Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'clipper'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • The Captain's Cabin
    • How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT** 
    • New member Introductions
  • Member's Build Logs
    • Build logs for SHIP MODEL KITS - by era - launch date
    • Build logs for SCRATCH projects - by era - launch date
  • Group Projects on MSW
    • Group Projects on Model Ship World
  • Shop Notes, Ship Modeling Tips, Techniques and Research
    • Nautical/Naval History
    • Discussions for Ships plans and Project Research. General research on specific vessels and ship types..
    • Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
    • Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
    • Masting, rigging and sails
    • Model Tips and Tricks and Making Jigs
    • Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
    • Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
    • Wood discussion...Where to use it? Where to get it? What types are best? How to Finish it?
    • Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
    • CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
    • Photographing your work. How to do this.
  • Ship Modeling News And Reviews.....Traders and Dealers...Ship Model Clubs
    • General Ship Model Kit Discussions - NOT build logs
    • Reviews
    • Book, Monograph and Magazine reviews and Downloads. Questions and Discussions for Books and Pubs
    • Traders, Dealers, Buying or Selling anything? - Discuss New Products and Ship Model Goodies here as well!!
    • NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
    • Important Ship Model Club News, Links to ship modelling resources and museums
  • The Crew's Lounge
    • Non-ship/categorised builds
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s Plans and Instructions/Downloads
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s General discussions/How to join
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Ropewalk Plans/Downloads
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Discussions about Rope Making
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Rope Materials and parts resources
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Commercial sources for ropewalk machines
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's Build Logs for the Carving Group Project
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's Tutorials and Discussion for the Carving Group
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's How to join this Carving Group
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's Build Logs for the Full Hull Version of HMS TRITON
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's How to Join The HMS TRITON Group Build
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's Cross Section Build Logs for HMS TRITON
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's How to join this group project???
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's General project discussions on planking, fittings and monograph chapters
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's Member Build logs for the HMS Winchelsea
  • Planking Techniques's Planking Downloads and Tutorials and Videos
  • Planking Techniques's Click Here for Topics dedicated to planking!!!!
  • HMS Granado 'Cross Section' - CAF Model's Questions and discussions about building the kit
  • HMS Granado 'Cross Section' - CAF Model's Build Logs for the CAF Granado Cross MID-Section

Calendars

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

  1. Link to content is in signature Introduction This log is intend to be personal track record of first "serious" attempt to scratch building of my very old Cutty Sark kit, started long ago and forgotten somewhere in house, mixed with some personal observations and notes Edits notes and remarks will be inserted later, to show points what are dangerous place (for dummy as me) to bump in undesired situation caused by in-patience, an-experience and God¨s will I am not a master, rather novice with too much ambition, but think in MSW there is enough room for all of us to share and learn, to keep a good time together My long lasting journey in wonderful world of ship modeling started long long ago in, I think, usual way. As almost every kid I tried myself in some cheep plastic plane models, fast and furious, short life each ( they can not fly...) Then after a while in paper car models ( my own creation), made about 30 pieces, no one leave ( they can not drive). Then, in a high school I made some no-name (or forgoten name) plastic kit ships, also no one leave ( they can not stay above heater ...). Last one, "Stella" ( Heller) died and rest in peace during cleaning dust few years ago This little Heller model on some way entered me door to "yellow brick road": Heller original colors in kit, by my opinion, were on such a type that model rather looks as toy, so I experimented with colors to catch color of wood, added extra details on deck and extra ropes ... joy in playing, and obviously first sign with arrow to entrance for something that on MSW is called "dark side" And then, once upon a time ... very long ago during the study of law, I make my first step for modelling ships in wood. I got done Columbus Santa Maria (If I remember well, also TEHNODIDAKTA Pula, but I am not so sure about manufacturer from this time distance) , made it, with a lot of improvisation, and with extra added ropes which to me it belongs ... but it looked nice for me. In that time I do not know nothing about real ship modelling, made it without necessary thinking, with half of brain, and in unnecessary hurry. Santa Maria got her way with my first wife more about 30 years ago. Somewhere on that days, my twin brother made little and simple Heller`s Cutty Sark, and maybe that moment I fall in love with sail ships and their beauty Then I finished law study, went in Army for one year, Navy in Pula, Croatia, former Yugoslavia ... and that was this ... 