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  1. Plans glued to decks to aid shaping of hull. Section lines marked on hull. Section line templates created for shaping the hull. Beginning to shape the stern. Rough shaping of stern.
  2. As I write this, contractors work downstairs doing a kitchen and living room renovation. Since I have to stay out of the way, I decided to work on a model. This is my first build log. I intended to use another model for that. However, we some times have to go with the flow. This will let me get my feet wet in the process of logs. I have an unconventional workspace for this project since so much stuff is in storage during the reno work. I am working on an end table while sitting on the floor or bent over from a chair. I find it hard to work on the model for very long. However, the steps are relatively short. The model I chose comes from Metal Earth (Link). They produce models of many items, genres, and scales. They have a few ship models in their portfolio. When I bought the kit that includes the Monitor and the Merrimack, I thought the model an interesting interpretation and concept. The number of tools needed for their models is minimal: cutters, needle nosed pliers, and tweezers. Add in some form of work magnifier and good lighting. And while the packaging says, “no glue required,” the key word is ‘required’ but with a caveat. (More on this later.) That answers the question, why this model at this time, which is good question to ask yourself before a building project. Additionally, I had assembled a previous model (Golden Hind) from Metal Earth. That process went well with decent results. I also want to point out that while the models have a sense of authenticity, I am building it for display over historical accuracy. As a point of interest to some: I paid $25.00 (US) at a game/hobby shop for this model of the Monitor and Merrimac. As I start posting I am up to step 9 of 29 steps outlined in the instructions. So, I will have some hindsight and previews of upcoming parts. I will 'post' with logical breaks in the flow so it's not one long thread. This is such a stop point.
  3. Started this kit and it has proven to be tougher than the Artesania Latina Whale boat so far. The box says it’s from 1982! The wood quality doesn’t seem to be as good. Instead of the pieces being laser cut, they are more pressed, so I’ve had to use my mini jig saw at times. The keel was badly warped and quit a few of the ribs were too. I soaked them warm water and ironed them flat. I soaked the deck too before temporarily pinning it in place. I almost didn’t start this but I figured what the hey, if I really mess up it was given to me and it’s all a learning process anyway! I have the keel secured with the rips and the false deck is secured also. I’ve started forming the front and back wood forms. I’ve been using a combo of cynoacrylic and wood glue to fix the pieces in place.
  4. Hi everyone and welcome to my log of Artesania Latina’s kit of the Virginia 1819. I have wanted to build two ships for a long time; the Bounty as I have always been fascinated by the story, and the Liveship Paragon from the Robin Hobb fantasy novels. Having no experience in using wood, (my experience is in plastic modelling - aircraft, German WW2 armour, Tamiya's Tirpitz, scifi ships, model railroading, and even some Warhammer figures) I decided to start with a beginners kit to see how well I fared before shelling out for something complicated. I got the kit from De Agostini as a partwork. As I work on the kitchen table I also purchased the Occre workstation early on in the build. This kit was started about 3 years ago but I’m a slow builder, especially as I tend not to build in the summer months - so this log is an incentive to be finished by this summer! The early part of the build was done under the assumption that this was a real boat, however the further into the build I got I soon realised that this is a kit based on “the kind of boat made during the period”, and is very simplified. I have made a few changes based on trying to get a bit more detail and “accuracy”. I hope I haven’t made too many mistakes…… The false keel and bulkheads. Pretty standard fare - the correct alignment made easier by gluing the bulkheads to the false keel and the false deck at the same time. Balsa wood was used to fill between the bulkheads at the bow and stern. I applied a couple of coats of 50/50 diluted aliphatic carpenters glue to harden the balsa after it had been shaped. Decking applied, the caulking represented by the use of a black sharpie pen, luckily no bleeding but I think black was too stark so I’d probably use a dark brown next time. Planking the hull. I used a plank bender (the one that puts indents on the inner face) and pinned while the glue set. By changing the angle of the plank bender to the plank you can get a twist as well as a bend. The pins were pushed in at an angle to push the plank towards its neighbour. Filler was applied where needed and the bulwarks attached. These were thin enough to bend easily, again pinned while the glue set. The hull was then sanded down and the keel, stern post and cutwater? added.
