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Found 9 results

  1. I decided to take a break from the HMS Snake and do something more straight forward with no kit bashing. I initially bought the Falconet kit 9th century Viking ship but I plowed through that in less than a month. I have been wanting to buy the Avos since it came out so I decided this would be a good time. By the time my Avos is done Chris Watton might have finished developing the HMS Sphinx and My Snake will never get finished. 😆 I just post a picture of the box for now, I don't plan on covering all the contents in the box as there is a thorough review buy James H.
  2. I started this build some time in May and currently I'm in the process of shaping yards. I'll be posting pictures and comment starting with the very beginning and hopefully I'll catch up to the build's current state. This is the model of Russian tender named "Avos". As far as I know this word only exists in Russian language and describes a world view when you don't know the outcome but hope for the best, citing Wikipedia: The Russian avos' (Russian: русское авось) describes a philosophy of behavior, or attitude, of a person who ignores possible problems or hassles and, at the same time, expects or hopes for no negative results or consequences. It is an attitude that treats life as unpredictable and holds that the best one can do is count on luck. This ship is well know in Russia because of "Juno and Avos" rock opera that was performed for the first time in 1981. It tells the story of a tragic love between Russian explorer Nikolai Rezanov and a daughter of the governor of Spanish California. "Avos" was a tender built in Novoarkhangelsk (present Sitka, Alaska) in Russian America in 1806. She was manned by a crew of 12 and was a part of an expedition to California headed by explorer Nikolai Rezanov that consisted of two ships, brigantine "Juno" and tender "Avos". They arrived in California in the same year, to get provisioning for starving Russian settlements in Alaska. During his stay in San Francisco, Rezanov met a 15-year old daughter of a Spanish governor Maria de la Concepcion Arguello. Maria fell in love with Rezanov and they got engaged. Unfortunately they could not get married because she was a Catholic and he belonged to the Eastern Orthodox Church. Rezanov had to obtain the Russian Emperor's permission to marry Maria. Promptly, he sailed back to Alaska and then to Okhotsk. From there he had to cross all of Russia east to west on horseback to get to St Petersburg. During this perilous trip he fell ill and died in Krasnoyarsk in 1807 at the age of 43. Maria did not believe the news of his death until 1842 when Sir George Simpson gave her a detailed account of Rezanov's death. She took a vow of silence and lived in a monastery in Monterey, California until her death in 1857. I was really excited about building a ship with such rich history. The kit is of the same great quality as all Master Korabel kits. Without further ado, here are my steps: 1. As always the first step is setting up the "skeleton" framework for planks. This kit is a plank-on-bulkhead type with two layers of planks. The interesting detail in this kit is that the whole frame is split horizontally by an HDF plate into two separate parts - top and bottom. First all bottom bulkhead and the center keel were installed into the HDF plate (which has asymetric notches so you'd never be able to mix up left and right bulkheads): 2. After all bulkheads were installed, I planked the first layer of the lower portion of the hull: 3. Next the upper section of the center keel need to be assembled along with the stern: 4. What I found really interesting about this build was that counter and taffrail were not glued to the stern. They were supposed to be shaped and assembled separately. Overal the counter and taffrail turned out to be the most difficult parts of the whole build. The first layer of counter split when I bent it, so I had to carefully reglue the sheet... 5. After that I went back to building up the bulkheads for the section of the hull above the HDF plate: 6. Once all bulkheads were installed (there were a lot of them!) the deck was glued. What I found interesting was that there was no subdeck on this model. The deck is a single sheet of maple veneer that is glued directly to the bulkheads. The inner bulwark installation was a breeze thanks to the guiding pins that were inserted into holes for gun tackles: 7. After the deck and the inner bulwarks were installed the hull was faired and planking began. Again, as with other Master Korabel kits it is a lot easier to plank using hot iron technique! (https://craftysailor.com/blogs/articles/planking-with-hot-iron😞
  3. Today I received the AVOS kit. It is the best version executed in pear. The wood looks fantastic and the laser cutting is So detailed. I am very excited about it. Not sure when I start with the build as I have still plenty of work on rigging my Royal Caroline but this could be escape from the ropes. It will be fun but also chalenge I guess. At this scale everything is so small!