35 years ago only "Tehnodidakta" from Pula had made wooden models in kit. ( It was impossible for us mortals to order and pay kit from other country, even to know something more about ships, models, modeling techniques, tools and so). I was delighted with that discovery, and I bought wooden kit with plans and materials for "Cutty Sark". If I remember well, only few models were there ( Santa Maria, domestic ship "Jadran", some ships from old Dubrovnik, Bounty - not sure, and some domestic smaller historical models). And as every youth, wanting to be different and to choose the greatest of offered kits, a beautiful and extremely complex model with many sails and ropes, I bought it, knowing not in what I am just entering. To say again, I did not know absolutely nothing about Cutty Sark, and having no idea what serious modelling really is To write about Cutty Sark is unnecessarily, there is so much written and published, sure on much better way I can do. Also, She is still alive in her Museum I started working on model in 1984. and it kept me up until 1985-6, when I met friend with a really nice model of Cutty done, and I realized - or should I do it right, or it does not work anyway. And she went in deepest dark in my attic to collect dust and to cry silently in her dark corner Then came usual things: got a steady job, got a wife, divorced, abandoned study for doctorate, and another wife, and two little children, start and finish building my house, become a attorney, etc etc etc... and, after "only" three very fast decades, finally the time has come to proceed, if I do not want to watch TV or read a book, or work, and there is no other homework to do. Children ( 22 and 24) are not children any more, and they need me only for money ( joke), they are adults now with their own life ( students finishing their study) ... and, suddenly, I find that appears a few hours in day exclusively concerned only for me. Amazing discovery In meantime, trying to interest my son, we (I) made some simply plastic, I think Revell Pirate ship toy Jolly Roger. Failed attempt, made in less than a week, but I enjoy making it The real trigger of my come back in wooden ship modeling was a appearance in Serbia of DeAgostini`s specialized periodical journal ( in 100 appearances) with successive parts of galleon, and I like it very much, but do not like many simplification of details which are important for me. Drawing boards on the deck with a graphite pen ? No, thanks. Waiting two weeks for single part ? No thanks. And then I remembered that I already have a plans of Cutty, the one of the nicest sail ship ever. Of course, the one with the most complicated rigging ... For difference, now, after 30 years I finally have a working corner and a mini-workshop in heat-room near the garage (and not to forget, continuous war with my daughters Persian cat and long cat hair eveeeeeerywhere). All rest wooden parts were 30 years old, and they have dried up and became largely and almost unusable. In fact, there are left only plans, some old strips and veneer, and some plastic / metal parts that I should see if I'll ever use them. So, I made up my mind, dig on mess of old things in attic of house, FIND Her, and a few months ago I started from the beginning, only with saved old blueprint sheets ( old misfit try of Cutty went in trash) with the big important difference that exists today „His Majesty the Internet“ and a millions of pictures of finished models and details of the models, which is of invaluable help. Not to forget , today in Serbia there are affordable many required tools like Dremel/Einhel tools, and so. A great help is the fact that "my" ship still exists reconstructed in Greenwich, and there are available many photos of her details for research Edit on september 23.2013: At the begin of this month I find Campbell plans, and from that time my work goes mainly by them, and my dedication and way of looking to my work rapidly change from day to day Beginning And so ... my first brave steps toward swamp, with more braveness than a brain presence I did not mention "swamp" accidentally. As time goes by, I decided to do some steps in building in my own way (?), not in way which is ordinary, and in sheets. (for example - making my own dead-eyes ( later - blocks ?) and, later - ropes, my way of planking, etc etc). What a confident fool ... but ... that is just me - whole life I discover hot water again and again ... Later I discovered that sheets have mistakes and insufficient instructions, my hands and experience are mainly not precise as I want, patience ... what is that ? But they are much better than 30 years ago, and my imagination and improvisation still exist, and I learn every day Really significant stage of my build is finding MSW, and here are first steps ... First decision was that I do not want to pay somebody for laser cut. What then rest for me to do ? Using paper with photo copy of plans to transfer plan to plywood. A "bit" of cutting and a "bit" of glue, and my way (?) to hold angle of 900 and to assume required stiffness skeleton for further work . Later, when time to mount deck come, I found that ship's ribs are not well drawn in plan, or I did not cut and mount them properly. Not provide proper and sufficient longitudinal and transverse slope of the deck. Yes, it will be quite a job to fit it There was a lot of my unexperience in this , very very very significant stage of building. In POB building (I discovered later) the crucial thing is right dimensions, position and angle of ribs. EVERYTHING later depends. Consequences can be, and in my build are - catastrophic. Months of lost time trying to correct mess, and all time re-examining myself - was it better to go from start. If that happen - to hell with everything, and start over without more thinking. If you do not do this - be sure that at moment you think that succed in correcting one part, another part will protrude out and jump right on your hand. And when fix this, third part will hit directly to your face. And when fix this, you discover that first corrected part is not good. Some kind of perpetuum mobil and never lasting process. You will spend months instead week or two to make keel and ribs again, this time with thinking and measuring. And as