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Found 15 results

  1. Part 1: Introduction of a new project: With my Triton cross section running to its completion, it is time to look out to a new cross section project. My eye fell on a former group project of our modeling club ( https://dedissel.weebly.com/ a cross section of a Lowestoft smack, based on drawings of the smack 'Master Hand'. One of the club members, Georges Verleene, an experienced ship carpenter (now retired), wrote for this project a very detailed monograph with lots of detailed drawings. The group project went on many years ago, but lucky for me Georges had still a copy of the handout left. 001.pdf
  2. I have always wanted to build a cross section, and since my next build will be HMS victory, so I have chosen corel's Victory and corel's victory cross section in 1:98 scale. I 've been told, that corel's kit is quite old and in some parts outdated. some pictures from cargohold, I have added pump house, shot holder and hull ribs
  3. Hello. I have been asked to construct a Model to show the inside of a Ship. I have chosen to build the HMS Victory at a large scale of 1/36.90 Having got permission to use the plans from :- http://www.mountainhaven.com/VictoryXCP/PDFbin/Frame_Sta_( .pdf http://www.mountainhaven.com/VictoryXCP/PDFbin/Frame_Sta_0.pdf http://www.mountainhaven.com/VictoryXCP/PDFbin/Frame_Sta_3.pdf A previous topic regarding plans. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2885-large-scale-cross-section-drawings/#entry79890 I have redrawn the plans and added bits and made the drawings slightley more accurate. I am using adobe illustrator. The nice thing about using Illustrator is that it is vector drawn so it can be scaled up to any size. I am printing mine on A1 this gives me the scale of 1:36.90 The construction of this model will consist of five frames on each side. The Keel is make from mahogany. This will have holes for pining the frame guides. And the Garboard plank cutout. And false copper pins/rivets. The two frame guides are fixed to the keel. The frames are inserted into the frame guides and jig'ed to hold them at the correct shape and distance. I have also included the curvature of the hull into the model. The clamping blocks have a curve in to allow for the hull curvature. The clamping blocks will remain in place until I need to remove them for planking. The dummy frames will be added to the ends of the hull. I will use 4mm basswood for the dummy frames. Next I will plank the exterior. Then its building up the deck by deck. Orlop deck beams drawing. Orlop Deck LH.pdf Lower deck beams drawing. Lower Deck LH.pdf Middle deck beams drawing. Middle Deck LH.pdf Upper deck beams drawing. Upper Deck LH.pdf Quarter Deck beams drawings. Quarter Deck LH.pdf Section through centre drawings. hull.pdf Side view drawing. Hull Side View tmp.pdf Orlop deck layout. Orlop Deck Plan LH.pdf Lower Deck layout. Lower Deck Plan LHtemp.pdf Middle Deck layout. Middle Deck Plan LH.pdf Upper Deck layout. Upper Deck Plan LH.pdf Quarter Deck layout. Quarter Deck Plan LH.pdf Some of the timber preped for use. I will Add the drawings after I have as I compleated them. Started the build as you can see in the photos . Have now got to add the Dummey frames. Regards Antony.
  4. I've finally decided to take the plunge and start my first wooden model. I don't have much experience working with wood (although a friend and I did recently complete a wooden truss-tube telescope - his 3rd, my 1st - but that involved mostly square cuts at a much larger scale), so I thought this cross section would be a good way to get my feet wet, so to speak. With this kit I think I can learn some of the basic skills I will need without getting too caught up right away with learning to bend planks, learn how to strop and rig blocks (3mm blocks! How do you work with those?) and enjoy seeing how the rigging comes together. I've already figured out things I would have done differently, but I think for the most part they will not affect the final look. You will see in some of the pictures below that the planking seems to be at an angle, and not perpendicular to the frames - in reality the spacers are not parallel to the keel but the planking is - should have scribed a line on the frames where the spacers go. I've decided to follow one suggestion I came across in one of the really excellent build logs I've come across and plank the hold up to the point where the deck beams attach and use the planking to keep the support level. One question on bending the deck beams - the plans call for gluing 2 strips of lathe together and putting it in a jig to get the right curve - I am assuming I can just smother the wood in glue and bend and place it in the jig (with wax paper to keep it from sticking to anything else) and it would keep its shape when dry (that is what we did to create the one curved piece on the telescope). Is that correct, or do I need to wet the wood, soak it, putting it in vinegar or rubbing alcohol? Thanks for stopping by.
