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Found 8 results

  1. I have completed two recent ship builds - the Tamiya 1/350 Fletcher and the Tamiya 1/700 Repulse. I picked the Fletcher after absolutely failing on a Trumpeter 1/700 North Carolina. When I say an 'absolute fail' I do mean it. What I ended up doing with that partial build will make nobody happy... Anyway, after researching the web I chose the the Fletcher and then after that the Repulse. I wanted success and I wanted a build progression. I loved both kits, but wanted something that could challenge me a bit more. It has been multiple decades since I built a scale model so there has been learning process - and a bit of a rework process😊 I chose this Dragon kit because it gets great reviews for detail and accuracy and because it includes a bit of photo-etch. I have never worked with photo-etch. This will be something new... And, look at her!!! Ain't she a beaut with that 'dazzle' camo pattern. That will be a paint challenge. She seems to have had that scheme right out of the shipyard in late '43 and a monochrome scheme after she took damage and got repaired. Then again, maybe this photo (which was obviously used by World of Warships when camo'ing their image of the ship) is Fake News. Who knows. Don't tell me. I love accuracy, but I am in lust with this😍 Anyway, for whatever reason everybody posts a photo of the box art and frets - so, here goes: I guess that really doesn't show it in all it's glory, but me being in a wheelchair kinda limits the angle. This is how I see the world😁 And, here are the paints I am going to use: I am getting my Vallejo Model Color color matrix from: https://app.box.com/s/2hz3x8hp57kqk8qqyu40y0lndkdnc696 It seems to be the go to for matching air and naval colors to Vallejo stuff - which I can easily get about 2 miles away. I am seriously looking at the Sovereign Hobby's stuff once I run out of this. Part of the Fandango behind the North Carolina is that I ended up with about every paint available for almost any navy. Ugh. Since I can't read the notes, these are the paints/mixes: Hull & Superstructure Hellgrau (light grey) 70.989 + 70.883 Sky Grey + Silver Grey Mix 1:1 Hull & Superstructure Mittlegrau (medium grey) 70.989 + 70.991 Sky Grey + Dark Sea Grey Mix 1:1 Hull (Dark Over pattern) Deck: Dunkelgrau (darkish grey) 70.991 + 70.987 Dark Sea Grey + Medium Grey Mix 3:1 Deck As 'The Noob of Noobs' I really like it when folks document their paint. Questions: Given this amount of photo-etch (minimal) what tool(s) should I expect to use/purchase? And, how can I save paint after I mix it. That was a problem with the Repulse. I never got the same color/tone multiple times. And, a comment: Yowser, RGL and I have extremely similar tastes. I find a potential subject using that well laid out PDF and there he is with a build. I'm doing this public build here because of that dude. He and some others around here were the reason I found this site. I'm looking at you CDW and COG. My research pointed right here. GLHF.
  2. I brought and assembled this kit back in 2014, back then my modeling situation was very basic and despite poor eysight (not quite as bad as now) I used no form of magnifiers just my reading glasses. Its the Dragon type 42 Destroyer kit and builds lovely out of the box, all of the extended batch 3 type 42s can be built from the kit by I decided to build the last of the group that had some mods on her including a bow wave extension of her hull. I saw her a few times in the flesh where we used to live and that influenced me in building her - but looking at my attempts from then using my optovisors I can see all the flaws - so I thought why not have ago to see if I can improve on what I built back then using the same kit - nothing drastic I will not be taking her apart or re painting - just doing a wee bit of a tidy up job under higher magnification. Here are a few pics including a photo I took of the real ship and a last pic as she was being made ready to be scapped and my old model shots. Hope this will be worth it. OC.
