Making rigging blocks

Last edited by Russ on Wed Mar 28, 2007 5:14 am; edited 1 time in total

Hello everyone:
For those interested in making their own rigging blocks, here is a method I have used with very good results. For the purposes of this demonstration, I am making a single sheaved block out of boxwood. The block's length is about 1/8".

Here are the tools and materials I used. The files are jeweler's files from Micromark. They are 4" long overall.

Here is the block with the sheave holes drilled with a .020" bit and the bottom scored off with the corner of a square needle file.

Next is recessing the the area between the holes to form the sheave. This was done with the square file, using the point of it to carve the recessed area.

The fore and after faces of the block are shaped now, using the flat file for the upper end and the square file for the bottom of the block.

Now the sides of the block are shaped to form a more curved surface. 18th century blocks were quite rounded which is something that is often overlooked.

Here is the block after it has been parted from the stick with a razor saw. The strop recesses along the sides, top, and bottom are cut with the corner of the square file while the block is still on the stick. After the block is parted off, the bottom is cleaned up and the strop recess is cut.

Well that's the short course. Any questions, please let me know.

Russ

Posted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 12:50 am • Post subject:

Russ,

Very nicely done step-by-step. The zoomed views are deceiving - when you see the block next to the scale one realizes how small that nice block really is. Thanks.

Best Regards,

Posted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 12:55 am • Post subject:

Elia:
Thanks.

I did not realize, until after the fact, that the intermediate steps had no scale, so I made sure to include the ruler in the last two images.

Russ

Posted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 2:13 am • Post subject:

Russ

If you get into a groove after the third or fourth block, how many do you think you can make in say an hour? The block looks great and I bet if you do them a little at a time you can build up quite a stash.

Chuck

Posted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 2:32 am • Post subject:

Chuck:
Thanks. This block took a couple of minutes to make, if you cut out the time I took to scan the piece to get the manufacturing recorded.

I made the blocks I used on my pilot boat model with this method in just a few sittings. All told maybe an hour's time. That was 18-20 blocks as I recall, mostly singles but a few doubles. The largest of those blocks was about 3/32" long and the smallest was about 3/64" for the flag. Most were in the 1/16" to 5/64" range.

One of the keys to getting into a groove would be prep time. If you have stock ready to go, tools at hand, and a small piece of card nearby with all the calculations for the different sized blocks, number of sheaves, etc then that cuts the manufacturing time down quite a bit. Once you have all that lined up, the block making can go rather quickly. I bet if I needed them, once I go into the groove I could turn out 15-20 in an hour. A double sheaved block might take a little longer, but not much. Prep time and some practice is important.

However, I would never rush like that. This is something you can do in the intervals while glue is drying, paint is drying etc. I also will make blocks if I get stumped on some other aspect. While I am pondering how to do something, I can make a few blocks. By making them a handful at a time, you can accumulate quite a stock of them before you know it. Then again, maybe I get to a point where I just a change of pace. Not waiting on anything to dry, no problems to be solved, but I just need to refocus on something other than the hull in front of me.

Russ

Posted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 2:40 am • Post subject:

I agree that it isnt as time consuming as people might think. Blocks are extremely important to the overall look of any model. If you consider how long it takes to treenail a hull and deck, it probably wouldnt take you any longer to make your own blocks. I think there is a misconception out there that it is difficult or takes for ever to do. I will agree that it is tedious work but then again so is treenailing. They are equally as important though. Your pictures demonstrate the process well. If you modify those square kit supplied blocks it takesjust as long. I did so for the Sultana and probably would have been better off making my own.

Thanks

Posted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 3:15 am • Post subject:

Chuck:
I agree. However, I think block making is easier than treenailing. Maybe that's just me. Smile

I have used those kit type blocks from ME, and I have used Lloyd Warner's blocks. Lloyd's are great blocks, but I can do as well with far less expense. The kit blocks can be modified, but they will never look as good as those you make yourself. Also, some specialty blocks like fiddle blocks, you must scratch build because they are not offered much on the market.

Russ

Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2006 4:16 pm • Post subject:

Those are nice blocks. One thing I like doing after making the blocks is to put them in a rock/gem polisher for a few hours. I lined the drum with 100 grit sandpaper, and also drop in a wooden dowel, about 3/4 the length of the drum and also lined with 100 grit paper. This smooths out the edges and really polishes them up. I bought one at a crafts store for about 20 bucks. Also I will add just a little bit of the coarse polishing granules, this should come with the polisher, to give a little bit of a weathered appearance. But just a little bit, too much and the blocks get too weathered!

Posted: Sun Dec 10, 2006 5:50 pm • Post subject:

Ron:
I have seen that done with kit blocks to smooth them out, but never with scratch built blocks. I guess its because the people I have seen scratch build their blocks do all the smoothing before the block is off the stick.

Russ

Posted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:26 am • Post subject:

G'Day Russ,

Nice work as usual, and its always very rewarding making you own parts rather than put up with the bought rubbish.

Dirk