  5. Hi everyone. I have decided to start working on this kit to break away from the monotony of working on the same kit from several months. I always thought it would never do that but... I just need a break. First hurdle, I got the old kit version on eBay and the directions are only in Italian. I sent an email to Corel l and they very kindly send me the direction in English. However, this is for the second revision of the kit and I unfortunately have the first one. Bummer... Anyone have this kit and the directions on English?
  6. Ive decided to move out of the tin shed and back into the brick outhouse and re work to a better standard:) So it begins...its gonna take time, its gonna take money, so little by little each weekend I'm plugging away. I'm finally going start cleaning and converting my original brick shed I used when I first started making model boats, I moved out when it got too cold and mice and spiders and all those horrible little bugs get in, the models were getting in a mess, I then moved into the 'tin shed' BUT my tools and work area are expanding. I have a complete vision of what I want to achieve but some work needs to be done. The first is too have a clear space to work but still continue to have a workshop (tin shed) to continue building my models. I have 3 shed....2 brick and one tin shed, it's a case of moving things around to achieve a clear space to work. The picture shows the main problem, I need to block up and seal the roof, any heating will just disappear, this is the dreaded asbestos concrete roofing, I have been assured that as long as I don't break or disturb the roof then it will be ok. As you can see I did start filling the joins but need to finish this off..the wood that I put up some years back will come down and I will treat the underside of the roof with Bituminous paint, a sort of seal. Ive never had a leak from this roof in the last 14 years Ive been in this house so I'm confident. I'll then be adding loft insulation and plasterboard's for ceiling to seal the whole thing. That's got to be the first aim..to seal the roof. The next stage in my vision is to render the walls, something ive never done before and I will only be skimming rather than the full 2 or 3 layer render, this will then be painted with masonry white paint. The floor is concrete and needs no work, but there are small gaps that will need filling (render) close to the floor on the walls. Once the whole shed has been 'sealed' the fun bit starts...to build the workbench and plan a perfect 'man's' workshed This has one window that the housing association put in years ago...double glazed..perfect, the door thought will need dealing with. For me this makes sense, the 'tin shed' is ok but as I'm sure most of you have some very expensive tools that need looking after..a brick shed is far better protected than the 'tin shed' please comment on anything I'm doing here..I'm no expert. So that were I started in October 2012.......
  7. Hello everyone. This will by my first model kit log and I am very eager to get started. I have done a few kits in the past, made quite a few mistakes, and learned a lot. This however will be my first cross-section build. It has been a couple years since I worked on a quality kit. I recently finished up my college degree, and I had no time before now to commit to such projects. This Corel Victory Cross Section seemed like a nice little project to refresh my skills before I start on my Model Shipways Syren, which is currently sitting on my shelf. There wasn't very many build log's on MSW for this kit, so I am going to try to make a nice log here for future builders. Anyway at this point I have un-boxed it, checked all the parts for quality, checked for missing parts, and preparing to get started. I am going to try to do as frequent updates as possible on this log, so be sure to check back often. If anyone has worked on this kit in the past I would greatly appreciate any advice or anything to watch out for during the build. The quality of this kit looks great. Instructions are a little hard to follow, but the 6 pages of plans are as accurate and as easy to read as any kit I have ever built. I am looking forward to diving in on this. More coming soon!