  3. Build #3 First, a little background The Dragon Source: International Dragon Association The Dragon was designed by Johan Anker in 1929. The original design had two berths and was ideally suited for cruising in his home waters of Norway. The boat quickly attracted owners and within ten years it had spread all over Europe. In 1937 the Gold Cup was presented to the class by the Clyde Yacht Clubs Association. This quickly became one of the principal championships in the class and a prestigious trophy in the world of competitive yachting. LOA 8.9m Beam 1.95m Draugh 1.2m Displacement 1700kg (with mast) Mainsail 16m² Genoa 11.7m² Spinnaker 23.6m² The Olympic Years In 1948 the Dragon became an Olympic Class, a status it retained until the Munich/Kiel Olympics in 1972. It remains the only Olympic yacht ever to have a genuinely popular following outside the Games. Since the Olympics the Dragons have gone from strength to strength. The major reason for this has been the ongoing controlled development of the boat. In 1973 thanks to the hard work of Borge Borresen a G.R.P. specification was adopted, metal spars having been introduced in 1970. This proved to be a major milestone in the class's development. Designed from the first to compete on equal terms with the existing wooden boats, the GRP dragons are incredibly stiff - one reason why boats remain competitive at top level for years. More information: Scuttlebutt Sailing News – “Dragon Class – Stronger than Ever” SailboatData.com – “Dragon” SailingWeek.com – “ANTIGUA DRAGON YACHT CLUB CHALLENGE: MAY 8-9, 2017”
  4. Hello again ... my second model posting. About 40 years ago my wife bought this kit for me and I put it together as well as I could. This was all pre-internet and I had nothing more to guide me than the instructions in the box. We were sailors ourselves so I had a pretty good idea how it should work! Anyway, I just assembled the hull, made a backing board for it and hung it on the wall where it stayed for about 35 years collecting dust. A few years after I retired I started scratch building as a hobby and decided to tart her up a bit. Here's how she looked when I started stage 2 ... By now we had the internet and I looked at many Dragons there and just chose what features I liked best and incorporated them into mine. I decided first to plank the deck as it just had the sheet of wood that came with the kit. Haven't a clue now what I used as caulking in case anyone wants to know. Have a feeling I scored the tiny gap i left between the planks with a fine triangular file and rubbed something in as caulk. Cut mahogany strips for a deck edge coaming and as a king plank of sorts. Made a little dog-house from a scrap of mahogany and added a raised coaming with scaled quarter-round around the cockpit and added some nice bases for the winches. I have a healthy supply of wood scraps so of many varieties so I included them whenever possible. This floor grating is from cocobolo strips ... Tiller uses alternating mahogany and "something else" ... pine maybe? bent and glued around pins on a board. Metal fittings scratch made from aluminum scraps. .... Winches and traveller are scratch built too ... Likewise a few deck fittings ... This was as far as I wanted to take the project as I had no interest in making it into a sailing model. Oh yes, I finished up the keel, made fittings to support a rudder then ran a tube through to which I attached the tiller ... sorry no pictures. However, good friends of ours make boat cradles for a living so I had to make something they'd approve of so some nice mahogany scraps were selected for the purpose. I had to make proper tilting supports too so they were scratched from small bolts. So that's where she stands today and has resumed her duties as an excellent dust collector!! Thanks for looking in. Frank
  5. Hello everyone, after I had so much positiv response about the pictures of my model in the gallery, I decided to start a blog about this ship. About the Dragon is to say, it was a third rate ship, designed by Thomas Slade and build at Deptford. Launched 4.3.1760 and sold 1784. It is not the first ship model I have build, but the first 18th century and framed model. A friend told me about the Bellona and I'm interested to learn more about these ships. My first name is Siegfried and that name is program, Siegfried was the most famos dragon fighter here in Germany, or the only? So I would build the Dragon. I ordered the plans from the NMM and a lot of books from everywhere. Then I started learning. Because the whole ship would be too large in 1:48, I decided to build only the stern part, from the 10th frame backwards. After 3 month I started with the model. That was in the winter of 2011/12. In 2012 a friend of mine was in London and I asked him to take pictures from the models at the NMM. That was a great thing and helped me a lot. In 2013 I visited the NMM and the shipyard at Chatham. Here I saw the Superb, the third ship of the Bellona class. That visit changed a lot, you will see it in the pictures. I changed mostly the color of the hull. I will post the first pictures in a fast pass, to get update with the actual level of work. And please excuse my english. Regards, Siggi