you are impatience full running to start planking on this messed bulkhead construction, as I was, be sure that you will have great enjoyment in unnecessary work And there is stern from one piece (it was corrected later in proper angles) - not just one correction, smart learns from others' mistakes, and fool ... In that stage, I have not idea how complex are curvatures of whole ship, and how much time I have to spend on it ... to lose them ... and to find them ... and to lose them again ... And, oh, what a self-confident ... Later I concluded that keel is little distorted, mainly by "my way" of assuming "right" angles, but there is no way to correct this .... Deck mounted with many previous corrections of ribs to assume slope. This was big big big MISTAKE. Right order is : first planking hull, and after that - deck mounting. See posts #240 and connected future posts. If you want to follow lines on upper side of ribs that lead to longitudinal and latitudinal curvature of deck, do not this. Deck can not be from one single piece of veneer 1mm width, as I did. You can not twist it in proper way. There is no way to do it. I tried, and result is - months of trying to correct mess and find lose lines. You can not correct it at all never again. So, better is to plank with strip by strip. For consequences, see later post http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-m-tehnodidakta-19711983-campbell-plans/page-42#entry156687 Holder for dead-eyes and wedges in one peace, not in four parts as in plan. It is much easier ( ha, ha ha !!!) way to follow the line from planes. Also mistake from same reason.I lose proper lines of hull, and this hang over my head all the time ... And holders must be redone completly Whole deck planting with veneer, also not in original plan. In original kit was wooden plate 2mm with 1mm deep and 1 mm wide grooves carved full-length of plate. I mounted that on old Cutty. What a joke ! First two pictures represent deck from kit, then part of a sheet, and at last picture is my try Edit Martch 31. 2014 : Fore and Aft deck - third time re-planked, main deck - second time re-planked Fool made dead-eyes rather than use plastic from kit ( For details - post #16). 66x designated only above deck. There will be so much more latter. Enormous work, and enormous lost time. Yes, I have to make them again in better way And twisted rope handmade instead wire. More elegant an more real, as I thought - obviously on that time I had no right idea what all this will be to the end Plastic dead-eye from kit at left, and self-made in center and right on picture Preventive cover with light sadoline, and view from the future bow - Once again mistake, I had to remove all traces of sadoline And then, when I join to MSW, was a time just start planking, planking, planking ... and to discover that ALL first moves on this chees table are just - wrong
  2. Hello all In the early 2000's, I got the model Flying Fish and last December 13, 2021 I started the build. I enlarged the plans 50% to 1:64 (3/16 scale ) to keep it the same scale as my other models. I used rubber cement to glue the patterns to 1/4" plywood. I then separated them with a scroll saw and proceeded to cut them out. I tapered the bulkheads and then attached them to the center keel piece.
  3. Question, In the instructions it shows gluing the ship to the stand early in the build. I worry that might restrict flexibility in painting. Can/should I wait until closer to installing masts etc? David
  4. First build after about thirty years, a christmas present that i try to do justice to. Sorry ,but quite advanced in the build and i did not log it. Made the mistake of trusting the kit at first , built the hull and some other stuff before looking at the rigging plans and realising the errors of my ways. Didn't even know the ship still existed , i am ashamed to say ! (But maybe they should have informed me in the instructions!) Some stuff will have to stay , but i am trying to scratch what i can to improve things and i am quite happy with that. The scale is rather small for such a ship , i think the kits at 1/84 or 1/72 would be preferable. So here is a kit illustration and a few recent photos. Feel free to comment on my catastrophies prow main deck with misplaced anchor hawsers plus oversize planking and deadeyes...many non kit additions. the poop , pictured with a cousin that i have just recovered for spares, allthough she is not on her best form. She makes me feel better when i look at mine ! try uploading here as i have been struggling!
  5. Picked up this vintage kit from @Cornhusker1956 back in August. Here is the build log, I promised. I do have a soft spot for these old kits. My first wood ship build was the Charles W Morgan by Marine Model Company. I built that kit in 2020. The date on the blueprint is 1951. This kit seems to have survived well and deserves to be rescued. This is a solid hull kit so my first order of business will be to get this “pre carved” hull into proper shape from stem to stern. Many thanks to @Cornhusker1956 for entrusting this little beauty to me. Cheers 🍻
  6. Hello everyone. This is my first model ship and my first build log here. English is not my native language, so sorry for any mistakes. I started more than one year ago but I’ll start the log from the beginning, hoping to help other members not to do the same mistake I did. As suggested by the instructions, I started from the hull: The base coat was made by airbrush, acrylic colors (gunze and tamiya), followed by oil filters, dry pastels and oil dry brush in order to simulate the wood planking and to highlight some details. Tyre black was used for the hull, highlighted with gray. A mix of copper and gold, washed with green/blue oil were used for the Munz metal planking. Buff, desert yellow and similar tones were used the base for the wood. Burnt umber filters helped to break the uniformity and bring the wood a better look (at least I hope…) and the details were highlighted by pastels and oils (remember that the detail are raised and not recessed in this old kit). That's it for now. Hope you like it and don't be afraid to criticize!