  5. This is my first wooden model ship build. This was gifted to me last year and I am just now starting it. I have spent hours looking through some of the other build logs on this site, they are incredibly helpful, especially the pictures. I thought I'd document my progress in order to help others and maybe get additional help as well. This is a new hobby for me, so I'm looking forward to growing my skills. Thanks in advance for reading, enjoy!
  6. Hello everyone. This is my first model ship kit and - after running into a snag (more on that in a bit) - I found this forum. I was encouraged to start a build log. I received this kit a few years ago from my father-in-law. He finished a similar kit while he was in medical school, and he thought it would be a good project for me while I was finishing my doctoral thesis. Unfortunately, the thesis took the front seat and I never had a chance to start the kit. Fast forward five years, we're all stuck at home and I no longer have an excuse. I began this kit around the end of March, so I'm around two months into it at this point. I won't belabor a discussion on the Virginia - I can see that there are plenty of descriptions on this site. Suffice to say - it is apparently not a model of any real ship, but rather an imagining of a common type of ship of the era. It's a very pretty kit, and the quality seems to be rather high for the most part (though I have no other kit to judge from). For a "novice" kit, the documentation is rather lacking and uses ship lingo heavily, though this has been nice to force me to learn everything. Anyway, to the build. Here you can see the false keel and a bundle of the raw materials - mostly ramin, applewood, and mahogany. Here it is partway through decking. I chose to go with a simple decking pattern, and marked the sides of the laths with pencil. I was not very consistent with the deck lengths at this stage, unfortunately, which is noticeable later on. Next up was putting on the first layer of pieces on the hull. I did not find that any heat was necessary - soaking the pieces in warm water for 30 minutes was enough to provide the elasticity to match the proper curve. Of note: I hammered the brads in the entire way rather than nipping off. This made things a bit harder later on when filing smooth, but was not a huge issue (for any future builders). With the first layer down, I filed and sanded smooth, and filled in anything large cracks with a homemade putty (there was plenty of sawdust...). This was required mostly along the border of where the bulwarks were attached. I don't have any pictures, but the bulwarks did not quite match the curvature (you can see a bit of the putty job to the far right). Here is the transom - note that I attached the keep prior putting the mahogany on, so as to assure that the mahogany abutted the keel perfectly. Note that I left plenty of overhang for the stern post (I think this may be a common error in this build, more on it later). I did not bend my transom to have a curve, and instead opted to go flat. I regret this somewhat, as the slight curve is nice - but that bird has flown. And a few pictures mid-way with the mahogany: And finally finished (here you can see most of the deck fittings and the rudder). The stern post is now fitted, and the transom does not hang past it much. If you cut the keel flush with the stern, then the stern post will sit too low and the transom will jut out past the stern post - creating issues when attaching the rudder. I believe this to be in error. I've read a few build posts that state this is a flaw in the kit, but I contend that it is an error in the build - I have no issues with fitting everything in as-is at this point. On to the railings. The kit recommends cutting the applewood struts to 14mm and 17mm, but this requires a substantial amount of filing/sanding (which would be required for leveling anyway) and thus plenty of breaking off struts and re-gluing. If I did it again, I would opt for something more like 11mm and 16mm, which is much closer to the final height. You can also see that I've added in the applewood rubbing strakes at this point, as well. ...and here I've glued on the pieces for the helmsman's traction. You can also see some pieces I've added to the transom - unfortunately, I broke the transom internally while sanding. It left no visible damage on the ramin veneers, but it was loose. I cut a couple of rib stiffeners made out of scrap applewood and tried to make them look purposeful. They did the trick (adapt, right?). Here you can see the stiffeners again - the transom is solid and no longer wobbles. I've begun to put the railing on at this stage. Here there does seem to be an error with the kit - the curvature of the railing is far greater than the curvature of the bulwarks and thus the railing struts - so much so that I do not believe I have made an