Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'frigate'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • The Captain's Cabin
    • How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT** 
    • New member Introductions
  • Member's Build Logs
    • Build logs for SHIP MODEL KITS - by era - launch date
    • Build logs for SCRATCH projects - by era - launch date
  • Group Projects on MSW
    • Group Projects on Model Ship World
  • Shop Notes, Ship Modeling Tips, Techniques and Research
    • Nautical/Naval History
    • Discussions for Ships plans and Project Research. General research on specific vessels and ship types..
    • Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
    • Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
    • Masting, rigging and sails
    • Model Tips and Tricks and Making Jigs
    • Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
    • Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
    • Wood discussion...Where to use it? Where to get it? What types are best? How to Finish it?
    • Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
    • CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
    • Photographing your work. How to do this.
  • Ship Modeling News And Reviews.....Traders and Dealers...Ship Model Clubs
    • General Ship Model Kit Discussions - NOT build logs
    • Reviews
    • Book, Monograph and Magazine reviews and Downloads. Questions and Discussions for Books and Pubs
    • Traders, Dealers, Buying or Selling anything? - Discuss New Products and Ship Model Goodies here as well!!
    • NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
    • Important Ship Model Club News, Links to ship modelling resources and museums
  • The Crew's Lounge
    • Non-ship/categorised builds
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s Plans and Instructions/Downloads
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s General discussions/How to join
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Ropewalk Plans/Downloads
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Discussions about Rope Making
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Rope Materials and parts resources
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Commercial sources for ropewalk machines
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's Build Logs for the Carving Group Project
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's Tutorials and Discussion for the Carving Group
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's How to join this Carving Group
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's Build Logs for the Full Hull Version of HMS TRITON
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's How to Join The HMS TRITON Group Build
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's Cross Section Build Logs for HMS TRITON
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's How to join this group project???
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's General project discussions on planking, fittings and monograph chapters
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's Member Build logs for the HMS Winchelsea
  • Planking Techniques's Planking Downloads and Tutorials and Videos
  • Planking Techniques's Click Here for Topics dedicated to planking!!!!
  • HMS Granado 'Cross Section' - CAF Model's Questions and discussions about building the kit
  • HMS Granado 'Cross Section' - CAF Model's Build Logs for the CAF Granado Cross MID-Section

Calendars

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

  1. The Hatton and Hart photographs were/are my primary source for trying to create as much model authenticity as possible. Sometimes I have to assume, which I hate. Example being, on the upper stern deck a partial funnel profile can be seen behind and to the port side of a binnacle. (I may as well jump on this grenade while I'm here. This binnacle appears to be about five and a half feet tall, a foot and a half above the standard four feet. Access to viewing the compass is aided by a two step ladder propped up against it seen in the first of the four H&H photos.. I'm guessing the reason for the extra height is where the compass is above the railing and other metal objects. Please jump in with comments should you have other thoughts) All other photographs from the starboard point of view are and blurred and of no use determining if a starboard funnel is actually there. I chose one to be there due to ship designers seemingly love of and necessity for symmetry.
  2. Hi, I start the construction of a new model, it is the English frigate Euryalus, the scale that I adopt is 1:56, the usual 74 cannons🙂
  3. Hey Folks, I am both honored and humbled to announce my next Blender build: USF Confederacy is my 4th ship in Blender, yet will be my first attempt at a full historical recreation. While ‘Rose’ will always be my first love, I plan on taking many lessons-learned from my little-brig-that-could and apply them to a project on a grander scale. Goals of USF Confederacy Build: Accurate With Rose, I proved to myself that it is possible to do comprehensive rigging and sails on a 3D model. I had seen some absolutely stunning 3D builds on MSW before I joined, but I noticed that 99.9% of the threads stop during the rigging process (I’m talking about full digital builds; not those done to 3d print parts later). Why did so much excellent work not get completed? Well, because in the 3D world rigging is actually where the overwhelming majority of the work takes place. I hoped to be among the first, because visually, it’s the yards, spars, sails and rigging that occupy the majority of the space taken up by any model ship. Anyway, with Confederacy I want to bring the same level of realism to the keel, frames, planking, carvings and fittings – and have it be historically accurate this time. Thus, any deviation or parts taken from the designs of other ships is to be well planned out and documented up front. Light Rose clocks in at 6.2 million vertices and requires 14Gb of RAM and 7.5Gb of VRAM to render… without water, clouds, or anything else in the scene. Even if I never sell or distribute her (I’m not in this for the money lol) I do plan on one day doing renders of Rose duking it out with other ships in an epic naval battle, or perhaps sailing up the Thames in Victorian London. Ergo, I must do more with way, way less. I’ve long been imagining/theorizing techniques to reduce geometry/improve performance and I am genuinely excited to try them out. Beautiful Photoreal or bust, ‘nuff said. Excited to share – will post steps from the planning phase later today. Best, -Nate
  4. I finished my Mississippi River Steamboat Robert E Lee in early October, and took a break from ships to build a TV console for my son and daughter-in-law. In the evenings I was looking for a new ship to build - something beautiful but challenging that would not need to go in a case. I found a build log for HMS Fly (Amati) built by moderator @ccoyle. Chris built his model as a hull model, no masts, yards, or rigging. What a brilliant idea! He built all the fun bits without ending up with a dust catcher. I started searching for other ships that might look good as a hull model and found the Diana by Caldercraft. I asked Chris for advice, and he told me that my taste was consistent as both models had been designed by @chris watton, owner of Vanguard models. I ordered the Sphinx and had it within a week, but haven't been able to start it until now. There are at least 18 build logs for the Sphinx on MSW, 7 finished, 3 in progress, and 8 stalled. Here are links to the finished logs for easy reference. HMS Sphinx 1775 (prototype) by James H - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - FINISHED 12 pages, 5.5 months. This is the prototype build used for photos for the beautiful manual in the kit. HMS Sphinx 1775 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale 29 pages, 16 months. Built as a hull-only model. HMS Sphinx 1775 by Glenn Shelton (glennard2523) - Vanguard Models - 1:64 10 pages, 5 months. Glenn wasn't happy with his work (which looked great to me) and stopped with a hull only model. HMS Sphinx 1775 by glennard2523 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - V2 Kit by Glenn Shelton 16 pages, 11 months. Glenn started over and completed an even nicer model. HMS Sphinx 1775 by mtaylor - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 17 pages, 10 months. Mark also stopped with a hull-only model. A very nice build. HMS Sphinx by ECK - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Only 3 pages, 5 months. A fast build with a short log, but the model is gorgeous. HMS Sphinx 1775 by Hollowneck - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 19 pages, 16 months. Amazing model with full sails mounted in a diorama.
