking was done clinker fashion using strips from computer label paper.

 

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I decided that planking the inside of the hull was a waste of time as the planks were hardly visible on the larger boat when finished, and they just add to the thickness of the gunwales.

 

On this boat I used styrene strip of 0.5 x 1.5mm for the ribs and keelson, 0.5 x 2 mm for the rising plank.

The gunnels I made from 0.75mmx1.5mm styrene strip.

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Small boats are tricky to hold whilst working, but a cut out in a block of balsa goes a long way to keep it steady.

To avoid unnecessary thickness I left the ribs long so that they would support the thin gunnels.

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Basic internal structure completed, paper patterns for the foredeck and stern sheet gratings

 

Jotika suggest that there were no bottom boards or knees, but I have modified the interior to reflect the drawings in the McGowan Victory book, and other reference sources.

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Bottom boards have been fitted, a grating in the stern sheets, and a small foredeck at the bow. The gratings which are nice features in small boats were left over from the main build but necessitated taking down to a fraction of their original thickness to suit.

 

Boxwood strip was used for the thwarts and ring bolts fitted at the bow and stern.

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Modified chocks.

 

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In keeping with the muted colours of the main model I decided to colour the oars in a natural wood finish, white looked too stark to my eye, and there is no white anywhere else on the vessel.

 

She certainly looks more in scale to the size of Pickle, so the 19’ launch will not be displayed on the model.

 

B.E.

 

 


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#46
ccoyle

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All looks very nice, B.E.!


Chris Coyle
Mariposa, California

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#47
Blue Ensign

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Cheers Chris :)

 

Anchors

 

A white metal anchor is provided with the Pickle kit to be fitted on the Starboard side.
 

I was a little puzzled by this as my research suggested that she should have at least three, two bowers of 6cwt plus a smaller kedge.
I bought a second matching anchor plus a kedge.

 

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The observant may have noticed the absence of catheads on Pickle, something that puzzled me somewhat.
 

In my research I discovered that it is entirely possible that catheads were not fitted given the relatively light weight of the anchors, and that a Fish tackle from the Masthead was used to raise the anchor.

 

I may still yet fit one of these to demonstrate the principle.

 

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The stocks of the anchors required some fettlin’ to obtain the correct shape and I wasn’t happy with the given dimensions of the anchor rings.
 

The ends of the anchor stocks have been rounded off in accordance with practice of the time.

 

The use of an inside clinch to secure the anchor cable can be seen here. I was tempted to use a Fishermans Bend, an interesting knot, which was sometimes used on smaller anchors, but decided in the end to stick with the clinch.

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Jotika suggest that wire is wrapped around a 6mm dia dowel to produce the rings, but this looked out of scale to my eye.

 

As with everything naval, anchor proportions were subject to specific rules, the ring diameter on small anchors is something in the order of 1/8th of the length of the shank.
 

This is 33.15mm so the anchor ring should be in the order of 4mm.

 

After clean up the anchors were painted with humbrol iron grey rather than black, gave a better scale effect I thought.

 

For the iron stock bands Jotika suggest using strips of black cartridge paper,I preferred to use the brass etched framing from their eyelets as the banding.

 

1.3mm line is supplied for the anchor cable; I checked this against known formulae - ½” circumference of line for every foot of maximum hull width.

 

This did indeed work out at 1.3mm Ø line – well done Jotika.

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The anchor cable however is far too white for my taste ; I rather thought it would have a sort of greyish appearance so I soaked it in ‘dirty’ water to dull it down.
The anchor is secured to eyebolts fixed atop the rail with thread.

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I wasn’t sure about the authenticity of this so I modified the lashing using 23 links to the inch chain to secure the one fastening with chain secured with a rope lashing to a ring bolt in the deck. The second lashing was line secured around the capping rail eyebolt.

The effect I was after with the anchors was a slightly worn/weathered appearance, and to this end I am satisfied with the result.

The Kedge

This is lashed to the Starboard aft bulwark on the Naval Museum model, Jotika did not include one with their kit.