error. I have adapted by tracing the curvature of the top of the struts onto paper, connecting with a french curve, and chopping the railings (originally two pieces) into four pieces to better match the curvature. You can also see in this photo that I've attached the hawses. Fast forwarding to the current stage: ...and this is where I currently am. Of note: some of the deck fittings were pre-cast (such as the bowspirit masthead columns,). They did not look great, so I opted to make them out of wood instead. Same with the water pump handle, the anchor tie-offs, and the carronade quoin. I may fashion a piece for the rudder, as well. At this point, I have glued everything to the deck. This is how I discovered the forum, because reading on I have discovered that I should have applied finish before gluing anything on the deck. I do not have much glue squeeze out at all, so I think I am just going to apply spray-on satin poly and hope for the best, and will wipe on any poly carefully in places that coverage is poor. I will likely remove all of the brass fittings and attempt to blacken a bit - as they have not been glued (except for the "foremast spanker sheet" - the large piece near the cargo hatch - it has been glued in and will remain brass!). I will likely leave the brass brads in the rubbing strake, as I like the sheen there and don't want to weather them at all I hope the poly will cover them fine.
  7. First build log for first ship attempt. Already planked realizing I should create a log to document it! So far I found planking to be pleasantly challenge. Love the fact that if you take your time, most mistakes can be sanded out! I minimized the number of nails when I planked and pulled many out after glue dried (tightbond capenter's glue and cy to "spot weld" when needed). I've got the rubbing strakes on and now working on the railing. Need to give a shout out to DocBlake for his keel clamp. I followed his sample images substituting wingnuts because I had them available. Awesome clamp!
  8. I bought this kit a few months ago from HobbyTown, not knowing a thing about this hobby, and got a few tools I thought I would need. I’ve used them all so far, and gathered many more tools. Two boat kits later, I feel experienced enough to tackle this ship. The instructions on CD are mainly visual, but it’s gotten me through so far. I may be missing a couple timbers, but thankfully it seems all the hardware is here. I had intended to build the Bounty Launch from Model Shipways next, but I ran into trouble early into that kit. By comparison, this kit has been very easy. I find working with nails much easier than trying to glue all those planks. As before, I’ve had a little trouble tidying up the stern and the bow, but I am gratified to learn that I am improving. The fully planked hull. On one side of the hull I used perfectly sanded and beveled planks to join up the center. But on this side I just used scraps of wood, dust, and glue to fill it in, then sanded it down to shape. This is where I am at present, with the gunwales and transom installed. I have begun veneering the hull, and hope to hang the rudder sometime this weekend. I am about a week into this project, I think it will take me another week to build the railing and deck furniture, and another week to do rigging and sails. It’s coming together much faster than I anticipated! Let me know your thoughts.
  9. I am looking to populate my "Virginia" ship models. The scale is 1:41. Are there places that sell that size and have figures from the late 1800s to the early 1900s? So far i have only found modern navy What would the closest mm size be? Would 1/32 work
  10. I bought this kit off of ebay, and it was already started. I had to remove the #12 deck planking from the sides. And taper down some pieces with sand paper to get the right curvature. The deck was put on, but it really doesn't look good. The worst part, sadly is that a few of the hull framing pieces have been glued in incorrectly, as much as 5mm off true. This may or may not cause some problems. If anyone has any advice on how to straighten these pieces, or a fix, please let me know.
  11. I had picked up this kit online and was very excited to start working on it but unfortunately I only got as far as the framing up of the hull and the decking before many things got in the way that caused me to shelve it until now. The last step I finished was to add the deck planks but this is where one of my many questions start. The instructions say to lay the boards full length and then pencil in all the details which I originally had done. However I see that most guys elect to cut the planks to length and then install them which I've decided to do as well so I removed the strips and am starting over. My question is that of length. How long should the planks be. I haven't found any reference as of yet. Please advise.
