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  1. Welcome to this build log. If you're wondering what happened to the Queen Elizabeth galleon, I have postponed that build in order to do this. This will be a scratchbuild made mostly of wood, and I already have some comprehensive full-scale plans made. Remember Don, the man referenced in my Senora Fielden research log? Well, this is for him and his wife, Dina. Both are good friends of mine, and Don has seen the designs. My main goal in posting this log considerably before I plan on making sawdust is that I want to iron out some of the questions in procedure and perhaps design. This is the original prototype of the cutter build. While the arrangement of the deck will be considerably different, the hull shape and rig are functionally the same. The final length of the ship (bowsprit-spanker) will be around 3 feet, while the height is somewhere around 4 feet. The rig is subject to change. These are the plans as they are:
  2. Evening All, I received a wonderful little package today - my next ship build! 😁 I'm starting a Build Log, more in wishful thinking as the house is still a bit upside down since our loft tank decided to spring a major leak back in May, but we are getting there and hope to have the house and workshop back to rights by September(ish.) Time this evening to do a little box opening and have a look through the well packed box. Lying on top a hefty instruction Manual and eleven sheet plans - much bigger than the "Nisha" ones of my last VM kit. When I get chance I will be drooling over these items and reading the plans/instructions between wallpapering and painting (the house). Won't replicate details of the Cutter itself, all explained in detail in Chris's Prototype build log:- The contents.
  3. After being a bit sidetracked by the Corel Unicorn hull I found at a local flea market, I was still looking for a new project. I spend Tuesdays mornings at my model club, HSME ( Hereford Society of Model Engineers ) After searching in the clubs library (the clubhouse loft) I discover we have a large collection of Model Shipwright magazines and the quarterly books dating back to 1972. After much rummaging, I find some plans and articles by Bill Shoulders for the cutter "Speedy 1828". I was very impressed by Thunders build log on the old kit he found that happens to be based on these articles. So HMS Speedy 1828, looks like it will be my new project, small, simple and should make a nice model. So its over to RMG to get the original draughts that Bill used to develop his plans. Lets hope there is a high resolution version on Wiki as well Then I need to scan and scale the drawings, I think I will stick to 1:48 for this build, my Bounty's launch was very fiddly to learn on. Tim
  4. I was really suprised that I did not find a build log about the Naval Cutter Alert on MSW 2.0. I know that there exist some pictures of a model on the old MSW The first source for building a model of this small vessel are Peter Goodwins book "The Naval Cutter Alert, 1777", published by PhoenixPublications Inc. 1991 and the two original drawing of her sister Rattlesnake (1776) which you will find on the homepage of the NMM. There also exist two paintings of Joseph Marshall of the ship, which are exhibited in the Science Museum, London. I found also an Sheer and Profile drawing of Alert which was published by the NRG. The sheer and profile of the NRG and Goodwin differ from the original drawing. They show the maximum width of the ship not at frame 0. Perhaps my Engish is to bad, but I could not find any reason for this. So I decide to draw my own lines. which were based on Goodwin and the original drawing. The drawing is not finished, because I decided only to draw what I need for my build. Next step was the keel. Goodwin shows for the pass between keel and lower apron a solution which I could not find on any original cutter drawings. For the after deadwood he does not offer any possible solution I decide to follow the original drawing of Cheerful 1806 for the pass between keel and lower apron. The flat joint at the foremost keel part is shown on original drawings of this period (for example on HMS Triton). For the after deadwood I decided to use a bearing line. I am not sure if this is common for ships of this period. The next picture shows my completed keel drawing: Goodwin uses for his design the common frameing pattern of double and single frames. I am not sure that this design was used for the original ship. For the Swan class sloops only single frames were used. This you will also find on the drawing of Cheerful and other cutters. Also the wide of the frame parts are not clear. In his drawing he uses much smaller futtocks than he descibed in the text part of the book. In his "Construction and Fitting of Sailing Man of War" he gives a third solution. What now? Alert is a practice model for me to get the experience to continue my HMS Fly build. Marshall shows on his paintings an simplified frameing design, so I decided to use this. Every frame is 8'' width followed by 8'' space. For the port side I like to show the clinker planking. On my drawing the final design for the last frame and the hawse pieces is missing in the moment. The drawings for every 31frames and 21cant frames are finished. I am not sure in the moment if I will use the original practice with chocks or the simplified method of Harold Hahn for my build. It will be very nice if you have further information about the cutters of this time. I found the Marmaduke Stalkartt on Google-books, but they didn't scan the plates. Perhaps one of the MSW user can help me to confirm my decisions.
