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  2. The lower counter was planked with laser cut strakes. One thing I noticed on other projects is that some folks find it tricky to bend or cut these strakes to the proper curve. This is very important because it determines the shape of the upper counter and thus the quarter gallery etc....and it just compounds from there. So these strakes are laser cut. I started with the top of the counter and worked my way lower where the final pieces were placed on either side of the stern post. This will be covered over with a frieze but I added simulated caulking anyway. I wanted to test how much would be used elsewhere. Running a pencil along one edge of the joint was perfect. The wales were stated and this is another crucial moment. The run of this first plank will determine a lot. The etched marks and references I made after running the batten were used to line up the bottom of the first strake. I added this first strake with the hull upside down using 7/32" x 3/64" strips of cedar. I still made adjustments after I finished the strake to try and get a smooth run. I dont care about using a pencil to simulate tared seams on these. This is just the first layer. I used the plans to determine where the butt joints fall (4 butt shift). I added this lower wale strake on both sides before working my up to complete them. All four strakes for the wales are 7/32" wide. Then it was just a matter of adding three more strakes above that one. Note how there is no caulking but each strake was carefully added so the seams were nice and tight. I did have to pre bend the lower two strakes of the wales at the bow edgewise. This was done as an alternative to spiling the curved shape needed at the bow. Its the only way you will get the planks to lay flat against the bulkhead edges. I used a hold-down jig in the center as the pivot point which has a slight curve to it. Then I clamp the plank on either side after bending it as needed. Note the scrap wood pieces used to help prevent the soft cedar from denting. As usual I uses a hair dryer on the hottest setting to heat up the strip and then let it cool down before removing it. The curve you need is very slight. No need to over bend these yet. The first layer of wales on the starboard side are completed...all four strakes. Now to complete the other side. Chuck
  3. Christos, drawings for galleys you kind find on the database of the Rigsarkivet-Orlogsvaervet (Danish National Archives - Naval Shipyard): https://www.sa.dk/ao-soegesider/da/other/index-creator/40/3353816/17149179 from No. G 4570 (scroll down) on. It is a bit tedious to work with the digital archive, as there is no preview and the drawings take time to load. There are dozens of drawings of galley from the 18th to the 19th century. In some cases also the way of how the stove pipe is led through the deck is indicated. Sometimes it looks a bit like the one HERMIONE, but in other cases it may have been something like a grating around it. The stove pipes would have been either copper or sheet iron, but in both cases rivetted. There was no welding at the time and soldering would have not withstood the temperatures possibly.
  4. Thank you Jim very much appreciated, when/what angle defines that a nibbling is required
  5. All righty then Carl, you showed us the carrot, where is the build?? Or did Gregs talk about Bears and Roos and Sharks give you the nighttime willies? Sam
  6. They live in the cities ...???  They are called politicians and bureaucrats in the Northern Hemisphere Carl. Sam
  7. I'll be starting my first build, a Model Shipways Bluenose in a few weeks, so I'll be following your build closely. Looks really nice so far, thanks for posting.
  8. @Bob Cleek Dear Bob, thank you again for your quick response and very informative comments. Saying "iron" I was actually thinking of the stove's cast iron. It seems to me that the stove manufacturer would have used the same material also for the stove's roof (duct panel). So a cast iron panel -not a welded one- appeared to me the natural material to be used. Also Ballu in the above picture, specifies copper, but only for the two chimneys. And that maybe was more appropriate in case the two chimneys could really swivel according to the wind direction.... the copper would have made chimney swivel lighter (due to its lighter weight than the cast iron). Thank you again for shearing so much on this very interesting issue. Christos
  9. Today
  10. Hi folks Many thanks for all of your comments and feedback. Much appreciated. Well...here we are; marching towards completion. A sad time for me, as I always tend to ‘grieve’ (for want of a better term), whenever a model is nearing completion. I don’t know about you, but it’s hard to put an end to something that you’ve worked on for so long. Anyhow, I’ve just been tinkering around the edges over the past few days; adding a tweak here and there. I’ve really only got the rudders and propellers, as well as some more painting (particularly the underwater hull), and a few touch ups here and there to go and then finito! Also, a good clean up wouldn’t go astray, too. Damn dust and dirt! Here’s what Genesis looks like so far. Have a great week. Cheers Patrick
  11. This might be worth trying out. It's not a failure so long as you can eat the leftovers. http://islandblacksmith.ca/2015/10/making-sokui-rice-paste-glue/
  12. Hi James, You're doing a great job! I too am a Bob Hunt alumnus and to be honest, I could never have grasped the process of building these models without him. I started with his Armed Virginia Sloop practicum and moved directly into the USS Consitution. After that I found I didn't need them any longer, as I was able to work on my own. Most of my models have been MS and I believe that you can basically throw the instruction book away. (Chuck Passaro's excepted.) Everything you need is on the plans, but they are absolutely dense with information and it takes a bit of experience to learn how to decipher them. You're off to a great start and it looks to me like you've have a fine Bluenose when you're done. David
  13. Wait a minute while the stagehands get me back in this harness thing here... Well, this is a guess, really, but the answer would depend upon the period, I'd expect. Back then, the sheet copper would be used for larger stovepipe heat sinks like the one shown on the large vessel above (which is of a type I've never seen before) because copper would have been far easier to work into shape with the corners sealed with lead solder. Welding wasn't really common until WWII with iron plate being welded before then. Until the Bessemer process came along in the second half of the 19th Century, iron and steel were relatively expensive to manufacture. Copper was much less expensive in those times than it is now, relatively speaking. Iron would have been much heavier than copper and prone to rust. More than anything else, the prices of these metals are subject to the laws of supply and demand. While Bessemer's steel-making process dramatically lowered the cost of manufacturing steel from iron, a metal that is easily mined in many places, the cost of copper, a metal more rare than iron, increased far more than iron and steel when electricity came into common use and created a vastly increased new demand for copper, one that has not let up even to the present time.
