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L'Artesien 1:48, 1764 by Nightquest1000


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Hi all,

 

I am about to start the French 64 Canon ship L'Artesien. I will build this ship pararell to Le Rivoli, as I want to have the opportunity to change between Projects, when I am stuck with one, or change between the two according to what's on my mind.

 

I was thinking about how to approach these two projects. It was clear to me that I didn't want to build open frame models. I do like the look, but I am scared about the time consumption, because I love to have a perspective on when projects come to a successful end.

 

Having said that, there was still to decide which route to go. In the end I think it will be a mixture of the russian bulkhead method and my own ideas. See how it goes.

 

L'Artesien will be fully rigged with most her sails set. More or less like the model shown in the Musee de la Marine., Paris.

I will post updates and let you know how I am getting on.

 

post-7453-0-01416400-1404491344.jpg

Edited by Nightquest1000

Tom

 

current workshop content:

 

L'Artesien, scratch

Le Rivoli, scratch

 

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  • 1 month later...

Just to let you know, I have started the building process.

 

The 2 pictures give you a quick peek into my workshop and the early building state of the hull.

It is the first time that I am working with this techniqe of building two halfs, joining them after the work on the two sides has been finished.

 

My plan is to give both sides their final shape by sanding. Because I am always sandwiching two pieces of wood before sawing, the buildup of the second half will be much quicker than the first half.

Once the shaping is completed, I am planning to mark and cut the gun ports. Then determine the decklines.

The last step then is to marry the two halfs before planking and keel-joining starts.

Lets see how it goes.

 

 

 

post-7453-0-28848700-1407327320_thumb.jpg

post-7453-0-94343600-1407327322_thumb.jpg

Tom

 

current workshop content:

 

L'Artesien, scratch

Le Rivoli, scratch

 

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Hi,

 

tracing, cutting, tracing cutting... it gets a bit tedious after a while. I am making progress with the frames, but decided to entertein myself with something more interesting for a while.

 

I've build one of the galleys. I made the base shape from a piece of scrap wood, sanded for a good smoothness. Then this block has been covered with self-adhessive copper foil. The same stuff you use for coppering a hull.

The fittings are made from brass and I carved the stand from basswood.

 

Tom

post-7453-0-34427300-1407914491_thumb.jpg

Tom

 

current workshop content:

 

L'Artesien, scratch

Le Rivoli, scratch

 

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Hi all,

 

more frame cutting. I am sandwiching two pieces of wood using toothpicks. This way i am cutting the starboard and port sides of the frame in one go.

The two pieces are dowelled together, the pick protrusions cut and then it's the jigsaws turn.

 

post-7453-0-84212800-1408367189_thumb.jpg

post-7453-0-16413900-1408367191_thumb.jpg

Tom

 

current workshop content:

 

L'Artesien, scratch

Le Rivoli, scratch

 

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ok, done!

 

I have cut all the fames. The next steps are sanding inside and outside. Then mark and cut the gunports. After that, the starboard and port halfs are joined together.

After that I will build the framing for the Stern.

 

Tom

 

post-7453-0-72847700-1408367390_thumb.jpg

Tom

 

current workshop content:

 

L'Artesien, scratch

Le Rivoli, scratch

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have not seen this method of building, it looks interesting.

 

Bob

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  SS_ Mariefred

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II,   Two Edwardian Launches 

 

In the Gallery:   Catboat,   International-Dragon-Class,   Spray

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Hi Bob,

 

Yes, it is new for me as well. I saw it on an australian shipmodelling DVD. This film has been shot in Russia, in the workshop of one of the most famous russian ship modellers, called Dr. Mike.

Don't think it's his real name. He is a heart surgeon and a real ship modelling buff.

This method is interesting and seems to be straight forward.

I have finished the thwo halfs. Pictures will come in the next days.

I am not yet convinced it is the best way of building a hull, because the disadvantage is, you produce a hell of a lot of waist wood, that you can't really use otherwise. Not even for the barbeque, because these boards you buy in the DIY are made from strips and contain a lot of glue. Sure not the healthiest things to burn.

 

best regards

Tom

Tom

 

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L'Artesien, scratch

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Fabulous to see the first build on here to use Dr Mike's hull construction technique. B) After watching the DVD,I did wonder whether Dr Mike had these boards made for him or laminated them himself.Standard furniture boards are full of knots,the boards he used were completely knot free.I think it would be advisable to apply knotting solution to these to prevent them shrinking.I think the the main advantages for this technique,especially as he sells his models,is that it is both fast and accurate.The saving in man hours greatly outweighs the wasted material.He also builds two identical models in tandem to offset additional draughting time.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

Currently working on Royal Caroline

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Hi Tom this is an interesting take on the "bread and butter" method of hull building. looks like a great start. working on the two halves this way would make the fairing a little easier I would suspect. almost a cross between a solid hull and a bulkhead hull, if planking is not going to be highlighted and just painted and coppered I can see how this would speed up the building of the hull. 

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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@ Nigel

I guess he is using some sort of russian fir tree. It has a distinct flamed grain with virtually no knots. The scandinavian furniture building boards, that you can buy in european DIYs can have a lot of knots.

I tried to avoid them where possible. Not always achievable, but because they are glued with wood glue and planked both inside and outside, I guess it's not much of a problem. What I definately did not incorporate are areas with resin inclusions.

 

@Michael

yes, it makes working on the hull very convenient. But, there will be the point where the halves come together and from there on it is business as usual.

Although, marking and cutting gunports for instance is very easy to achive when you only need to handle half the body.

Fairing is, well-, sort of easy. I am using flexi curves to control the lines. Pretty straight forward, but I wouldn't be surprised if, when the hull is joined together, your eyes tell you otherweise, and you have to do some corrections here and there. I'll include my experience on that in the building log.