  8. This will be my second Echo cross section. After raising all the frames on my earlier attempt I was not satisfied with the quality of my work and decided not to take it any further. The Echo makes a very nice looking model as is evidenced by build logs like Maury's and others and I contemplated a second effort. I am a member of the Ship Model Society of New Jersey and I brought my Echo with me to a meeting after the last of the frames was raised. There was so much interest that the club voted to make it a "group project" where everyone builds their own version of the same model. 12 of us have signed on for this project. We placed a bulk order for wood with Jeff Hayes at Hobby Mill which arrived last month. We meet once a month to discuss progress and group problem solving. I hope others from the club will start build logs as well. Build logs help the builder and the modeling community so it is a win-win in my opinion. I haven't started work yet but that should happen this weekend. The goal of this project is to build and fit out the model according to the plans posted by David and Greg. The first effort was a great learning experience and I'm sure this one will be as well. Can't wait to get started.
  9. Here's a kit I bought about 20 years agowhenI was in Junior High School. It was my first wooden kit. Needless to say, it was very rough arround the edges when I finished it back then. So, fast forward to today, I found it again at my parent's house and want to refurbish it. Now so much more is avaliable for refrence and my skills have improved a little bit too Looking forward to any feedback! -Matt
  10. Hello everyone. Frankly, I must start out to say that I am humbled all of the models I have seen so far here, wonderful and masterful work! I will admit that I am still of a novice when it comes to building with wood, but I have been building plastic models for fifteen years. This is my second wood model. I built a kit bashed Bluenose II for my wife a little over a decade ago. Therefore, this is my first attempt in as many years at a wooden kit. So the build begins: The third frame: The fifth frame: I look forward to sharing my progress with you, and reading all of your tips and feedback. Cheers, Timothy Igoe
  11. Hi. I am just getting into CAD modeling and I have Solidworks ver 2005. I am learning the very basics at the moment. Not easy at when your over 60. The purpose of learning this is I want to do a very detailed cross section of the Victory. My question is... Is there anyone else out there using Solidworks ?? I have found a few very good Utube starter videos. Any advice apart from telling me to change software is welcome (as I already own Solidworks the cost will kill the project). Many thanks Antony.
  12. This will be an abbreviated log up to where I am now with my build. Here it is right out of the box. Starting to put the frame together. Closeup of the first error with the kit. There pre-cut spacers for the frames and the kit included not enough long spacers and too many short spacers. So this is my solution. Here I am assembling the deck beams. A shot of the assembled frames and deck beams. Note: If I was to do this over I would have not followed the directions and would have completed the the internal part of the model from the hold up. There was limited space for getting all the stuff between the decks.
  13. Hi With the Corel Victory cross section almost completed we ( me and my son ) decided to start on this build. I will bash the kit as and when we come to it. Lots of little things as far as I can see. We started by removing the frames from the laser cut boards. some boards were distorted a little but this is not cause for concern. a very sharp knife was used for this cutting both sides of the board. We then sanded most of the charring from the frames with a nail board. made easy work of the charring. All the frames were offered together and with minimum sanding to make a perfect fit. Then glued the frames together in place over photocopies of the master frame drawing.(7 frames 7 copies). Then all the frames were sanded and excess glue removed then stacked together with a false keel and cocktail sticks to check alignment. They all looked spot on to me Then we built a jig to hold the frames while assembling the keel and the frames. Degostini just used a scrap bit of the laser board as a spacer. Not to my liking as its easy to get a twist in the assembly at this point. What’s not shown is the square that fits on the top to hold everything square. And the Back board made from MDF with a photocopy of the master frame drawing. That’s about it now until next weekend when my son visits. Regards Antony and Karl.
  14. Hi This if my first build log ever... I will try and get it right. I liked Erebus and Terror build log on the Victory so I decided that this was the ship for me. A link to his Build... and very nice it is Erebus and Terror build log This ship is going to be a preasent for my daughter. First pic is Adding the Riders. One fitted more work on the other yet. Making the upper riders and the pump and well First deck done Thats it for now..will post the rest tonight. Regards Antony
  15. This is my build log of a Cross section from a British Man of War from approx. 1815. This was my first POB build. The Kit is from Panart. The Plans consisted of 1 double sided sheet in Italian.

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