  6. The classic wood Dragon sailboat. The Dragon was designed by Johan Anker from Norway in 1929. The original design had two berths and was ideally suited for cruising in his home waters of Norway. The boat quickly attracted owners and within ten years it had spread all over Europe. It's one of the worlds most popular keelboats with Dragon Fleets the world over. Between 1948 and 1972 the Dragon class was raced in the Olympic Games. The early boats were constructed of wood but during the early 1970s fiberglass boats were developed. The controlled development of the class has lead to a classic yet modern keelboat. Back in the day, there were two Dragons moored at Montrose Harbor, 'Sea Pup' was one. Dragons sit low in the water and they are the fastest looking boats in the harbor. The classic wood Dragons are just plain gorgeous! Be still my heart. I purchased the Corel 1:25 Dragon kit a few years ago. As usual I'll be making some changes to the build. Most significant change is the hull will only be painted below the water line. The wood that came with the kit is nice and will look good with a varnish finish. My collection of modeling tools will fit inside a shoe box with room for the shoes: Straightedge razor blades, metal files in two sizes, X-acto knife with #11 blades, wire cutters, various sanding sticks that I made, sandpaper, micro drill, CA and PVA glue, a digital caliper and a 6" metal ruler that doubles as a scraper. For some of the decking and mast, I'll add a soldering iron. On woodenboat.com there's a thread titled "Time for a Dragon Thread" with lots of eye candy photos. Check it out! The new Dragons are high tech boats. Here's an except from an article about Dragons by Matthew Sheahan in Yachting World, July 3, 2015. The new fiberglass Dragons look fast, but they have too many "strings". Check out that photo of the bolt on keel being machined. The Corel Dragon kit is the typical Corel kit, great drawings, nice wood, lots of little parts and instructions that are less than so-so. But the drawings are great and have logic to the way they are laid out. I started building 'Puff' last Spring. But between June 1 and August 30, I spent 35 days on the road at out of state events, another 25 days at local events and a few more days for event preparation and post event paperwork and poof! Where did the summer go? The hull planking is done and starting to work on the cuddy and add the benches to the cockpit. The hull will be painted below the waterline, right now I'm thinking a teal blue or ultramarine blue. Above the waterline, I'll add a few coats of poly. I don't have a lot of photos, but enough to recreate the build. Dee Dee Chris Destano, 5 River Road #123, Wilton CT
  7. Decided to drag this model out of the closet at build it to try and break my model building blues. I became a bit distracted by other life events and modeling took a back seat. Am hoping this will rekindle a fire. For starters, here are a few pictures of what I am building. Will add a simple photo etch set and a wooden deck to give a little flavor. I started by building the anti aircraft guns and secondary guns. The parts are so small and detailed, it's hard to believe plastic can be molded in that fashion. Plastic models have come a long, long way since I was a kid. For the youngsters among us, that was just after Noah built his ark.
  8. The first Dragen was built in 1929 in Gothenburg, Sweden. The sailing characteristics of the vessel were so fine that the boat soon was used throughout the world, and especially in Europe. As time passed, the Dragen changed gradually, so that today only the hull is original. In 1948 the Dragen became an Olympic yachting class, and all measurements have been standardized by the international Sailsport Union. I started this kit about 25 years ago, had it stored in my garage since then. Then i got interested again, and started to rebuild/restore here. It turned out to be a fun project, and joining the MSW only made it better, a lot of helpful people with a ton of knowledge. The build will continue, but first upload the buildlog pictures. I had a big job ahead, it looked like a stranded ship wreck. Børge
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