  7. Log entry No. 1 Well, I'm going to take the plunge and start a build log. I could probably name this build log after one of my favorite Dr. Suess books I had as a child; One fish, Two fish, Red fish, Blue fish. There are several Flying Fish builds on MSW, so why not one more. I started this Model Shipways build in 1998 when my kids were small and had grand ideas of building the Fish as a grand piece for my office. Despite working as carefully as I could, I got frustrated with all of the mistakes I was making and put it aside in 2000. This was not the first ship model I've built. I just made a lot of careless mistakes rushing the build. Reading through the Fixing Mistakes thread on MSW gave me the motivation to take on the Fish again. The first order of business will be to fix all of the mistakes I've made. Here's some of the mistakes I will need to fix: 1. Did not fair bulkheads 5 and 6 enough resulting in a kink in the planking rather than a smooth run. I will need to remove the planking I've done and fair the bulkheads properly. 2. Sanded the planks as I went before I attached the stem. This resulted in a misshapen bow and too thin planks. Need to repair and bow and properly fit the stem. 3. Broke bulkheads 1 through 3 in the forecastle. Need to properly trim the replacement bulkheads I made from scrap basswood. 4. Did not properly taper the planks and installed stealers when I didn't need to. I will be removing the incorrect planks and re-installing them. 5. Need to replace the stern part of the planksheer that I ineptly carved. 6. Cut the stern part of the keel off too short so that it doesn't extend below where the rudder will be installed. I work exclusively with hand tools. I do not use so much as a dremel or air brush. One of the reasons is that I like to work at night when it is quiet. I don't want to disturb the admiral with the noise of machinery. The second reason is that I love working with hand tools. Surprisingly, despite sitting in an unheated garage for 20+ years, the hull is still true with no twist. I'll be working slowly and methodically and will post progress periodically. Please wish me luck. Wawona59 (John)
  8. I've moved the subject of building a hull model of the Medium clipper built by Donald McKay in 1869 to its own log. I didn't want it to become confusing with my 1/96 version...which is in the sail and yard stage. Within a small group of focused Glory admirers it has motivated us to(with much study and application) correct and redraw some blatant design errors that were found in her contemporary drawings commissioned by Mike Mjelde and published in his book about the Glory of the Seas. Recent discovered photographic evidence, coupled with previously published imagery has caused those of us who are passionate about her to redraw her profile including these new changes. I will be building her in 1/75 scale...quite a large hull from what I am accustomed to building....but non the less impressive in stature and availability of detail. She will be built plank on bulkhead style and even that will be modified..where as I will be using pre-machined strips of clear pine...almost veneer like. 2"wide by 3ft long by 1/16" thick variable. This material easily conforms to the shape of the hull and can be cut and manipulated to cover her entirely. I will follow the method I used when I built the Great Republic. I have already purchased the 3/16" maple plywood and will be gluing the precut bulkhead templets to it soon. Here are some images of the drawings and the templets and overall profile....NOTE...I will be making other changes to her stem and cutwater as I go...which I will draw upon the profile so as to follow the corrections that have been made. I want to also thank several members for aiding me in my quest and who also share in the love of the Glory of the Seas....member Clipperfan and member Vladimir Wairoa. Your assistance is and own personal passion is much appreciated. A Disclaimer for all who may be watching and who are purists in their own right.....I am a crude...lazy....modeler and will most likely use techniques and methods/materials that are overtly unorthodox......please forgive me now and allow me my ranting and miss-steps.
  9. I have been reading with interest the blogs about buildings Model Shipways Flying Fish. This is opportune for me as I have been building the solid hull version of this model for over 40 years. I have been particularly interested in other builders interpretation of the aft cabin and stem of the Flying Fish. I have been fortunate in that I was able to observe and photograph the china trade painting of the Flying Fish when it was up for auction in 2005(?) at Northeast Auctions.. Since then we have all benefited from the pictures of the Flying Fish painting by James Buttersworth that is now available to view online. Both these paintings have cleared up questions about the ship such as mast and bowsprit colors aft cabin face and to some degree, the figurehead. While I think I am the only builder building the solid haul version, I will attempt to relate my own experience building this model and the results of my own research and thoughts. I hope you did this interesting.
  10. Hello everyone. This is my first build log and it is for the Donald McKay designed extreme clipper Flying FIsh. The ship has been described well in other logs, but the summary is here: (wikipedia and http://www.bruzelius.info/Nautica/News/BDA/BDA(1851-11-04).html) Built: 1851, East Boston Shipyard Length Overall: 220 ft Length between perpendiculars: 210 ft Length at keel: 202 ft Maximum beam: 40 ft Tons (OM): 1566 tons Originally owned by the firm of Sampson and Tappan of Boston. She was wrecked in Fuzhou in 1858, sold to a company in the Phillipines, and renamed El Bueno Suceso. She eventually sunk in the South China sea. Flying Fish was "coppered" with Muntz metal rather than copper (similar to the Cutty Sark). You can't get Muntz metal tape, alas, but I may try to do something to make the plating more consistent with muntz. I had not originally intended to do this ship. Having recently completed the US Brig Niagara, my plan was to make a scratch model of the RRS Discovery, but COVID-19 put the kibbosh on that for now, as the only plans available are at the Royal Museum Greenwich and they went back on lockdown while processing my order. I can't imagine going through the winter cooped up in the house without some kind of project. If and/or when the plans for Discovery arrive, I will likely have two projects going. But, I've decided that this is a feature, not a bug. While I'm in the doldrums of say ratline tying with one, I'll be in the doldrums of planking with the other. So, while it means that both projects will take longer, I'll be able to at least alternate some of the tasks. And, there will likely be a couple of months of work converting the builders plans into a usable POB design for the Discovery, so, who knows, depending on COVID vaccine timelines, it may be enough to make serious progress on this ship. That's what I've told myself anyway. So, I believe tradition for the first post of a kit build log is a picture of the kit ready to go, so here are mine. Let the construction begin:
  11. Well, I have been lurking here and meddling in others' build logs for quite some time. Most of you know I abandoned my previous Cutty Sark build and I'm very anxious to start anew. I have the kits (one as a working kit, the other is spare) and almost all of the necessary extras. However, I'm still awaiting one more delivery consisting of a wood deck, windows, rope and a few other accessories. They're coming from Radimir at HiSModel in the Czech Republic and, though he's a bit late, I am confident they will arrive soon. Until they do, I have finished the control box for the lighting. The lighting will consist of navigation (running) lights and interior illumination of the three deck houses. Power is a 12-volt 2-amp wall wart that plugs into a socket in the back. Output voltage is currently set at 6 volts for each regulator. I haven't installed the box-to-ship connectors yet, I need to determine the pinouts and that's a tedious process. The wood is very soft so I have some tearout from the drill but not enough to make me do it over. I may make another one in hardwood at some future time. I debated with the boss over labels for the switches and she won out (she always does). They're not really necessary and detract from the aesthetic.
