DocBlake

NRG Battle Station by DocBlake

I'm beginning a build of the battle station posted on the NRG's website.  I plan several modifications to the original, andI have increased the scale to 1/2" = 1".  I started by cutting out the base, as well as some walnut and bloodwood for the bulwark framespost-3900-0-94909800-1411570727_thumb.jpg

 

I then dframed in the gunport with bloodwood.post-3900-0-45820200-1411570793_thumb.jpg

 

Next came a mahogany waterway.  The photo shows it shaped, but not yet cut to size or installed.post-3900-0-44450300-1411570900_thumb.jpg

 

I then planked the outside using rosewood for the wale, black strake and rail and boxwood for the planking.  The inner bulwark was planked in bloodwood.post-3900-0-40595200-1411571004_thumb.jpgpost-3900-0-53774600-1411571033_thumb.jpgpost-3900-0-95518000-1411571049_thumb.jpg

 

 I'm now working on details.  The photo shows boarding stairs, deadeyes and cannon parts.post-3900-0-84086000-1411571133_thumb.jpg

 

Dave

zrag0e, dadodude, mtaylor and 11 others like this

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A big thank you goes out to Russ for drafting and designing this fun project.  Its looking very good.  Enjoy it.

 

Anyone else thinking of tackling this project can find the plans and excellent instructions right here.

 

http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-build-and-practicums.php

 

 

 

Chuck

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post-3900-0-68654800-1412203353_thumb.jpgpost-3900-0-94094200-1412203368_thumb.jpgI finished the cannon.  Not rigged and the cap square is not installed.  i turned two barrels.  I'm not sure which one I like better.  I added the boarding steps and the channel.  The deadeyes and chain plates are just lying in place.  final installation after applying finish

 

Dave

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Working on the binnacle.  The compasses and lantern aren't done yet.  They will sit in their compartment which is lined in holly.  There will be an acetate window and a brass chimney with a conical top.  The binnacle is cherry.

 

Dave

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   I finished up the compasses.  I cut off two lengths of brass tubing and two lengths of wood dowel which were about 1/16 shorter than the brass.  I Zap-A-Gapped the dowel inside the tubing.  I then found some compass rose clipart and reduced it to the appropriate size, printed two copies and cut out the compass faces.  These were glued to the wood dowel with Weldbond.  I then filled the space from the cpompass face to the top of the dowel with Weldbond.  When it dried, it looked like the glass cover on a compass.  I may mount the compasses in shallow holes drilled into pieces of rosewood to simulate a wooden case.

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mtaylor, Canute and Omega1234 like this

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I couldn't find anything that worked in terms of scale for the hammock netting. I built this little "loom" and made my own! The setup makes two lengths of netting at the same time. Next is stiffening the netting with dilute Elmer's glue, fixing a line along each edge, then cutting the netting out.post-3900-0-80873600-1415751381_thumb.jpg
 
I found this technique http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/top ... k-netting/

But weaving the line was work beyond the pale. I cut notches in the wood and used one continuous length of thread wrapped around both sides, and then onother continuous thred the opposite direction to give the diamond shape. Several coats of dilute PVA, then black acrylic paint and the whole thing was stiff enough to keep from falling apart. The loom: took 1/2 hr. to lay out and make. The thread was applied to the loom in another 1/2 hr. Gluing and painting were quick, but took longer due to drying time. Much less labor intensive than actually weaving the netting. I'll post photos of the finished product a little later. The loom is made of 1/4 plywood. Throw it away when done.
 
Here is the netting after painting a couple of times with diluted PVA and 2 coats of flat black acrylic paint. It is plenty strong. post-3900-0-89265500-1415751528_thumb.jpg
 
I installed the hammock cranes, drilled 4 holes in each and strung tan line between then. I then fixed the netting to the rope. There were many ways to rig hammock netting. i like this one because of the color contrast between the tan and the black, and the little "sag" in the tan line between each crane.post-3900-0-08395200-1415751590_thumb.jpg

 

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Getting ready to finish the model. All the rigging is complete, and I just applied the first of 2 coats of poly to the inboard boarding ladder. All that is left is to mount the hardware on the cannon, deck and bulwark, install the inboard ladder, rig the cannon and glue everything down! Here's a shot of the cannon with tools, including a copper powder ladle, a worm and combination sponge and rammer. Note that I added a metal "tread" to each of the cannon trucks. I also plan to scratch build a couple of kegs and a bucket to mount on the deck.

 

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dvm27, mtaylor, AntonyUK and 2 others like this

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Doc,

 

It looks great.  Beautiful work on everything.

 

Just a minor point to keep in mind... on a wooden ship with a wooden deck, the trucks would not have been sheathed in metal as they would have torn the deck to shreds.  The only time they were metal sheathed would have been in garrison on a stone fort or in the case of pivot guns using a metal track. 

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Mark, you're right, of course.  I wasn't happy with the stark, non-contrasting maple trucks.  I toyed with radially arranged bolts to simulate a "built-up" truck, made of two slices, but opted for the brass tread, blackened before installing.  i like the contrast.  Let's pretend they are just painted, not metal!    :D 

 

Dave 

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Just finished the breeching line.  My research says it should be about 3 times as long as the barrel of the cannon.  My cannon measure 4 inches and the breeching line is 12 inches.  It think it may look a little sloppy.  Should I shorten each side by 1" to 1-1/2" or leave it as-is?

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scratch, Snocrash, dvm27 and 2 others like this

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Doc,

 

Roll the gun back and see how far it goes.  Eye appeal plays a big part in model-making.  If you're not happy with the way it looks, make yourself happy first.

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