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  1. While showing my grandson the Zebulon B. Vance progress I gave him my magnifiers and let him trim a PE stanchion. Since he's a first rate Lego constructor he did an admirable job of trimming, but finished with a question about whether anyone makes a kit with bigger pieces for beginners. I jumped onto Bluejacket's web page after he left and found the perfect answer, the Skiff wooden kit. Big, with not too many pieces to help ensure a timely and successful finish. When I revealed it to him he said a great idea would be for us to have a blog(!) to see if anyone is interested and to see where and how far away the other shipbuilders live. So this will be an on again, off again build dependent upon how often we can steal him from Mom and Dad for an overnight visit. The goal is to have Legodude (his choice) do the building with guidance limited to explaining the instructions and how to read a drawing.
  2. Hi All, So my Polaris has arrived, along with the Occre Work Stand, starter kit tool pack and paints recommended by Cornwall Model Boats, who have been very helpful, which were quite a bit cheaper than the Occre paint set. I've also invested (a term I use often when explaining all the parcels arriving to my very understanding and supportive Wife) in some files, a pin pusher, sanding sticks, glues and filler. I suppose there will be other purchases along the way. It's coming with me to Brussels and I'll start her once I've finished my Airfix Titanic. I've been reading through Ilia's build log, what has completed a fantastic Polaris and I'm sure I'll be returning a lot for inspiration and tips!
  3. Started my build in November 2023. Found this website and it has been a great help from many of your builds. And thanks for those that replied. Looking forward to this build more than ever. Will update my progress. Just starting to paint. Most of the build going forward looks quite intimidating! Sure will need help. My only comment on this model so far is the directions & plans are a real challenge.
  4. This is my first ever build but it is something I have wanted to try for years so thought I would jump in the deep end despite reading lots of horror stories of those who have started something too complex for their first build. Anyway I started after Christmas after looking at some of the other build logs and thought I would share progress as a complete newbie.
  5. Table of Contents Welcome to my build log for documenting the making of HM Cutter Alert by Vanguard Models. In order to keep this organized I have reserved this first post for a table of contents in order to allow future readers to jump ahead to sections they are interested in if so desired. Log #1: And So It Begins Log #2: Assembling the Frame Log #3: Designing the Deck Log #4: Final Assembly and Faring Log #5: Planking and then Re-Planking Log #6: Lining Off the Hull Log #7: Fixing More Errors Log #8: The Stern Bulkhead and Counter Log #9: Lining Up the Wales Log #10: Concerning Drop Planks Log #11: Adjusting the Second Band Log #12: The Garboard Strake Log #13: Planking Retrospective Log #14: Building the Transom Part I Log #15: Building the Transom Part II Log #16: Building the Transom Part III Log #17: The Margin Planks Log #18: The Inner Bulwarks and Fixing the Boom Crutches Log #19: Cutting the Gun Ports Log #20: Preparing the Hull Log #21: Painting Styles Log #22: Painting the White and Blue Log #23: Painting the Inner Bulwarks and Edge Highlighting Log #24: The Margin Planks Log #25: The Cap Rail, Timberheads and Catheads Log #26: One Step Forward Two Steps Back Log #27: Fixing the Transom Log #28: The Rudder Log #29: Blackening and Bending Log #30: The Cannon Carriages Part I Log #31: The Cannon Carriages Part II Log #32: Painting the Deck Fittings Log #33: Fixing the Railing Log #34: The Pumps Log #35: Cannons and Other Fittings Log #36: Rope Log #37: Painting the Transom Images Log #38: Painting Complete Log #39: Rigging the Guns Part I Log #40: Rigging the Guns Part II Log #41: Odds and Ends Log #42: Mass Production Log #43: Rigging the Guns Continued Log #44: Hiding the Super Glue Spots Log #45: Blocks for the Gun Tackle Log #46: Blocks for the Gun Tackle Continued Log #47: The Gun Tackle Log #48: Hull and Fittings Complete Log #49: The Mainmast Log #50: First Attempt at Serving Log #51: The Shrouds and Standing Backstay Log #52: Running Backstay and Fiddle Blocks Log #53: Puzzling about the Mainmast Standing Rigging Log #54: The Mainstay and Preventer Stay Log #55: Preparing the Mainmast Log #56: The Boom and the Gaff Log #57: The Shrouds Part II Log #58: Revisiting the Rudder and Windlass Log #59: Finishing the Mainmast Log #60: Shrouds Complete Log #61: Shroud Batons & Running Backstays Log #62: Rigging the Mainstay Log #63: Rigging the Preventer Stay Log #64: The Bowsprit Log #65: Tying of the Stays and Shrouds Log #66: Year End Review Log #67: Ratlines, Ratlines & More Ratlines Log #68: Master & Commander Log #69: Ratlines Complete Log #70: Rigging the Gaff Log #71: Raising the Boom Log #72: Tying Off Lines Log #73: The Yards Log #74: Painting the Yards
