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  1. Finally made a start, after getting the work area cosy. Good to read through the instructions, as recommended, as found a few errors in the bulkhead and other pieces indentification. Also found the bulkheads were a little loose in the keel piece. One of the many videos I've watched suggested Lego blocks for a perfect right angle. And they have worked a treat. False deck just gone on. Again, from watching many videos I wont be putting the stern and bow posts, or keel piece until first planking complete. Im sure there are many mistakes already, but I'm quite happy, so far, for this first attempt.
  2. Well today is box opening day, I have peeked a few times thought. Lol. I chose this Amati Mayflower model because of wood work and overall look. Many of the Mayflowers I looked at are Mayflower ll, they seem to have a lot of colours on them, for me its a bit too flashy for my likes. I dont see any other Amati Mayflowers logs so this will be my attempt to build one. It is so good to know if I run into any problems MSW will have the answers, slowly and I mean slowly getting to know my computer and how it work here on MSW.. Thanks ever so much !!!!!! Well got to go set things up for the build wish me luck lol ,one thing I noticed was that there was two bags full of dead eyes LOL the fun never stops . This hobby is so much fun ,does everyone get excited on box opening day then build days then finishing day, then NEW kit day lol 😆 Again thanks MSW for steering me in the right direction so glad to be a small part, see you buddy's got ships to build
  3. Greetings all, Starting to build Revenge from Amati. Several reviews are available, so I won't describe the kit content but rather go right away to my build log. Overall, great kit, excellent documentation and well printed plans. I'm not a fan of the printed decorations. Not sure now how to handle it later. Either paint myself or, most likely, use commercial inlays. I'm not there yet so I will see later. NOTE: don't hesitate to comment. Will take suggestions and critics alike. That's the only way to learn. The dry fit was excellent. Frames 1-4 were a little loose, so I use the inserts 17, 18, 19 as spacer as well as the decks to glue everything together.
  4. Well here we go - after a long hiatus (and a half dozen or so planes, trains, & automobiles) I'm back in the shipyard with the HMS Pegasus. I won't spend any time on the history, etc - since Victory's Pegasus is pretty prominent throughout the forum. However, I will add a little background why she's my current project. I have four adult children (3 girls and boy) and three ships to go around. So I let the youngest pick out what she she wanted to be built for her. Nice choice kiddo. As with my previous builds, I tend to mix somewhere between 70% accuracy and 30% artistic licensed - which will be the case with the Pegasus as well. Meanwhile, I'll be leaning pretty heavily on Blue Ensign's build (which I believe sets a benchmark for Pegasus..es... Pegasi? in terms of accuracy) as well as Danny Vadas' spectacular work on the Vulture. As always - I thank you all in advance for your encouragement and support. It's good to be back. Here's the typical start to the build. I've gone ahead and added the rabbet even though the plans say it's unnecessary. As I've perused other builds, it looks like it's probably going to come in handy.
  5. At last the waiting is over for me, my new workshop is ready, my last build complete, the corner of the dinning room and the table has been returned to my long suffering Wife, so a fresh start all round . I have watched @hof00@ted99 @rvchima and @Joe100 builds and comments now its my turn LOL So let the fun begin
  6. Time to tackle the Bismarck. I'll start with a version of the traditional "what's in the box?" You can see the finished model on the box as well as two very detailed instruction books with color pictures. Example of detail page shown. The hull and deck are wood, but much of the superstructure is built from plastic parts -- I've shown a sample of how they are packaged (in individual clear plastic envelopes). There probably isn't another material that would be feasible. The box says that there are "2,266 photoetched parts" -- so this will take a while. I don't know if that count includes the plastic parts and it's just sloppy box legend drafting, but there are a lot of plastic parts. The usual things are in the kit: wood strip, photo-etched brass, and laser-cut sheets. Those, interestingly, appear to be made of plywood (I haven't pulled any out of the box yet). That's a shift from other Amati models in the Victory series that I have built that used MDF for the hull and frames. This will also be the longest model I have built at 132 cm. Regards, David
