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  2. Definitely early to think about, yes, Mustafa, but watching what you and others have done, and seeing what the gun deck addition does in improving the look of the Constitution with its detail, I can't not consider making that addition. Would definitely need to go back and look in extreme detail at what you all have done to add it, however. Thanks for asking!
  3. For the first planking layer it is very forgiving as you can sand and fill. For the second layer, it it is not to be covered with a copper bottom you may want to study the four part video on proper planking by Chuck Passaro. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCWooJ1o3cM Nearly all your planks appear to be lifted. Even with a more severe taper as Chris discusses, you can still get lift if the planks are not properly formed for the bend and so they all end at the rabbet rather than coming to a point and short of the rabbet at the stem. If the planks are preformed there is no need for nails. Finger pressure for 30-45 seconds if using PVA glue or a few seconds with CA is all that is needed. Allan
  4. Well, it depends what you are doing with them on a ship model ... Actually, I think there are four different topics here: 1) how to convert a 2D-paper drawing into a CAD-drawing 2) how to loft such drawings into a self-consistent data-set that produces a fair hull, and 3) how to convert the resulting CAD-drawing into instructions for the laser-cutter that produce the expected results. 4) is the laser-cutter available suitable for the task in hand As Chuck suggested, it may save a lot of time, effort and money to verify point 4 first. If the available laser-cutter is not suitable, it may be simpler to work the traditional way. On the other hand, as the envisaged model is planned to be only a foot and a half long, one may get away with quite thin (ply)wood or even cardstock. The bulkheads are only needed to define the shape of the hull, if the spaces in between are filled with a softer wood, e.g. balsa. The bulkhead do not need to be structural parts. One has to adapt the building technique to the available tools, in this case the laser-cutter. Some people work from sets of copies of original builders' plans, but it may be worthwhile going through steps (1) and (2) in any case, as this allows you to verify the fairing of the hull before one cuts anything. Even going only through step (1) is useful: if it turns out that a bulkhead is wrong, one can easily correct it in the 2D-CAD and print it out again.
  5. For a few days now I have been working on the model of the bragozzo. It is a self-built sailing ship with the help of Marzari's beautiful monograph on this type of Adriatic boats. The hull is about 52 cm long and is on a scale of 1:24.
  6. I also received recently the same yellow planks from ModelExpo when ordering boxwood for decks. I reached out to them with my concern about the color and they very promptly exchanged the originals for basswood which reflected the tone I was after. I appreciated their customer service and look forward to working with them again.
  7. My working out is different than the spread sheet. for a main mast length of 92.5 ft . According to Steel the diameter is 9/10 th an inch for every 3 ft for 1794 gives me 30.8x9/10=27.75" change to metric x 25.4 and divide by 64 =11.01mm Fore mast is 0.9 the length of the main mast after 1773= 83.25 ft /3ft = 27.25 x 9/10 = 24.975" x 25.4 then divide by 64 = 9.91mm. According to the book AOTS Diana they also have the main mast at 11.01mm but the fore mast diameter at 9.77mm . So another discrepancy. Any idea where I am going wrong???
  8. Michael, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
  9. Welcome to the Scottish part of MSW Another hearty vote for Vanguard Models.
  10. Today
  11. Not quite there yet Nic but I imagine it’s not far off. In the meantime he’s thoroughly enjoyed visits to the USS Slater, the Constitution, the Erie Canal locks in Waterford, and striper fishing in small boats off Cape Cod, where a 16 foot great white swam under the boat! A trip to Mystic is on his radar. We’re having a ton of nautical fun while the skiff waits patiently in the shadows. Steve
  12. Comparatively speaking, a container is fairly light. The heaviest containers are generally stowed low down, in the hold, rather than in the deck stacks. If the bridge was that vulnerable to collapse from a hit from a heavyweight container, I’d be more concerned every time a semi-truck jack-knifed (which happens waaayyy more frequently than a ship strike). Andy
  13. I have bought their cherry and walnut sheets, which were of reasonable quality. I think you are better off going with Modelers Sawmill or Ocooch Hardwoods.
  14. Any words of wisdom regarding the veracity of other woods they sell, like Cherry or walnut?
  15. Well, thank you very much! I'm not actually a native of South Carolina, being originally from the foggy far-northern regions of California, which, climate-wise, is much more akin to Scotland than it is to the humid subtropics of Greenville. Let me know if you're ever in the area and I'll take you out for some amazing barbecue!
  16. Nice neat work! One small thing, some blocks look to be upside down so the lines are running under the sheave and over the tail rather than over the sheave and under the crown. Sketch may be more clear than words. You can see that on a real block there is no room for the line to run under the sheave. For our purposes and scales these openings are usually just another hole drilled as the line covers it as it runs down but still the line should be in the upper holes. Allan
  17. Does the protection take into account the containers falling off the ship when it impacts the barriers?
  18. I have good hopes. He's probably at the age where the fumes overtake him....gasoline fumes, perfumes, etc.
  19. It’s slightly more than just the angle of elevation that classifies whether a piece is a gun/howitzer/mortar. It also has to do with the trajectory of the shell, and the ratio of propellant to shell weight. To lob a mortar shell into a high looping trajectory takes far less propellant proportionally to the weight of shell than an anti-aircraft gun, even though both are designed to fire at high angles of elevation. However, you could technically turn an anti-aircraft gun into a mortar by reducing the amount of propellant from the cartridge. Jumping to WW2 British artillery practice, the QF 25 pounder field artillery, as well as the BL 4.5” and BL 5.5” medium artillery were considered to be gun-howitzers. Because their shells were loaded separately from their propellant charge, the charge weight could be altered on the spot, by the gun crews, as required. With this flexibility of trajectory, the pieces could be fired at low or medium angles. Both field and medium crews were trained in indirect fire as well as anti-tank shooting (the latter being done over open sights, direct fire, flat trajectory), although they seldom practiced the latter in actual combat. Andy
  20. While most folks here are concentrating on the software I would first find out the capabilities of that Library laser cutter. You will want to cut wood ….depending on species that can get pretty thick. My guess is this laser cutter wont be of high enough power to cut anything more than 3/32” thick basswood. And certainly not ply unless its very thin. So check the specs before you start. you would certainly need a 60 watt laser at a minimum but that is pushing it. its far better to use 80 to 100 watt laser. Otherwise it wont cut the thicker stuff at all. Smaller machines for paper and light crafts are useless for ship model work.
  21. Heller and certainly Revell have good kits. You're going to learn a lot when you build them.
  22. Update today the deck beams were installed, and the overstanding upper frameportions cut off. I also received the steel concave shield 21,3mm diam. of the mushroom anchor, for soldering on the anchorshaft Nils the deckbeams for forecastle and the main deck are on this is a pressed and cut out steel round 21,3mm Diam.
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