  12. Well with winter round the corner, it's time to hunker down and get back into the shipyard with Cutty Sark. This is a model I have always wanted to build since starting out in this hobby with Billing's Mary Ann. Thanks to Kip (aka Sawdust), I was able to acquire this second hand model which he purchased from a neighbor for 2 bottles of wine. He also sold me Nepean's book and Campbell's drawings so I have lots of info over and above what Billing supplies which isn't much. Thanks to Lou's lead, I have also purchased J.J. van Griethuysen,s drawings which are spectacular. As you can see from the photos, this is an early Billing kit , from the 70's I would guess. Einar Billing includes a little intro with the Reader's Digest version of instructions they are known for. In them he states that the kit is intended to be built and not merely assembled. He expects the builder to exercise skill and imagination in the building of the kit. Sage advise indeed. As with all earlier Billing kits, the hull and fittings are sold separately. Billing believed some modellers might want to create their own fittings. They also recognized that many models are never completed so why buy a bunch of fittings that might never make it onto the model which will never be used. The majority of the wood in this kit is mahogany, which you can imagine is now rather dried out and a little warped. I have decided to replace the hull planking with obechi which I have used on previous Billing kits. It's not expensive, bends easily with a little steam and will be painted, so no need for top quality timber. As the build progresses, I will decide what other wood needs replacing. As can be seen from the photos, the kit is already started. The original owner of the kit did get it stared but then realized he no longer wanted to continue. So I have the kit framed and with the false deck installed. The rest will be all me. He has done a first rate job, and the keel is straight so it is a good point to resume where he left off. Job one will be to bevel the bulkheads. So here's a couple of pictures of what is to come...
  13. Young America - extreme clipper 1853 Part 1 - Decisions I took most of the summer deciding whether I would undertake another ship model and if so, what the scope and subject would be. I had a lot of time to think about this while catching up on neglected home maintenance and repair projects. After deciding that I needed the challenge of another ambitious project, the decisions on scope and subject kept me busy through July. I also had to decide whether I could commit to another Naiad-like build log. We shall see. I received a number of suggestions on subjects and that input is most appreciated. Since I expect this project to span a number of years, the decision was a big one. I have enjoyed wrestling through the process of deciding. I had a number of criteria: 1) significant design/drafting content, 2) fully-framed construction to further explore my interest in structures, 3) a change from the well-trod path of fully-framed 18th Century Royal Navy subjects, 4) avoiding commonly modeled ships, and 5), I thought it was time to do an American ship. Before focusing on the extreme American clippers, I considered, among many other possibilities, a 19th Century American warship, perhaps steam-sail, and looked seriously at some of the ships by John Lenthall, built locally at the Philadelphia Navy Yard – examples: Germantown (sail), Princeton (screw/sail), Susquehanna (paddle/sail). In the end, the idea of the extreme clipper was too attractive to dismiss. To me, this type represents an apex of achievement in wooden sailing ship design and construction – in terms of sleek hull lines, sailing performance, structural development and sheer beauty. In the design of the extreme clippers, minimum tradeoffs were made to the one paramount design parameter - achieving the shortest sailing times between far-flung ports. Speed meant not only sleek hull lines and a spread of canvas, but also the strength to withstand continuous hard driving, day-in, day-out. After deciding on the clipper – and an American (meaning all wood) clipper - I chose the work of William H. Webb of New York. It would have been easier to select something from his more popular competitor, Donald McKay, but McKay’s ships built at East Boston, have long been widely modeled – Staghound, Flying Cloud, Lightning and others. McKay’s papers do include substantial structural detail – very tempting. Webb, too, has left papers, and these have been explored, with information published in the secondary sources I have used. There are many gaps, but there is a family resemblance in details to all these ships and many practices and scantlings were commonly adopted. Webb presented more of a challenge – in more ways than one – as I will describe later. Of Webb’s ships, I chose Young America, built in 1853, his last extreme clipper. Less is known about her construction than some of his others, so the task of piecing her structure together is more interesting. I will discuss this, the ship, and the extreme clipper era in the next posts. Below is a photo of Young America, docked at San Francisco, a frequent port of call for her. She was built mainly for the East Coast to California trade. In the picture she is rigged with double topsails - a modification from her original single topsail rig. There are also some paintings of her. She was considered Webb’s masterpiece – one of his twelve clippers in a list that included renowned ships like Challenge, Comet, Invincible, Flying Dutchman – all of these examples being 200 to 240 feet in length. YA enjoyed a thirty-year career that included fifty passages around Cape Horn. She set a number of sailing records and earned a ton of money for her various owners – and for those who made money betting on passage times. In 1883 she left Philadelphia carrying 9200 barrels of Pennsylvania case oil, cleared Delaware Bay and was never heard from again. The model may be fully rigged. I will decide later. With the hull length involved (240’) the scale is likely to be 1:72, but that is not yet cast in stone. Structural drawings are well along and I expect to start construction later in September. I hope these posts will be of interest and perhaps draw some attention to this somewhat neglected modeling genre. Ed