  4. Here is a brief build log of this beautiful kit, which I began in late September - I'm now (4 December) approaching the rigging and sails, so on the home stretch. When finished, I'll put some pictures in the Gallery. There's plenty of excellent material in the Forum about this kit, so I won't go into too much detail - just to say what a marvel of miniature accuracy the laser cutting and photo etching of the parts are. Here are a few images of the early stages...
  5. This is my second build. The first was Albatros by Occre. 1. The reason I bought this ship was that I was intrigued after reading the review in MSW. It looked very small and rather difficult but I decided to live dangerously. The version I bought included the (sewn) sails but not the simulated nails on the veneer planking 2. I will organize my log by categorizing it into "phases"; these just follow my own "intuitive" sense of what groups of steps constitute a phase. Phase 1: Assembling the hull and first planking. The frames go into the main plate. I think the design here is brilliant. By telling us how much to bevel (through the use of lines drawn into the frames) and by placing asymmetrical notches in the main plate for the frames to attach, the design makes it much easier to avoid errors and the curvature is near perfect right from the start. And the resulting hull is really solid. Also I learnt from my mistakes only to use PVA glue in this phase. My small rotary Dremel was really helpful. The design of the first planking is also amazingly impressive. By building the curvature into the planks, by cutting it to the exact size, by placing notches in the frames for the first planks and finally by the use of holes for "temporary" nailing, the builders have thought through the process in a clever, thoughtful and user-friendly manner. Here are 2 pics, for this Phase, one for the framing and the second for the planking. Phase 2: Assembling the Stern frame, including upper keel frame, latrine etc. This is a very tricky phase and I made near-fatal errors at a couple of points. There are a lot of steps and one has to be really patient with dry fitting and not rushing to glue stuff without checking and rechecking. And, oh yes, numbering the pieces on both sides before cutting them from the plates is a must. And make sure you bevel on the side with the marked lines and attach the pieces with the bevel facing the direction specified. One error I made was following the direction to "wet" some pieces for 5 minutes per instruction manual before "hand curving" the piece to the desired shape. I had warned me against this but went ahead anyway. It worked for the pieces from the C plate (C1) but piece G1 ended up with a sharp curve after wetting and in addition the wood came apart in the middle (not split but the plywood just separated). On hindsight I should have either wet it for only a minute or so or used a clothe's iron. I think as the curvature is minimal one can get by without any help, just gluing it on with a clamp. But I glued the pieces and recurved it using clamps and it ended up fine. The second error was in step #24 when the pieces C1/H2 are attached to the rest of the stern assembly. Make sure you use this pic in the manual to guide you. I didn't insert it as far into the stern assembly as I should have. An hour later I found the error and luckily the glue had not fully set so I redid this step. See pic for end result. https://modelshipworld.com/clubs/?f1[0]=0 Phase 3: Adding the "ribs" i.e. the approximately 70 pieces that are glued to deck and are the basis for veneer planking etc. This phase looks simple but turned out to be trickier than I expected. As always it is a good idea to pencil in part#s before removing from the plate; also follow instructions re: penciling in lines connecting laser marks on BOTH sides of 16 of the ribs (8 on left, 8 on right--#s are B12,14,19,21,25,27,31,33)) ; you will also notice a laser engraved mark on one side of each of these 16 ribs; these are used later along with the pencilled on the same side to align ports inserts and finishing planking). On the non-engraved side, you have to place a notch where you drew a pencilled line in 8 places on each side (ie 8 on port, 8 on starboard). It is really important to look at pic #45 and realize that the notches are placed on the bow side of some of the ribs, and on the stern sides of some of the ribs. The notches are used to create holes that hold pins that then get used later (not sure how yet!) Phase 4: Deck Preparation. Again, a few major errors but with some helpful advice salvaged!....The tricky part here is installing the coamings on top and the coamings supports from below. These are used to support the deck furniture. I made the mistake of removing the inserts from the coamings; as a result when trying to sand and fit them into the holes, they would split; and I couldn't lower them to the .4 mm height below deck either as they would also split there, if they hadn't already; so I ended up patching them and gluing them flush with the deck, figuring that even if the furniture/fixture wasn't recessed below deck level, it would be ok--best I could do! Phase 5: Gluing Deck Also, on the reverse side of deck, be really really careful in gluing supports, bollards, etc to recognize that you need to be near-exact in their placement as they fit into notches in the keel below and if you are off by more than a tiny amount the deck will not be flush. Despite dry-fitting