  5. Hi I’m Adrian Sorolla, I haven’t participated in the forum for a long time I’m building a 34-gun Spanish frigate, 1789, called "Mahonesa", I am building it on a 1/32 scale and for its realization I am following the plans drawn by Fermín Urtizberea. Although its construction is already under way, but since there is still a lot of work ahead, I want to present it now in this fórum. I’ll put an excerpt of photos from the previous construction, so you can get an idea of how it is. Cordially Adrian
  6. I am embarking on a new build. I had thought to not start another until I finished Oneida, but progress is going slow on her, and I am not getting any younger! Since Oneida is getting near the rigging stage, perhaps going back and forth between hull work on Euryalus, and rigging on Oneida, will keep my interest up in both. I am building a proper layout board, and this is the extent of my progress to date! It's not finished, and the framing guide is not fastened down yet. It is based on Ed Tosti's Naiad building board, but bigger, as his was for a similar sized ship, but at 1:60 scale. I understand why the smaller scale. When I saw the Euryalus plans which are drawn at 1:48, I was quite surprised at the size. However, I quite like the idea of always building at the same scale, so as my Oneida is 1:48, so also will be my Euryalus. As I mentioned, I am rigging Oneida, but I have no plans to rig Euryalus. I would have no place to put it. I have one issue, as I begin. Volume 1 of Euryalus is now sold out, and out of print at Seawatch books. I have purchased a new Vol. 2, so I have a complete set of the second volume drawings, but I am missing some drawings from Volume 1. I am wondering if anyone out there, who owns Volume 1 would allow me to copy the ones I am missing--I believe the ones I need are #6 Body; Bow Pieces; Rudder; Cross Section, and #13 Beam Patterns; Stern Timbers. Or, if you own Volume 1 (with all the drawings) and do not think you want to keep it..... If the book was still in print I would, of course, purchase it and support the authors, Allan Yedlinsky and Wayne Kempson; and Seawatch books. Allan and Wayne have been very helpful to me in getting off the ground (off the ways?). I just need to get copies of those missing drawings! PM me if you can help. Ron
  7. Hello to all - Those of you who followed my building of the Swan 42 racing yacht may experience some temporal whiplash as the Wayback Machine moves the shipyard some 300 years into the past. Even though the scale will be about the same, the materials, methods, and style will have little or nothing in common with the last project. We leave the clean lines and millimeter accuracy of a rich man's toy for the rough outlines and incomplete draughts of a pre-Colonial pirate ship. Queen Anne's Revenge was the flagship of the notorious pirate Edward Thatch (incorrectly called Teach), known as Blackbeard. In barely more than a year and a half, from the summer of 1717 to November 22, 1818, he and two other pirate leaders put together a large fleet that took numerous merchant ships, looting them and holding any worthwhile captives for ransom while taking any willing sailors into his piratical crew. He was hardly the most notorious or bloodthirsty pirate, but he captured the popular imagination with his large fierce black beard and his habit of placing lit rope matches for his weapons into his hair during a battle. The origins of the ship herself are not definitively known. It is thought that she was built in about 1710 as a small frigate of about 300 tons known as La Concorde, with her first cruise as a French privateer during Queen Anne's War in 1711. When the war ended in 1713 with the Treaty of Utrecht her owners sent her into the slave trade. She made two profitable cruises between 1713 and 1717, taking slaves from West Africa to the French colonies in the Carribean and capturing prizes on the return leg back to France. On November 28, 1717, during her third slaving cruise, she fell afoul of Blackbeard with two armed sloops. Her crew was sick and many of the cannon had been removed to make more room for slaves so she was captured easily. Below is a drawing of a similar light frigate from the early 1700s. After renaming her Queen Anne's Revenge and adding significantly more cannon, she became Blackbeard's flagship and was used to capture numerous ships and even to blockade the port of Charleston for a week. Turning north from there in company with several smaller pirate ships on June 10, 1718 they tried to enter a shallow anchorage known as Topsail Inlet (or Old Topsail Inlet), now called Beaufort Inlet in North Carolina. Although several other ships entered safely, the larger Queen Anne's Revenge grounded on the sand bar at the entrance, as did another ship that came to her aid. After removing the valuables she was abandoned and left to the cruel mercies of the sea. Blackbeard himself lasted barely another six months until his death in November of 1718 during a battle with the Royal Navy. The ship was rediscovered in 1996 and is now being excavated underwater in project managed by the North Carolina Department of Cultural Affairs and the North Carolina Maritime Museum, part of East Carolina University. Numerous artifacts, including several cannon, coins, navigational equipment, and hundreds of everyday items have been recovered and are being conserved. You can see photographs of the artifacts, view interactive maps of the ship's history and the wreck site, and read the archaeologists' and researchers' detailed reports if you go to the Queen Anne's Revenge website at http://www.qaronline.org/Home.aspx It is a little gem of a site and well worth looking into. I have been asked to build two display models of the QAR for the Maritime Museum. They will be at the large scale of 1:36, yielding a model of some 48" LOA from the tip of the jib boom to the ensign staff at the stern. It will rise some 44" from the keel to the main truck with a main yard