  5. HM Armed Cutter Sherbourne - 1763 1:64 Vanguard Models Part Number - VM - 16 Available from Vanguard Models for £149.00 (around €175.00) History From the publisher’s website: HM cutter was a 6-gun cutter of the Royal Navy. She served in the English Channel for her entire career, operating against smugglers. She was sold in 1784. Sherbourne was built at Woolwich Dockyard under the supervision of Master Shipwright Joseph Harris, to a design by Sir Thomas Slade, and was launched on 3 December 1763, having cost £1,581.8.9d to build and fit. Sherbourne was commissioned under Lieutenant John Cartwright, later to become a prominent parliamentary reformer, and was assigned to support the work of the Board of Customs by operating against smugglers in the English Channel. Cartwright commanded Sherborne from 7 December 1763 to 14 May 1766. His area of responsibility was the South Coast of England, including Dorsetshire and Devon. His brother George, when at loose ends, went with him in Sherborne on a cruise out of Plymouth to chase smugglers. Lieutenant Christopher Raper succeeded Cartwright in 1766 as Sherbourne’s commander for the next three years. Between 1769 and 1777 the cutter was commanded successively by Lieutenants Stephen Rains, Thomas Rayment and Thomas Gaborian, all the while remaining based in the Channel. Her final commanders were Lieutenant Arthur Twyman, from September 1777 until May 1778, and then Lieutenant Arthur Hayne until September 1779. She was then laid up. In 1783 Sherbourne participated in William Tracey’s unsuccessful attempt to raise HMS Royal George, which had sunk in Spithead in 1782. Although the dockyard rated Sherbourne as unfit for service, Tracey conducted some repairs and she was of some use. She was finally sold at Portsmouth on 1 July 1784. Tons burthen – 85 Length – 54 ft 6 in (16.6 m) Beam – 19 ft (5.8 m) Complement – 30 Armament – 6 x 3-pounder guns + 8 swivel guns The Kit Designed by Chris Watton this kit is aimed for the novice builder. This skill level is defined as follows (text from publishers website): "NOVICE: We have pitched this level at the absolute beginner, whilst still providing a good basis for more experienced modellers to make their own individual mark on the project. Kit design and techniques are all aimed to make this project as easy for you as possible, guiding you in every way to create a successful and beautiful model that you can be rightly proud of." The kit includes (text from publishers website): Laser cut and engraved parts in MDF and pear wood. Laser etched and cut lime wood deck with treenail detail 2 sheets of photo etched brass High resolution 3D-printed parts. Double planked hull in limewood for first planking and pear wood for second planking. Walnut dowel for masting. Multiple sizes of both black and natural rigging thread along with all necessary blocks and deadeyes Comprehensive, full colour instruction manual, along with NINETEEN plan sheets which include all masting and rigging drawings. The rigging drawings are designed to allow the novice to successfully complete a rigged ship. Features laser-engraved treenails on both inner and outer bulwarks. Dimensions of the finished build: Length Overall – 512mm Hull length – 284mm Height Overall – 484mm Width Overall – 202mm The Box The kit comes in a sturdy nice looking box covered with an A3 printed product label which is affixed to the lid of the box. Inside the box everything is very well protected by either plastic bags or wrapped in bubble foil. None of the parts arrived damaged, warped or bended. Instructions / Plans After opening the box you will see the instruction manual and the plans: The instruction manual is of high quality paper, fully coloured and has a spiral binding which is very practical if space on your workbench is limited. In addition you always can download the instructions from the website and have it ready on your iPad or other digital device. In the manual you have step by step instructions from the very beginning up to the rigging as well as a lot of useful informations regarding e.g. recommendations for tools, colors and glues you can use to get the best out of your kit. The instructions are supplemented by 19! A3 plans. Some examples of informations you can get from them: Overview of the laser cut parts: Detailed drawings of the model, parts and assembly: Parts needed for the shown assembly phase, clearly marked so you can identify them easy and fast: Some detailed instructions on how to assemble parts with all the measurements given: And finally the rigging instructions in such a high level of detail that rigging this model will be pure fun and excitement ... From leading the threads through the blocks ... and where to belay them ... and last but not least ... how to do the belaying ... The Parts As mentioned above, all parts are well packed and secured. From top to bottom we first have the display stand made of clear acetate protected with a thin foil; The stand has two engraved nice looking name plates ... Next there are three bundles of wood: Lime wood for the first planking, pear wood for the second planking and walnut dowels for the masts, yards and other parts like the hand pumps: The wood strips and dowels are of high quality, no scratches, bendings or fuzzy edges as the macro shots show: All the rest of the parts is precut/prefabricated. Laser Cut Sheets - Pear Wood Upper sheet: parts for the anchors, stern frames, keel and prow Lower Sheet: parts for keel and prow, rudder, stern counter and transom parts, companionway as well as some fittings ... Upper sheet: Rails, transom parts and counter, main wales and gunwales, Lower sheet: Rudder parts, channels, pin rails, timberheads, catheads, gun carriages, gratings and more fittings Upper sheet: Bulwark patterns and port lids Lower sheets: Left: Mast caps, posts for the swivel guns, pawl posts and bitts / Right: Spirketting planks, bulwark ladders and tiller arm The cuts and engravings are really impressive: Treenail details: Photo Edged Parts There are two small sheets with photo edged parts. Upper sheet: Mainly parts for the Chain plates, handpumps, eyebolts, hooks, belaying pins, stanchions, swivel guns, gun carriage center booms, anchor rings and lower boom cradle Lower sheet: horse shoe plates, fish plates, rudder straps and depth markings As well as all of the prefabricated parts the level of detail and quality of manufacturing is very very good: MDF Parts There are two MDF Laser Cut sheets mainly holding the parts for the skeleton. 