  14. I am working on the Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark. I haven't gotten too far along, even though there have been many hours spent. The hull is painted and ready to assemble. I have been working on the deck as paint drys elsewhere. The photo taken in Australia is my reference along with books and plans. The model will be what I call clean, by not trying to create a diorama on a stand with weathering and all, just making a replica of a ship in 1/96 scale. I am not sure who else likes the look. I removed the wedges from the inside of the hull. I am going to replace them with small plastic rod. Testors enamel is being used with an air brush and also painting by hand with a paint brush. There are brass stanchions with brass wire. Decals are being used to add the white panels to deck houses. I will also use decals to add the white portions of the inner bulwarks. The eye rings are made by me with annealed wire. The deck covering is from His-Model. I plan to fully rig the ship, something I haven't done before. I am not going to add green to the copper, as copper only turns green in the open air. In the water, it remains copper. The only part of the sheaving that is green is the part out of the water. There is a good picture showing this at the Charles W Morgan website. The ship was being lifted out of the water. Also, I am not going to weather anything. I'll be posting more as I go. I am new to this build format.
  15. This topic is created to show the build of my first model ship, which is a Cutty Sark (not the easiest one to start with I agree, but I have patience ). The kit is from Del Prado (no longer on the market) and bought the complete set from ebay. This kit was sold in 100 different packages, I guess there were weekly issues that could be bought from newstands or order to home. My package supposedly was sitting in a cellar or attic, and seems to have everything I need to build the complete ship. I have read many bad things about Del Prado - mostly of the scale and the not accurate details (of which I can live with without any problem). After scanning through all the packages I found a few broken pieces what I will have to recreate somehow, and one major problem.... The figurehead Del Prado provided in the sealed package is of the HMS Victory and not the Cutty Sark, so either I use that (unlikely) or reproduce the original figurehead once I got there (more likely). Also I decided to create some minor upgrades to the build if possible (not redesigning the model or changing the scale, but mostly adding extra feature). For this I am closely monitoring Nenad's and Bob's log of their build. Now the reason: I am not a new guy in modelling, I usually work on dioramas of WWII, building in 1:35 scale, using kits, natural materials and polystirol. Recently less kits and most scratch work of my own. Since I am not only making tanks and figures I usually take up half to room (nearly half the flat we live) for my hobby, so my wife (from now on my Admiral) told me to create a Sail ship for her, so I took the challenge, and her we go.... Pictures to come later Gyula
  16. Hi – this was purchased as a skill leaning exercise prior to finishing my Billing’s Cutty Sark version and was purchased through Ebay as was cheap with some parts missing. No pictures of early stages as never thought of taking any! I will detail the changes I made/make as it may be of help to other new builders. If anyone has comments always welcome as first time I've posted to ant forum The model was published in weekly/monthly parts sent through the post. Not sure how people got on with actually building it on this basis, as having all of the building instructions to go through prior to starting is helpful as the build sequence and instructions are vague in many places and also after mounting the masts and yards holes need to be drilled in these to attach other parts. Difficult as the yard being drilled is attached to the mast and unsupported. Although expensive if bought on a monthly basis this would result in the project being broken down into small manageable parts with no confusion as to what is the correct part to use for where and also step by step instructions, useful for other projects as well. Recommendations before building would be:- To go through all building instructions to get an understanding of how the build progresses and work out what needs completing before a part is attached. Obtain a copy of Harold G Underhill’s Cutty Sark plans, as recommended by other members on this site. I purchased mine from Royal Museums Greenwich (£14.50 for 3 plans including postage), but also managed to download a set for free from the internet. Don’t rush, make sure that the parts fit correctly prior to gluing. To obtain a really detailed scale model a lot of additional work will be required to most parts, but if built as per instructions will give a good representation of the Cutty Sark plus a lot of building experience gained. To assist with rigging suggest obtain copy of the Revell 1/96 rigging instructions (available on the