of some 22" with stunsail booms rigged but not extended. The hull is to be solid below the gun deck but open and fully detailed above. She is to have a full suit of sails with all sail handling lines, although several will be furled so the deck can be more easily viewed. There are no plans or illustrations of the ship, so her apearance is a bit conjectural. As a basis for the model I have been given two sets of plans. The first is a simple, one-page rendering of the lines and profile of a similar small French frigate which was captured by HMS Advice and which is known therefore as Advice Prize. I am also working from a set of drawings done by Jean Budriot of yet another light French frigate of the period known as Le Mercure. He has written a monograph that is illustrated with numerous detailed drawings of all of the bits and pieces of the ship including several profiles, cross-sections and longitudinal sections, and sail and rigging plans. However, as is his custom, there is no station lines plan from which to derive the hull shape. These two sets of plans have to be reconciled, not only with each other, but with the known historic facts. For example, it was reported in contemporary accounts and court-martial testimony that the Queen Anne's Revenge had 20 large cannon on board when she went down. Le Mercure is pierced for 10 guns on each side, but the Advice Prize has only 9. The Mercure drawings have the channels for the fore and main shrouds set below the gunports, while the Advice Prize has them above. Le Mercure is shown with a square, open beakhead bulkhead, while the plans for the Advice Prize shows a closed in forecastle. At the stern Le Mercure has a large quarter gallery, rather than the small quarter badge of the Advice Prize. But that quarter badge is set very high, with an indication that the Advice Prize had a poop deck above the quarterdeck. These and many other details, large and small, will have to be reconciled as construction continues. To begin with, a tenth gunport was added to the Advice Prize and their spacing was adjusted accordingly. The quarter badge was lowered and it is this resulting profile that will be used to build the models. On this plan you can see a horizontal red line. This is my line of demarcation between the solid hull below and the open gundeck above. It is set at the level of the gundeck for the forward four ports. A tapered piece will be added at the rear half of the ship to account for the sheer rise of the gundeck towards the stern. But this line is also used as my registration plane for setting up the templates for the hull shape at the various stations shown on the plans. As I was working out the hull construction the first of what will surely be many problems arose. In the scale that is required, the maximum breadth of the model works out to just over 9 inches and the station lines work out to, mostly, 3 inches separation. To work from the centerline I would need wood of at least 4.5 inches wide and 3 inches thick. However, wood of that size is not easily or inexpensively acquired. Instead, I found basswood planks 4 inches wide and up to 2 inches thick. I decided therefore to piece together the hull. As you can see in the wood blocking plan below, I started with a vertical central piece 3/8" thick to match the width of the keel. This was sandwiched on each side by a vertical lift 1/2 inch thick, then by the side pieces whch would be cut to the profiles of the appropriate station lines from the plans. As usual with vertical station line lifts, they were cut to the profile of the appropriate station line. For each three inch station segment a two inch lift and a one inch lift were used. I also decided that the hull should be partially hollow, not only to reduce weight, but to give the stresses somewhere to go other than outward when the wood swelled with changing humidity. My solution was to take each lift and cut out the center, leaving a crescent of wood about 1 inch thick. Construction began with the gunport deck piece cut to shape and the three vertical central pieces glued to it using carpenters' squares for alignment. Then the station line lift crescents were glued in place and secured with dowels. Here you can see the first three segments glued and pinned, with the fourth made ready for installation. This was continued from the center out to the bow and stern, with the final lifts left solid and clamped to the growing hull block. The completed hull block was left to dry for a week before the bamboo dowels were trimmed off. Now the carving and shaping had to begin to reduce the stepped shape of the lifts. The model is so large that the usual woodworking tools were inadequate in any reasonable time frame. I therefore purchased an angle grinder and set it up with coarse 50 grit sanding discs. This was followed by a random orbit sander, also with coarse grit paper. As you can imagine, this makes a hellish racket and leaves a hellish mess, Eye, ear and respiration protection are a must, and if you are not going to do all of it outside, you need three other things - an empty room in the basement; a big shop vacuum; and most importantly, an understanding wife. I am glad to say that I have the first two and am blessed with the third. In this photo you can see how far the shaping has progressed. From here there still has to be a lot of hand work that is checked and rechecked as usual with station line templates. The next segment will take us through that process. Be well Dan