2mm sheet: Building cradle, deck beams, false keel and keel/bow parts, support patterns, locking pins and the lower deck 3mm sheet: Bulkheads Plywood Parts There are three parts out of plywood. These are the left and right side bulwarks as well as the sub deck. The bulwarks have markings on it to help align them as well as to ease the process of fitting the bulwark patterns: This image shows the sub deck and the engraved lime wood deck which will be glued on top of it: Again the level of detail and the manufacturing quality is astonishing: Fittings and Materials These are provided in a little box so nothing is rolling around in the big box. All items are clearly marked and waiting for assembly in their plastic bags ... There are 3 sizes of natural coloured thread (0.1mm/0.25mm/0.5mm) and 4 sizes of black coloured threads (0.25mm/0.5mm/0.75mm/1.0mm). The threads are of good quality as well as all parts in this kit: The kit comes with wooden blocks and deadeyes in different sizes: Thimble blocks (2.5mm), Deadeyes (3.5mm), single blocks (3, 4 and 5mm) and double blocks (4mm) The 3 D printed parts are the 3 pounders, swivel guns, anchors, the chimney and the main winch drum: Finally we have the anchor hawse rope, parrel beads, brass pins and a small piece of black cardboard for the anchor stock: Conclusion It is hard to believe that you can get this kind of quality for so little money. The manufacturing quality is of the highest standard across all components of the kit. Following the instructions step by step and making use of the plans should enable everybody to achieve the goal of finishing the build of an extremely well looking ship model with a high level of detail regarding its size. As there are a lot of prefabricated parts the potential for frustration should be very low and that's what I am looking for as a beginner. Just looking at the parts and the really good instruction manual as well as the plans is so much fun that you can draw all your motivation from it alone to start and finish the model. In addition the build time will not be hundreds of hours so you can see the light at the end of the tunnel as soon as you start your build. If you are a beginner this kit will for sure get you addicted to ship modelling. For experienced modellers it must be pure fun as well and if this will be your first Vanguard Models ship kit I think it will not be your last one.
  6. A lovely package arrived from Vanguard Models arrived the other day. I have built ships boats and some of the deck furniture from Vanguard but this will be the first of Chris’s ship models that I have built and I was excited to get started. The box contains a comprehensive (70 page) photo-illustrated building manual, 11 sheets of plans and part diagrams as well as numerous sheets of mdf, pear-wood, PE brass, strip wood, dowels and stand on which to display the finished model. Andrew (AJohnson) has already posted photos of the contents of the box so I won't repeat it here. The build starts by making a cradle for the initial stages of building up the hull structure. It looks delicate but is more robust than it appeared when removed from the mdf sheet. The bulkheads drop nicely into the keel without any need for sanding. I found it easiest to begin the preliminary sanding of the bow section bulkheads with parts 15 and 16 fitted (but not glued) in place. Once bevelled parts 15 and 16 are put aside until later. Chris’s manual shows the bulkheads being bevelled using a Dremel. I’m not so brave but it doesn’t take long to sand them back by hand. The stern assembly is next up and once glued and sanded back, it required a little bit of easing to slot into the keel. The centre-line patterns are given as 14 in the book but are numbered as 23 on the parts themselves. I fitted and glued the lower deck (part 25). Belatedly, I then decided to put some strips of planking down the centre line. They probably won’t be visible when the final deck is in place but I may want to have some of the hatches open. Once the longitudinal bracing parts are slotted and glued in place the whole structure firms up nicely. I sanded and applied a couple of coats of matt varnish to the deck beams and ledges before gluing them in place. The stern frames are next to be added but first I sanded off the char from the parts that are later to be painted. Part 85 is the inner layer of the stern transom and the book advises that the design was changed to make it less delicate, however I still managed to crack it when I removed it from the sheet. Luckily it didn’t break in two so I was able to glue it and no harm done. The inner stern counter pattern is fitted next. I gave it a quick dip in water and clamped it in place and left it to take up the slight curve of the hull. Other builders of Vanguard kits have said how well they go together and HM Trial is no exception. The kit is very well thought out and goes together without any need to fiddle around sanding back bulkhead slots or worrying that everything is square and correctly fitted. The last couple of days have been a joy. David
  7. Well, it's been a long road getting here but I've laid the keel so to speak. My Great Grandfather sailed as crew to Adelaide Australia aboard Lapwing in 1850, hence the interest. I've been attempting to create drawings of her for some time https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23486-lapwing-1816-revenue-cutter/ and have reached the point where cutting wood helps me with the drawings and vice versa. So it's time for this log. I will attach a PDF of the drawings here and replace the attachment with newer versions as I go along. Lapwing Drawings V1.0.pdf Drawings, Version 1.0 incomplete but should make a hull minus the stern and counter. Please let me know of any issues. First issue, moulds 2 and 4 have the labels swapped, 2 should be 4 and 4 should be 2. Second issue, transom needs to be reworked Meanwhile: In the title I said 'PoB (mostly)', eventually there will probably be a PoF version and sometimes I will try that out in this build. I will also try a more simplified when I do something more complicated than needed for PoB. Such as the keel. I certainly overcomplicated the keel for this build, several pieces scarphed together, milled rabbet and a keelson that gets mostly cut away. There are easier ways, delete the keelson and add it to the spine (the drawings now show this) or cut the rabbet out from the keel completely and add it to the spine. Both of these methods require some bevelling on the spine. I will add drawings later. I could have sworn I took more photos of the keel construction but......... Cutting wood: Note: The 'False Keel' is now referred to as the Spine. And test fitting. End of first instalment. Thanks for visiting.
