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  2. Well and Shot Locker planked and finished ,Hold Platform's are next and the holds done,(other than barrels ,stowage and shingle.). Next on the list is the orlop deck framing and planking! So far no real issues other than the one's mentioned earlier ,(operator error😉😄).
  3. English and European boxwoods (I think both are called buxus sempervirens) are difficult to find and very expensive stuff if you do find some. Castello boxwood (Calycophyllum multiflorum) is great to work with but it is becoming harder to find and prices are up. One source (and I would confirm it is buxus sempervirens) is https://exoticwood.biz/ Allan
  4. Thank you, Scott, for nice words. As I wrote earlier, in early stage of build I have big mistake which can not be resolved, and which I noticed after mounting 4000 foil strips as mynz metal under water line, except to start model from begining. Deck and deck rails are not paralell ... deck fence has different random height ... So, then I decide to overdetail Her to turn off attention of anybody who will se Her. And that is simply - that. Beside that, making this little beasts is chalenge! And fun. All the best. Nenad
  5. I recall reading that the expedition had originally obtained somewhere in the order of a 100 dogs (hence the extra kennels), and in his book, Lansing documents that quite a few of the dogs succumbed to various ailments leaving 65 (?). With that being said it seems to make sense that the extra kennels would have been dismantled through their attrition to make room for other gear and supplies. Which leaves me in the dilemma of what stage of the expedition I want to model. Like you, I really like the two gangways that lead toward the main deck, however, I also want to stay as historically accurate as possible which might include the deck extension and foregoing the gangways altogether. The issues with going that route is what did it look like underneath? Was it fully enclosed or was it just simply a open deck overhang (exuse my lack of better terminology)? One interesting photograph of the recently discovered wreck seems to show the entire deck extension missing as if it was never there. It could be possible that it was either dismantled for lumber suppplies when she was trapped in the ice pack? Or, perhaps it was ripped away as she sank to her final resting place. I have to say that even though these differences can it present a headache to us modelers, it's still fun to play detective and eventually make our modeling decisions based on what we find through research. Plus, I am getting quite the history lesson! Mike
  6. that's great news Keith- luckily regards cooking i come from a long line of men who seem to have a natural skill for making food and my kids always said i made the best food (didn't wind the admiral up at all😋)! Keith
  7. Merit Step 13: The bottom parts of the ventilationshafts have been glued together with Tamiya Extra Thin cement. I cleaned up the seams of these parts, scraping with an X-Acto knife, using needle files and medium and fine sandingsticks. According to my humble opinion, a maximum of 10 of the 14 ventilation shafts have "trumpet like" openings. The other four have a ring with crossed half round ribs. According to contemporary pictures that have been coloured, the "trumpet like" tops have red louvres. Although those "trumpet like" tops are present in the Merit kit, they are nowhere mentioned in the manual, and the gratings that are supposed to represent louvres have diagonal holes and bands. In the Pontosset there are round gratings with exactly the right diameter. But these are for the searchlights. However, this gave me an idee. Previously I built the Trumpeter 1/200 Bismarck, with a lot of functions. In this kit there are 8 gratings for 7 searchlights. Those happen to have the same diameter. And I also have a second Bislmarck kit, that I intend to upgrade with a Pontos detailing set to make a very detailed display model. Therefore I have an extra grating. The Pontosset for the Bismarck also contains 8 gratings but those are fully closed. In case I want to install LED's in the searchlights, as I did in the first model, those gratings are not usable, and thus available for Mikasa, giving a perfect illusion of clased louvres. The half round ribs have been glued woth a dash of Pink Zap, and attached to the round tops with PVA-glue. Excess glue is easily removed with a damp brush. Till next update, enjoy modelling.
