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  2. Like Druxey, my experience with cutting cover slips neatly was virtually non-existent. Well done!
  3. The Vierling c38’s are probably as complicated as anything I’ve done.
  4. The Corel plans do a decent job of showing where the running rigging for the yards go such as the lifts, halliards and braces which is about the extent of the rigging needed if you are not planning on modeling sails. For the not shown items such as the parrels that hold the yards to the masts or the details for the crows feet rigging, the webs of ropes at various locations, I would highly recommend picking up a copy of a rigging book. Seventeenth Century Rigging by RC Anderson is one of my most used references as he does an excellent job of explaining the hows and wheres of rigging with diagrams. I wish I could help more but on rigging these older ships, there really is no easy answer. As far as belaying points, most lines went back to the bits, or rails and belayed there. Often on early 17th century vessels there were no belaying pins, just holes through the pin rails or simply wrapped around the rail. Larger and heavier lines such as the halliards would make use of the knight heads, while the top gallant rigging would terminate on the top rails. Bowsprit rigging typically terminated on the head rails or down on the beakhead. Just remember to keep the lines from fouling on each other. I recommend leaving them loose and unglued till they are all in place for easy adjusting. If you are planning on adding sails, I am of little to no use on that subject at this time as I am still studying that aspect myself for my Soleil Royal build. If that is your plan, I think rigging books would be a must.
  5. Efficient dust collection is important, and it may obviate the need for an expensive TEFC motor. I agree about the 1/3HP, but light cuts shouldn't overheat a motor. Hmm, I wonder if anybody has thought about roughing the wood down with a handplane first - it might save a huge amount of time and airborne dust.
  6. Fitting her out. Spotlights, signal lamps, most of the AA guns ( I’m awaiting the final 6, as the KA kit ones aren’t very nice), fully rigged crane, range finders included as well
  7. Today
  8. I didn't actually build a lot of the prototype Pegasus model, the in house Amati modeller did, as I was asked to start another project (and the parts didn't really need checking as the major parts were that of Fly). I was slightly narked with this, as I had earmarked Tanganyika for the hull planking as, at that particular time, Amati had an unusually darker shade of walnut strip stock. Walnut looks good for 16th and 17th Century subjects (or for models that are fully painted, like Victory or Vanguard), but too dark for later periods. But this is just my personal preference. As for boxwood, it is simply way too expensive for (relatively) high volume commercial kits.
  9. Yesterday
  10. Looks like a very cool place to be, Bruce. Have fun!
  11. If the sails are brittle, there's a good chance that washing them will disintegrate them. Nicotine is soluble in water, helped by a couple of drops of detergent added. Is it possible that the model is acceptable with stained sails?
  12. That's all we need: a hooligan modeler hurling scale rocks at windows! Seriously, that looks excellent, Gary. In my experience, all my microscope cover glass pieces looked like that when I tried to cut them to size. Must have been a cheap scriber, I guess. Your results are far better than mine.
  13. We start the installation of hold stanchions and the simultaneous gluing the deck beams into place from the stern as there are no more internal details back there. The stanchions are 4" x 10" and the deck beams are sided 11 1/2" (both from the survey). The picture below shows how the top of the stanchions are prepared to be attached to the deck beams with two straight 24" iron plates (from the CA Thayer). These plates are modeled as if the 10" width of the stanchion is the same as the 11 1/2" side of the beam. The bottoms of the stanchions will be fastened to the top of the keelson with 2 iron "L"s with each leg being 12". A detail - Should the 4 vertical corners of the stanchions be beveled? CA Thayer's were not, so I left the corners sharp. The tops of the stanchions are not glued qt this time. That will wait until a number of beams are glued in place and then an accurate centerline can be drawn and the stanchions can be positioned accurately. Another detail - Since the stanchions support every other deck beam, should there be a stringer across the tops of the stanchions to support the unsupported beams? CA Thayer does not appear to have such a stringer. Even more important the survey does not mention a stringer and I would think that it would if it was there because it would be very visible and it is clearly structural..
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