internet) as these give a lot clearer understanding of the various rigging parts and where they go. To date the problems encountered have been:- Hull developed a twist in building despite following planking instructions. Would suggest that anyone building it adds additional bracing between the frames, making sure that masts can still be mounted, I would suggest sheeting diagonally from keel to deck level. To form a triangle between deck and keel. Attached diagram just shows square timber, but the main frames appear to be set at a distance of 62mm so easier than if all frames at different distances. Certain liberties appear to have been taken to simplify the build. Two options are either ‘go with the flow’ or amend as per additional information obtained. Certain dimensions are not given so it’s either a bit of guess work or look for the information elsewhere, luckily I have the Billing’s plans for CS so have used them To date hull completed as per following picture:- Hull was built as per instructions but would suggest that all of the keel is glued together prior to adding frames as care is needed to ensure that the hull remains square, filling in between frames as suggested above would stiffen structure up. The masts are kept in place on the keel by a square box, however I found that the position of these results in a vertical mast not canted backwards as is correct, easy fix for the foremast and mainmast is to leave out the front part of the box as this is against a frame and for the mizzenmast to once again leave out the front portion and glue a spare piece of material across the front of the sides, this will result in 3 rectangular boxes allowing front to rear movement The hull was planked as per instructions but nails were only partially inserted and removed when glue set. Planks bend quite easily if soaked in water. For the planks around the stern planking was soaked in water, excess water dried off and the formed round jar with masking tape and elastic band. Careful shaping of stern and bow braces is required to ensure smooth flow of lines of planking. One major error in the design, presumably for ease of construction, is that the fore and rear decks are flush with the top of the hull whereas the hull should extent above these slightly. Decks form part of the hull and sit on top of the frames so only easy solution would be to add a 2-3mm extension on top of the current planking all the way round. Deck planking per instructions is cut to 12.5mm x 3mm lengths which does not fit the pictures of the build. I modified this and cut to 62.5mm x 3mm, which gives actual life size of plank of 18.5ft x 10.5inches. About right for length but twice the specification width, which was 5 inches. I put a border plank around the outside of the hull and all main deck structures and then planked to these, but didn’t joggle the planks where these joined. Latter per the instructions the main deck planking is cut back by 2mm to add the bulwarks, which are 2mm thick, I moved the edge plank in on the main deck in by the 2mm to avoid trying to remove a thin strip after planking I cut all planking using a balsa cutter which was useful as the surface was divided into 1.5mm strips so made measuring easy, as a stop could be set to get all planks equal length. The bulwarks are pre-cut and require two strips joining together with a strengthening piece glued inside and then planked outside, and after fitting planked inside. After joining and planking the outside I cut off the strengthening piece to give a smooth surface inside. Once hull planking completed I made a mixture of polyfiller, PVA glue and water to fill gaps etc. and then sanded to a smooth finish (shows as white in the photo). Adding too much PVA glue, as I found out, results in a very hard surface which is difficult to sand, ended up using a wood chisel in the end. Careful sanding at bow stern and where bulwark joins is required to obtain a flowing shape. A second layer of thin planking is added of either sapele veneer or ‘copper planking’ so finish after sanding does not need to be ultra-smooth.
  17. 13/12/21 I started looking at this kit 2 or 3 weeks ago, as an ‘in-between’ project while I take a break from the Victory. The kit is from 1976, it’s a bit brittle and there’s a lot of flash, some of it so heavy that I’ve needed to look at other logs in order to know what to trim off and what to leave. While I don’t want to get into 3D gymnastics on this kit, I’m re-making most of the deck furniture i.e. the windlass rotor, winch rotors, fife rails, sail lockers, cabins etc, as these are very quick and easy to model in F360 and equally easy to print. I wouldn’t say the end result is better than the kit part, detail-wise, just cleaner/crisper and I get to duck dealing with some joints.
  18. Hi all, After some time into the build i decided to create a build log of my progress on the sergal cutty sark 1:78. This is the first wooden ship model i am building, so everything is new to me and this forum was and is a blessing to me to learn all the tips and tricks of building ship models. The sergal kit comes with very little instructions, only about 4 pages of text without pictures, and a lot of real size plans. Not ideal for a beginner like me so im getting the "know how" else where. I also bought the Campbell drawings of the real ship, which help me to add detail. I started this kit in 2015, but after planking one side of the ship it stayed untouched on my shelf for about 6 years. Suddely i felt an urge to continue the build, and i did not stop since. Its going very slowly due to working a full time job. SO hope you enjoy this build log, and im looking forward learning from all of you fellow ship builders.