015.JPG

No historical evidence for it but I rather fancied securing it to aft face of the skylight, seemed a reasonable place to store it.

017.JPG

 

B.E.


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#48
Blue Ensign

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A few odds and ends

 

Rudder coat and pendants.

 

I usually make rudder coats out of micro-porus tape as it has a sort of canvas finish to it and has the added advantage of a sticky back.
Rudder coats are a sort of bell shape in plan but cutting a pattern for a particular ship is a matter of trial and error.
 

There should be an element of ‘bag’ in the coat to allow free movement of the rudder
 

This is difficult to achieve without padding out the interior, I use a little cotton wool off a cotton bud for this purpose.
After this it is just a matter of teasing it into shape around the transom and rudder.

002.JPG

The canvas was tarred to waterproof it as much as possible and I have represented this with a black grey finish.

019.JPG

 

The Rudder pendants

 

Evidence is that even smallish vessels like Pickle would have had some system for retaining the rudder after all loss of rudder was no small matter.
I could not find any detailed information exactly how the pendants and chains would have been fitted on Pickle; similar smallish vessels are shown with the pendants taken up over the transom and secured to cleats on the inside. This method would foul the stern gunports in the case of Pickle.

030.JPG

I fitted chains to eyebolts secured in the rudder and to eyebolts in the lower transom, and contented myself with this arrangement for the present.

 

Anchor buoys

 

These too are an essential part of a ships equipment, they need to be clearly seen on the water, and the standard size is 54”x 30” with something in excess of 100’ of line.(475mm)
 

Smaller vessels such as Pickle would have had a smaller version and I scaled mine down to 36” x 20”
I made an egg shaped core from the cone shaped tips of two cheap bic prop pencils and planked these with styrene strip.
 

With the addition of eyebolts either end and 0.25mm line to form the slings and hoops and the job’s done.

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I don’t normally adhere to scale lengths of line but in this case I have measured out 18 fathoms of line (scale of course) to coil on the shrouds.

033.JPG

 

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041.JPG

Nearly there :)

 

 


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#49
Blue Ensign

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The Ensign Staff and Ensign.

 

The Ensign was printed on Modelspan tissue.
 

The advantage of this method is that the exact required size of flag can be obtained with on the model trialling until a size that pleases the eye is found.

 

A disadvantage of the method more specifically to the White Ensign is that the white background which of course is the basic paper colour does not show to the same advantage as the Red and Blue Ensigns.

 

To address the problem I coated the modelspan with diluted white water based paint before printing the flag and then painted over the Union colours using again water based paints.

 

I find that Chisel edged brushes are the best type to use for this action.

 

The modelspan is only coated on one side prior to printing because I found that coating both sides didn’t allow the printer ink to penetrate sufficiently thro’ to the other side.

 

004.JPG

Fixed to the flagstaff the ensign was then subjected to a little steam and was teased into shape using rods of differing thicknesses to hold the flag in a drooping attitude.

006.JPG

Matt varnish was then sprayed onto the flag to hold it in position, very light coats are required lest the colours run.

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028.JPG

 

The same method was used for the Union Flag at the Jackstaff; the staff itself was made from micro bore brass tubing with a styrene truck, thro’ which holes were drilled to take the Halyard.

 

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When I set the Union flag on the jackstaff I hadn't noticed that it was upside down, but fortunately my friend Pete Coleman on his forum where this log was originally posted  pointed this out and saved me from further embarrassment. Flying the ensign upside down is a  distress signal. :blush:

The matter was rectified.

025.JPG

A brass fret strip was used to make the tabernacle and the assembly was fixed to the aft face of the bowsprit cap using ca.

023.JPG

 

B.E


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#50
Blue Ensign

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Completion Photos

 

This post concludes my log of a nine month build.

 

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More to follow

 

B.E.


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#51
Blue Ensign

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Continuing...

 

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She will now take her place in the Dining Room to compliment the Naval cutter model that I bashed quite some time ago.

 

IMGP0405.JPG

They are a good match I think, and more importantly have the full approval of Mrs W :)

 

Specific reference works I have used during this build I list here.