  12. Hello, This is my first model ship build and my first post here on Model Ship World. I built a lot of plastic models as a kid, but got away from the modeling hobby by the time I got to college (more years ago than I would like to admit 😀). I do a bit of woodworking, and got back into building RC planes about 10 years ago, so thought I would try my hand at a model ship. I started the project several years ago. I got to the point of adding the second layer planking and then got distracted by some other projects (including building a rocking horse and other toys for my new grandson). Last week, I picked the project up again. I thought I would post my progress here, and hopefully pick up few tips from others who are much more experienced than I. Here are pictures of my progress. Planking under way. I was a bit apprehensive, but the first layer planking in went reasonably well. First lay planking complete. Not perfect, but overall, I was satisfied with the results (for my first attempt). Note: Sorry for the aspect ratio. Is there a way to rotate images in a post (I could not find one). Deck planking came out much better than I expected. This is more or less where I left off. I have been working on the second layer planking for the last couple of weekends, and will post my progress there a little later.
  13. Here we go. The Virginia 1819 from Artesania Latina. I chose this one because it seemed like a good kit for a beginner. This first post is just a little overview and my first impressions of the kit. Here are a few shots of the components. I like how the small wood and metal pieces come in a nice plastic box, rather than in bags. The planks are... not exactly what I expected. The planks for the first planking are thicker than what I was expecting, while the planks for the second layer are really thin. It seems like bending the first layer of planks will be a challenge, and I think I'll have lots of questions when I get to that point. I already spotted a few minor typos in the instructions, but the most noticeable problem is this messed up rigging diagram in the fold-out plans. Fortunately, I found that the copy of this sheet available for download from Artesania Latina's website doesn't have this issue. I checked through the parts list and most everything was clear, with the exception of the apple wood and mahogany wood pieces. These came in several strips with very slightly different dimensions between them. It took a little while to sort out which was which. I made some labels so I would be able to identify them later. That's it for now. I hope to get the actual building started tomorrow.
  14. This is my first wooden model, so bear with me 🙂 A while back I started to look for a suitable beginner model. I chose a fore-and-aft rigged schooner — simply because I like them — and it is easier than full-rigged ships to start with (or so I heard). I read through many nice MSW build logs here and decided to go with the Artesania Latina’s schooner Virginia 1819. The model instructions were not very thorough or detailed for a beginner and some illustrations were unreadable. No worries, MSW builders had it figured out: e.g. Trufo had posted nice drawings for the rigging: The corrected AL instructions are also available thanks to Ramzister: To fill in the gaps in the instructions, I’ve found invaluable guidance at MSW and Mastini’s book ”Ship Modelling Simplified”. Another drawback: there is a known issue with the rudder. It does not fit as per the instructions. Some builders fixed the rudder, some fixed the stern post, or even the transom. I was thinking to make at least a new sternpost. Another alternative might be to drill the rudder post directly through the deck counter instead of passing the tiller through the transom. This idea I got when reading Chapelle’s Fishing Schooners book. I don’t know if I’m able do it, we will see. I may also try out some modifications where needed. As this is my first wooden build, I try to keep it simple and learn the basics first before getting into the deep water. After reading MSW build logs, guides and videos I felt ready to start building my boat. Here goes.
  15. Hi all, Regretting not taking more pics during the build process but heres my finished Virginia. Started this as a first model with the aim to learn as much as possible. All up its been a very pleasurable 7 month project and has given me a basic grounding in the various aspects of model ship building. Prior to this i had built several RC model racing yachts, and in the distance past several small full size craft, still it this contained many steep learning curves. Unlike others, I found the kit to be of all good quality timber, while the rigging process had me ordering more blocks and dead eyes, the latter of which were of poorer quality than the rest of the kit. Again unlike others ive read about, I had no trouble with the documentation for the hull build. Its a bit sparse in some areas but those holes were usually filled by research online and the fact that there are quiet a few build logs for his kit. The rigging guide (if you can call single sheet that) on the other hand was rubbish. The rigging while the most daunting part for me was something i really enjoyed, and when a few million hours of procrastination finally transformed into doing something. Attached are some pics, if i can find more ill post them. As for a next build? a le Renard or Le Cerf...a bit bigger overall and these types I find very attractive.