  6. First build and log for me, slight delay in getting started when AT sent the full HMS Endeavour instead of the Longboat version, but all sorted quickly by AT and am now building. Managed to get all the ribs dry fitted, quite a bit of play in the parts, but some lego blocks seem to have worked in making sure everything was square. I dry fitted the deck after gluing the ribs to make sure alignment was OK and so far seems OK
  7. Greetings. Up until a month ago it had been 30 years since I’d made a model, and no disrespect, but it was just a plastic car; parts included. Maybe 20 years ago a friend invited me into the back of her parents’ garage where her father had set up a shop. Scratch builds upon scratch builds. Last year his work was displayed at a museum in our home town and the memories of his shop surfaced. There’s a video, too, which I’m sure you’ve all seen. Apart from the style of the documentary, which was lovely, the subject matter and the modeler’s philosophical approach pulled me deeper into the archetype. And then, I’m a sailor. A recent convert (6 seasons) but flush with zeal. Our first boat was a Manhassett Bay One Design, which I refit over the course of two winters. The pics of that boat, 23 SKIDDOO, follow I have also been harboring an interest in milling lumber, which occasionally rears its ugly head in hours long binging of sawmill videos, and has also lead to my small collection of logs from local trees: beech and apple. So many pieces of the puzzle were in place (more than I’ve illustrated here) that when I happened upon a copy of Thirty Wooden Boats and saw the Biscayne Bay Sailing Skiff I knew I wanted to make a model of it. I want to make a full size one, too, but there aren’t as many pieces of that puzzle falling into place. I believe this boat, which I’ve named Rigel, is a suitable first scratch build for a number of reasons. The plans are good. The hull is double chined. WoodenBoat magazine documented a build of this boat step-by-step in three installments (#s 96, 97, 98.) So, a relatively uncomplicated, beautiful design that comes with some directions. I harvested a beech log from the woodpile at Planting Fields in Oyster Bay, New York. It came from the limb of a tree that was part of an original copse. The landscape of that estate was designed by the Olmstead Brothers. Here’s a piece of quarter sawn beach that I milled, it would become the transom, transom knee and stem. Primary tool so far: photocopy machine. I intend to build the boat as it would be at full size, so using a photocopy machine, a digital caliper, a light table and some fine drafting pens I mocked up the molds. First I increased the size of the plans 200%. Then I traced the section lines, printed a mirror image, lined up the two sides and made a reduced copy until I got the scale I wanted, 1:24. One inch equals 24 inches or 2 feet. The section lines represent the outside of the hull so I had to compensate for the planking. This image is of the 1:1 plans with a squared piece of white oak that I’ve used as a strong back, to which I attached the molds, eventually. You know when I saw that this was the size of the molds I thought I had lost my mind. The notches seemed minuscule. I feared endless frustration as I began to try every method possible for cutting these shapes out of doorskin. Eventually, I called my neighbor who has a laser cutter. She definitely helped me out and I might have bailed on the project if it weren’t for that little boost. Accurate molds are crucial for a decent final product…I’ve heard. That being said, I am not sure I would feel comfortable using a laser printer to cut pieces that would actually be used on the boat. But that’s just me. After getting them cut I had to attach the molds to the strong back. There were a lot of steps to this. Drawing out station lines on the strong back, gluing the molds down, using legos to get right angles…starting over. Lining up the molds correctly, in relation to the station lines and the sweep of the keel…eventually I got it. With this part in place I was ready to start working on the keel, which is essentially a plank with a large rabbet removed from the edge to fit the garboard plank. How was I going to cut a rabbet into this plank? I wasn’t. I “lofted” the shape of the keel, used some photo copy magic and created two templates: one for the wide portion of the keel and on for the narrower rabbet piece.I glued them together to form one solid keel with a rabbet “cut out.” I used glue stick to attach the pattern. I rough cut then sand to shape. Here I’ve glued the transom (and knee) to the wider keel piece and dry fit the Rabbet with rubber bands. Glued and clamped. I use those office clips with bits of cork to dampen the squeeze. The rubber bands keep the keel bent. When the glue dried and the keel came off the molds, the curve was holding. . I’ll leave you with one image and then, until next time… peace. See you after Thanksgiving.