 

The Naval Cutter Alert -  Peter Goodwin  (Conway AotS series)

 

The Global schooner - KH Mardquardt

 

The Colonial Schooner - H. Hahn.

 

Rigging Fore and Aft Craft - Lennarth Petersson

 

News of Nelson John Lapenotiere's race from Trafalgar to London  - Derek Allen and Peter Hore

 

My thanks to all who have  made such supportive comments on this log which I hope will provide a useful reference to those contemplating the build.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

 


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#52
mikeaidanh

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B.E.

 

What a pleasure to read your log of the Pickle build.

 

Mike.


Current Build: HMS Surprise. AL 1:48 (suspended)
Current Build: LA gun deck cross section.

Previous Build: Lancia Armata. Panart 1:16
Previous Build: HMS Pickle. Jotika 1:64

On the shelf: Sloupe Coquillier plans for scratch build.

#53
Jim Lad

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I agree.  A pleasure to read - and also a real pleasure to see your beautiful model!

 

John



#54
john46

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Having read your log with great pleasure. Nice built, nice pictures. Your beautiful work is inspiring.

 

Thanks and regards,

John


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#55
rdsaplala

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Thanks for sharing your HM Schooner Pickle log, B.E., outstanding work all through out, she's a real gem :)


Best regards,

Aldo

Currently Building:
HMS Pegasus (Victory Models)-Mothballed to give priority to Triton

 

HMS Triton (first attempt at scratchbuilding)

 

 


Past build:
HM Brig Badger (Caldercraft), HM Brig Cruizer, HM Schooner Ballahoo


#56
JPett

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Ahoy B.E.  :D

 

Looks like a really nice kit.

 

Great build and post. Thanks for sharing


Edited by JPett, 02 March 2013 - 01:30 AM.

 On with the Show.... B) 

 

  J.Pett

 

“If you're going through hell, keep going” (Winston Churchill)

 

Current build:  MS Rattlesnake (MS2028)

http://modelshipworl...28-scale-164th/

 

Side Build: HMS Victory: Corel

http://modelshipworl...l-198/?p=104762

 

On the back burner:  1949 Chris Craft Racer: Dumas

http://modelshipworl...as-kit-no-1702/

 

Sometime, but not sure when: Frigate Berlin: Corel

http://www.corel-srl.it/pdf/berlin.pdf

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 


#57
Long9Ron

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Beautiful build. Thank you for sharing it. I have learned a lot from it. 


Ron

 

 

Current Build: H.M.S. Triton Cross Section 1:48

 

Why is it that I always find out the best way to do something is after I have already done it the wrong way? - Me

 

 


#58
Dave Fellingham

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I considered Pickle as a future build and had the same objection to Jotika's treatment of the stern. I approve of your solution; very well done.

 

I like what you did rigging the guns, the correction of the relationship of the gaff and spreader, the correction of the ratlines and the changes you made in some of the running rigging.

 

Very well done indeed. Thank you very much for sharing your build.


esmeralda (3)sm.jpg

Current Builds:  ESMERALDA Chilean Navy School Ship, 1/640 in a bottle

insanity Dan Clapp's hard water race boat in a bottle

Completed Build:  Prairie Schooner OGALLALA 1/96 in a bottle

Research Project:  Cruizer-class Brig-Sloops

 

 

"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." - Benjamin Franklin


#59
Stockholm tar

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I must agree with the previous posts – an absolutely first class build BE, with good solutions for the many improvements. Your log was a joy to read. ;)  


Kester

 

Current builds: Sherbourne (Caldercraft) scale – 1/64th;

 

Statsraad Lehmkuhl (half model) 1/8th" – 1'.

 

Victory Bow Section (Panart/Mantua) scale – 1/78th  (on hold).

 

Previous build: Bluenose ll (Billings) scale – 1/100th.


#60
Blue Ensign

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Thank you all so much for your uplifting comments, I'm glad so many fellow ship modellers have found my build enjoyable and informative.

 

It has made my effort in  repeating the log on MSW  worthwhile. :)

 

Regards,

 

B.E.






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