Deadeye rigging jig

Posted: Sun Sep 03, 2006 10:09 pm • Post subject: Deadeye rigging jig

The jig is made by using a balsawood block. The block is placed on the channel and its location marked with a pen at either end of the channel. Each shroud tackle is then pulled taut to the centre of the lower deadeye, and its 'run' marked on the balsa block to the point where it intersects the lower deadeye. Now you must mark a line which indicates the upper line of the upper deadeyes (the uppermost height). Where this upper deadeye line intersects the tackle lines, place your deadeyes (it doesn't matter about orientation at this point) immediately UNDER the deadeye line and fix it in position with a couple of brass plank nails. A simple push should be all thats required. AT ALL TIMES, keep this jig assembly clamped to the channel as I have in my pictures.

NOW the hard bit....pull each tackle line taut and around each deadeye. Using tweezers (and keeping everything tight), arrange the tackle so the wrap-round occurs (obviously at the top!) in line with the tackle line you drew earlier. Seal with a drop of CA. DON'T glue the deadeye to the tackle!! This now needs to be orientated correctly. NOW, each line should tie up with the same tension and the deadeyes be at 99% the same height.

What you don't see, and I should have explained also, is that there is a jig on both sides of the ship when the tackles are connected to the deadeyes. This is simply to ensure that the tackles are evenly tensioned, and not over tensioned causing the mast to be pulled from alignment.

This method is quite easy on a large ship, but if I had employed it on my Artesania San Francisco, it would have worked equally as well.

I don't have a problem in rigging the deadeyes once they are mounted....in fact, its a joy, its so easy. Just remember to add a sticky label to each tackle with a number to identify which is which.

Once all deadeyes are rigged and tensioned, I decided to modify the same jig and add a height to it which is equal to the length of the tail (wrap around) which would be bound to the shroud, above the deadeye. This then gives me a gauge by which to cut the tals to the same length. This also varies in length on a shroud as the rearmost tackles are angled more. I find this solves that problem.

And finally, don't throw away that jig just yet. It can be used to solve another fiddly problem.....that of binding the shroud above the deadeye. Once all deadeyes are rigged and tensioned, simply place the jig back to where it once sat, and use some brass nails to secure the upper deadeyes to the jig by pushing them through the threaded holes. You may need thin brass pins for this, but I found on my model that there was ample room to do this without damaging the deadeye rigging.
Now, the deadeyes are secure and won't move anywhere.....this means that the job of binding the shroud above the deadeye is now a LOT less fiddly.

Does that make sense? I'm fairly bad at explaining things. A teacher...I am not.

Jim

Posted: Sun Sep 03, 2006 11:11 pm • Post subject:

G'Day Jim,

What a good idea. Always a problem to keep them in alignment.

Glad to see you bak again.

Dirk

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Posted: Sun Sep 03, 2006 11:42 pm • Post subject:

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Posted: Mon Sep 04, 2006 10:36 am • Post subject:

This sounds and looks pretty fool-proof to me. I'll try is on my Essex in another month or so.

Gene Bodnar
Sidney, NY