  7. 1:22 Venetian Gondola Amati Catalogue # 571 Available from Amati for around €105 The gondola is a traditional, flat-bottomed Venetian rowing boat, well suited to the conditions of the Venetian lagoon. It is typically propelled by a gondolier, who uses a rowing oar, which is not fastened to the hull, in a sculling manner, and also acts as the rudder. Today's gondolas are up to 11 m long and 1.6 m wide, with a mass of around 350 kg. They are made of 280 hand-made pieces using eight types of wood (lime, oak, mahogany, walnut, cherry, fir, larch and elm). The process takes about two months; in 2013, the cost of a gondola was about 38,000 euros. The oar or rèmo, is held in an oarlock known as a fórcola. The fórcola is of a complicated shape, allowing several positions of the oar for slow forward rowing, powerful forward rowing, turning, slowing down, rowing backwards, and stopping. The ornament on the front of the boat is called the fèrro (meaning iron) and can be made from brass, stainless steel, or aluminium. It serves as decoration and as counterweight for the gondolier standing near the stern. The gondola has existed in Venice since the 11th century, being first mentioned by name in 1094. It is estimated that there were eight to ten thousand gondolas during the 17th and 18th century, but there are only around four hundred in active service today, with virtually all of them used for hire by tourists. The uniqueness of the gondola includes its being asymmetrical along the length, making the single-oar propulsion more efficient. For centuries, the gondola was a major means of transportation and the most common watercraft within Venice. In modern times, the boats still do have a role in public transport in the city, serving as traghetti (small ferries) over the Grand Canal operated by two oarsmen. The kit This is quite a new kit from Amati, and who better to realise a scale model of a Gondola, than an Italian company. This particular subject appears to represent a modern Gondola, which is still no bad thing as I’ve seen a lot of these myself and they are beautiful vessels. This isn’t the first Gondola released by Amati; they did a model of an 1882 vessel (#1600), with a covered passenger section, which was 1:20 scale and is now unavailable. Original Amati Gondola kit The new kit is a very different model. As is always the case, this kit is packaged into an attractive and high quality, glossy box, with a single photo of the finished Gondola on the lid, and a couple of other finished views on the sides. The vessel is finished in its famous satin black, and the artwork design reflects this. Despite the box’s depth, the actual components don’t occupy too much space, with a few packets of flat sheet parts included, plus a single, large plan, manual etc. We’ll look at these parts now. You could say that this model is very much a plank-on-frame (POF) build, with a series of ‘C’ frames which sit upon a flat, ply floor, sheathed initially with single-piece timber sides. It’s quite a simple approach to building but allows the model to be fitted out and furnished easily, whilst also displaying elements of the hollow hull. The model also needs to have its interior painted black during different phases of the build, due to those areas still being within eyesight when finished. Several thin ply sheets are provided which hold the parts for the frames, footboards, strakes etc. Here you see the frames sheet, with side elements. A little later, you can see a number of selected manual pages, so you’ll get a better idea of construction. Incidentally, the single plan sheet isn’t what you use for main construction guide. The model is mostly don’t via the manual photos, with the plan only really giving an idea of the finished model. This ply sheet contains parts for the oar, display stand, and some visible interior bulkheads. Also visible are the seats. These will be finished with a material which looks like crushed red velvet. On these two ply sheets, you can clearly see the asymmetrical floor of the gondola with engraved positions for the frames, and also side tabs which will key into the single-piece sides, ensuring that alignment is perfect. More turtle deck parts can be seen here, as long as the tabbed floor sections which slot into the frames. Here you can see the Gondola’s side panels with the tabs that correspond with the flat, ply vessel bottom. That was the last of the flat timber sheets, but included is a large sheet of steel photo-etch. This carries the prow and stern shapes, plus two ornamental strakes which lie down each side of the hull. A reasonably sized sheet of material is included which represents the crushed red velvet of the Gondola interior, as well as for the seat furnishings. Lastly, a single length of dowel is included which is for the oar construction, a cast metal lamp, and the oarlock in grey resin. Instructions As I’ve already stated, the model is mostly built using just the stages from the manual, and not the plan sheet. All photos and instructional text are nice and clear and describe in good detail, exactly what the modeller must do at each stage. Photography is excellent and every picture is perfect reference for your build. Conclusion When I came into the hobby around 22yrs ago, the original Amati Gondola was a kit I always coveted, having a copy of their catalogue. For whatever reason, I missed out on that kit and eventually forgot about. Being sent this new kit to review has more than made up for that as this look a beautiful and beautifully simple model to build, but one that’s very attractive. I love watching the Gondolas when I visit Venice, and this model very much captures the evocative appeal of this type of vessel. Something a little mysterious. Maybe I’ve been watching too many old films too! Amati’s Gondola is also a very affordable kit that offers plenty for the builder. As a modeller of primarily warships, this is the sort of side project that I very much enjoy, and as soon as the opportunity presents, I will open a build log for this. My sincere thanks to Amati for sending this kit for review here on Model Ship World. To buy directly, click the link at the top of this article, or visit your local Amati dealer.