  8. I first set foot on board the Constitution when I was 7 years old, and I was hooked on sailing ships ever since. My elementary school library had C S Forester's The Captain From Connecticut which I loved and led me to Forester's other work, namely Hornblower. In fact, the 16 foot daysailer I've had since 1979 is named Lydia. I spent my teens and twenties working under sail and power, from barkentines to tugs. I've built several of the 1:96 scale Constitution/United States Revell kits, two of them were RCed; but I always wanted a sailing model of the ubiquitous British frigate, and no one made that kit. I finally decided to build one. Already deep into building an 1850's American sloop-of-war, and with a Baltimore Clipper schooner already planked up, I began a third model of the HMS Macedonian. I chose Macedonian because I could easily get Chapelle's drawing of her from The American Sailing Navy from the Smithsonian, and she was interesting. Macedonian by Gardner Macedonian was a Lively class frigate rated at 38 guns, another of Sir William Rule's designs. Launched in 1810, during the War of 1812 she had the misfortune to meet the American frigate United States, a Constitution class 44 and was captured. She was taken into the American Navy and served until 1828 when she was broken up and replaced by a new ship. Lively Bacchante The story of Macedonian is well told in Chronicles of the Frigate Macedonian, 1809-1922 by James T deKay and I've posted a fair history of the ship on my page There's lots of data available on how the British built and out-fitted their frigates, and even Macedonian's figurehead still exists, but I never have found any reliable information on what her stern looked like. What I've come up with is my own conjecture based on the sterns of other Lively class frigates. The mounted figure is from a statue of Alexander that existed when Macedonian was built. The round object is the "Vergina Sun" found at ancient Macedonian sites and dating from the time of Alexander's father. Symbology available when Macedonian was built and while this is my own guess, it's at least a logical guess. I considered using Alexander's profile from a coin in place of the mounted figure, but his face is already on the bow - given the choice, I'd think an English builder would choose the horse. When the drawings came in from the Smithsonian, the first thing I did was have them digitally scanned. I then rescaled them from 1:48 up to 1:36 mostly so this model would be the same scale as my Constellation. That done, I made up a sheet with each station drawn full-sized, and printed that on my plotter. At this scale, the model should be; Length: 59" taffrail to Alexander's nose Beam molded: 13.3" Draught: 6.87" without the removable ballast keel Her length over the rig will be about 7' and she will stand from keel to truck, about 4'. (I'll update this with more accurate numbers and metric equivalents at a later date) These paper patterns were used to rough cut the wooden stations from 3/8" plywood. Each paper pattern was then glued onto it's station close cut on the bandsaw, and then fined up on the beltsander where some bevel was put into the forward and after stations.
  9. Hello to you model maker friends, I come by this subject to share here the adventure of building the model of the French frigate Belle-Poule of 1765, whose start of construction already dates from 2018. This ship is of undeniable interest for these harmonious forms but also for its historic journey. The plans used come from the monograph of Jean Boudriot, a great French specialist in the old navy, author of many fabulous works on this subject, published by "ANCRE". https://ancre.fr/fr/monographies/17-la-belle-poule-fregate-1765.html This monograph does not give the entire frame, but only the lifting couples, the hull is built conventionally. The realization of the structure of the model is completely personal. But everyone has their own method and this one does not pretend to be a reference. The interest of presenting this work remains the sharing of ideas but also the constructive criticism which often avoids gross errors. Communication tools today provide us with facilities that we could not have suspected a few years ago, so let's take advantage of them. My first job for the Belle Poule was to determine on the shape plan, 2 reference points, common to each couple, which will then be used after drilling and thanks to centering pins, to achieve a perfect symmetry by working by turning over the mini milling machine. To make the shapes of the bow and the stern as precise as possible, I had to plan for filling beds, referring to the water lines on the plan. This is the beginning of this adventure which I will post the following on another message. Thanks for reading, Jacques. Bonjour à vous amis modéliste, Je viens par ce sujet partager ici l’aventure construction du modèle de la frégate française la Belle-Poule de 1765, dont le début de chantier date déjà de l’année 2018. Ce navire présente un intérêt indéniable pour ces formes harmonieuses mais aussi pour son parcours historique. Les plans utilisés sont issus de la monographie de Jean Boudriot, grand spécialiste de la marine ancienne, auteur de nombreux ouvrages fabuleux sur ce sujet, édités chez « ANCRE ». https://ancre.fr/fr/monographies/17-la-belle-poule-fregate-1765.html Cette monographie ne donnant pas l’intégralité de la charpente, mais seulement les couples de levée, la coque est construite classiquement. La réalisation de la structure du modèle est tout à fait personnelle. Mais à chacun sa méthode et celle-ci n’a pas la prétention d’^tre une référence. L’intérêt de présenter ce travail reste le partage d’idées mais aussi la critique constructive qui évite souvent des erreurs grossières. Les outils de communication aujourd’hui, nous apportent des facilités que nous n’aurions pu soupçonner voilà quelques années en arrière alors : profitons-en. Mon premier travail pour la Belle Poule a été de déterminer sur le plan de forme, 2 points de référence, communs à chaque couple, qui serviront ensuite après perçage et grâce à des piges de centrage, à réaliser une symétrie parfaite en travaillant par retournement sur la mini fraiseuse. Pour réaliser les formes de l’étrave et de la poupe de façon la plus précise possible, j’ai dû prévoir des massifs de remplissage en me référant aux lignes d’eau du plan. C’est le début de cette aventure dont je posterai la suite sur un autre message.