deck, I made this mistake, had to remove after gluing the deck (luckily I caught error in time) and redid everything after trimming some of the supports and the upper keel and rib supports as well. Phase 6: Gluing Inner Bulwark finishing Planking and Sanding: The Inner bulwark planking went well, with a few twists: a. I had to trim a little (<1mm) off the stern end on both side to fit the plank. I used the gunport cuts in the wood to align everything and that worked well..I was relieved that the tiny holes drilled in the prior step at each gunport all lined up with the pins set in the holes etc..Dont immerse plank in water..just dab a little wet cloth at the bow end for 10-15 seconds to help shape the plank to the hull. b. The drilling of the 3 holes in forelugs (actually just a redrilling) thru the plank split the plank in one place and I had to reglue the split part. looks ok but could have been much worse c The instructions on drilling holes #4.1 in the bulwark planking (2 on each side thru the sheaves/slits toward the stern end) are not really clear....u have to drill from the inside/deck side out thru the small slits/sheaves (<1mm bit) d...Finally, u have to sand the top of bulwark/plank using a sanding block across both sides to help even out the tops of the plank with the bulwarks Sanding is tedious. I used Durasand sticks ---worked much better than using paper directly or the cheap sticks I got thru Amazon. Not sure it is as good as it should be but I am ok with it. see pic. QUESTIONS:I decided that from time to time I'd stop and ask for advice on topics that I think of as I am building...here are the ones I have fro this week: 1. I have drill bits from 40 yrs ago.....how do I decide whether they are good or should be thrown out? 2. The engraving on sizes has worn out...how do I check the size? 3. Should I buy a set of good quality US made bits? any brand recommendations? 4. Should I buy metric or inch-based? Both? 5. In addition to #3 should I keep multiple backup cheap small bits?...looks like the pros go thru a lot of them. Phase 7: Second Planking Again, the design is so good....the strip fit near perfectly. I did not need the last plank near the keel except for a sliver on one side....the black veneer for the decorations is a nice touch. And even though I had screwed up by gluing the "counter" well before I should have, the fit between the counter and the planking was "acceptable"--not in the the class of Peta but not bad for a second build Phase 8...Waterways etc This part is tricky but is going well.....Can any one advise me on how one precisely measures the small segments where the waterways go? I can never get the piece to fit just right Thanks for the recommendations re: drill bits/calipers; will order at Amazon today. Another question: I had ordered some clamps from Amazon a while back and am quite disappointed in the quality; they are plastic and despite very little use they are either breaking or malfunctioning. Can anyone recommend a good metal+plastic combo clamp? Also when they say 1 " or 2" etc , do they mean how wide the camp can open up?
  6. Good afternoon, colleagues! I bring to your attention the test assembly of the new woodenkit from "MasterKorabel" Scale 1/72 The tender "AVOS" (in russian тендер "Авось") is the first ship of the Russian-American Company that was built in Alaska in Novo-Arkhangelsk in 1806 (now is Sitka, USA) The total length of the model is 42 centimeters 8 guns - 3 pound. Archival drawings of the tender "Avos" not preserved, unfortunately. But the Russian tenders are very similar to the English tenders. Russian shipbuilders used the English school. Therefore, designers "MasterKorabel" took as a basis one of the drawings from National Maritime Museum (Greenwich). In the basis - is Arrow (1823), a 10-gun single-masted Cutter, as designed and built by Captain Hayes. Tender "AVOS" was smaller in size than the "prototype". This drawing has undergone a change in length and width to match the basic dimensions of the tender "AVOS". As a result, the basis for a new theory and new circuits of hull. In short, this is a complete reconstruction of designers "MasterKorabel". So, here are the first photos
  7. Hi crew, I've had to be a little mercurial when it comes to how I'll spend the next months before I build a test (another!) of Amati's forthcoming 1:64 H.M.S. Victory so I can do the photos for the construction manual, so I was originally going to bash away at my Panart deck section. I was then going to plank the Caldercraft 1:80 Mary Rose I've had for around 15years. In the end, I decided the best way to spend that time was on Master Korabel's diminutive but gorgeous 1:72 Tender Avos, reviewed HERE and soon to be available from Vanguard Models in the UK. I've been watching this beautiful build of this model by Peta_V, on Model Ship World, and the kit I have is the same XS/Exclusive version. My plan is to do as much work as I can until Amati's parts land, sometime in October. Master Korabel's kit really is gorgeous, superbly presented and manufactured, and has some innovative design features that are there to make things as trouble-free as possible. The box is fairly small, but it pretty heavy. Planking is also laser-cut and etched with plank and nail detail. Everything starts with the flat deck-shaped component into which all the other elements plug. Work starts on Saturday, and until then, I'll be studying the plans and watching Peta_V's build even more!