  8. In order for me to understand better the rigging practices for cutters of the 18th Century, I wrote to the National Maritime Museum asking if I could see some of the cutter models they have in storage, now that they no longer have a model display at the Museum in Greenwich. Nick Ball, the Assistant Curator of Ship Models, wrote back very quickly saying that I would be welcome to visit and could see all of the models I had requested which are now stored at the Royal Historic Dockyard in Chatham -- except for one which was stored in another location less accessible to the occasional visitor. He, together with Dave Lindridge the Store Manager, gave me a very generous amount of time to look at and photograph the models that they had taken out for inspection – during which they provided a lively discussion about their jobs and the models they were showing. In fact Nick said he was pleased to show visitors the models because it gave him more of an opportunity to review models in their vast collection. I asked Nick about permission to post my pictures and he told me it was fine as long as I made it clear the pictures were from the NMM collection. He also asked to be provided to the links of the photos as he himself (as a trained naval archaeologist) was very keen on the details and would enjoy any discussion that ensued. I will post the photos of the individual models under different messages, this post deals only with the first of the models. I just need to add that I am enormously grateful to Nick and Dave for their patience and generosity with their time for this visit, which for me was invaluable. 1763 cutter NMM ID SLR0510 First off is their cutter referenced in the NMM as Object ID SLR0510. It is described there as “a full hull model of a cutter (circa 1763) Scale: 1:48. The vessel measures 53 feet on the main deck by 20 feet in the beam and is armed with twelve 3-pounders. The model was donated unfinished and was completed in the Museum in 1960”. For me there were four main points of interest, apart from the fact that it is dated the same year as my Sherbourne. The first is that the fore belaying pins are arranged fore-aft beside the bowsprit. Gregor, Dirk, Kester and I have been trying to figure out how the belaying pins would be set given that the kit of the Sherbourne provides no plans for such a belaying rack. Each of us have provided our own particular possibility – with Dirk going for an arrangement such as that on the AOTS book of the Alert, and Gregor going for a rack right on the stem. I had made a rack that was parallel to the windlass. However, now I have seen the arrangement on the NMM cutter SLR0510, and, as you will see, the 12-gun cutter I saw had the same arrangement, I have changed my own rack accordingly. The second is that the topmast is fore of the main mast. I had understood that earlier in the century the practice was to place the topmast aft of the main mast. In fact the cutter Hawke (which I also saw at Chatham and whose pictures follow in a subsequent post) was the only one of these models to place the topmast aft of the main mast. The third point of interest was the windlass. The original NMM plans for the Sherbourne showed this type of windlass, and Gregor has already made one in the same style, and I followed his example – rather than following the type of windlass provided for in the Sherbourne kit. The fourth point of interest is that, like the Trial that you'll see in a subsequent post, the lower hull is painted up to the wales, and not to a waterline. The following were the other pictures I took of the1763 cutter, all of which will have details which will be picked up by those more knowledgeable than I am! Tony
  9. 1:64 HM Britannic Majesty's Cutter Trial 1790 - Vanguard Models This is the latest kit from Vanguard Models. I don't feel I can review this as I would with any other product, per se, as I already have a well known connection to the company. I don't want to be accused of having an agenda or bias. This will be an overview/in-box look at this release which is VM's 14th kit since the company began. It's also, for me, the first release in around 3½yrs that I haven't had any involvement with. The aim of this kit is to bring a relatively low cost naval vessel to market which is at a level where novices can try their hand. It's set at a skill level 2. We do go to great pains to make sure that these levels reflect the build as much as possible, and that they are benchmarks that can be trusted when you shop at VM. For more info on these skill levels, check out this page: https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/understanding-our-skill-levels-ratings/ The box for this kit is quite compact and there's very little room left inside it, so I had to be careful in repacking this afterwards. A lining of bubblewrap lied within the box and inside that, all timber and acrylic parts are also wrapped in the same. There's no chance of stuff getting bashed about during transit. As with the rest of the range, the model is built around a laser-grade MDF skeleton and then lime planking is set for the first layer. Above water, the inner core bulwarks are from laser engraved and cut ply, which is then later doubled with an exterior pear later, complementing the second layer of plank that are also from pear. Although I have included some images from the manual, you will be able to look at the entire manual online on the kit's product page too, for more clarity. You can see from those images that the MDF frame is another slot and lock affair, which is designed so the modeller may actually do a reasonable amount of construction before any glue is applied. This will ensure that the model is