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Scalpel and tool storage


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Hello,

 

I'm preparing to build my first ever model, and the first thing I've purchased is a No3 and No4 scalpel with 11 and 22 blades. I've been wondering how best to store these - and tools in general - for easy, and safe, access.

 

Does anyone have any recommendations or suggestions?

 

Thanks!

Amy

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Hello Amy

When I worked for British Aerospace in the electronics section we used scalpels all the time.  Some small electronic components came in small plastic tubes with a snap on plastic lid.  We cut a slot in the plastic lid with the scalpel and blade and just pushed the scalpel and blade into the tube for safety.  It was held in place by the plastic of the lid.  Just pull it out when you need it.  When you have worn out the blade wrap it up in masking tape before throwing it away.  You can buy plastic tubes from Maplins or RS Components.

Regards

Ken 

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An easy tool storage method =  a block of Styrofoam interior insulation, glued to a wooden base.  Just stick tools, point down into holes in the block - they are readily available and both you and the tools are protected.

The size   - 2 inches thick -  6-8 inches long and 3-4 inches wide,   Over here it is pink or blue or off brand - amber.

Home Depot sells small 1 inch thick sheets for "projects".   It does not react well to hot glue, but contact cement should do.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Fantastic idea Ken. I think I actually have some unused drill tubes and endmill holders kicking around in my workshop that I can repurpose for this!

 

 

 

An easy tool storage method =  a block of Styrofoam interior insulation, glued to a wooden base

Is there any appreciable blunting from storing scalpel blades in this way? That'd be my only concern with doing that

Edited by planktonette
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In a contest, I doubt polystyrene would offer much effect on steel, but actually, it is the handle that contacts the foam in the hole, if you are concerned, use a butter knife, or spoon handle to make the hole.

I keep pencils, Sharpe, 6 inch steel rulers, Dremel bit wrenches,  scissors ......

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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A more fun way to protect sharp tools is to go to your favorite wine store and pick up a bottle or two your favorite wines, but make sure that they have the plastic stopper, not cork........... the cork retains moisture which would tend to rust your blades.  The plastic stopper will not. 

 

After removing the plastic "cork" and prior to enjoying the contents of the bottle, pierce your blade into the stopper far enough to protect the blade of your tool.  Enjoy.

 

Jim

Edited by Uncle Si
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If the blades are loose, a strip of that magnetized rubber works well.  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Hello Amy

The point of putting the blade in the plastic tube was that you could throw it, (I know very wrong) into your tool box and go off to another section of the works.  We cut the cap with a nearly new blade not a fine blade.  For fine blades we put a bit of foam in the bottom of the tube to stop the blade hitting the sides of the tube.  We used foam blocks on the bench.  These came as packing for electronic components and were glued to the insides of the cardboard boxes.  The foam does fall apart over time, but as its free that does not matter.  The only problem was when working in a clean room,but this is ship building so no problem.

All the best Ken.

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Here is a photo of two handles I prefer over the stamped metal disposable handles.  Each cost under $10 on eBay.  The metal one is the better of the two but there is a different plastic handle that looks very similar to the red handle but costs a lot more that some prefer.  I can use the metal handled one show for hours w/o any issues but the stamped metal ones hurt my hand after just a few minutes.

Kurt

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Kurt Van Dahm

Director

NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD

www.thenrg.org

SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS

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Midwest Model Shipwrights

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The Society of Model Shipwrights

Butch O'Hare - IPMS

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