  8. 1:72 Tender ‘Avos’ (XS Edition) Master Korabel Catalogue # MK0303PSN Available from G.K. Modellbau for €225.00 "Avos" was an eight-gun tender which in was built in 1806 in Novo-Arkhangelsk, Russian America (now Sitka, Alaska). With a crew of 12 men, Avos was part of an expedition under the direction of Nikolai Rezanov. During the voyage along the Aleutian ridge to the port of St. Peter and Paul, the crew survived many storms, forcing them to stop at Fox islands for repair, and also save a mysterious “native” from the Attu island. To secure the Kuril Islands and Sakhalin, bring the local natives under Russian allegiance, and to force Japan to conclude trading relations with Russia, in 1807 the ships “Avos” and “Juno” conducted many military raids along the Kuril Islands coast. Here they raided the illegal Japanese settlements, which were originally those belonging to the previously banished Russian settlers. During the expedition, the tender “Avos”, using its 4-oared yawl, conducted many boardings of Japanese ships and several landing operations. Each time they forced large numbers of Japanese to flee, whilst burning and sinking their ships as scare tactics. During the 1808 shipping season, the tender “Avos”, under command of Lieutenant Sukin, was shipping goods to America. On 11th of October 1808, while sailing from Kadiak to Novo-Arkhangelsk, “Avos” was wrecked during a storm, near the coast of Chichagov island, near the Alexander archipelago. The kit We’ve been fortunate enough to watch the development of this kit unfold here on MSW, plus we also have a gallery for the completed model. The kit itself was released last year and has been available with instructions written in Russian, as befits the manufacturer. Now though, the kit has been issued with English instructions and is available for sale via various retailers. I have linked German website G.K. Modellbau at the top of this article as one such outlet to buy this kit. Offered in 1:72 scale, the completed length of the model is 420mm, with a beam of 175mm. The height is also a tidy 420mm, so the result will be a beautifully compact and highly detailed model that won’t take up too much of your bench space. First of all, there are numerous variants of this kit, with differing prices, aimed at giving the modeller exactly what he/she wants to work with. The options are as follows: Standard kit- MK0303P Pear - MK0303PX (no nails) Pear with nails - MK0303PXN Pear with nails and sails - MK0303PSN The kit we have been sent for review here is the XS release, which has the pear planking with laser-engraved nails, and a complete set of sails. Avos is supplied in a very attractive and yet relatively small box with nice, glossy artwork featuring images of the finished vessel, and details showing the pre-spiled planking that is included as standard. Other features are listed, such as the double-planked hull, laser-etched bevel marks on bulkheads etc. One thing that struck me about the box is the weight of it. It’s actually quite heavy and there’s certainly nothing left to rattle about inside it. Lifting the lid reveals a whole swathe of paperwork, in the form of plans, manual, inventory sheet, English instruction sheet to use in conjunction with the manual, and also the inclusion of the original inventory and instructions in Russian. These were put aside as I have no need for them. Kit contents are very neatly presented within. Parts are either supplied in bags, and/or wrapped in clear clingfilm or thin foam sheet. The only part not wrapped is the single length of dowel that sits at the edge of the box. It is also noted that Master Korabel’s earlier release of the 4-oared Yawl is included as this hangs from the behind the ship’s transom. This little 68mm long vessel is a kit in its own right, and we’ll look at it soon. The first pack of contents that I look at includes the hidden deck around which the model itself is constructed. This pack of parts is neatly wrapped in clingfilm, and there is an identifying number slip in the pack. As you can see from the image, Avos is quite small, but of a size which I imagine will make it quite tactile and also a nice side project if you want some respite from a larger vessel. Unwrapping everything, I’m of course drawn to the largest component which is what I call the hidden under-deck. This deck-shaped item is laser cut to shape and is of course deck-shaped, with it being a slice from a little lower than the actual deck part. Made from a form of MDF, you can’t help but notice all the square holes which are cut into it. This is the key to Master Korabel’s kit engineering and provides the key positions for all frames and bulkheads, both below and above this part. It’s almost like the Lego equivalent of kit building at this point, in the very loosest of terms. A series of parts are also included in this wrap, spread across five small pieces of timber. Lastly, a couple of lengths of brass