properly assembled and aligned to the modeller's satisfaction, before any of the more traditional work is undertaken. There are seven sheets of pear, in varying thicknesses. Nigh on everything is pre-cut for the modeller, such as the inner and outer bulwarks (no planking needed), wales, gunwales, keel facings, rudder, etc. The keel facings fit the central keel core before second planking. This allows a rebate to be naturally created, that then lets the modeller neatly plank within and up to it for the second pear layer. You will also see the gun carriages, stairways, and various deck structures on these sheets. I am perhaps at a point where I automatically recognise everything that's visible here. The details supplied are, in my experience, higher than those in contemporary kits, with parts that aren't generic, but created specifically for the release. The quality of the pear is also high. Great pains have been made with this over the last years, believe me! Here you can see the ply sheet which contains the initial deck. Also seen are the inner bulwark cores. These are engraved so the lowest, horizontal engraved lines sit along the lines of the ply deck. This ensures that the bulwark elevation and position are correct. On the ply sheet is also the innermost lower counter part. As standard, laser-engraved lime decks are supplied, complete with treenail details. These are very easy to fit and have no tendency to curl when installing. Three bundles of timber are supplied for inner and outer planking, plus materials for the mast, yards and bowsprit etc. This kit contains two frets of photo-etch parts in two thicknesses of material. You will see easily identifiable parts in these sheets, such as the depth markings, fishtail/horseshoe keel parts, eyelets, pump handles belaying pins, and chainplates. The latter are made from single pieces so there's no awkward assembly to be had. The kit supplies an MDF cradle for construction, but the display stand itself is made from a lower section of mirror acrylic, with two clear and parts that clip into it. The reason for the mirror is to emphasise the vessel's drop keel much better and make it a feature. There are two boxes of fittings. The first one contains rigging rope of various sizes, whilst the second has a wealth of other things, such as brass pins, cannon and carronade barrels, winch, rigging blocks, anchors, carronade wheels, glass parral beads, black card, and also a nicely made name plate for the mirrored display base. For those unfamiliar with VM kits, the manuals are typically printed in an A4 format, as here, with some of the larger vessels having A3 manuals. All manuals are full colour and spiral bound. This kit also has eleven plan sheets which detail everything from parts maps, through construction and then onto rigging. So, that is a look under the hood of VM's latest kit. I'm not here to pass my own comments as I am too close to VM to do so. The quality of this release is commensurate with the whole range and nothing has had any corners cut to bring it to market. I also feel the price is fairly pitched for such a kit, especially with pear being included. If you fancy trying your hand at this unusual little kit, then head over to the VM page and grab yourself a copy! https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/product/trialcutter/
  10. Well that certainly was a bit of a shock. I will not try to rebuild everything back to the begining but here is a brief overview of from there to here. This pilot cutter is based on some plans that were published by MAP (Model and Allied Press) back in the early 70's and those plans were actually based on the fishing smack CK482. Those of you who have seen the build in the past will already be familiar with what I have done so far. The model is LOD 63 inches LOA 84 inches Beam 18 inches Draft 10 1/2 inches My intention is to sail this model here are a few pics of the build The frames are Jellutong, and the planking on the hull is Cedar. The roller reefing is custom built around a worm gear on hand. The mast is Clear Fir and the boom is Spruce. The deck is double planked the lower planks are white pine glued and treenailed into place the top planks are clear Fir the caulking is coloured Carpenters glue the top planks will also be treenailed in place. The cockpit surround is Honduras Mahogany as is the forward hatch and the cabin sides. The underside of the cockpit coaming the walls will drop into the opening 2 1/14 inches and there will be a gasket around the edge of the deck under the coaming. The cockpit will be fixed into the hull with a couple of brass machine screws then a teak floor grate will cover those. this way I can access the rudder controls and keep the water I have learned form this experience to back up everything and am now building my log in MSword and posting to the site. It is great to have the site back. Michael