  8. Today
  9. I didn't actually say that the shells as such were cast. I was referring to a special steel-alloy developped from the 1870s or so on by Krupp, which in German was called 'Hartguß'. Say in the 1880s, the shells, to my knowledge, actually were cast into cockilles, where the quick cooling surface hardened them. Howitzers like the one we are talking about were designed to destroy bunkers and other hardened facilities, so the shells need to be hard and tough. Too soft and they will use much of their kinetic energy for deformation and the energy will be distributed over a too wide cross-section - too hard and they will fragment on impact, again dispersing the energy. At that time, turning hardened steel was difficult to machine, so they wouldn't turn and bore shells from solid bar-stock. Rather, a process of drawing and drop-forging was used to give most of the shape. Drawing and forging also arranges the structure within the steel, to make it tougher. The square billets from which the process started in the film were presumably cast. Not sure, whether continuous casting and hot cutting would have been available at that time. At 16'10" in the film one can see that even late in the war (I gather the film is 1917/18ish) the shells were painted and were given painted/stencilled marks as to their type. Otherwise they may rust quickly, even if greased for the transport to the front. Firing a rusty shell would not be good for the gun and may difficult to load. Interestingly, our peace-time stocks and production capacities are just not capable of keeping up with war-time demands, as the war in Ukraine shows again. These large artillery barrels had only a limited life-time, after a certain number of shots they would be worn out. Peace-time shell supply presumably was calculated on this basis.
  10. Hi Dave. This is the DV spreadsheet on Windows view of the masting sizes for Diana as per the contract - available at the nmm here Artois Contract Using Extreme Breadth as 39' and length of lower deck as 146' Steel gives the same main mast length as the spreadsheet, 1745 Establishment as 88.92' There were amendments to the 1745 Establishment for larger ships in the intervening times. Using Lees the 1/64 diameter comes to 10.80mm Does the same for my little sloop, too! You'd need to do the math for the other given sizes of the fore to work out if there are any other differences. The spreadsheet is protected from editing, and I'm not a genius with spreadsheets.
  11. Welcome! I built several of the Heller and Revell ships many years ago. I enjoyed them immensely. If you are looking at increasing your skills to scratch build a future model, I would recommend Chris Watton’s Vanguard models. He has a most excellent line of wood beginners kits that would make great display pieces as well.
  12. Many happy and fond memories holidaying at Filey as a child during the '60s. Hours exploring the 'Brig's' rockpools, being cut off by the tide and having to climb the cliff to escape. High adventure for a boy back in the days when you could disappear on your own from dawn 'till dusk.
  13. First of all thank you Chris for the intital post. I´m a "newbie" to this though even if I have a past with scale models. I build in the past models of the U.S.S. Enterprise NCC-1701, NCC-1701A, NCC-1701D and the U.S.S. Reliant NCC-1864 as also the DS9 Space Station. The Runabout Rio Grande NCC-72452 and the Klingon Bird of Prey. But this are all "space ships" and not sail boats. Also I have build those roughly 25 yrs ago. The models still exist but nice stored in safe boxes. Since I sailed the Atlantic twice my love for the sea and sail yachts grew stronger so I came now to the idea that I want to build ships and not space ships anymore (even if I would like to rebuild a new Enterprise). I build a Revell 1/225 HMS Victory (more likely finished it but not to the standards I wish though) and was thinking of a Revell Cutty Sark 1/96 now. I want to increase my skills to build one day my private dream of a Hallberg Rassy 57 build from scratch (since there is no scale model of it). Also I wish to send you all my best wishes since you live where I always wanted to live, Greer, SC. I visited a couple of times Greenville because I´m a big Clemson Tigers fan. Kind regards, Michael
  14. You can certainly see the difference in this photo. I imagine it will look different in different lighting. Definitely worth the effort Craig it looks tremendous.
  15. Hello everyone, I´m Michael and I live in a small fishing village on the Scottish North Coast. I was a sailor in younger age and still love and adore sailing boats / yachts. I found my first scale model (Revell HMS Victory 1/225) and got hooked up. I´m pretty new to scale models and therefore I have two different models in mind as the second one. There is a model of the Cutty Sark (1/96) from Revell and the 1/100 model of the HMS Victory from Heller. I want to do one or even both of them to increase my skills and then I would like to build from scratch my absolute dream yacht, a Hallberg Rassy 57. I know I need more skills for that. My wish would be to build the HR57 in a scale of 1/10 or 1/20, do you think that is too ambitious? Therefore I ask you guys if the Revell or Heller models are any good to increase my skills and if those are good models at all? Also what is the exact difference between the HMS Victory and the HMS Victory Starter Kit from Heller? If I get it correct the Starter Kit includes glue and the base colours? Thank you for your patience to read all this and I´m looking forward to your answers. Kind regards, Michael
  16. Thankyou Kevin, Bug, and Rusty, your words are much appreciated. @ Bug - That Chris Watton has a lot to answer for, I dread seeing the next irresistible model to emerge from The Forest of Dean, I’m already struggling to find a suitable space for ‘Indy’ Cheers, B.E.
