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Simple Hull Planking Techniques for Beginners

22. Spiling Operation

Figure 27:

This would no doubt be one of the most interesting operations that can be performed in the planking operation. Spiling is used to obtain a correctly shaped odd plank where other than bending a plank laterally, the plank runs or curves away from the previous laid planks. A plank regardless of the hull shape should be allowed to lay in its natural position. Look at figure 27 and imagine the paper card is a plank and it’s not going to lay in the manner we want it to lay. That is a gap at the bow is evident between this plank and the previous one. Forcing it and bending it laterally is going to result in the clinker plank look. We don’t want that as most hulls are carvel built, that is smooth with all planks butting edges against each other and not overlapped.

In the sketch the gap has to be overcome. By using a scrap of paper card, the cardboard back-cover of a writing pad is excellent for this operation. Cut a strip of card wide enough to allow suitable marking of the card to get the right shape of the spiled plank. More is better than too little in this case.

Figure 28, 29:

Temporarily pin the cardboard strip over the bulkheads with one edge securely fitted against the previous laid plank. Again do not force the card to fit the shape let it lay naturally as shown in figure 27.

Taking a compass with some means of locking the legs in position run the metal pointed leg against the lower edge of the previous laid plank as in the sketch. If you find the card sags just make a mark directly over the top of the bulkhead itself.

This will form a series of dots or short marks that will be joined later to give the cutting line. Take the opportunity to mark the stem rabbet shape at this time to the card.

When this operation is complete remove the card from the hull and lay it over the piece of selected timber. Due to the shape of the spiled plank a wider plank than the normal planking timber is going to be required. This wider material of course needs to be the same thickness as the other planks being used. This rule applies to first as well as second layers of planking. Lay the card paper over the top of the wood, pin it into position to prevent it moving as you cut the shape. If you have used the dot method described above take a plastic ruler and possibly with a willing helper use the ruler on edge to join the dots using at least three dots at a time. Bending the ruler to suit this will form a graceful curve similar to the bending of a plank. Next mark the width of the plank using the spiled line as a guide. This plank should theoretically be the same width as the normal planks of the model. OK cut the outlined shape allowing a slight margin for sanding and snug fitting. You should wind up with something looking like the lower sketch in figure 28.

Discard the piece of card marked as scrap in the sketch. However retain the lower section as this shaped piece may be the next spiled plank required. A lot depends on the shape of the hull; it may be useful maybe not.

Take you newly made plank and trail fit it to the hull, some sanding will probably be required to obtain a snug fit so take your time to get it right as you will be very aware of this plank as you made it. Pin to the hull look along its length if there are no gaps and all appears well glue it into position as in figure 29. Good job eh?

NOTE: If you are going with the single layer of planking some bevelling to the top edge may be needed. Again bevel only the one edge. See separate heading regarding bevelling procedure.

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