  11. The Le_Cerf's keel was laid in my shipyard in June 2014. In AutoCad I drew the bulkheads with steps in them for the clinker planking, which speeded up the planking with narrowing only in the bow and stern. To provide a larger area of adhesion, the spaces in the stern and the bow are filled with alder wood. First were planked the transom and the stern counter. I decided not to use paint, but to make all the details of artificially blackened hornbeam. Clinker planking is made of swiss pear. The carvings will be made from European boxwood. As this will be my first attempt at carving, I hope my deer will not look like a cow. I made the mistake of listening to the older generation of shipmodelers who argued that using the steps in the bulkheads will not let me lay the planking fairly. For this reason I cut the half-finished clinker planking (as it turned out, my method of planking was very strong - barely managed to remove the strakes) and completely filled the spaces between the frames with alder. Following the advice given me, I also cut off the notches for the planking strakes from the bulkheads. Now, in order to glue one strake of planking, it was necessary to use a bracing timber to clamp the plank and prevent it from slipping. Because of this planking became a very slow process. No more than one strake a day could be made, as I had to wait for it to dry completely. Also, the gluing area has decreased, because each board no longer lay flat against the bulkhead, but only a narrow edge bore upon it and on the previous strake. Only in the bow and stern, where the clinker planks lie flat on the frames, did they have enough surface for the glue. My experience convinced me that that the first variant is stronger and more reliable. I ought to have followed through with my original plan and learn from my own mistakes, instead of listening to the advice of the older generation, which does not have experience of AutoCad and laser-cutting. At the same time began to work on the keel, the stem and the sternpost. For these I again used Asutrian (pink) pear and blackened hornbeam. I am using a table saw for this, though, of course, this could be done with AutoCad drawings for laser cutting. However, the laser doess not give a 100% perpendicular cut and for this reason I decided to make the details by hand. Besides, this proved to be a very interesting process of fitting the scarphs and faying the pieces together. At this stage work on the model was interrupted in January 2017, as I was commissioned to build a large model on a tight schedule. After a break of more than 3 years: Work on the model was renewed in March 2020. This stage of the work on La Cerf is already being carried out in a new country, in a new workshop. The work will follow a new methodology and will tell about it in the proper order. At last I completed the clinker planking and replaced the walnut gunport frames with pear, as the grain of the walnut did not match well with the pear. I used a soldering iron to remove the old pieces and glued in new frames. The pear I used was kiln-dried with oak and had obtained yellow-brown color. The cills will be installed after the completion of the outside planking. Then began building the transom with the help of a frying pan, which had the right radius for bending the planks. For the construction, I used soft poplar and built a support structure which will hold the transom in the right position until the completion of planking. I have begun mounting the wales and clean the planking from glue remains and fairing the surfaces for attaching the stem and sternposts. The wales are made of hornbeam, a hard, but workable material that acceptable bending characteristics. During the long interruption in construction, the transition to the new place, a few pieces of the stern post and the blank for the stem were lost... At the same time I was building the longboat of Le Cerf. You can see the whole process in the video. After the completion of the clinker planking and the wales, I finally added the keel and the stern post. Only part of the stem was mounted at this time. The rest will be added when the planking is completed. It was time to nail the planks and for this I manufactured 3500 naisl. Hopefully this will be enough for the entire hull. Before I could turn over the hull, I had to drill for and drive 2175 spikes (this is only for the clinker planking and the transom). Placing the hull right side up in the stocks is a key moment when the model finally begins to look like a real ship. The next stage of planking would be more easily accomplished with the vessel being right side up.
  12. Could someone please explain the difference between a Jolly Boat, a Captain's Gig and the shorter cutters. I understand a Jolly boat was 18 feet long or less and was used to transport people from ship to shore or ship to ship. I understand this is the same description of an 18 foot long cutter Are the then the same thing? What about the Captain's Gig?
  13. hi . its now time to start the build log for the us coast guard cable steam boat. a wil write more soon how its going to be built ! here ate some photos of the frame for now! svein erik
  14. Hello everyone, I'm happy to have come across the modelshipworld website and feel less lonely in my interest for model boatbuilding, in which I'm a complete novice, albeit with some basic manual skills. A few photos of my first model boatbuilding project, a bit unorthodox but for some reason I wanted to carve a hull from a solid piece of wood, I had oak on hand. Length 25 cm, scale 1/68 (?). Progress has sufficiently encouraged me to go forward with a complete build from scratch, I'm now pausing for research and finishing the hull so it truly fits the plan, using card cutouts of the frames for visual reference. I wish to build her historically correct from the time she was a pilot in le Havre, France. If you have any advice or tips, I'm all ears. Well done to all model builders who posted their projects, it's inspiring and encouraging, daunting sometimes when I see the superb detail.
  15. Hello all. In 2019, I bought the damaged and unfinished Alert hull via Allegro on the Internet. Cutter very nicely made sewn in difficult technique until he begged to finish it. Since May 2020, I have been trying to renovate and finish the construction of the Cuter Alert from 1777 based on the plans from the book Anatomy of the Ship by Peter Goodwin. Greetings, Piotrek PS. Sorry for the English but I use Google translator.