  8. Finally made a start, after getting the work area cosy. Good to read through the instructions, as recommended, as found a few errors in the bulkhead and other pieces indentification. Also found the bulkheads were a little loose in the keel piece. One of the many videos I've watched suggested Lego blocks for a perfect right angle. And they have worked a treat. False deck just gone on. Again, from watching many videos I wont be putting the stern and bow posts, or keel piece until first planking complete. Im sure there are many mistakes already, but I'm quite happy, so far, for this first attempt.
  9. Hello all, I got a start on my first wooden ship model over the weekend. I have had a great time so far, with a few frustrating moments created by myself, an injury at the dockyard and a realization I am terrible at small scale painting. I do have some modelling experience, I built quite a few plastic model airplanes, cars, and military equipment in my youth so I do know some techniques but it has been 20 years since my last model, and as I have found out wood is a completely different animal. I do have some questions on the paint colors, other than the picture on the box it doesn't seem like there is any guide in the instructions on what color parts should be painted. I bought a paint kit for HMS beagle from Model Expo, but I'm just not sure what colors should be used for, I could definitely use a hand explaining some of these colors I have never heard of. I'm still learning sailing/ship terminology so please be patient If I name something incorrect. Anyways here is my start on the HMS Beagle log. Here are the colors that came in my kit, any help on these would greatly be appreciated. Here is the assembly of the skeleton of the ship, nothing much to look at yet just lots of glue and making sure pieces are squared away. Once I had the frame glued together my next step was to start planking the deck. I used a pencil to line the boards, and then lined them at 60mm and added nails. I know the pencil caulking and nails are controversial, but I wanted to try the process out for myself and see how it looked. Veterans of this kit will notice a mistake I made at this point, I still wouldn't notice it for another night. The next day I started to assemble to fore and aft interior ship walls and started to add planks to the walls. After dinner I sat down and started to look over the instructions, I then noticed my deck looked "off" compared to the instructions, and it hit me that I got a little carried away trimming the deck cutouts. Maybe I shouldn't watch American Football Playoffs while I work on the model...... This is where the dock workers should have stopped for the night and started fresh the next morning. A little frustrated at my mistake I decided to try and see if I could pull up a few of the planks and replace them. The only tool I could find to fit the job of prying the piece up was a razor blade, I got one piece up without too much trouble and then started on the second piece. This is when the razor blade slipped out from the wood and straight into my right hand behind my thumb, it was a very deep cut. The dock medic quickly came over and we cleaned the wound and closed it up with some super glue, no workers comp granted for this dock worker. Getting back to the model I decided just adding planks on top of the old planks and sanding them down a bit was the safest solution. The spouse says you can hardly notice the mistake, but as most model builders know your own mistakes are the most obvious. I also finished planking the fore and aft walls, you can also see a closer view of my correction, not super noticeable from afar, but if you inspect closely you can see the extra wood. Next up was the doors. I wasn't a fan of the solid laser cut brass doors and couldn't find much info on what color the doors should be so I settled on using the American Walnut paint (not stain) that came with the kit and giving it a white outline to kind of match the ships color. I have not painted with material this small in a long time, and I understand why so many of you have magnifying glasses now. My doors look terrible, but I came to the conclusion that it was the best I personally could do with what I have, and to not spend too much time getting hung up on them. I'm still not satisfied and may come back to them, but I'm really not sure I will be able to do much better. That's all I have for now. If you read through all of that, I appreciate your time. I am new to the hobby so any advice, tips, hints are greatly appreciated. Being a new student is one of the most fun parts of a new hobby. My main lesson I've learned so far is you really need to pay attention to the instructions on these kits, and I am starting to follow other Beagle build logs to help along the way.
