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  2. That is the plan! Follow the MSMG on the F-Book place and you'll get updates on when we plan to launch her! In other news, I've been testing my LED flashing light circuit, and based on my test results, a standard 9V battery lasts about 4 days of continuous flashing. I tried with a NiMH battery pack, gave it a full charge, then hooked it up to a solar panel circuit and it lasted about a week - so...I'm guessing that the flashing light circuit (which was designed for Model Railroad use) makes use of a lot more power than I thought it would. Which is odd for a simple circuit with just one LED light. So. Does anyone have any suggestions for a long lasting flashing light LED circuit setup I could use? A cheap LED flasher from amazon or something that I could simply add extra batteries to? I could buy a 20 pack of 9V batteries from Costco and rig them up in parallel, letting them run for about a month and a half...but that seems...inefficient.
  3. Sorry I edited the post from bulwarks to bulkheads. I got them mixed up. What will you be using for the bulkhead frames?
  4. I want to know if it’s possible to view a profiles builds in a list. I know you can view all their posts but is there a way to see all there builds?
  5. Thanks Allan! I appreciate the explanation and the sketch which does make it much clearer. You are correct, I've installed all the blocks thus far the same way - upside down. As you say, it is a small detail, and I'm not sure if I will go back and redo them, but I will give that some thought, Regardless, I will make the change going forward.
  6. To be honest, the thickness and material of the stanchions doesn't matter, because they won't be seen under the interior planking. All I need is for them to all be a uniform width and height.
  7. Probably just regular planking. The bulkhead stanchions will be made using Don's wood (I still don't know exactly what type of wood that is, but he showed me a sample and it's perfect for both planking and framing) and I came up with an ingenious idea in the late hours of last night. When it comes time to plank, the upper half of the main wale will extend above the frames, serving as a further support for the stanchions. The stanchions will probably be 1/8 inch square, and a half inch tall. I could also use plastic card for this job, and fill in the rest of the inside area with wood of the same thickness.
  8. Today, we will design the first five frames of the Devin Collins. I began by taking measurements of the curve of the hull (as per the first shown diagram) and calculated the maximum width of each frame, then divided the totals by two. This extra width will account for the material taken from each frame during the fairing process. The transom is not listed as a frame, owing to its outward angle in relation to the false keel, as well as its width being half the width of a frame. Then, I began designing frames based on the measurements shown, as well as the total length from the deck to the bottom of the false keel. Remember, the amount of sanding that will be required on both the top and sides of the frames mean that the less-than-perfect measurements intrinsic in non-CAD designs will not end up mattering. This is also due in part to the relatively simple shape of the hull. The uprights shown on the frames are not part of the frame, but rather a placeholder for the stanchions that will support the bulwarks.
  9. this is where I ran out of Occre’s magic instant glue, I felt lost. Anyway, The deck, remember the varnish? yeah so you can’t stain wood after varnish apparently. (Yes, I am a woman with 0 experience with wood, projects, anything like this! Haha!) I tried to make an acrylic wash, that didn’t work. Tried to sand off the varnish, that didn’t remove it all. I was down to my list will to keep this project and not give up…. I used the sander on the paint but it ended up looking way too weathered. So- out came the crayola pencils. It worked, all thanks to the brilliance of a 5 yo! I feel quite a bit of guilt looking at the professionalism of the other build logs on the site, but I’m hoping gloss will make it a bit more not like pencils… oof. And here is my current progress! one layer of hull gloss done! I have some Side panel thing to do on it, but I get to start finishing it now! 😄 Thanks for reading the current progress! I started this February 28th of this year, I hope to finish it soon!