  14. We may be at cross purposes here. I have put all the blocks etc on the yards so they are done. I have yet to do the standing rigging on the ship but I can't remember or know if it is better to attach the sails to the yards first and then attach the yards to the masts fully loaded as it were.
  15. More progress made this morning main decking done starting to build upper decks ect pretty happy with the deck
  16. Thanks, Dick. I'll try that. Makes a lot of sense. Steven 😁 By the way, I liked your hatches. Solid ones, because they didn't have to disperse cannon smoke (which is from what I've read, the reason for gratings in later hatch covers).
  17. Yeah mate I agree fit out all rigging and blocks first i find it makes life easier Cheers snowy
  18. Check out Michael Mott's build logs, he describes a neat gadget to hold yards etc. for fitting out. I think it would be near impossible to do a good and clean job fitting out the yards when up - apart from a stiff neck and strained muscles in the arms ...
  19. Today it finaly arrived. My next project. Master Korabel, Tender AVOS exclusive kit. It looks super nice! I'm So excited😀
  20. I don't know anything about this particular ship and how the rigging-plan was developed. However, running the main-stay down to the base of the foremast and having a fore gaff-sail together seems to me rather unsual. I would expect the main-stay to go down to the cap of the fore-mast. Then the gaff would clear the stay underneath. The square sail should clear the gaff, but would need probably some sort of brails to lift the sheets over the stay - the sheets are drawn above correctly with one leg hanging over the main-stay. In the current arrangement, when tacking, the fore-sail would need to be clewed-up to the gaff/mast and then the sheet lifted over the stay, which would be rather awkward. As only one sheet is drawn, it would need to be unfastened and fastened again. A rather strange arrangement. However, the early 19th century (which is the period of the ship in question, I believe), was a period of experimentation and not all arrangements were fully thought through, I suppose.
  21. Hull structure completed, frames tapered and ready for first planking. Picture attached. This is my first Mantua kit. The materials quality appears to be very good -- the frames and keel went together perfectly. The instructions and plans sort of skim things at a high level, however, so I'm glad this wasn't my first (or even my third) kit. Lots of interpretation and prior experience judgment needed. Regards, David
  22. I am the reverse of this, I really struggle to hold the yard whilst dressing it so fit to the mast and then fit all blocks and finally sails.
  23. Thank you both. I know I have done this before but I had forgotten how to do it!! I think by 'dressing the yards' you mean attaching all the pulleys etc in which case I have done all that and they will be ready to go on. I feel sure that by attaching the sails to the yards first that part is easier and that means all the running rigging is done with the sails on which I guess makes sense.
  24. Thanks for the many replies and comments. Just to add my experience with the saw since I bought it several weeks ago: I did a lot of cuts with various types of wood. I mainly used it for making wood filler between frames and for constructing supports in a slipway. Thus no work with the need to be very precise. There were no problems to do straight cuts with a precision of about 0.5 mm in wood pieces up to 20 mm thickness. The only problem I had was doing angular cuts with small wood pieces. I glued the pieces on longer sticks and fixed the miter gauge accordingly. It worked. I would strongly agree that a saw is dangerous. The protection system of the NovelLife is not the best one. Moreover, it sometimes interferes with handling because you cannot hold the wood sufficiently when the protection system is mounted. The speed of the saw can be varied by adjusting the power supply which is comfortable when handling different types of wood. But it probably makes no ´difference when cutting your finger with 12V or with 24V. I did not try it. I would not use the saw for cutting strips for deck planking or hull planking. Clark
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