  8. This is not so much a build log from the start as a log for a restart from where I left off ,I had a full build log back on the old forums before the great server crash's in 2013 , I really didn't feel like rebuilding it after the 2nd crash and losing it all again .so I kind of just left it! ,after buying the corel Victory cross section and getting irked at it I decided I restart Pegasus and finally finish her. There isn't anything early on in the build that's different from other Pegasus builds other than I had to build a new Stem because the kit one shattered , partition for the fo'c'sle, added the missing sweep ports ,bought new turned brass guns/swivel guns and started the coppering. I've removed the copper because after 3 moves in 2 1/2 years a couple of years ago the original plates are MIA and I'd made a few mistakes so I'm ordering replacements and re-doing it! , I also had and have plans to add missing parts with the help of David Antscherl's Swan Class books , so things like gangwalk's , billboards and linings etc Richard
  9. After almost completing Lady Isabelle, by Chris from Vanguard Models I knew I wanted to do another model by Chris. Lady Isabelle created plenty of challenges for a newbie yet it was gratifying to be successful and learn new skills at the same time. I have yet to complete the rigging on Lady Isabelle. Having never done any rigging it is all new. The challenge I have is that I only have complete use of one arm, I have severed the motor nerve for my right bicep so I am unable to lift my right arm. I can put in place on a chair arm or table and then have limited use of my right hand. The challenge is not being able to elevate the arm or hand so tying knots or doing seizing is a one handed process, even with the use of a third hand clamp it is very difficult. So far after 40 hours of work I have gotten two blocks seized and one hank completed. It is exhausting mentally to do it. So I decided to do another boat and work on the rigging for just two hours a day, with the hope of eventually getting it the masts at least rigged. I decided to do the Fifie because it is 1/30 scale and hope that rigging will be easier with the bigger scale. We shall see. Because there are some great build logs for Fifie by DSmith20639, PJG, Tim Moore, and Ken I will not show the box or parts. However, I will echo their sentiments that Chris Watton is a great designer of boat models. I will concentrate on showing how I have been able with my physical limitations to complete some tasks which may be helpful to other newbies who have not yet gained the skills of the awesome model makers on this site. The first pictures below show the keel clamp I have made. It Is able to hold a long keel. it can rotate forward and back ward as well as left and right. It is essential to me being able to reach things with both hands simultaneously. It also shows the aluminum quarter rounds that I use to make sure the bulkheads are perfectly square. I have 4 of them to completely lock the bulkhead square. I also have them in 1/2", 3/4", 1", sizes in lengths of 2" and 4" so that they can be used on smaller scale models, like Lady Isabelle and larger scale models like Fifie. After almost completing Lady Isabelle, by Chris from Vanguard Models I knew I wanted to do another model by Chris. Lady Isabelle created plenty of challenges for a newbie yet it was gratifying to be successful and learn new skills at the same time. I have yet to complete the rigging on Lady Isabelle. Having never done any rigging it is all new. The challenge I have is that I only have complete use of one arm, I have severed the motor nerve for my right bicep so I am unable to lift my right arm. I can put in place on a chair arm or table and then have limited use of my right hand. The challenge is not being able to elevate the arm or hand so tying knots or doing seizing is a one handed process, even with the use of a third hand clamp it is very difficult. So far after 40 hours of work I have gotten two blocks seized and one hank completed. It is exhausting mentally to do it. So I decided to do another boat and work on the rigging for just two hours a day, with the hope of eventually getting it the masts at least rigged. I decided to do the Fifie because it is 1/30 scale and hope that rigging will be easier with the bigger scale. We shall see. Because there are some great build logs for Fifie by DSmith20639, PJG, Tim Moore, and Ken I will not show the box or parts. However, I will echo their sentiments that Chris Watton is a great designer of boat models. I will concentrate on showing how I have been able with my physical limitations to complete some tasks which may be helpful to other newbies who have not yet gained the skills of the awesome model makers
  10. My four year build log has alas fallen victim to the latest system upgrade, and like the ship she represents is now presumed lost, as Pegasus was in 1777. To re-instate all the information contained within the orginal log which ran for over 100 pages is a bit of an ask but where I can pick up the information quickly I will include it in this replacement log with priority being given to specific aspects where I have modified the basic kit, to produce the model which is now allbut finished. My log which was first posted in 2013 lacked much of the earlier stages of the build which had been going since 2010, and this revision will include aspects of the earlier build stages which may assist those embarking on a new Swan build adventure. I would like to thank all those members who have shown interest in my build over the past four years, and for the many appreciative comments and 'likes' I received. I still can't believe that over 257,000 visits were made to the log, but it is nice to think that it was of use to the membership. Also thank you to those who have messaged me with kind words about the loss of the original log, and with offers of help. Hopefully this revised version, risen from the ashes, will continue to provide useful information to the membership, particularly those involved with Swan Class Sloops. B.E. 5th March 2017
  11. Ahoy all! It has been a number of years since I have posted here, and for good reason. We've a new addition to the family, and both he and my eldest have been the focus of my attention and energy. In our last home reorganizing I was able to secure myself a large dining table in our second living room to use as my "miniatures workshop". Finally, onto the build, with one final preface: I am a novice, but keen to improve. I'd appreciate any and all feedback. I'm as far as the first planking but have photos of prior steps. I will upload a group of pictures and explain as best as I can.