wire are found here, in two different gauges. Now we come to the 4-oared Yawl which is also available as a separate item. This mini kit is presented in a clear zip-lock wallet with a set of colour-printed instructions which follow the Avos format, and other illustrations and inventories. Master Korabel have produced the main parts for this from a sheet of very thin, laser-cut pearwood. Despite how thin this is, the laser has made a surprisingly small amount of scorch when cutting. Looking at the parts, you’ll see that a complete set of pre-spiled planks are supplied, saving the modeller a whole load of time and enabling an accurate and authentic appearance to this little gem. You’ll find pretty much all the constructiona parts here except for the oars and keel parts which are on a separate pearwood sheet, along with a nice display stand for the model…should you not wish to hang it from the transom of Avos. Again, we are also supplied with some brass wire and shim for such things as hanging the rudder and making the mast clamp etc. The whole yawl is built upon a jig which comes on a separate sheet of ply. None of these jig elements will become a part of the finished model, so everything will be in pear. That will certainly complement the pear exterior of the Avos hull, if you purchase that option. Once assembled, the jog is then covered with clingfilm and the multipart inner keel is inserted, followed by the ribs and then the pre-shaped planks. This is then removed from the jig and fitted out. The results are very impressive, as can be seen here. To find the English language version of the Yawl instructions, these are located at the end of the text instructions for the main Avos vessel. Wrapped in both clingfilm and thin foam sheet, the remainder of the timber sheets are located at the very bottom of the box. Now we can see the actual deck which sits atop a series of frames that raise it from the hidden under-deck and form the actual ship frames onto which you will plank the hull. No deck planking to be done though as this part is entirely laser-etched, and it looks VERY good! Note also the etched treenails. If you’re concerned about too much uniformity, you can also mask this in several stages and apply a finishing varnish in two or three slightly varying colours. That would look quite impressive. Of course, the laser reproduction planks are shown to notch into the edge plank, as they would. Various cut-outs are included for deck fittings and main mast. A plywood sheet contains all of the frame elements that plug into the upper side of the hidden under-deck part. None of these parts have numbers, and they need to be checked against the drawings which show the sheets and their respective numbered parts. There is more scorching on the cut side, as is to be expected, but remember, all of the frames will be hidden anyway. Another zip-lock bag holds a small number of sheets comprising ply and pearwood. Note the ply sheet holds thee stern frames, and that these are engraved so you can accurately bevel them. Transom parts are also included here. Here we have a sheet of wood, one of 2mm and one of 1.2mm. On the 2mm sheet, you’ll be able to identify hatches, breasthooks, knees, bibs, trestletrees, rudder tiller etc. The 1.2mm sheet contains parts such as transom finishing plate, pump supports, various coamings. Etch and cutting quality is first rate. This model is of course double-planked. The first layer is manufactured in 1.4mm plywood and these are laser-cut as pre-shaped components. You’ll also note the etched dots which line up with the frames and are to be used for nailing positions. The garboard plank also has locating holes which align with the formers to ensure absolute placement, and then of course, all other planks after it should be perfectly positioned. Three more timber sheets are now supplied. These are in regular timber, 1.5mm ply and 1.2mm stained black ply. A quick glance across these will easily identify the cannon carriages, bulwark rails, mast hoops, channels, bowsprit parts, yardarm cleats, windlass knees, etc. One thing to mention here is that the black stained ply is actually quite a dense colour, and not as grainy as my photography makes it out. If you have any concerns, you can always mask and paint the parts black anyway, but it shouldn’t be necessary. Now we come to our first sheet of thin pearwood planking, but this time, for the inner bulwarks. These are provided as single port/starboard items, with the actual planking runs and nails laser etched into the surface. This thin 0.6mm timber also provides parts for taffrail inner planking, toilet/latrine doors, rudder lap plate, false keel etc. We now see more of that lovely coloured pearwood with these next two sheets which contain mirrored sets of planks for port and starboard hull sides. As with the inner bulwark, these are also engraved with nail holes, plus the plank lengths. They are also all pre-spiled