  16. Hi Everyone, After completing a couple of 15.00 Amazon wooden models, i am sure we all know the ones. I Purchased the Virginia 1819. Long story short My Cardiologist suggested I find a hobby to help me relax. After a Week cruising around the New England Islands and visiting many maritime museums the idea came to me. "Why not a model Ship" Being my first "Real" Model, I did make a few mistakes. one big mistake. i used the deck wood for the hull and really did not figure this out until the hull was done. CRAP!!! then i found Model Ship World and thanks to all the Virginia 1819 Builders. you made it a lot easier. Here are some photos. Next Up is the Belem 1896 6
  17. Hi! I upload pictures of my construction, unfortunately I was not so successful building the wooden poles of the ship's body, see a picture of the front. I'll fix it by adding some pieces of wood. Roni
  18. I decided to take the plunge to see if I could put together a wooden model ship kit. Apparently it's in my genes. My great grandfather once acquired blueprints from the Library of Congress to build a scale version of the Sovereign of the Seas. I'm definitely not reaching that high yet. Alas, I'm also not one to start with something simple. Nope. I like to know I'll get a challenge or two and expand my selection of colorful metaphors when confused. I went with the Artesania Latina Virginia 1819 kit. I really enjoy the look of it and thought it might reside in my office at work. So here she is thus far. I'm taking my time and enjoying figuring out how something is done. For instance, I looked at different ways to approach the deck planks. I opted to avoid going with the long deck planks. Rather, I went with 10mm sections and at first tried to alternate placement to give it a more realistic look but somehow I lost my place. Thus, it's a wee bit off. That's okay. I figured this is the ship I'm going to learn on so there will be more mistakes. In the end I'll look at it like I look at my woodworking projects: "complete with flaws and awl." Now I'm reading about soaking wood planks and other options for planking the hull. Think I'm going to soak a plank, bend it into place while damp, and clamp it into place letting it stay like that overnight. The next day I'll unclamp it, glue it, and tack it down. It'll be slower but from what I'm seeing on other posts that seems to be a good method. We'll see. Many thanks for looking!
  19. Good Evening - I'm Dave and this is my first build. I've been wanting to take on this challenge for years and finally got a kit a year or two ago. The kit has finally come off the shelf and Im ready to get going! There's several build logs which I have poured over and another person that has recently started the same build - Im glad there is plenty of resources to look to as I get started! The Kit and workbench: So first question... looking through the cutouts, I noticed the false keel is somewhat bent. If a lay it on the table and hold down one side, the opposite side is about 6mm off the table: I've looked through forums and found a few discussions with various methods to correct with seemingly various degrees of success. I also have the book Ship Modeling from Stem to Stern by Milton Roth which suggests wrapping the piece in plastic wrap with a "small piece of cotton placed out of the way" and then leaving it under weight for a day. In all cases it seems I need to dampen the wood and then hold it in the correct position for a while. The plastic wrap keeps it moist but Im a little doubtful the cotton placed out of the way will properly distribute moisture to the whole piece. Any suggestions on best method? Is this necessary or can it be corrected as the build progresses? Anyway, plenty of time to straighten out the keel issue... When asked for Christmas stocking stuffers all I could think of was tools and supplies needed for this build. Of course now I have to wait a few weeks before I get my clamps and squares and etc to really get going... I suppose it will be a lesson in patience that will serve me well through this project. More to come! Dave
  20. I have recently started building the Virginia 1819 Schooner from Artesania Latina. Having started building and flying (often crashing and rebuilding) RC aircraft, I decided to try my hand at modeling my other passion, ships. I have spent a lot of time working on traditional vessels ("Tall Ships") and so I am very excited to be able to actually build a model of one on my own. I have sort of skipped ahead and did not take many pictures at the beginning of my build but I have been perusing the forums and have been so impressed with the wealth of information here. It is exciting to see so many different ways to do things like deck planking. The bulkheads and deck are all set. Starting to plank after soaking the planking. Planking progresses. The instructions have the builder nailing each plank into the bulkheads. I nailed but also have been using CA and tacking each bulkhead to each plank as I go. I alternated port and starboard sides and although I should have used some measuring device, the old eyeball seemed to work out quite well. I have yet to sand the first layer of planking but with another to add it seems like it will smooth itself out quite nicely. I was actually pleasantly surprised by how the shape turned out almost symmetrical.