  12. Next project is the Amati Titanic. This is a museum quality model. The kit is very good quality. Will build into a very nice model of the Titanic. The instructions are very good. There is an 40 page colour booklet to go with the 10 pages of written instructions, which are very extensive. Plus there are 8 plan sheets. The down sides are the way the second planking of the hull needs to be cut from two sheets of ply using paper templets. The colour card cut outs to represent the windows and doors on the various cabin parts. Also the plastic benches are a let down. I will however replace all the card and benches with photo etch from Minibrass. I will start the build by cutting all the second planking parts out. I will then plank the decks before starting to put the kit together. I am unsure with the discrepancy with the 6 bulkheads. I have the template, but when I lay the bulkheads on it they are to small if I increase the size and to large a fit if I decrease the size. Will have to put them in place loose and see how the first planking sits on them. Have started by cutting the second planking out.
  13. Hello, I was absolutely amazed by Lady Nelson build video "in motion" and I wanted this model kit for a long time now. I guess that it took me way too long to buy this kit myself so I got it as a gift Time for a new adventure! (the background is... another "model" that I am building as well)
  14. I’m coming at this build log late. I’ve progressed a lot since these were taken, but I’m not done yet. Rather than recap in detail, I would like to post these pics of Pegasus at various spots that take me up to where I am now and I’ll pick up the build log there. Bulkheads on. Planking the gun deck. Gun deck completed. Starting the details. Pumps. Put rust detail around them. First layer of planking. Port side first layer done. First layer sanded. Second layer done and in homemade clamp. Putting gun port planks on. Gingerbread. Started to paint. Stern gallery attached. Copper plate on. Another view of copper. Gun jig I made. Gun tackle in. More deck furniture. Ship’s bell. Railing before Railing after painting and polywipe. Gold gingerbread on stern. Gingerbread on stbd stern window. This catches me up to my build. I am building a stand at the moment. Once it is complete, I will continue with the log. Jason
  15. Hello all! After reading through several posts and build logs, I decided to start my modeling adventure with the Lady Nelson. I have no carpentry/wood-working experience or with many of the very practical things that go into ship modeling, but I do look forward to this craft which so many seem to have found stimulating as well as satisfying. I think my first encounter with ship modeling was through my high school band director 20 years ago, and if I’m not mistaken, his first model was the HMS Victory. Now that I have started reading through build logs and such, I am mightily curious which model kit he started with and what scale he completed! Incidentally, he also got me started reading both C.S. Forester and Patrick O’Brian, so this interest in nautical history and ship modeling has been a little ambition of mine for a long time, which I am finally starting to make good on. Reading many of the logs available on the Lady Nelson, so many folks have made different improvements along the way to the kit, and I have been having this little debate in my head as to what I might improve and whether or not I will work to elevate the model in a particular way or in several ways. In one sense, there is just the hurdle of the first build (and planking!) to surmount, and then adding various bits to the model can seem daunting when I’m not even so sure that my bulkheads are installed properly! I also understand the need to plan ahead for those improvements should I decide to make them. But all in all, I have decided to try and have fun, take on the problems as they come and let the next step be the next step. I’ll post some of my initial issues and current progress soon. Cheers!