  10. I had originally decided to build my Confederacy kit from Model Shipways before building the Raleigh, but once I opened the box and put the bulkhead former together I noticed that it was warped. Emailed Model Expo and have a new one on the way. Since that build is on hold and the fact that I want to build and not wait; I've decided to start my US Frigate Raleigh build from the Hahn plans that I have. The plans and timbering came from the Lumberyard. The ship will be in 1:96 scale. The timbering is cherry for the frames, keel and stem and holly for the decking. The timbering did come with some laser cut parts for the stem, stern and keel. Guess I'm kinda cheating, lol. I really hope that I am up for the challenge of a Hahn style build. So far, I have cut the 1/8 cherry strips into the pieces to make the frame blanks and have started gluing the frame blanks for the cant and half frames. There are 33 of those and 78 full frames. I suspect that it will take roughly about a week to finish gluing up all of the blanks. Anyways, on to the pics. As always, any and all comments are welcome. All the pieces for the half and cant frames, 34 each. The pieces for the center full frames, 33 each. The pieces for the rest of the full frames, 12 each. Some of the half and cant frame blanks glued up and drying.
  11. For my next build I wanted to scratch build something that would mean something to me. I have done the Triton cross section and kits before but these all took from one to two years. For a scratch built frigate I would estimate it would take me around 8 to 10 years. Since that is a considerable portion of anyone’s life I wanted a subject that would stick with me. Not having a preference I started by preparing a short list of requirements A) It would have to be an English Napoleonic frigate. I have always been fascinated by the period (and have re-enacted as a Coldstream Guard at Hougomont on the anniversary of Waterloo and as an officer of the 40eme (part of Lannes’s 5th Corps) on the anniversary of Austerlitz (that was great as the re-enactment was on the site where the 5th Corps had fought and it was snowing) I was admittedly a bit of a Bonapartist on the land war. On the Sea war I am unashamedly a Royal Navy fan. It would have to be of English design and not a capture (see A) C) It would have to be smaller than most late war frigates as firstly size is an issue and secondly the early war was more challenging. The British dominance in the late war was of no interest to me D) It would have to have a story or something of interest for me to look into Now I then started to read around. Early candidates included A) The Shannon, should need no reason really though a personal connection for me is that I have held the sword Broke used in the Chesapeake battle and swished it around. In the end it failed on reasons C, plus it was built of fir which I found strangely unattractive The Guerriere – almost for the same reason as the Shannon but knocked out for reasons A and B plus C C) The Juno – Out of all the British Captains of the war Samuel Hood is one of my heroes. The problem with the Juno was that the Toulon incident was the primary one and that was not quite enough to fulfil D. If I ever do a 64 it will be Hood’s Zealous at the Nile D) The Phoebe – The fightingnest ship of the Napoleonic Wars. If you like ship to ship actions then this is the one. If I ever do a second frigate it will be the Phoebe as it stands my eventually winner trumped it on D So we now come to my winner. I had encountered it earlier in my reading but discarded it on C as its ‘famous’ action was a late war one at the battle of Lissa. I then encountered it again and the more I found out the more I grew interested. Its run of ‘interest’ was quite outstanding First up it was designed by Sir William Rule (the junior surveyor at the time) but had been extensively re-worked by Gambier at the Admiralty to take some more attributes of the Triton. This must have been mortifying for Rule but the resultant ship turned out well. Gardener states The modifications, presumably down to Gambier’s influence, show striking similarities with ideas behind the Triton ordered a month earlier: the extra length gave the ship the greatest length: breadth ratio of any frigate so far designed by the Surveyors, and the raked bow owes something to Triton’s most individual feature. Contrary to accepted wisdom this design-by-committee produced not a camel but a racehorse – in service the Amphion proved fast, weatherly and manoeuvrable, and was particularly good in strong winds. . So it had an interesting origin. I was initially further put off because Goodwin describes it as a fir ship and I have already stated my irrational dislike of fir. Fortunately (along with a mis-captioned Triton as the Amphion in his book) he was wrong and the Amphion was not fur built. Next up the ship had acted briefly as Nelson’s flagship on his way to the Med. I then found it had also transported the Archduke Charles on an abortive trip to Spain. Charles was the Austrians best fighting general so that was in itself an interesting point for me. It was also involved in the treasure ship action where four British frigates intercepted the Spanish treasure fleet under Graham Moore. The Amphion was fighting the Mercedes when she blew up possibly due to fire. So she now could be placed at a pivotal point in the war playing an important part. Moving on she was involved in the chase