HMS Victory, Shipyard, 1:96

Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 11:38 pm • Post subject: a master

this has prompted me to get after my little "Victory" i will start cutting tonight and getting the process started as i am in between things right now awaiting parts and materials. i am in awe of this build and of the master's touch. thank you so much for the inspiration and the need to better my techniques.
doc
Very Happy

Posted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 6:48 pm • Post subject:

Hi Doc,

Thank you for your nice comments but I don't think, that I'm a master Embarassed

Josef

Posted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 6:52 pm • Post subject:

After having an idea about making the gratings I wanted to try it out. First I printed it out to 0,4 mm cardboard and prepare the tools.

Took the sharp knife and cut some small slots.

Did the same with another print but the other direction and glue both to another piece of cardboard to strengthen it.

Now I cut small strips with the roll cutter crossing against the direction of the first cut.

The stripes come together and form the grating.

After gluing and drying I cut the grating to the right dimension with the roll cutter (important to use this one, because a standard knife would destroy the structure). The cut area show the groove and tongue effect.

After painting the grating looks like this. The result of two evenings (6 hours). The whole caboodle is approx. 1 Inch long.

Much time, but I think the result is worth the afford ... and I'm not on escape.
For target-performance comparison look at the real thing.

Servus
Josef

Posted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 7:46 pm • Post subject:

Hallo Josef,

your grating is looking really good, better than most of wooden made gratings I have seen..... Very Happy

and they are technically correct made, not like the wrong "construction" in all the kits available on the market

Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 8:44 am • Post subject:

Hi, Uwe,

Thank you very much for your attention.

After a closer look at the picture of the original ship, I saw that the groove and tongue effect is only at the longer slats, the shorter ones are only normal square slats. This simplification I will use for the other gratings because it reduces the work nearly for the half.

Josef

Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 12:19 pm • Post subject:

Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 6:54 pm • Post subject:

Josef
Every time I read your log I am always amazed at your skills. What an ingenious technique you have for the gratings and like Uwe said they look much better than most wooden gratings.
I am looking forward to reading more of your log, thanks for sharing it with us.

Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 9:49 pm • Post subject:

Yes indeed,a very good method,now if I can just remember.I suffer from Halfheimers which makes it difficult sometimes,to remember things. I suppose one could layout such a grid on very thin wood and build up in the same way?

Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 1:56 pm • Post subject: great

great work on the gratings... i was doing something similar (but with a lot more fiddling around required) for my 1/48 scale alert ... i will try changing over to your method for the next grating.... it should be both easier to do and produce a higher quality grating....

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 7:38 pm • Post subject:

After finishing of the gratings for the upper deck I glued them onto the deck. The printed borders were a little bit to big and I made some little frames to cover this failure.

Before working on with the decks I had to make the channels, because for the mounting of them it is also necessary to reach the backside of the side parts. But first of all I must try out the mounting of the channel chain. For this reason I made a little tool of paper card (soaked with CA glue) to try out the smallest bullseye (in original it is 6" - in model I make it 2,5 mm).
First I use a piece of 0,4 mm wire.

I bent it around the circular piece of cardboard and pressed it with a small flat pliers. One side of the wire was cut to the final dimension.

The other side of the wire was pressed also with the flat pliers against the bar.

Cut it to length of the other end and did a final forming.

The gap was tin soldered.

Two pieces of cardboard (thickness 0,4 mm) were punched with different tools (one with a diameter of 2 mm / one with a diameter of 2,5 mm). The different tools create different results (chamfer).

Another simple tool was helpful to glue both of the slices together in a concentric way.

Now I put the chain link to the dishes and glue another disc (2,5 mm) to them using CA glue to connect all together.

A third tool fixed the bullseye in a depression ...

... and on the other side of the tool there are three holes as a drilling gauge for the bullseye.

After drilling with 0,5 mm it looks like this.

Painted black and with a soft bending ...

... the bullseye with a chain link was inserted into the channel.

Next time I will show you how I made the channels and how I made a stable connection with the hull.

Josef