  10. Like many, I had an old kit sitting around for years (this one from early/mid 80's) and finally got to it. It's one of 4 models I have, two I bought to build "some day", and two more my father bought but passed on to me when he realized he was running out of "some days" as it were. I didn't start recording all the steps so this is going to soon jump right into the thick of it with some pictures of things I finished up in the last month. I'm also going to artificially break down some of the steps into separate posts just so there's a bit more of a focused subject for each one. Before showing what I started recording with photos, I thought I'd share some of the steps I did "off camera" and what I learned, plus what I used as motivation and learning. First, the plywood bulwarks were a real pain to get right. I quite like the approach that the OcCre kits take, where there is a notch in the bulwarks that fits into a protruding part on the deck plywood so they go just where they should. If I'd seen this before I assembled mine, I'd have been tempted to modify them to use that technique. Second, rather than plank the first layer around the very bow and stern, I built them up with balsa infill. I left the infill proud of the frames such that they had the same surface as the main hull first layer of planks. I got this trick from the YouTube builder Harry Houdini Models. See this video starting about 2:30 for the technique. Third, I quite liked the planking approach that OcCre uses on their models, where they place full width planks without tapers, then fill in with wedges. Their Endurance YouTube series shows it well I think, plus it's got the most pleasing music I've ever heard on any build video! Here's their starting video for planking. Next post will be a fast-forward to the close to finished hull.
  11. I'm new to MSW and ship building. I have done a lot of modeling over the years. And I have found out that ship building is the 'meat and potatoes', if you will, of modeling. I have lost a lot of my earlier photos of the cannon being built and the hull construction. I followed pete coleman example and others to get ideas for details. Books are needed to build these ship models if you want to even try to be accurate. I'll be submitting a lot of my photos. Many of which will be rather boring but I want to preserve them somewhere other than Facebook. All comments and tips are welcome!
  12. Question, In the instructions it shows gluing the ship to the stand early in the build. I worry that might restrict flexibility in painting. Can/should I wait until closer to installing masts etc? David
  13. The Swift is my first wooden boat build, so I’m a newbie. I appreciate any suggestions, advice or input from you more experienced builders. I used to build plastic and wood aircraft models as a kid, but that was more than 50 years ago. Now that I’m retired, I have really been looking forward to building models again, particularly ship models. I’m hoping I can maintain my enthusiasm through the trials and tribulations ahead. When I first opened the box I noticed that the false keel was warped. I know for my reading (the kit directions, “Ship Modeling Simplified,” by Frank Mastini, and various articles in this forum) that it is essential to get the false keel and bulkheads perfectly aligned. So I posted questions on the Building, Framing and Planking forum about this issue, and got some good advice. Mtaylor suggested just cutting a new false keel, and both he and michael101 talked about inserting spacers between the bulkheads and clamping them to straighten out the keel. The more I looked at the false keel, the more I realized that the most obvious warps were right on the bulkhead cut lines. See attached pictures. So in the end I ordered some plywood of the same thickness and I have now cut the new false keel. It’s quite straight and I’m quite happy with it. I have begun fitting (but not gluing) the bulkheads. Obviously I’m just getting started. I really appreciate the availability of these forums because I’m convinced I’m going to need lots of advice.