of the combined fleet to the Caribbean and back though being detached just before Trafalgar. Finally she was Hoste’s flagship at the battle of Lissa of which plenty has been written. All the above gave me plenty of interest but the decider was where she was built. The Amphion matched my pointy A because she was designed to be smaller than most standard frigates because the Admiralty wanted to use shipyards outside of the existing range. I also knew she was built in Essex but just assumed this meant a yard Southend way or on the Thames. When I eventually checked her actual build location (at Mistley) she was actually built on the Stour on the border between Essex and Suffolk very close to Manningtree and Capel. Most of my mother’s family come from (and still live in ) this very region. The possibility of my relatives knowing about her or even working on her were more than any other ship I could think of. The Amphion at Lissa -
  12. About the model: As they say, "No time like the present" and as I'm stalled on Licorne by several non-hobby issues, I'm starting this one to take my mind off things. I have the plans scaled down from 1:48 to 1:64 I'll be drafting plans for building the ship as the ANCRE monograph doesn't have drawings pre-made for such things a frames, keel, etc. As the title states it will be a POB build as there's next to nothing in the plans of the below deck area. I'm making decisions at this point will working on lofting the bulkheads, keel, etc. on the types of woods. Most likely I'll Swiss pear for the external planking, some ebony or ebony stained wood for the wales and other bits and pieces, boxwood for the keel, stern post, and bowspit. Not sure yet about the decks. As for the bulkheads and some internal bits that won't be seen, I'm deciding whether to use Baltic Birch plywood or Yellow Ceder. It may come down to cost on this though. I'll be using the DeathStar for at least marking the wood to be cut for the bulkheads but not ruling out cutting as that will depend on the wood selection. I selected this ship as "next" as it was the more famous of the ships involved in the battle that brought the French into American Revolutionary War. Here's the history of Belle Poule and some pictures of the plans and the monograph. La Belle Poule is a 12-pounder class of frigate with 26 12-pdrs on the gun deck and 10 6-pdrs on the forecastle and sterncastle. History: La Belle Poule was built in the shipyard at Bordeaux starting in 1765 and launched in 1767. \ From 1772 to 1776, she was on hydrographic missions around India. She returned to Brest in 1776 . At the time, France wasn't engaged in War, but there were numerous incidents. April, 1777, Belle Poule was chased by a British ship of the line (unknown which one) and after evading her, returned to Brest. December, 1777, Belle Poule transported Silas Deane back to America along with the news of the French-American Alliance. On 7 January, 1778, she was stopped by two Britich ships of the line which demanded to inspect her and her Captian, Charles de Bernard de Marigny replied: "I am the Belle Poule, frigate of the King of France; I sail from sea and I sail to sea. Vessels of the King, my master, never allow inspections." 17 June, 1778. The famous battle between Belle Poule and Arethusa occurred which was actually celebrated by both countries. It was this battle that brought France into the American Revolutionary War. Note that Licorne was captured by the British. After this battle, she did numerous patrols. 14 July 1780. Belle Poule was overhauled and after a two hour battle with Noncuch (64), she surrendered. Feburary, 1781. Belle Poule was commissioned by the British. She participated in the Battle of Dogger Bank later that year. A footnote is that her Master during this period was William Bligh. November 1782. Belle Poule went to ordinary and also served as a British recieving ship. 1801. She was sold off. Plans, etc. I'm using the following references: Le Belle Poule Monograh by Boudriot and Berti The Art of Ship Modeling by Frolich and lastly, the only build log I could find that actually is showing the process unlike most that just show the finished ship: https://5500.forumactif.org/t3216-la-belle-poule-de-1765-au-1-48-par-guydal Anyway, a bit long winded but I'll be back when I have my cut sheets, plans, etc. ready and start making sawdust.
  13. I've been a member for a few years and followed many builds but not posted any of my own. So far I've built the Constructo USS Albatros and USS Enterprise but wanted to do a scratch built ship. After a lot of wondering which ship to build I decided on HMS Trincomalee. I started the hull and wanted to go and see the real ship in Hartlepool. I was in awe at the size of it. Took loads of pictures for reference and came home oozing with enthusiasm and raring to get on with it. I started this build in May 2017 and pleased to show you all how much I've done so far. I've just spent the last 3 months on and off coppering the hull (it is the most tedious job I've ever done). Finally finished putting just under 2000 tiles on a couple of days ago and because I was impatient to see what it would look like I painted the hull today. Next job is to build the front up
  14. here are some photos of the naiad in construction...
  15. HMS Syrius was a 36 gun fifth rate frigate of the Royal Navy. she was lost in 1810 when her crew scuttled her after she ran aground during the Battle of Grand Port.
