Pin holes be gone!

Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 12:31 am • Post subject: Pin holes be gone!

Awhile back when I built a dory, very thin planks were laid over a plug and held with pins while the glue set. "Dynamite" Payson, the guy who wrote the book I followed, suggested removing the pin holes by "rubbing them with a wet stick." It worked.

Russ asked "Really?" Yes, really. Now I'm working on a hull form where I am using ribbands that are much thicker than those thin planks. Once again, pins are the best clamps for the job. So, I wondered if the trick would work on these thicker pieces too. Sure does.

Use the wet stick to drop some water on the holes. Visit several at a time this way. A few seconds later, go back and rub the stick over the holes for 20 seconds or so. Done!

[OK. What's that he's building? More on that later.]

Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 12:35 am • Post subject:

Bob hi,

This is magic!

Thanks for the tip.

Vasilis

Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 8:15 am • Post subject:

Ive used map pins which have got heads on them 5mmwide. Push them into the bulkhead to hold the planks in place.
Regards Ken Melbourne

Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 12:28 pm • Post subject:

Hi Bob.This is realy a nice tip. Wink

Does this tip work in general? Think

I mean Isn't it depending maybe on the kind of wood, the thickness of the plank, the glue, or even the time that the pin had been on plank before remove.
Thanks

Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 7:56 pm • Post subject:

I don't know about all the variables Thanasis. So far, it has worked with basswood and aspen at several thicknesses. Some of the pins were there for over a week, some for a few hours.

All that is happening is water makes wood swell. The rubbing just blends the surface fibers together after they begin to swell. It should work with most types of wood to some extent.

Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 8:42 pm • Post subject:

An excellent tip, Bob. The same principle can be used to easily remove dents from wood (an old furniture restorer's trick). For example, ever forgotten to put a bit of scrap under a clamp to prevent marking a surface? Soak out those dents!

Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 9:03 pm • Post subject:

Thanks for the answers Bob.Its realy a good tip.Thanks for sharing it.
Friendly

Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 11:14 am • Post subject:

Brilliant tip! I've just tried it, it really works. This was 1.5mm thick lime.

Very Happy

Cheers,
Yvette

Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 12:23 pm • Post subject:

Back in my younger days, (pre-wife) I drank copious amounts of beverages and visited many billiard halls, I had a very nice pool cue. One nite it developed a nasty dent near the tip (right where your fingers run). I took this to a man who makes these, he carefully cleaned the area then wrapped it in a cloth towel that was wet , used a small half-round heating iron and rubbed this on and around the spot for about 10 mins while we talked. It completely pulled the dent out, he used some type of hot-air dryer (like a heat gun, but it was a round tube with no handle), then rubbed the area with 400 grit. It was perfect, charged me 40 dollars and sent me on my way (alot cheaper then a new piece).

I never thought about this for ship modeling, but it worked on maple! maybe a little heat to steam the dent out was the secret to this, as it was a big dent. (im thinking plank bender).

Great tip, and thanks for the reminder of "the good old days".

Lee