and ready to fit directly to the hull. Of course, outer bulwarks are supplied as per the inner ones. Other parts on these sheets include latrine roof, transom lap, compass case, aft chest parts, windlass barrel etc. We still aren’t done with black plywood yet as this 0.6mm sheet testifies to. Here, you will find things such as wales, bulwark rails, taffrail finishing planks, plus numerous other elements. Our last sheet of timber is this sheet of 3mm ply. It’s also the largest sheet in the Avos kit. A lot of the element here are quite obvious, such as the bevel-engraved lower hull bulkheads and keel frame. There are a good number of other parts here that pertain to various other structures, such as the stern, and these are designed to lock into each other and then into the false under-deck as per the rest of the various structure frames. It’s also good to see that we are also supplied with a stand onto which to mount our finished model. Coming away from the sheet timber materials, we now come to the packets which contain various deck fittings and other detail parts. These tend to be sorted into bags of differing components. The blocks and deadeyes look to be of exceptional quality with nothing mis-made as I’ve seen in some previous model ship kits. In 1:72, the cannon are tiny, but they look really great! Two metal anchors are also supplied. A whitish powder exists on the anchors, but this is easily wiped away with a damp cloth. Here we have some brass plank pins for the hull first planking, and a small kit which contains parts for the two deck bilge pumps. Two photo-etch frets are included in this release, of 0.3mm and 0.5mm thickness, respectively. Various items such as chain plates, mast details, ships bell mounting, latrine door fittings, rudder metalwork, block hooks and transom details are to be found here. There’s quite a lot of PE to attach and all of it is superbly made. I deal with photo-etch a lot for my magazine work, and I know this to be high quality and with reasonably small tags holding things in place. A fine razor saw would be ideal for removing parts, followed by clean-up with a jeweller’s file. Two name plates are included for the display base; a brass one in Russian and an English one made from a small piece of laser-engraved pearwood. A last packet of parts includes items to build the deck gratings and cleats. There’s also a toothpick in a little sleeve. One end is green, and I presume this is for applying small quantities of PVA or superglue during assembly. A screen-printed flag is included. Of course, we need some cord to rig this model and nine spools of this are included in various colours. Cord quality is high with no fuzziness. This particular version of the Avos kit contains a full set of sails. There are five linen-coloured sails, all cut to size, sewn and fitted with bolt ropes. These really are excellent. Master Korabel also sells this set separately, in case you purchased one version that didn’t have them, and you decided you did want sails after all! A set of three large plan sheets are included with this release, although the annotation is in Russian. However, three smaller sheets have English labelling and will provide all you need to reference your build. This allows you to use the larger drawings still, but you have the translations on the smaller sheets. A complete rigging inventory is also included. The instructions for Avos are driven by photo-led manual with each step of hull construction clearly shown with all parts clearly referenced. Some CAD illustration accompanies these photos, fully clarifying any areas you may be unsure about. The photo instructions are designed to be used in conjunction with a set of printed instructions. Together, these should make Avos assembly as straightforward as is possible to get. A whole series of drawings are also included in this publication, showing the various rigging and seizing details that you’ll need. This is a very nice touch. Conclusion This is my first time with a Master Korabel kit, and I very much like their entire approach, from packaging, through to kit design, timber quality, instructions and plans etc. It’s very much a quality product and you can tell that the company have taken real pride in their product. Being able to buy different options to suit your wallet or approach, is also a nice idea. When finished, Avos isn’t a big model, but she is thoroughly detailed with quality parts. Some contemporary European manufacturers could learn a thing or two from this Russian manufacturer. Highly recommended! My sincere thanks to Master Korabel for the review sample seen in this article. Master Korabel has distributors in the USA, Canada, Australia, Europe and is now looking for partners in England. PHOTOS OF FINISHED MODEL
  9. Hello Here I will show my build and I hope I have enough patience. I think this kit is not yet sold on USA.
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