  16. hi all I am almost finished with the building plan for the HMDS Perlen , so I decidert to start a buid log for her. all i need to do is the last few frames and the bow filler pieces , and then I be ready to make wood dust.The drawing is made in autocad My plan is to start cutting wood when my 3 week vacation start on april 5 Michael
  17. Well, little did I think a year ago when I started my first wooden ship build that I'd ever be posting in the scratchbuild forum, but here I am. I've been contemplating a scratch build since mid-summer 2013, from looking at all the wonderful scratch builds on MSW and from the amount of scratching I've been doing on my Conny build. I wanted to try a scratch build. I think I have the woodworking skill as I've been building in wood my entire life. The thing I still lack is detailed shipwright knowledge, but I'm learning... The one thing I know for a fact though is a fully detailed POF build is not for me, I don't have the knowledge or time to do so. I bought several books that everyone seems to quote as bibles for wooden shipbuilding, including Goodwin’s "Constructing an English Man of War". Next was selecting a subject to model. I first thought of the HMS Surprise, and bought “The Frigate Surprise” book to do some research. I also thought of buying the Latina 1/48 Surprise kit and scratch-bashing that. I then thought about the Essex. I had been in contact with Sam Cassano about his MSW kit earlier and decided to ask his advice. Not only did he offer any help he could, but also sent me a set of his drawings which I could use as a basis for my build drawings. Sam’s kit is of Essex in her 1799 launch configuration, my attempt at Essex will be as close as I can come to her 1814 configuration at Valparaiso. I bought Portia's AOTS Essex book and "The Frigate Essex Papers" which contain William Baker's wonderful drawings and Josiah Fox's detailed measurements of her from her 1807-09 rebuild. I'd like to thank Sam Cassano and Steve, (Frolick on MSW) for giving me invaluable help on acquiring info and dwgs. My build will be a POB, but with a different twist. One side will be fully planked, but the other side will show her frames from somewhere near the bow to near the stern, and from a point several strakes above the garboard (I haven't determined where yet). The reason I chose this method was to show her frames, but to not have to build all the intricate framing of the keel, floor timbers, deadwood, all cant frames (both bow and stern) etc. There also won’t be any internal details below the gundeck. This may seem to be cheating, or an "easy way out" solution, and I guess it is but for me it's the way to go. I'm achieving this by placing plywood bulkheads at each frame location, but on the frame side I will cut off the ply and glue on hardwood frames, probably Pear. This should give the look of individual frames and their futtocks from the outside, which is what I'm going for. I chose 1/48 as the scale as I wanted to build in a larger scale. It will be a big one, maybe bigger than I want, but 1/48 is what I’m going with. I hope to fully mast and rig her, if I have the years and patience to do so…. I'm drawing my own build drawings, still a lot of work to do, and will post some images when they are far enough along. I am cutting the center bulkhead and bulkhead blanks right now and will post pics when they're done. It’s as much a proof of concept as it is a chance to get started! Some may wonder how I can start building without completed drawings, but I pretty much have the design finished in my mind, I just have to create the dwgs so I can build her. This may be a bumpy ride but we'll see where this goes! Here is William Baker's dwg from 1808 or 9. This is the overall configuration I'm going for. Here is Baker's redrawn lines based on William Hackett's original draughts. This is the dwg I used as the basis of my layout, along with Sam Casanno's dwgs. I used Portia's framing dwg as a guide only. (These are a gif and jpg, resized down from original size so I don't think I'm violating any copyrights by posting them) Edit 4/15. I decided to add a pic here at the very beginning of this log so future readers will know what the heck I'm doing. Here are Essex's frames before I cut them down and sanded them. I now call this method either the "alligator skin" or "Godzilla" method. Looking at the frames before they're trimmed will show you why. Reading through the beginning of the log where I'm just making frames and bulkheads I'm sure had a lot of you stumped as the what the heck I was making. Hopefully this :before and after (frames) will give an idea. Here's the hull after initial fairing. Better, huh? Edit 12/31/15 Here's after cant frames have been added and more fairing done.
  18. This will be my build log for a project I've been building, on and off for some time. The cross section is of the HMS Blandford, a 20 gun Sixth Rate frigate launched in 1720 and represents a small segment of the ship at the level of the main mast. Included are the mast, the well and shot lockers, chain pump as well as elm tree pump details and weather deck details including 2 cannons. The model will be plank on frame with hull planked down to the wales. There are two decks. As I usually do, I hope to use no paint or stain (or at least as little as I can!). The plans are based on "The 20 Gun Ship Blandford" by Peter Goodwin, one of the AOTS series. The plans were drawn by one of my cyber friends, Mike41 who posts here. He did a great job. Although there are some simplifications in the framing (no chocks or scarfs in the hull frames, for example) the plans are fairly close to the AOTS drawings. The second photo shows the cross section's location in longitudinal view.
  19. I will be posting the pictures of my completed scratch build of the Frigate Confederacy. This build was done using Chuck's plans and practicum that he developed for the Model Shipways kit. The woods used for this build are Boxwood, Holly, Swiss Pear, Ebony, Cherry, Bloodwood and some I'm sure I'm forgetting. I know all the comments and naratives are lost but if you have a question ask away and I'll try to remember! This will take a while becuase there were over 300 pictures. Here we go.
  20. The description of my reconstruction you will find here. On Easter Monday the time had finally come. The keel of his majesty's frigate HMS Triton was laid. First the 5 components for the keel were sawn out. I have simplified the design of the joints considerably, as they will be completely covered later on by further components. I will continue to apply this principle during the further construction in order to adapt the building as far as possible to my craftsmanship. The first cliff that had to be overcome is the joint between keel and lower stem. I worked this out with my milling machine and chisels. After I had attached the wrong keel, the joints have to be dowelled. These dowels are a bit too big for the chosen scale, but I cannot draw pear wood thinner than 0.8 mm. I know that many modellers swear by bamboo, but I find pear on the finished model more discreet. I have simulated the caulking with single-ply pulp.
  21. This, being the first day of progress in my effort to scratch build one of the truly great war ships in naval history, I am hopeful that I will be able to do reasonable justice to "Old Iron Sides". I should begin with thanks to Tom ("usedtosail") and John ("mundie") for their valuable assistance in helping me get up and running on this project. Folks like these guys are a perfect example of what makes MSW such a great community. One quick note about scale.... A new experience for me has been the task of changing the scale of plan sheets - in this case, from 1:76.8 to 1:60. Many of my friends being aware of my initial thoughts of building the Connie at a scale of 1:50th. Then after receiving the plan sheets I discovered that the size of the model, as designed by Model Shipways, is already very large....and that converting the scale to 1:50th was pretty much unreasonable. Playing around with scale for a couple of days led to a conclusion that 1:60th is about the maximum size I can reasonably do. Why not just build her at the plan scale? For a scratch builder, "bigger is better" in terms of creating detail.... So, for what it's worth, here we go "splishing and asplashing"!
