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| Simple Hull Planking
Techniques for Beginners |
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7. Fairing the Hull
Figure 5a:
This drawing shows the smooth transition from the bulkheads
to bearding line. This transition needs to be smooth, free
flowing and without severe curves. If the latter occurs a
depression or bump will appear in the planked hull. Again
something like this is most difficult to correct at a later
date. So again take your time and look at this step
carefully and from all directions. Run your fingers over the
transition surface or lay a temporary batten along the
bulkheads to check the alignment. It is important.

Figures 6 & 7:
This is the method used to actually fair the hull and to
check the lie of the hull planks along the hulls bulkheads.
Take a temporary batten, something in the order of say 5mm x
1.5mm. This temporary batten must be without weak areas and
knots as this will affect the natural flow of the timber
being used and will certainly give you a false or incorrect
reading. Pin the batten at every bulkhead station. Pre
drilling may be necessary to prevent splitting the bulkheads
and batten. Any type of temporary fixing (planking screws
are invaluable) can be used as long as the batten is held in
constant contact with the bulkhead, if allowed to bulge away
a false reading will result and the hull planking will be
incorrect and almost impossible to correct later. Move the
batten up and down the bulkheads as many times as possible,
the more accuracy you obtain in this operation the better
and smoother the finished hull is going to be.
Note: Planking screws can be obtained from many hobby stores
and the authors fully recommend their usage.
Take the time to look along the batten from stem to stern,
look for its even smooth flow with no lumps, bumps or loss
of contact with the bulkhead, this is important.

If an error is present such as a high spot move the batten up
and down to determine the amount of error involved. Sand or
remove the bulge to correct the problem. If there is a low spot
a wooden slither or wedge can be added, just don’t forget to
glue the correction piece into place, no sense in allowing the
piece to fall out later resulting in springy planks when trying
to sand the hull down.

Important:
Really take your time with this “fairing” operation it is
probably one of the most important procedures that will
dictate the appearance of the finished model so it is well
worth taking extra time to get it right. Look along the hull
again and again looking at the clean flow of the hull, run
your hands along the temporary batten/s. See how the batten
looks at the bow and stern, is it smooth and graceful and
flowing evenly. Look to see that it is and can make smooth
contact with the stem piece rabbet without being unduly
forced into place, make sure the transition is in the same
plane and not twisted out of shape. With the stern, there
are many different ways that planks join in this area. Some
come to an abrupt halt on the edge of a square transom
others curve up dramatically to form a very graceful flow to
the counter. In all cases take a good hard long look to make
sure everything is in order and flows smoothly. I can’t
emphasise enough this step in the build, it is just so
important.
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