  21. This was my first experience with model boat building . I randomly choose this model and got addicted !!. It took my 4 months and the did the Lady Nelson. So here is my journey along the way. Current Build: BlueNose II - Artesenia Latina Previous Builds: HMAV Bounty 1787 - Amati; Lady Nelson - Victory Models. Next build : Amerigo Vespucci 1:84 - Panart
  22. Hi All, After having been away from the hobby for a while I purchased the combined USS Monitor and CSS Virginia kits from Bluejacket. I completed the USS Monitor and a build log if it can be seen here: Now moving on to the CSS Virginia. It is a noticeably more complex kit than the Monitor but of equally high quality. The hull is well formed and the various metal pieces come in a nice segregated and sealed bag. The plans are also well drawn and quite descriptive. Thanks to @MrBlueJacket and company for again making a great kit. Looking forward to getting into the thick of building it. The kit contains a number of individual metal pieces all nicely packaged. I couldn't resist setting the completed USS Monitor next to the bare hull of the CSS Virginia for scale.
  23. I will be building the CSS Virginia (ex-Merrimac) model. When finished, it will be 17 1/2" long. The instructions start with a nice bit of history on the ship:
  24. Hello Everyone and Happy New Year! Over the past couple of days, I've begun my restoration of this old model. At the outset I didn't know how much, if any, of the rigging could be saved, but after some time with it I decided to cut it all out and start over. Where the spars are broken, it had become hopelessly tangled. As well many of the knots were letting go and the lines felt very brittle, so I spent the better part of a day of examining it and making copious notes before I cut it all out. Next on the list was a thorough cleaning of the deck and hull. It was coated in decades of dust. In the process, some additional damage occurred, but in many ways, I'm better off having it all happen now as it's easier to repair then it would be later. The type of thing I'm talking about here is fife rails coming loose and the edging on the hatches and the roof on the skylight coming off. These were made with cardstock, so I'll replace them with some 1/32" wood. I salvaged all of the blocks, deadeyes etc. by soaking them in some rubbing alcohol and releasing them from the lines. I've taken stock of the repairs that have to be made - the main one is the chunk that's broken out of the port side bulwarks, some missing railing, missing cathead, broken jibboom, broken tressle trees on the main mast, fife rails, hatch trim and skylight roof, as well as return the cannons. When I received the model, over half the cannons were missing. However, over Christmas, I saw the friend who gave me the model and he had found them, so I have the full compliment. I'm particularly fond of the deck on this model, so I am going to give it a coat of polyurethane to protect if from the likely possibility of paint, glue and/or coffee being spilled on it. I had hoped at the outset that I would only be doing very minor touch ups, but the closer I look, the more I realize I will need to do. I think I will have to repaint virtually the whole model. For example, take a look at the photo of the yard below. I just can't return it with the white tip looking like that. That's a combination of a sloppy glue job plus 60 years of dust and cigarette smoke. David the major damage is this break. Thankfully, the piece is not missing the skylight roofs and hatch trim are made of cardstock example of how it needs to be cleaned up soaking the blocks etc. loose the rigging stripped off - no turning back now the deck is almost clean now, notice how the cardstock pieces did not survive the cleaning
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