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Simple Hull Planking Techniques for Beginners


7. Fairing the Hull

Figure 5a:

This drawing shows the smooth transition from the bulkheads to bearding line. This transition needs to be smooth, free flowing and without severe curves. If the latter occurs a depression or bump will appear in the planked hull. Again something like this is most difficult to correct at a later date. So again take your time and look at this step carefully and from all directions. Run your fingers over the transition surface or lay a temporary batten along the bulkheads to check the alignment. It is important.

Figures 6 & 7:

This is the method used to actually fair the hull and to check the lie of the hull planks along the hulls bulkheads. Take a temporary batten, something in the order of say 5mm x 1.5mm. This temporary batten must be without weak areas and knots as this will affect the natural flow of the timber being used and will certainly give you a false or incorrect reading. Pin the batten at every bulkhead station. Pre drilling may be necessary to prevent splitting the bulkheads and batten. Any type of temporary fixing (planking screws are invaluable) can be used as long as the batten is held in constant contact with the bulkhead, if allowed to bulge away a false reading will result and the hull planking will be incorrect and almost impossible to correct later. Move the batten up and down the bulkheads as many times as possible, the more accuracy you obtain in this operation the better and smoother the finished hull is going to be.

Note: Planking screws can be obtained from many hobby stores and the authors fully recommend their usage.  

Take the time to look along the batten from stem to stern, look for its even smooth flow with no lumps, bumps or loss of contact with the bulkhead, this is important.

If an error is present such as a high spot move the batten up and down to determine the amount of error involved. Sand or remove the bulge to correct the problem. If there is a low spot a wooden slither or wedge can be added, just don’t forget to glue the correction piece into place, no sense in allowing the piece to fall out later resulting in springy planks when trying to sand the hull down.

 

Important:

Really take your time with this “fairing” operation it is probably one of the most important procedures that will dictate the appearance of the finished model so it is well worth taking extra time to get it right. Look along the hull again and again looking at the clean flow of the hull, run your hands along the temporary batten/s. See how the batten looks at the bow and stern, is it smooth and graceful and flowing evenly. Look to see that it is and can make smooth contact with the stem piece rabbet without being unduly forced into place, make sure the transition is in the same plane and not twisted out of shape. With the stern, there are many different ways that planks join in this area. Some come to an abrupt halt on the edge of a square transom others curve up dramatically to form a very graceful flow to the counter. In all cases take a good hard long look to make sure everything is in order and flows smoothly. I can’t emphasise enough this step in the build, it is just so important.

 

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