 

@Brian

MDF, hmm.. I wouldn't. My fear would be that the comparably thin walls (5mm) wouldnt be strong enough to withstand the forces of the planking procedure. It has no long grain like natural wood,

 

best regards

Tom

Edited by Nightquest1000

Tom

 

current workshop content:

 

L'Artesien, scratch

Le Rivoli, scratch

 

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Hi,

 

the gunports have been marked and are ready to be cut. The inner lines are the actual gunport openings. The outer lines are the lines to be cut. After cutting they will be fitted with an inner Frame with a cheap wood for perfect alignment. During planking they will receive their final Frames. This then reduces the openings to their correct size.

post-7453-0-82128300-1411978124_thumb.jpg

Tom

 

current workshop content:

 

L'Artesien, scratch

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Hi there,

 

a quick note on cutting instruments.

I am using a dive-in sawblade, mounted on Proxxon's oszillating micro-sander. This is a convenient way of doing it. You don't need to drill 4 holes and then saw by hand.

Just dive in the blade into the material. Works very well, although every 20 gunports you have to use a file to reshape the teeth of the blade. They grind down fairly quicky. I guess after about 70-80 openings you can bin the blade.

 

Tom

 

 

post-7453-0-45949500-1411978531_thumb.jpg

Tom

 

current workshop content:

 

L'Artesien, scratch

Le Rivoli, scratch

 

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Looking good Tom B) How did you find the match up of the two halves after gluing up?There are a lot of joints stacked together,I just wondered whether they may distort slightly due to the glue shrinkage.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

Currently working on Royal Caroline

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Hi Nigel,

 

good question. What I did is, I marked the position of each frame on the building board, after the glue has set when I was building the first half.

I also transfered the position of every fourth frame from the plans to the building board. This way I was in good control, constantly checking against the plans and when buidling the second half checking against the marks of the first half.

Turned out, they both where the exact same length.

At some point I will start the hull for "Rivoli". I'm curious to see if I can replicate the results, or if it was beginners luck ;)

 

Tom

 

 

Tom

 

current workshop content:

 

L'Artesien, scratch

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Tom,

 

interesting build method, and a very nice result with the two hull halves

well done !

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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Hi all,

 

just a quick update. I've finished the gunport openings. In the picture the two halfs are put together loosely. The are not yet joined. She looks a bit sad at the moment. Can't wait to get the inner gunport frames done and the final fairing.

 

best regards

Tom

post-7453-0-61261400-1412585444_thumb.jpg

Tom

 

current workshop content:

 

L'Artesien, scratch

Le Rivoli, scratch

 

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Looks good Tom, I have seen those oscillating saws by Dremel in a local store, I have never thought about using one, but am curious about how they are to use.

How accurate are you able to make the cuts, and is there much tear out on the back side when the blade comes through the wood?

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Michael,

 

well, I was impressed. You have to get the hang of it, then you are able to maintain a good straight line. At last, over the short distances of a gunport-width. Minimal tear on the under/backside.

I wouldn't use it for longer cuttings though, as the narrow blade will definately not cope well with a long straight line, and, as mentioned before, the blades grind down fairly quickly. Re-sharpening is ample.

 

Tom

Tom

 

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Looking good Tom B) I assume you are following Dr Mike's lead with lining the ports.The only downside is you end up doing the job twice.I can understand this on Rivoli though as he ran the black stripes (ebony?) around the port linings.Do you propose to use thin Veneer planks as he does,or go for something a little thicker?

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

Currently working on Royal Caroline

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Hi Nigel,

 

you are a very good observer :) And yes, you are of course right. You end up doing the work twice.

But, there is a big but, with an inner frame, that you can fair off inside and outside, you have a perfect base to work from.

My approach is a bit different, as I am using 2mm for both, the inner lining and the final framing in walnut.

This provides a bit of "flesh" for a nice overlap of the planking.

 

cheers

Tom

Tom

 

current workshop content:

 

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dear all,

 

we do need a bit of a change every now and then, don't we?

I started on the second galley, which is sort of a double-sided open fire cooking site. No idea what the proper nautical or english term is.

I am using air-drying modelling clay for the brick work.

 

Tom

 

post-7453-0-30094000-1412669341_thumb.jpg

Tom

 

current workshop content:

 

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Tom

 

I've seen them referred to as "kitchens" and "fireplaces" but these could just be bad translations from the French.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Hi all,

 

the Brick-work now darkened and aged.

I use water-soluable powder colours for this kind of work. In this case I used dark red, brown and black.

Apply a very thin wash of red and brown, repeatedly until you are satisfied with the appearance. Don't make it too even.

Then let it dry and apply some dark aereas with a mix of black and browm. Just the colour, no water. You probably heard of the dry-paint-method. You need a stiff brush to apply the colour. Again, randomly in various places and try to blend out.

 

Tom

post-7453-0-79619200-1412758775_thumb.jpg

Tom

 

current workshop content:

 

L'Artesien, scratch

Le Rivoli, scratch

 

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Hi all !

 

The galley hearth is completed. It was a joy to build. The brick construction was encased in wooden walls, which were reinforced with St. Andrew crosses. It sits under the forecastle together with the swinging galley kitchen.

Bit of a shame, you see the side walls, when looking from the maindeck under the forecastle. Maybe it is possible to see a bit inside the hearth when you look at a slightly diagonal angle. Or through a gunport. Remains to be seen.

post-7453-0-78474200-1413360185_thumb.jpg

Tom

 

current workshop content:

 

L'Artesien, scratch

Le Rivoli, scratch

 

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