  16. I hope there are no limits on the number of build logs one can have open at any particular time! I'm trying to make more bench space to get back to may 'main project' - a scratch-built model of L'Invention 1799 based on G. Delacroix's amazing ANCRE monograph. Unfortunately, I have a problem with starting models and not always finishing them directly. So lately it had been pointed out to me, by the resident space allocator, that I don't need more space, I just need to finish a few projects to reclaim the space I need. I concede that this is a truth. There are at least two models, well along that could / should be finished. Once done a good deal of space will open up again. This is a picture of the two as they sat a few days ago: In the back is the Corel model of La Couronne that I purchased in 2011 and started in 2020. In the foreground is the Amati model of the 1753 xebec Sciabecco; purchased and started in 2015. With the help of this log, I hope to make some steady progress and finish the Sciabecco in tandem with my Santos-Dumont 14bis airplane kit build and my Santos-Dumont No18 Hydroplane scratch build project. Big hopes, but I figure something a retired person can achieve. Unfortunately, I don't have any photographs of the early stages of the Sciabecco build so I will try to provide some background in a written form. I believe the key aspects wood be that The plywood keel assembly was replaced with one made of cherry so that the ply's in the stem and stern would not be visible when finished The lower deck was extended / planked past the gratings on the upper deck The gratings were glued to the false deck prior to planking and then sanded flush with the deck. The instructions call for the gratings to be added on top of the deck planking. The large stern grating is made from cherry (this was my first try at making my own grating) and replaces a plastic grating that had spaces too large for the model. Over the last couple of days I have been adding the quick stuff to the bulwarks and getting this material painted to match the interior paint. The first layer of planking was pretty well done, so it shouldn't take much time to prep the model for the second layer. It may get up to 50 degrees (F) here tomorrow - that would be just fine to sit out back for a while and smooth out the hull. At some point I'll open a log for La Couronne - it will be great to get that one done also. I really like the rigging of that time period.
  17. 'On the shoulders of giants...' I have to say that the build logs here for HMS Fly/Pegasus have been an inspiration to me on how to navigate my first true 'scale' ship. Particular thanks go to Blue Ensign for posting his Pegasus build... TWICE... after the great crash. I received the kit a few weeks ago but was torn between my 'one at a time' philosophy of boats under construction. That has now changed and I'm going to make a slow start (and probably build) of this excellent kit. In December 2022 I started building HMS Golden star and am using it to resurrect some woodworking skills not used since building Kiel-Kraft balsa spitfires, Fokker triplanes and Stukas back when my age was a single digit (I'm now over halfway to 3 digits!). The Golden Star is progressing but am a little 'hung up' on the fact that its not a true scale model of any particular ship, but as a starter in this hobby it serves its purpose as an excellent training build. There is yet another build on the go of a scratch built HMS Victory but I needed to get retrained hence the current builds. The current plan (and this may and probably will change) is to build it with full cabins at the rear (again thanks Blue Ensign), leave the hull planked (in Boxwood) unpainted and not coppered. Guns and carriages will be changed to Syren, boat kits will be added and the thought of dinner by candlelight in the Captains cabin is very tempting (flickering LED lights). So after breaking etiquette by not showing the 'opening the box' series of photos in my Star build here they are... The box And inside.... Lots of plans which I haven't looked at yet... Brass photoetch....nice.... (cant be as hard to assemble as a 1/24 scale Martin Baker ejection seat in PE can it?) Hours of fun here.... I've got wood.... and finally the 4 MDF sheets. I think I will spend the evening dry fitting the hull and building the cradle, although a 'scale' slipway will be created for display purposes (which I probably wont need for a few years!). Avast me hearties!!!!!!!!
