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Registered Users: brianbrown43, dvm27, Janos, jmackinlay, Kuma, Kusawa2000, MikeR, Padreh, Paul Williams, Vermin
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bernie
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Commodore


Joined: 21 Jul 2009 Posts: 1685 Location: Geelong Country: australia
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Thanks for all of your suggestions and feedback! Once again, the MSW team swings into action!!
It's hard to make objective decisions sometimes about something you're working on.
Garward is correct about the perceived flatness of the hinges, but Jan is correct in pointing out that contemporary hinges (albeit of another country's ship) aren't really very thick.
The paper I used is about 0.1mm thick and this is a 1/90 scale model, making them 9mm thick scale hinges... which must be in the ballpark. However, as most of you pointed out, pretty much nothing on this model is in scale, and most of us (especially at this scale) will choose appearance and practicality over accuracy.
Thanks for the pic of the Susan Constant, Jan. I think it's given me a clue as to the most significant problems with my hinges.
That pic of the Batavia is brilliant, BTW. What a lovely replica, and as far as contemporary goes, I think the Batavia is close to the San Francisco. As far as anyone can work out, the SF is meant to be a mid to early 17th century ship.
Fritz, adding a small piece of brass wire to simulate the actual hinge pivot is a good idea. Bending the brass around in a roll was just too difficult and not easily reproducable. Also, Caroline: Brilliant suggestion re: a ringbolt. I will try to make something to simulate this. I think the flatness and lack of detail of the hinges made the whole area of the portlids rather dull and lifeless.
Just noticed that Sawdust has commented too. Great suggestion. When stuck, it makes sense to think "outside the box", so an alternate like this is very useful.
I think I'll try to combine the various wisdoms offered.
Looking at Jan's pic of the Susan Constant, I realise that the clumsy parallel-sided strips of black paper are just not good enough. They need some shape.
Second, I think that Garward's original comment about flatness was about the pivoting part of the hinge, so I will try to use Fritz's suggestion of glueing a piece of brass wire there. I'll paint the hinges rather than use blackening.
I guess this means that I'll have to solve my problems with PE first...
Thanks again everyone for coming to my rescue.
cheers, Bernie
_________________ Building: James Caird: Shackleton's whaleboat
Sleeping: AL San Francisco , AL Endeavour
Researching: 60-miler colliers of the NSW Mid East-Coast
Next: Triton section? |
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danvad
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Commodore


Joined: 29 Aug 2008 Posts: 1796 Location: Abermain (near Newcastle) NSW Country: australia
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Hi Bernie,
How small did you say your hinges had to be ?
I knocked this one up in about 2 minutes - it's 0.58mm x 0.35mm brass strip, end is rolled to take a 0.5mm pin. It's 5mm long.
I would have preferred 1mm wide, but my shop was out of stock.
The "piece-de-resistance" - two 0.3mm holes drilled into it for nails made of the same size copper wire
Yeah - I'm just trying to be smart ..... but it IS possible.
The tools I used to bend the loop (and try to HOLD the bloody thing - it is TINY) are in the last pic - $30 from Dick Smith for the whole set, and seem like really good quality.
BTW, if you still want to go the "paper" way - have you tried Glossy "Photo Quality" Photocopy paper? Pretty easy to cut without shredding or tearing, as long as you use a SHARP blade.
, Danny
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_________________ Any comments on my build log are welcome, don't worry about being gentle
"Above all else - ENJOY the hobby! The rest comes easy ...... eventually"
Current Build : AL "HMS Supply" - HEAVILY Bashed - Includes INDEX page
Previous Builds - "Charles W. Morgan" (AL), "Norske Lowe" (Billings), "Mississippi" River Boat (AL), "Mirage" (Corel), HMS Victory (Corel)
"HMS Bounty" (AL)
2 x Revell "Cutty Sark"s.
Next Build : Modeller's Shipyard's "Sloop Norfolk" |
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