  10. What does the gap look like on the other side? Remember, the laser doesn't cut perfectly straight, so I would think that a slight adjustment on the other end would be appropriate. I'm sure that Chuck will chime in. Best Regards .... Rick
  11. I honestly do not know. How quickly did people receive the information and actually implement it?
  12. New office/workshop looks great. I have a similar setup. And the build is looking really impressive 👍🏻
  13. Today
  14. I TRIED to do research on planking! But realistically the measuring and math was wedged into NOVEL long paragraphs and I couldn’t understand what was being said… I struggled really hard with this. Nothing made sense…. Soooo I winged it. Didn’t come out too horribly actually. I was relieved that someone actually advised me to hide mistakes through painting, I still think of you whoever you were ✌️ It was Very rough at the bow. Perfect everywhere else, so I learned that’s my weakest point in modeling so far. But again, filler and sanding bailed me out…. and then I drowned it in primer. Now, sure you can’t drown your problems with paint, but if you do it right…… you sure as hell can 🤣 I just was completely happy with how it came along. I know I might’ve jumped too soon into painting, but looking at the instructions, it seemed like a good idea to get into it. From here on out I’m going to be careful with how I glue and handle things, but now you get to see my second hell. Remember that Varnish I applied? Well, the deck popped too much for what I envisioned. so let’s dive into that journey next post 🙂
  15. Welcome... I was very excited when i was able to get chapters 1 & 2 for this new project. I already have my first question. When test fitting parts of the stem assembly the instructions suggest only sanding slightly on certain edges of each piece. However when I removed the pieces with no sanding, there is a slight gap. Is it appropriate to correct the other end?
  16. That is GENIUS 😄 That looks way easier than trying to sand brass nails 🤣🤣🤣 I’ll try that out next build thank you!
  17. THIS FIX TOOK A WHOLE WEEK it was so painful not to mention, my ship got broken and I lost a lot of the planks that actually Looked decent…. but she started to look a little better!!! and even turned to looking like an actual boat 😭😂 I found some excellent wood filled…. A bit of carving to create the stake plank appearance, and she was saved! I have never used electric tools in my life, but I discovered a cordless model dremel off Amazon and put it to use. It did wonders in shaping and sanding. This the second planking layer began!
  18. Spent the last weekend building a new office desk/hobby desk. Previously I had been working on a small foldout table relegated to the corner of the living room, the cramped space had really starting to frustrate me and my office computer desk was also on its last legs. I decided to solve both problems and went to the hardware store bought an 8 foot butcher block counter top, ordered some metal desk legs online, along with some under desk cabinets. It's already so much nicer to work on the boat having some space to breath and lay my tools out. My next plan is to eventually get rid of the cheap pdf hobby organizer rack I am currently using and expand with something more permanent and with more useful organizational space. Only thing I see that needs improvement is some better lighting. Back to the Beagle. I started on the ships boat carried on the deck, these little boats are harder to put together than I was expecting and I made quite a few mistakes that I will try to improve on the other 3 boats. I have also started on the cannons, I am doing a pretty simple rigging for them since they aren't really the focus of a boat like the Beagle. Next step is to get them fastened to the deck.
  19. Another update.... The first two crossmembers, now modeled accurately... Rear Cross member.... With the frame rails... Reverse side.... And finally the rear firewall crossmember.... Accurate to what is really on the car.... Still making progress... Onwards...
  20. I agree with you both on this. The instrument panel I've had from Eduard for this and the spitfire have been worth it for sure, excellent detail that I'm sure I couldn't have achieved with decals. But looking at this kit and then looking at the PE, Airfix have added so much detail that I'm not sure it's worth it. But on some kits I'm sure it i would be. I think I'll just be selective in future And thanks for the nice comments.
  21. Amati makes a product called the "nail nailer", but you can buy pretty much the same thing at your local ACE hardware store for about 1/3 the price. Personally, I don't use the brass pins. I use push pins driven with a tack hammer into pre-drilled pilot holes.
  22. Oh I love that information! Thank you 🤣 Funny that you mention that, I absolutely am turning this into just a first ship progress- off the books. I’m even planning on remaking the flag. Haha!!!!
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