  18. Well it’s been too long… hello all who are interested …this will technically be my second build…however my last build (Hms Bounty) very sadly 😢…suffered a catastrophic accident and now no longer exists…no matter…I will build another better one…I learned a lot on my last build and intend to reach for higher levels of craftsmanship in the future on another bounty, but in the meantime while I considered which one to buy. I started work on this little Bireme. I’ve been at it for about 2 months now, but from this point hopefully I’ll post smaller more regular posts… so, like several other past logs I’ve read, I’ve noticed the usual disappointments. The instructions are very vague, and some of the laser cutout pieces are inaccurate. However, the fun of model ship building is sometimes, problem-solving…so let’s do this. at a snails pace, I added one bulkhead each day, obsessing over, trying to make it as square as possible. I end up being mostly satisfied with results, but I think next time, I could probably find tool that would do a better and easier job. trying to fix some of the inaccurate frames… ended up being quite happy with my efforts… The admiral took a photo of me using some tracing paper to trace off the plans for the stern cut out section… the balsa that is essential to complete this kit is not included. This is another criticism I have of this kit many parts that you need to finish simply aren’t inside the kit. Anyway…went out and have got a nice stash for my future balsa needs a lot of the frames will still be quite visible when the model is finished…so I ordered some mahogany strips to cover up exposed areas…stern section all smooth and shaped. Planked and sanded the inferior deck. Thought long and hard about whether or not to simulate tree nails. Did research on whether they where historically accurate…apparently a resounding yes…did a few test samples…I used toothpicks as the tree nails… they seem less visible than what I imagined…however I still think they will add some nice details…so I’m going to go ahead with tree nails… Will probably do tree nails on the walnut hull planking also… in the process of doing the garboard plank… and that is where I’m up to…please let me know if there are any suggestions or pieces of advice
  19. 1:20 Grand Banks Model – Heritage 46 Amati Catalogue # 1607 Available from Amati for around €513 Grand Banks History The boatyard has its origins in Hong Kong, where it began building custom wooden sailing and motorboats in 1956, as American Marine. The Spray, a 36- foot -long displacement vessel, was designed and built in 1963 as a prototype trawler yacht. This new, robust, and visually pleasing type of boat was so successful that the company founders decided to put the vessel into production. Series production began in 1965, for the first time under the name Grand Banks, and the different models were each designated according to their length in feet. In 1968 the company moved to Singapore and since 1973, trawler yachts have been made of glass fibre reinforced plastic. The success of Grand Banks led to competing shipyards also beginning to mass-produce trawler yachts in the 1970s. Photo from boats.com The spacious living quarters aboard the Grand Banks 46 Classic provide ample room for comfortable long-range cruising. With top speed exceeding 20 knots, the 46CL is an ideal yacht to get you quickly to your favourite cruising destination. Safety and reliability are, of course, a built-in Grand Banks tradition. Wide walk-around decks, aft cockpit, and well-equipped steering and navigation stations both on the flybridge and in the salon are all part of the package. There are countless attributes of a Grand Banks that contribute to its reputation as one of the most reliable, high-quality yachts designed and built for cruising. The kit This Amati Grand Banks kit release is packaged into a highly attractive box with a glossy lid that depicts the completed model, including some scrap detail views. The scale of this one is a crumping 1:20! In real terms, that equates to a finished model which will be around This box appears to be the same size, or thereabouts, as the HS Vanguard and Orient Express kits, but possibly a little deeper. In fact, the kid itself doesn’t extend to the bottom of the box! One thing you’ll notice on the lid of this very heavy box is that the hull in this release is made from ‘resin’, or to be more accurate, glass-fibre resin. The large, single-piece hull is made from white resin and has a satin, slightly chalky but very smooth appearance. One thing I need to say here is that this model CAN be fitted out for RC and Amati sell an additional kit that can be used with this model. Ok, back to the contents. This is another of those kits where I don’t seem to be able to get everything back into the box once I’m done. Frustrating! The inner box has an integral lid which gives the box a load of rigidity as well as stopping anything easily piercing through the lid, into the contents. Lid off, and the first thing to be seen is an envelope with the manual and plans, with sheets of enveloped timber underneath. For the purpose of this article, I’ll tackle the contents in a different order. Many key constructional areas are laser-cut in a very nice quality birch ply. No parts numbers are shown on these sheets, and you need to cross match the sheet with the pictorial parts sheet that’s included. Of course, each sheet is numbered to identify it. Here you can see parts that will build up to create the entire superstructure. If you intend to make this RC, this whole area will lift out to provide access to the motor and servos/linkages below decks. Having looked through the instructions for quite a while, I do think that if you are capable, sheathing the entire superstructure in thin, white plasticard sheet, such as Evergreen, would produce a stunning finish. Anyway, that’s just me thinking out loud. Whilst the hull is glass-fibre, there are some thin ply strakes which fit below the gunwale. These can be seen in the two sheets at the top of this photo. There is some darker laser marking on some parts, but thankfully the parts aren’t degraded because of it, and some light sanding will remove it. Two sheets are cut from 1mm mahogany, and contain many cabin interior parts, plus window frames etc. The grain on these parts, in thinner areas, will be a little more fragile, so some kid gloves will be needed to handle them. It’s a case of not removing parts from sheets until they are needed. Of course, the exterior of the superstructure will need to