  14. Hello all! After reading through several posts and build logs, I decided to start my modeling adventure with the Lady Nelson. I have no carpentry/wood-working experience or with many of the very practical things that go into ship modeling, but I do look forward to this craft which so many seem to have found stimulating as well as satisfying. I think my first encounter with ship modeling was through my high school band director 20 years ago, and if I’m not mistaken, his first model was the HMS Victory. Now that I have started reading through build logs and such, I am mightily curious which model kit he started with and what scale he completed! Incidentally, he also got me started reading both C.S. Forester and Patrick O’Brian, so this interest in nautical history and ship modeling has been a little ambition of mine for a long time, which I am finally starting to make good on. Reading many of the logs available on the Lady Nelson, so many folks have made different improvements along the way to the kit, and I have been having this little debate in my head as to what I might improve and whether or not I will work to elevate the model in a particular way or in several ways. In one sense, there is just the hurdle of the first build (and planking!) to surmount, and then adding various bits to the model can seem daunting when I’m not even so sure that my bulkheads are installed properly! I also understand the need to plan ahead for those improvements should I decide to make them. But all in all, I have decided to try and have fun, take on the problems as they come and let the next step be the next step. I’ll post some of my initial issues and current progress soon. Cheers!
  15. My first build! As exciting as it is intimidating. After staring at the box for a bit, getting over my nerves, I cracked my knuckles and cracked open the lid. Step one admittedly wasn’t photogenic—I made sure all the pieces were present, gave the full instructions a careful read, and then poured over multiple build logs. The next day, the real fun began. I opted to build the bottom from scratch rather than use the pre-made piece. This meant cutting, gluing, and sanding—so much sanding. I was skeptical at first, but low and behold, the instruction’s tip about moving the piece rather than the paper worked. Instead of a sanding stick, I opted to just tape some sandpaper flat to my working surface. A great decision for these long, straight pieces! Not so great for others. (More on that later.) Hoping to spare my fictional sailor a tumble into a sharp corner, I studiously over-sanded the edges of my cleats. The instructions spoke about removing edges to prevent injuries—but…what about the thole pins? They make sense to have, but I can’t help but think they’re a stab wound waiting to happen. A poor fate for a clumsy sailor… When sizing the cleats, I ignored the length of the burnt guidelines. Instead, I followed what other builders had done and made sure each one had some breathing room before the edge. After sanding and gluing the stem without incident, the transom gave me pause. I decided to go a little off-book, sanding it and the stern knee together before attaching the stern cleat. It seemed to me like a choice between vigorously sanding three freshly glued, breakable parts or two. (I opted for two.) I’m really proud of how it turned out! After adding glue to the transom and plopping the stern cleat on, I strung the two together with sewing pins. This let me squish the pieces together without fear of misalignment or gluing the holes shut. It also made it a million times easier to brush away excess glue. A simple strategy, but very effective. Should the edges of the stern cleat be softened as well, for our clumsy sailor? The instructions didn’t mention it so I refrained, but I feared once again for his poor noggin. After that, I was humbled. I spent far, far too long attaching the pieces to the bottom. I thought about it, researched it, did it, fussed with it so much the glue gave up, then had to do it all over again. I just couldn’t decide on the alignment. Should I follow the burnt template line, allowing a bunch of the stern knee to hang over the edge? Should I keep the point of the base and the outside of the transom lined up? Other build logs seemed to differ, and I couldn’t find many clear shots from the side to compare. I’ll upload pictures of mine. If it turns out I made a bad choice, others will know what not to do. If it works out—whew! One of the things I’ve enjoyed most about these dory build logs has been seeing what random things people scrounge up to use as weights. For mine, I made use of an egg cup my grandfather gave me. The whole kit and caboodle was set aside to dry, with a few other rejected weights keeping watch behind it. Onto the frames! I’ve seen many people comment on the template being the wrong size. I actually found it to be exactly 1:1—which makes me think I’m either lucky or doing something wrong. A few things I found helpful: I taped a sheet of parchment paper over the template to avoid gluing the paper. I numbered and labelled each left and right piece in pencil before cutting them free. This saved me almost immediately when I cut out and sanded a “2R” instead of a “3R”. It occurred to me I could have used this labelling as an opportunity to practice “port” and “starboard”. Then I realized I’d be adding additional challenges to an already daunting project. Left and right it was. A note to myself for next time: this worked great, but the pencil was difficult to erase before gluing. I’d write lighter next time. I prepped the frames one at a time but held off on gluing. The process: pick a number, label the two frame pieces, cut them out, sand them down with a scrap of sandpaper, then dry assemble it on the template. Once all of the frames were sitting primly in place, I could go through and glue them all at once. Since the glue dries so fast on my palette, I found this more economical (and it saved me some brush washing). I taped down the crosspieces. I’m so thankful I taped down the crosspieces! It meant I could easily lift the whole thing upward to clean the excess glue beneath, then settle everything right back into place. Free spacers were helpful to tap the freshly glued bottoms against, ensuring they were flat. This stage was when I really started feeling my lack of a sanding stick. I’ve got an old wrist injury, and it was starting to complain. So were my fingers, which had been slowly filed down alongside my pieces. Ah well. Funny how every tip I followed treated me well, and I regret skipping the one I didn’t. Almost like I should listen to the experts… After gluing up the frames, I checked the status of my now-dry boat bottom and found it lacking. Out came the water again, and a book was added to the weight mix. That’ll show it. I seriously debated continuing, but as I’d just spent half the day squished up at my table, a break seemed in order. I’ve got the itch now! But planking is intimidating. A problem for later…after my new sanding stick dries. 😄
  16. Good evening all, This is my first log and first ship as i delve in to the world of model ship building. I have a fair bit of Sci-Fi model building and painting behind me and i am hoping that I can bring that patience across to ship building. The model I have is the lovely HMS Peregrine by Corel, it is slightly bigger than i would have liked for a first ship, however, as it was given to me by a friend of the family that had lost patience and given up was not going to look a gift horse... So where am i at now? Well the model came with the hull already built and it looks although they had an initial crack at planking and that is where they gave up. I have spent the initial few hours organising the pile of jumbled up wood, translating the instructions from Italian and researching wood colors to allow me to identify the correct planks. This to my deliberate and need for organised structure brain was fun in itself. I have then spent a bit of time measuring and checking symmetry where i found that the hatches were 2mm off centre, so they had to come off, next comes removing excess glue and sanding the bow. Now this is where my first disagreement comes with the instructions which is telling me to fix the gunwales and planking before the decking. however, it would appear if I did this then getting a nice smooth deck flush with the planking will be nigh on impossible. So it looks like i will be going off piste, i will update later and tell you all if I regret or approve of this. Due to working away for weeks at a time the updates may be infrequent or splurges of progressive. Please see the photos attached of the ship so far and prior to fixing errors (you can see how off centre the hatches are), also my organised drawer of wood that I spent far too long doing.
  17. I have just accidentally deleted my entire build log. I thought I was deleting one post rather than the whole thing. I must now redo the entire log. This is most distressing, but at least I have the opportunity to make improvements in what I did. Fortunately I still have all the photos that I used. Unfortunately, all the likes, comments, and photos that were posted to my log by other MSW members are lost. Work on this will commence this afternoon. Unless the moderators object, I will do a series of posts, rather than try to do the whole thing in one. I plan for each post to be on a particular topic, or phase of construction.
  18. Slow progress here indeed, but I'm enjoying it very much. The instructions say I should next install all the 'deck furniture', that is items like the windlass and pumps, hatch, etc. I am beginning to stain and paint those bits and pieces. However, I am looking forward to doing the rigging, so have begun making the masts and spars at the same time. As you can see, the photos here are mainly to show the planking and rudder details. I didn't use the secondary planking provided with the kit. Those mahogany strips were 5mm wide. Since we're dealing with a scale of 1:100, that would represent planks about 20 inches wide! I didn't like that idea, so I went to my stash of cherry-wood strips and picked the narrowest, which were 1/8" wide and .5mm thick. For the finish I brushed on two diluted coats of polyurethane gloss varnish, followed by a final coat of diluted satin, rubbing down between each coat. I much prefer to use these products thinned down. Granted that means more coats, but I'm not in a rush.