  16. Hello everyone Today is a good day to start my scratch build log. Maybe this Tableboat would be something for a scratch build log ... Seriously, i wish you all a happy new year! Cheers : ) Mike
  17. Buildweek 1 - entry 1 Hi there, I just received the kit Havmågen by Billing. Since this I really the Norden, with some colours and additional decals, I chose to place it under Norden. As I am from the Norwegian west coast, these boats are a common sight for me and I look forward to getting to know the hull shape better. In the kit a colour for painting the hull above the waterline is included, however this is not common here. So I'm wondering if I'll be able to plank it so well as not to paint it on my first build, or if I should just focus on gaining experience with this build. Any thoughts on this? I will try to follow the building instructions closely an not make any changes other than absolutely required ones. Possibly with the exception of the painting scheme. Next post will be unboxing and checking that all the parts are there and in good condition. Best regards, Halvor
  18. This is my first time posting here. I am currently working on a model of the Harvey that my Grandfather started many years ago but died before he could finish. He was a very talented engineer who wanted to build it scratch. So, he bought the kit and only left the store with the plans. Soon afterwards they discontinued production. Luckily I was able to find a kit on e-bay which gives me some hope of finishing it. As an avid sailor, I have my own sailboat but due to career implications I am forced to sell. So, I have decided that I will attempt to build a model of her. My way of keeping a piece of the little ship that will forever haunt me. However, no plans exist so I have had to take hundreds of measurements and draw up my own plans. This will clearly take a long time, probably many years. The photos here are the begining of the plans and a photo of the boat (not a very good one unfortunatly, my disk with the good photos is packed away).
  19. In 2016 I bought Chuck's Starting set from a fellow modeler who became a father. I glued the false keel together and then packed everything in a big box. While preparing the Winchelsea build, the box fell into my hands and I decided to build both models more or less in parallel. I can practise all the building steps on the much smaller Cheerful model before I do them on the Winchelsea. Since the false keel I built at that time was no longer usable and I want to build the model from Yellow Cedar, I asked Chuck for spare parts. These arrived on Saturday morning with a small delivery of wood. Many thanks for the first class service, @Chuck . I will build the model according to the instructions and with the help of the mini-kits. I have only one change planned - I want to copper the underwater hull. The slipway is a bit big for the small cutter, but as I still had it, it was reactivated. On Saturday evening I glued the false keel together and let it dry overnight. The frames could only be pushed into the recesses with difficulty - the thickness of plywood is always subject to slight fluctuations. I made a small sanding stick out of 180-grit sandpaper and a suitable strip. Then go over the lasered edges two or three times on each side and the frames fit perfectly (the frames are not glued in now). Finally, the stem was assembled.
  20. Hello, with my Triton and Winchelsea builds on hold, I am going begin on one of two models of a naval Cutter (the other one being about 1:32 scale from the same plans with some differences). So I used the Caldercraft Sherbourne plans of the kit I made last year, I scaled up by hand for the bulkheads and former, so the scale is not exact. I used some pieces of 4mm ply left over from other projects. Next up is fairing the hull, squaring and glueing. Bulkheads just fitted to check, not glued. Cheers
  21. Dear Fellows, I have difficulty to interpret the "fish hook-number" written by hand in many numbers of the inventory attached. I 'd appreciate your help to proceed my build of the af Chapman cutter. best regards cotrecerf
  22. The following is the reconstruction of my build logs for the Sherbourne following temporary loss of the Model Ship World Site in February 2013. First posted May 6th 2012. === It started with a birthday present in January of £200 from my daughter. What could I possibly want that would have some meaning over the year? I suddenly remembered that as a younger chap I had really enjoyed rigging plastic model ships, and had had a long-time yearning to work with wood. So on to the web, find out about ship models. Amazon for books, found 'The New Period Ship Handbook' by Keith Julier. It didn't give much (any) detail, but I thought maybe the Lady Nelson would be good. So researched that. Found this forum. Many days reading the variety of experience. Asked questions, thought about the Chatham as well, tried to get it but it was out of stock, so bought the Sherbourne Kit. My plan was not to go for the perfection of the other builds, but to get a basic understanding of the whole process, as I knew I would be making some frightful mistakes, and likely to be a bit messy as well. How right I was! Read all the planking advice on the Database, how to make filler blocks etc, then plunged in. Bought the kit, checked all the parts, stuck the tiddly little ones into the bags in the photo, put the frame together. Thought I'd be a clever little so-and-so and follow Danny's suggestion of inserting nuts in the hull to take pedestals at some future date. Even lined the bolts up with the bulkheads and epoxied the nuts in -- ensuring no glue was caught in the threads. All well and good ... so far.