be skinned, and these parts are for that purpose. Going back to possibly using styrene sheet to skin the model, you could in theory, use these as templates for doing just that. However, that’s not what’s intended here. Some parts are included on these two 3mm sheets, manufactured again in mahogany. These include more substantial parts, such as the multipart gunwales and ornamental scroll rails etc. The mahogany here is a little lighter and I think a staining varnish would be nice here to give the parts a deep, rich colour. A small cradle is supplied for the hull, and not the large stand shown on the box lid. This cradle is a simple MDF affair. Personally, if you are spending £500 on a kit like this, I’d look at buying/building a nicer mounting solution to this one. The smaller sheet contains parts for the dinghy/launch. There is a small amount of MDF in this kit. Here, the parts are for superstructure. A little area of familiarity is the inclusion of wood strip for various things, such as framing, deck planking etc. There is also a quantity of brass rod too. The two boxes supplied here are found at the bow and stern of the hull when packed. One of these supplies all the pre-shaped, chromed rails, and they are superb. These are quite complicated shapes and I don’t see any deformation etc. I really do suggest you remove this box to a safe place, right up until you need to fit them. Damaging these would be annoying. The other box contains a suite of various seating parts. The bases are cast in a matte white resin, and the seating is beige faux leather. All are very nicely made. A smaller box is included, containing the boat’s dinghy, cast in the same matte white resin. This of course will be fitted out with various mahogany parts etc. Residing in the boat’s hull are two packs of fittings. This first one contains two PE parts frets, some timber section, the boats props, wheel, rigging blocks, cleats etc. The second fittings box contains trim tape, brass ferrules, rigging cord, plastic grating, brass pins etc. An envelope contains a steel PE fret due to the nature of the parts on there, such as the grilles on the side of the superstructure. In this thickness, steel isn’t quite as flexible as brass, therefore not as easy to damage in key areas. There is also acetate in this package, for the various cabin windows. I think the cloth is perhaps for the cabin curtains. The last envelope contains a set of plans, full colour instruction manual, written notes and colour-printed sheets that have details for the parquet floor, flag, rugs, maps, charts, and even magazines for the cabin tables! Here a number of selected images from the manual. Conclusion On the box, Amati say that this is an ‘easy to build model’. Ok, everything is relative. Anything is as easy as you want to make it, but it’s the result which will define the effort you put in. This is by no means a beginner kit, but the construction of the kit, the beautiful fittings, chromed rails and small details, will make this an enormously enjoyable project to build, and if you’re like me, a very welcome change from regular masted, wooden ships. The plans and manual are also excellent and show all aspects of construction extremely well. It could be said that this isn’t a cheap kit, but I think it’s very reasonable for what you get, including that superb glass-fibre hull. There’s very little you can get wrong with this if you work objectively, and of course, it will make a really unique large shelf display model. If you’ve been thinking of taking the plunge with this, or in need of something a little different, I’d most definitely recommend Amati’s Grand Banks Heritage 46. My sincere thanks to Amati for sending out this kit for review on Model Ship World. To buy this kit direct, click the link at the top of the article, or head over to your local Amati distributor.
  20. Welcome to my first building log! Over a year ago i started building Lady Nelson from Amati. It is my second attempt to build wooden ship. Bit late but anyway I decided to share building progress with You. Unfortunately I haven't documented early stages of construction. First photos I made below. The hull is ready and painted. I like detail so first of them that I have made to this stage: rudder Maciek
  21. Today I was supposed to go to work but it was raining, so I decided to do a kit opening page for my new log, the Pegasus. The contents of the kit look really good, as I put things away , and get ready to build. My keel is made of plywood, not mdf. Must be an older kit, I assume. I dont know much about the Pegasus, but she sank in Canada in 1777, a little over a year after she was launched. So putting things away, the keel fell out of the box, lol, so I decided to make the temporary stand, and dry fit everything. It went together really well. It does come with a lot of plans and books of understandable instructions. I dry fitted all the bulkheads and got all the keel parts ready. So tomorrow, I will start glueing and beveling the bulkheads, and also the four pairs of plank termination patterns. Then I will see what I need to do next. It is so helpful to know that if I run into problems, this is the place to be to get all the help I need here. Thanks so much for watching. Take care my friends. Bob M.
  22. Besides my first ever wooden build, the Goletta Elisabeth and a little side projekct, the Optimist Dinghy I decided to go for the Amati Endeavour 1:80 as my first bigger and more advanced model. I somehow really like the elegance and sporty look of those J-Class ships. Kit was openend and wow this is a whole different story than those other two kits I did. This will be way more difficult and time consuming, but I am on fire for it so checked out the instructions and plans and started constructing the hull right away. First step was to glue the two kiel parts plane together and adding the frames. Numbered them before and prechecked if they fit well. Needed some sanding first with some parts. To make sure to have them in a right angle to the kiel I and clamp them I constructed two rectangles out of some spare wood which worked out well. Next step was adding the rear and bow reinforcements and one reinforcement in the middle. Rubber bands did their job here. Net up adding the first deck and fixing it with the provided nails and again lots of rubber bands. Was a little bit tricky since the deck slightly bends to the right and left. Thats it for now. Net up is sanding of the frames, bow and rear parts to make the first layer of planks fit right. Will probably take some time.