  17. The Eagle-Man is an absolute treasure with this research. Love it.
  18. Having looked more closely at the results of the masting sizes on Danny's masting sheet and looking at the diameter of both the main mast and the fore mast as the same 11.2mm on the model. I believe this to be incorrect but I could be wrong. I have taken my calculations from Lees book'The masting and rigging of English ships of War ' and as the lower fore mast is shorter than the main mast by 0.9 x the main mast = the fore mast then I assumed that as the diameter of the mast is calculated for 1" for every 3 ft of masting , then if the fore mast is shorter than the main mast then the diameter must be smaller. There is some ambiguity concerning Lees wording on this which perhaps I may have got wrong . In the Proportionate Diameters of the Mast section in Lees book FORE equates to 'The same proportions as given for the Main' My take on this would be for the same proportions as to the length of the fore mast and not main mast. I Hope I am making sense and wonder if it is possible to change the formulae in the spread sheet without too much trouble but beginning to think Allan is correct and we are just better off just working all this out for ourselves. There is however the possibility that it might be another incompatibility issue. However it is my hope to borrow a windows office 123 lap top installed and try this out for my own curiosity.Thanks again for all your help and patience. Best regards Dave
  19. I've cleaned the hull (didn't need much work- just dusting), and the mast and boom are now glued back together and I've shaped the new bowsprit and dry fitted it. The repairs needed sanding and a bit of staining to match the rest, as did the bowsprit. The replacement piece for the stand split (mainly my carelessness in cutting out the slot) so I had to make a new one. I'm thinking of making some crosspieces for the stand so it'll be more stable - it's quite narrow and it's first damage was from being toppled off a shelf by a cat. The rigging is slowly coming together, but I'm not worrying too much about it until I've got the rest done. The backstory on the model is that it was made for the owner by a modeller in Williamstown (a harbour suburb of Melbourne) back in about 1996, and he had it in pride of place in the house - until the cat got to it. Since then it's been in storage in a back shed, and I think he'd resigned himself to it never being fixed. It appears that there was more damage while it was in storage, which he hadn't been aware of . . . So, coming along nicely. No more work on it over Easter, but it looks like only a few more days' work, all going well. Steven
  20. Great to see this amazing effort by your team. I have just completed the same Border Model Lancaster and also included the masks you show above. I added a 7 man crew, lights and sounds of engines. I'm curious to see if you decide to paint the wings before or after you attach them to the fusilage. The colours are also difficult to match up. The engines require a few decisions. Do you build the full engines or the dummies? I built the full engines and used nano magnets to be able to remove and replace the cowlings on engines 2&3. It looks good and shows off the work put into the Merlin 20 engines. I weathered everything as the plane I copied had completed 90 operations over Europe. I had an absolute ball building the Lancaster (approx 600 hours in total). I am more than happy to help as you will come across some 'fun bits'. Cheers, Peter vG
  21. I'm following an interesting build log, great work Steven 👍 learn Australian (i think 😉) And history (👍)
  22. I think to that the timber joints on this model are built to a tighter tolerance than the original ship, spectacular work!
  23. Looking for a model kit or plan for the HMS Centurion 1732.  Also have a laser so also interested in any files associated with building a wooden ship. 

    Thanks Craig

  24. I compared the column protection of the FSK bridge in Baltimore (top) with our local Astoria-Megler Bridge (NW Oregon, Columbia River) on Google Earth. I think the images speak for themselves.
  25. Just a quick update on my next move on this - I am still working on the figures that can be placed on the dio sections done, so that will be my Two Laife Guards they still need painting and weathering before being cut away and glued down on the roadway near to the Two 95th Rifles, then I really need to think about doing some more scenery as there is the back end that needs my grass - some headge near the cottage garden and groundworks in the garden (grass - soil beds). So still quite a bit to do yet (I also think it needs more French as there was loads in real life) these I need to get as I have used what I have. OC.
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