  19. Hi everyone, I just got done (kind of) with the shipwright series and decided to make a small step up and do the Polaris by OcCre. I botched the lobster smack and it’s now somewhere in our local landfill. I’ve never done a build log before and don’t really know all the part names and honestly will never figure out what side port is and if the front is aft or not lol. I’m sure this stuff will come, but for now I’m just enjoying building! I haven’t documented the process that well but here’s where I’m at. I’m getting a bit ahead of myself and have started putting together a couple things that go on the deck. Some of those little features are already on it. Hopefully that doesn’t cause probs for me later. id love for anyone to point out any places that need work. I’ll try to keep this updated, but I am a two job guy so my time is a bit limited. -Travis
  20. Hello, I decided to attempt the Flyer as my first build. Actually I did build a very basic AL kit - the Barcelona - many moons ago, but it had a plastic moulded hull so I’m not sure it counts! It was also well before I stumbled across this forum. Many of the models here are truly inspirational, and I’m continually blown away by the levels of craftsmanship I see. I was heavily influenced by the fact that the Flyer has a solid hull, and I think the finished model is a nice looking boat. I just hope that my model bears at least some resemblance to the box art! I have a couple of old AL kits waiting in the wings (Marie Jeanne & Supply), but wanted to cut my teeth on something a little simpler. So this is what I’m aiming for. I’m not sure how many people might drop in and take a look, but I would welcome any and all feedback (good and bad!) Thanks, Will.
  21. Hey guys, I am starting my first log for the HMS Endeavour. This is my first wooden ship. Let see how it goes. I have collected few basic tools and started building few days ago. Here are the first pictures...
  22. Hello all, I Just want to announce that I started my HMS Victory build last January, but have only just gotten around to starting this build log, I'll add a few posts over the next few days to bring the log up to speed of where I am currently (78 hours in) with accompanying pictures. Opening the Box, numbering the parts, building the Slip and assembling the keel and the Hull Bulkheads took me to about 21 hours
  23. Had this started 9 years ago, as usual life got in the way but managed to put a bit together here and there. Not worth starting a build log just to have it seem abandoned. Just started again the other day with a bit more time available. Building this for my Admiral who would love to travel on one, but because of her own issues barely leaves the house. Likeley to be a slow build so please bear with me. Progress so far. Hull built and planked Livestock area. I added tie rings to both side. You don't want animals fighting over the hay or running wild on deck! Hooks for the livestock area. Rounded tops so no animal injuries! Barn doors and hinge. Looks better from a normal viewing distance 🙂 And where would I be without my helper! Cheers for now, Bob
  24. So , here goes, I've decided to have a go at modelling and having always being fascinated with the Titanic I thought I would start there. I've completed about half of it so far and thought I would build a log, as much for me to look back on as also to gain some expert tips from members here. I have also bought an Occre Polaris, which will be next project, I thought I would try plastic and wood and see which I like best, although I think in the end I will continue with both for variety. I've been looking at the amazing build logs on here for this model and I'm already learning, which is why I started in the first place. Anyway, here goes....
  25. Starting my first ever ship build on the much maligned Revell 1/535 kit. Ever since visiting the Missouri 10 years ago, I wanted to have a physical memory of the visit. The lack of detail on the kit is well commented on, so I'm looking at using my visit memories and photos to bring this early plastic model up a little bit in terms of finish. Why the Revell kit? when it gets hammered on the forums? Well, the main reason if honest, is that it will fit with a current F1 LED lit display cabinet and I will be attempting to set it in an ocean diorama. So the 1/535 suits this purpose and I don't care that the underwater part of the hull is shaped like a bath tub. The Tamiya and Trumpeter kits of much higher detail but bigger scale would be too big to fit in the case... and finally, I feel like a challenge! which I may regret over time! To achieve this I'm trying the following: Getting PE at 1/500 from Toms model works Redoing all the "crucifix" 50 cals to PE Adding detail in the hull to reflect raised panel lines and rivets Real chain on anchors, not the gator teeth casting that's there at the mo, with rebored anchor Adding PE to superstructure and creating detail regarding portholes / deck items New radar and catapult PE items Added railing Reboring Smoke Stacks to have grill structures Reboring mooring chain cavity at the bow end Before starting properly, I'm wondering if anyone with ship building experience has any thoughts on whether this is a fool's errand or achievable? I've done a good bit of car and plane modelling but never ships. Also, the real parts that has me stumped are the double bofors guns. The moulds are off the chart bad , looking like legs sticking out of a box. Considering scratch building and then doing a cast resin to replicate.. don't want to blow the budget on 3d printing and there's nothing commercially available in that scale. So any pointers there would be appreciated. Anyway wish me luck and nice to join the community here.
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