  23. I am starting a build of the Mississippi River Steamboat Robert E Lee. This is something that I don't know much about, and I would appreciate any advice. The kit is by Amati, and the photo of the box top shows the completed model. I have built several Amati kits and know that their attention to detail is superb, so I am confident that this will build up into a beautiful model. There are a lot of build logs of this kit on MSW and a lot more of other Mississippi riverboats, so I will forego the history lesson and post links to the other build logs. This will help me find them in the near future when I am trying to figure out some complicated assembly. Please let me know if I missed your build. Mississippi Riverboat Builds on MSW Robert E. Lee Steamboat by John Ruy - FINISHED - Bluejacket Shipcrafters - 3/32” to 1’ scale 1:128 Beautiful build, vintage kit, good history and discussion. Robert E Lee by rodgerdodger - FINISHED - Amati Beautiful build, ~7 months Robert E Lee by Script - FINISHED - Amati - 1/160 Mississipi Riverboat Beautiful build, incomplete log after system crash Robert E Lee by lazyguy - Scientific - scale 1/8" = 1.45’ Vintage kit finished after 27 years!! Robert E Lee by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Constructo Plank-on-bulkhead hull, hand-built stairs, natural finish, 4 months Robert E Lee steamboat by bcochran - Pyro - 1/163 Vintage plastic model (1961), lots of historical information King of the Mississippi by john46 - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - scale 1:80 Beautiful build, long, detailed log, modeler passed away suddenly when nearly complete Robert E Lee by Dan Evans - Amati - 1:150 Incomplete
  24. The Fifie is a design of sailing boats that was a traditional fishing vessel used by Scottish fishermen from the 1850’s until well into the 1900’s. Their vertical stem and stern, long straight keel and wide beam made the Fifies very stable in the water. In the 1900’s many were converted to motorized craft. As and aside, this model will be the longest boat on my shelf when I am finished (at 27.5” long by 18.5” tall and 9.1” wide). As I progress in my boat building hobby, I am beginning to wonder where I will put all the boats I have built, and plan to build. I would like to know if you people are displaying all of your boats? I’m thinking my early creations will end up in a box in a closet, and my latest will be placed - . . . I don’t know where! . . . since I am running out of shelf space. The previous models are collecting dust, and I would like to continue building for many more years. I guess I will have to either buy enclosures or learn to build them. Still, the question stands - as to where I put them. Since the Fifie is larger than my previous boats, I need to determine my storage/display strategy very soon. I would like to know what all of you are doing with your boats! Back to the subject: the Kit itself looks like a quality set of components and instructions (so far).
  25. Well its time for a new build now that ENDEAVOUR is ostensibly complete. My next choice of kit still had to have an Australian flavour so I chose the BOUNTY. Choosing which BOUNTY to buld came down to what I could afford and what was available. I considered the Artesania version but was not keen paying for a single sided planking and open side with interior. I also stumbled upon a sale for Amarti BOUNTY's through Premier Models in the UK so I ordered one and it arrived safe and sound. I was surprised on opening the box at the difference in quality between the Artesania and Amarti kits. The Amarti materials appear and feel much better quality and the use of timber rather than ply for the keel, stem and stern posts, channels etc means one don't have t find a way to mask exposed ply ends. The ply stock itself also appears better quality with far les tear-our/delamination that the artesania material did. I also like the Amarti rigging (blocks, deadheyes, hearts, and parrels parts as these too are timber and not laser cut ply. I also like the Amarti threads even though I would prefer scale rope but it appears that this build may be a commission and will be an out of the box build. So lets get to work: FRAMING: Thank heavens for DAVOSHIPMODELLER on YouTube. He has a playlist for the construction of the Amarti BOUNTY and the identification of kit issues starts at the pre-framing stage. The first big is the location of the Mizzen and the implication that notching the false keel has with the location of Frame 13. The most effective solution is to notch out Fame 13 and then adjust the length of the Mizzen mast down the track. The other main issue is the shape of the false keel stem support and the reinforcing parts on either side. They do not match the plan nor the shape of the laser cut timber stem. Best to fix now before any assembly take place. Other changes made also follow the DAVOSHIPMODLLER experience including cutting out sections in the frames between Frame 11 and 13 and also Frame 14 and 16 to permit planked decks to be installed should one wish to have open hatched on the main deck.
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