  23. Hey there fellow builders! So I finally had a chance to start cataloging all the work I have been doing on my revenue cutters alongside Sultana. Sultana is proceeding slowly but surely as will soon be updated, however as some of you may know at the last ship model convention in Connecticut I won a kit of Bluejacket's 31 ton revenue cutter. From the moment I got it I couldn't help but start tinkering with it. The reason why I put this in the scratch section is because I plan on building all my ship models (at least for the moment) in 1/64th scale since I like to be able to make size comparisons. Therefore this log will be an exercise in how to properly resize a kit to a preferred scale. So what of the kit itself? Fortunately the ship comes in 3 sizes and at 1/64th scale the 51 ton falls in a similar size to the 31 ton at 1/48 scale. So in addition to a smaller 31 ton I am going to scratch build, I will also use the wood hull and some of the kit materials to also build the 51 ton ship. The wood block and plans must be modified but let's go over the details and I will show you how I have been proceeding Also if for whatever reason this log should be moved to the kit section then by all means as I wasn't sure which section to put it.
  24. Click on the tags in the title above (shown in black) for an instant list of all the build logs for that kit subject.
  25. I do hope I've titled this right. I can't toggle twixt typing here and checking the rules without losing this page completely, so if it ain't right, moderators, please correct the order. Well It's a model of the boat I used to live aboard in Burnham-on-Crouch in a line of similar-ish vessels, one of which, Ann Marie, a yawl, was successfully restored and went off chartering. Vanity, alas was moved to Bristol where I believe she has been destroyed for want of somebody with a piddling million to restore her. A few weeks of a footballer's salary would have secured her future, then the footballer could have been thrown away. SO....I figured it fell to me to make a decent model of her for posterity. Because I don't have huge amounts of time, despite being retired, I had to knock this thing up a bit sharpish. I found lines for Clara in Traditions and Memories of American Yachting, which has plenty of English yachts in with lines. I had the lines enlarged on a photocopier and transferred them to 3mm ply to make the bulkheads. Then cut them out on a bandsaw. A strong back style building board was made, the bulkheads glued to upstands representing a line above the vessel when upright, purely arbitrary. These upstands were then glued to square bars which were bolted to the strongback. The keel, which varies in width along the length of the boat (I should say the sided measurement) was drawn out to a plausible shape on the enlarged drawings and cut out of 3mm ply twice, as it would go from being stuck to the other one fore and aft, but have hardwood sandwiched in between along the middle portion of the vessel where the real one had 12 tons of lead. Once that was in place in slots pre-cut in the bulkheads, planking began. Now here I should say despite copious amounts of reading, I had never planked a model boat before, apart from a large clinker planked electric canoe model of a Peter Freebody craft that was done for a lady in Cincinatti. That was planked in veneer over a thin strip-planked hull which was completely lined, so no need to see the clinker inside. Also, I had given my son some old chairs my Granddad made in the 20s, but which had fallen to bits in modern central heating and asked him to rip them up into 2.5-3mm thick strips. These he did. I don't ave a full sized table saw. They ended up about an inch wide, so that's where I began. I cut the stem angle and bevelled that off behind then took it round to the sternpost, which was extremely raked being the rudder post effectively. The first 5 or 6 planks went on like that unfettled each side. Then as the bilge (such as it is on a plank-on-edge cutter) was rounded there came a need to shape them a bit here and there, but still not a huge amount. Only a few part-planks where I'd run out of full length planks and the final few each side up to the counter stern were awkward. The time came to take it off its building board. Bolts were removed and the upstands broken away. The amazing thing to me was how light it was! Even with some re-inforcement, it is stupidly light, which augers well for internal ballast only as the hull is very deep. It is now at the stage where I have glued in some deck supports and have to add supplementary deck beams to give the camber as I hadn't built that in. Weather has dictated that little has been done on the hull while I can't get the bandsaw outside, so I have made spars. I've used dowel as I didn't fancy the time it would take to do it by hand. But the surprisingly straight grained stuff from B%Q (yes really) still has to be tapered here and there. Mast and spar bands are made from strips of brass, bent round and silver soldered together or brass bar turned to fit with lugs soldered in to pre-drilled holes. For a complete change I started the after decklight. That was made in more Cuban Mahogany strip as the colour was gorgeous and the finish possible was hard and smooth. Here I should say that apart from using a small plane on the hull, I use metalworking tools almost universally on the quality woods I like. I cut using a jeweller's piercing saw against the metal vice jaws and clean up with Swiss files. I rarely use a knife and only for bigger jobs, a chisel. Even then that's likely to be a reground and honed Swiss file. I don't possess a razor saw. I tried one once, it stuck, I threw it away. Perhaps a life time of making brass patterns for the model industry has given me this preference. The casing has dovetailed corner joints and the lids have mortice and tenon joints, so that the whole thing effectively held itself together before gluing! Well, that's enough waffle. Please don't judge the hull too badly. It will be finished to a gloss black by the time I've filled and planed and epoxy coated it. The gaff jaws are made of Steamed Pear, a favourite timber of mine, fixed to flats on the spar, then drilled and pinned with brass rod. Currently this weekend I'm making a ropemaking machine from Perspex offcuts. I bought a random set of cheap nylon gears off ebay in order to make my own design of sail winches and I found just enough to make the ropewalk. It will be hand wound as I believe a man should suffer for his art<G> Cheers, Martin
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