  19. Hi All, Glad to be back! good to see everyone is reposting their logs. I wanted to repost some pics of my progress to date, its been a slow build but its been a lot of fun. This kit is by Mamoli i have added the ebony planking and the copper plating. Currently im working on the the standing rigging. I've learned so much from everyone here and so glad we have this outlet to share are projects. Brad
  20. After 15+ years of storage in a plastic bag, I am going to try and continue with this Constructo Cutty Sark. I, do have some full size plans, but no written instructions. First picture is freshly in covered. Second with some repairs. Third showing some really brittle fittings, what are they called? Fourth is more work done. I am not hopping for a scale build, but just getting it to look like a ship! Terry
  21. Hi. I am new to Model Ship World. I began building the Flying Fish in early 2006 and worked on it slowly over the next 6 years. And there is remained gathering dust until this month, when I decided to pick it up again in hope of taking it to completion. As can be seen in the photos I will be adding, the Hull has been completed and the deck structure are at an advanced state of completion. I look forward to meeting others of you who are also working on this model. Jared
  22. My stepfather has been building a partwork HMS Victory for the best part of a decade, and so I finally caved and bought myself a ship to work on too. I decided to stick with something at least (mostly) injection moulded rather than wood, but it's ended up slightly larger than I expected - baby for scale: It will be built here: The build will not be wholly as instructed, as there are a couple of modifications I'm planning to the base kit which are quite simple such as the bulwark stanchions and moulding around the deck houses. More significantly there are a few aftermarket parts available for the kit - the main one being the replacement of the plastic, three-part deck with a laser cut oak veneer equivalent. The supplied deck has 'positive' timber outlines and so even if I can fix the glaring gaps between the three deck sections and rescribe the grain it's still going to look quite bad. There are also photo-etched names and ornamentation, draft decals and flags which I think I will avail myself of, but the rigging and its level is yet to be determined (see later) Anyway, on with the build, commencing with purchasing two hardback books about the ship (by C. Longridge) and getting the hull together. The first modification are on the bulwark stanchions - seen here: These should be metal posts rather than fillets, so I have cut away and sanded them flush as below. You can see the fairly awful decking laid in place: I experimented with fixing the decks together with supporting styrene to get them as level as possible and extra clamps, but even so the joins are very obvious indeed. As such, I'm expecting to use the laminate decking and will work under that assumption: Despite enjoying the occasional ferry and reading the Aubrey-Maturin series I've no meaningful knowledge of rigging and only a very minor familiarity with terms (please excuse me - lots of googling going on). I am aware that hismodel provide both rigging plans as well as CNC machined deadeyes, photoetched eyelets and hooks, etc. but frankly I don't know if that's just going to end up being too much for me. I think I would be quite happy with the rigging as described by the Revell kit instructions, except for the fact that the shrouds and their associated deadeyes/lanyards are moulded plastic - it just doesn't look right to me. QUESTIONS ABOUT RIGGING: Is real rigging a fools errand for a first sailing ship build? I don't mind taking time but I don't want it to be impossible! I'm thinking given the low cost to replace the eyelets and hooks with photoetch/wire as standard. My first thought was to use the Revell hardware placements like-for-like, and then add any additional for the 'real' rigging as I go along (if I take that path). Is that sensible, or should I really know upfront? If I go ahead with replacing the shrouds with thread, how much time is that as a proportion of the time spent doing a) the Revell rigging, or b) real rigging? I want to know if I'm going to commit to that whether I should just go the whole hog, or whether there really is a large gap and I need to think carefully. It is also really not clear to me why I would replace the belay pins, though it seems to happen frequently - I appreciate they are about twice the size they should be, but they are still very small. Does the fact they are plastic play a role? QUESTION ABOUT OTHER AFTERMARKET PARTS: Most build logs seem to replace the plastic railing stanchions with turned brass equivalents - not cheap at all, worthwhile? Many thanks for reading, see you all soon.
  23. Well...I have been planning this build for over a year. Unlike my practice..I will not be modifying a Revell CS hull....but will be building a scratch POB model of the Great Republic from a couple of sources. Namely the McCann plan and those supplemented by the plans provided by Arthur H Clark, and drawings from Crothers, manuscripts and first hand wood etchings of the vessel. Unlike many contemporary replications...I will be following the descriptions of her rig by Duncan McLean and Richard McKay. Today I began by copying and cutting out the frame drawings and separating them into for and aft sections. I hope to get the plywood this weekend and then transfer the template to it and then cut out all the bulkheads. The model will be 3/32"=1' Here is an image of a engraving depicting the rig I will replicate. And an image of the cut templates. Rob
  24. Hello. I have been inspired to pick up on my long ago started Cutty Sark. I started this one in roughly 1987-1988 right after I finished the Revell USS Constitution. It didn't take long for me to get burnt out on after doing the Constitution. It has been packed away ever since. It has survived 2 marriages and several moves. Fortunately I wasn't very far along on it, and it was able to fit back in the box, even with the hull halves glued together. After unboxing it again only one broken leg on the foremasts second section. Not to bad for having been unloved for years. I have read the following build logs a couple of times to pick up ideas and tips. Cutty Sark by Bruma - Revell - 1:96 Cutty Sark by Kevin-the-lubber - Revell - 1:96 Cutty Sark by bcochran - Revell - 1/96 Cutty Sark 1/96 Cutty Sark by VitusBering - Revell - 1:96 - Redux Cutty Sark by Bill97 - FINISHED - Revell Here is where I am restarting from. I have already started to rework the foremast. I am also working out how to lower the main deck, if it's even feasible. I was the recipient of another kit that had been started a few years ago so I have it for experimentation. The rest of the kit isn't usable the decks are horribly warped and the masts are assembled very poorly. But have plenty of spares of everything else. I have also picked up the most recommended books I have seen listed. I will probably have plenty of questions. And my naval terms knowledge is not very good. But I do port from starboard (I think). Looking forward to getting in deep with this. Thanks for looking. Tom W.
×
×
  • Create New...