Glazing Cabin Windows

Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 2:59 pm • Post subject: Glazing Cabin Windows

After some experimenting and a few failures I think I have finally cracked the process using crystal resin.

I start by spray painting the frames, this is not only for decoration but to seal the laser burn area around the glazing and stop it giving the glazing a brown hue. You could of course then sand off the front of the frames if you wanted to see wood.

I then pinned the frames down over a sheet of release tape ( I used Sellotape). As the glazing resin is very liquid, to stop it running out I put a drop of Golden self levelling gel in each opening. This forms a lining and seals each cell. After allowing 12 hours to cure I then filled each cell with a drop of "Solid Water" crystal clear resin . A touch of the finger on the top of each frame levels up the resin and removes any excess.
Put the windows somewhere dust free to cure and bingo !.

The Solid Water clear resin can be obtained from http://www.guidelinepublications.co.uk/acatalog/deluxe_materials.html

The Golden Gel is an artists glaze and this or something equal is available at art shops

Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 4:38 pm • Post subject:

WOW!

That really looks good! Thanks for the detailed explanation on your work. I have one question, if I were to make a mess of one single pane-do you think there is a way to fix this without starting all over, or is this a one shot type deal?

I like the look you have achieved far better then other methods I have seen, very nice.

Lee

Commodore Joined: 20 Dec 2006 Posts: 1930 Country: uk

Nice job on the windows Adrift, looks like old glass, might give it a try myself when the opportunity arises

Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 5:42 pm • Post subject:

Thanks guys.
Lee , the unit is recoverable until the resin cures. It can be cleaned up with Acetone. But once it has gone off it as solid as a brick. This is why, having gone through the learning curve I have posted the method, hopefully to avoid others getting in a mess. To be honest if you copy what I have done everything should be OK, the only thing to watch is getting the resin /hardener mix correct at 2/1. Too far out it can dry cloudy. But it has to be a lot out. In the States you have a different product available called Liquid Glass and it may be with this you do not have such difficulty. However in the UK this is not available and my search has been to find suitable products we can get hold of.

Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 8:40 pm • Post subject:

That window treatment looks very good. A great find. Another good tip for my note pad.

Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 9:39 pm • Post subject:

Hi Adrift,

This is the same idea I have been experimenting with and discussed in an earlier thread - looks like you have found the right way to do it - Congratulations mate - an excellent finish/result!

I was having problems with "hollowing" where the liquid would contract in the middle while retaining its original level at the edges of the windows (surface tension). To get around this I had to build it up in several layers.

I also made the mistake of trying to do this on the ship (Oops - major mistake) and, as you described, the liquid would seep behind the windows and spread. I will really need to find some of that gel.

A very authentic look; I will do it this way in the future also. I used a two part resin/expoxy called "Liquid Gloss" - I wonder if product type is another contribuiter to the finish? With the latter, you didn't need to touch it at all, but you did need to blow across it to remove any bubbles caused from the chemical reaction of mixing the hardner and the gloss.

Another point someone raised was what reaction the "glass" would have if you painted it with a varnish during the final sealing of all of your work. I have not tried this yet, but in future I intend to seal the window frame paintwork first (varnish over white or whatever frame colour you need before the glazing work - that way there will be no need to go anywhere near the glazing with varnish). I think they were more worried if you "spray-painted the varnish / finish - can always mask this off now as the frames are presealed.

Many thanks for this excellent tip

cheers

Pat

Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 10:12 pm • Post subject:

Hi Pat.
I tried to do it first of all just using the gel but as you said this shrunk back and formed a concave window. I tried building it up but by the time I had finished it looked rubbish so I ended up just using it to seal the cell.You can obtain the gel in Aus at http://www.parkersartsupplies.com/golden.htm you will find it half way down on the right of the page.
As I mentioned you need to paint first to stop the laser burn causing a brown tinge to the resin. I would not varnish over after as this will take away from the clarity of the window and is not necessary.
Any queries just post em up. cheers Eric.

Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 10:16 pm • Post subject:

Hi Eric, many thanks.

I will go a lookin'

Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 10:24 pm • Post subject:

Pat.
And I will remember the trick about blowing across the surface, I did get some small bubbles but I said to myself that this is 18C cast glass and it would have had bubbles anyway. Wink