  22. Hello everyone ! My name is Patrick, 64, retired for 4 years soon and living in Poissy, a small town located 30 km west of Paris. I have been watching your works on this forum for several years now and as some of my compatriots are doing, I would like to show you a project I started four years ago : a French frigate named "La Renommée". I work from a monograph by Jean BOUDRIOT, the scale is 1/48. At this stage, I just finished the hull and I will show you some pictures without too many comments, the pictures speaking for themselves ... and moreover, my "English" is a bit "rusty". I will go in stages, to condense 4 years of work in a few days of publication. So let's go ... [/url Patrick
  23. Hi, this is my new project. It's a kind of a sequel, following my HMS Diana. 1)What is to be expected : - Let's begin with what is NOT to be expected. I have the deepest admiration whenever I go through those wonderful buildlogs ( fully framed models, admirality models,...you name it) but I'm afraid these pieces of art are totally beyond my skills. - Why semi-scratch : lots of accessories ( gunnery, belaying pins,....) were already purchased through the available market - Why La Vénus . I like her lines but above all : I like frigates. - Why 1/64 ; I upscaled or downscaled ? the 1/72 plans because I wanted to put her aside my Diana 2)Roadblocks ? Quite easy : a lot of things still need to be figured out. So bear with me Here's the pics of the present status. But photo's are available since the beginning of this project. So the next coming days updates (or flash backs) are to be expected
  24. This ship caught my attention the first time I saw the plans because it had a white flag. Laughed a bit until I researched it. But then the lines caught my eye. She's a 32 gun, frigate of the 8 pound gun class. A bit of history... built 1755 in Brest. Not too much in the way of history available except for some highlights: 1756 - Carried troops to Quebec. 1757 - with Marsaint's divsion on the 21 Oct. A "most bloody conflict" with the British off Santo Domingo. No ships lost on either side, but a high casualty count. 1762 - expeditions against British shipping and the Sale pirates. 1778 - she was part of a small fleet in company with Le Belle Poule, Hirondelle and Le Coureur. They ran into Keppel's squadron. Licorne as surrounded and captured. La Belle Poule had a famous two-hour duel with the British and escaped to a nearby bay.For the next five years it was known as HMS Licorne in the British Navy. 1783 - Sold out of the service. From the plans, it appears to be a good beginner scratchbuild. Clean lines, minimal carving. Some things from the Hahn plans needs changing such as the mast caps and the cannon rigging. I'm still researching via Boudriot and Frolich. I'm planning on completely planking her, but that may change. Anyway, I ordered a bunch of Hahn's plans a few years ago out of curiousity... guess I was walking down the primrose path to the minefield and here's where I've landed. Not knowing what to order in the way of wood.. I guessed and ordered the wood for the Confederacy from The Lumberyard since both are 3/16" scale. Blew it a bit.. keel on the Confed is 1/4", on the Licorne... 3/16", same for the frames.. Luckily, I have a thickness sander... unluckily.. that's a rather large pile of wood. But, I'm happy. I'll make the frames a tad thicker and order some 3/16" sheet for the keel, etc. Next time.. I'll study the plans closer. So... here's where my build begins. Started by scanning and copying all the plans as blueline prints fade with time. Laid out but not cut the building board. I've enclose pic of what I've built to date: Pics of the Famous Ed Measuring Tool and my frame jig. Pic of some of the framing wood with my thickness sander (daunting in person). And lastly.. a work in progress... my shipwright. Currently looks like Krylon the Cylon, but he'll get better. Once he's finished, I'll properly name him and start building frames. Due to the website crash, all the descriptive stuff is gone. I'll post all the pics to-date and then start text, etc. on my next post.
  25. Hello again MSW, After finishing my first build (Constellation) by AL I finally decided on a second adventure. I finally mustered up the courage and decided to do a scratch build of the HMS Leopard. I had come across the plans and for a first scratch build it seemed to have all the ingredients to test my abilities. There seemed to be plenty of information available to guide me along with my MSW friends so I went for it. Naturally, I have the 50 Gun Ship book by Rif Winfield. I took the 1:96 plans that came with it and enlarged them up to 1:85 scale. The 1:96 was just a bit small to me. I scaled it up to 1:72 and it was bigger than I have room for so I split the difference and ended up at 1:85... same as my Constellation. Working in an engineering office, I have access to the CAD program Solidworks so I transferred the 1:96 measurements from the drawing to the CAD and just played with the scale until I liked it. I have been researching, planning and drawing frames for the past month so there is not much to show at this point. Scratch building is forcing me to learn tons of information on ship building practices which is not a bad thing. My plan is to build the model with both frames and bulkheads. The reason is I want to cut away the center area of the hull on one side to show some of the Orlop and Lower deck arrangements. I figured I have the plans/layouts so why not use them. I will use frames in the area of the cutout and bulkheads on both ends since these areas will not be seen inside. Below is a sketch of my thoughts. The area inside the heavy outline will be the cut away area. Here also are some pics of the frame work I am playing with now. Band saws and belt sanders will be busy! Next is to design the fore and aft bulkheads and the deadwood layout. If I do this right, the summer when the shipyard is open as much, will be spent designing and roughing out the skeleton. Then when the New England winter sets in I will have plenty to keep me busy. Hope you enjoy the build, Tom
×
×
  • Create New...