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Build a plank on bulkhead model of the 32 gun frigate HMS Winchelsea 1764. Download the set of plans which contain all of the parts and information to build the model. A comprehensive monograph detailing all aspects of the project is also available. Some laser cut parts for this project are also available at SyrenShipModelCompany.com

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MSW Online Group Project
  1. What's new in this club
  2. Thanks Chuck. What exactly do you mean by feather board? Just something to hold the plank that’s being cut, down? It seems as you get close to the end of the cut the large board wants to dive into the blade and then it screws up the next cut. By the way, what blade are you all cutting with? Thanks, JJ
  3. That looking great. I usually set the fence once 3/64 from the blade and go to work. I use feather boards to keep the sheet down and against the fence.
  4. Finally got some lumber nailed to the side of this thing. Good thing this is going to have another layer over the top, there’s going to be just a little filling at the bow. How are you guys ripping your planks? Are you setting the rip fence once and just pushing the block through or are you moving the fence each time? I need to perfect ripping yesterday! JJ
  5. Thanks so much Rusty, Chuck and the "likes". Chuck, I appreciate the "heads up". I think that I will wait to do any tweaking until somewhat later, when I can see more clearly what needs to be done to make everything fit properly. Bob
  6. Great start! There are better grade plywood's, but you won't see the inside and as long as you use a sufficient amount of glue and proper fastners it should not be a problem and you can add blocking where you think you will be needing the extra support.
  7. Although I'm not getting much time in the shipyard I have been slowly pushing on. Much of the fairing is done to my standards so I will probably do some more to try to improve my standards a bit! I have run into a "challenge" however. While fairing the hull was upside down. I had noticed that bulkhead U needed a bit of shimming up and had started to apply some strips to build it up a bit. When I right-sided the hull to start running the battens along the top of the gunports I finally noticed that bulkhead U was not fully seated in the BF. It wasn't properly glued down. It seemed like a s simple fix so out with the rubber mallet to coax it down a bit. It looked pretty good so I ran some CA into the seams. Problem should have been solved. Somehow - I still haven't quite decided when this fix went off the rails but - the bulkhead, now well glued, slipped upward again. There is about 1-2 mm slip. I am now contemplating which of 2 courses of action to take 1- try to soak the joint with acetone to free the bulkhead again - reset if, and make sure it doesn't slip before the glue sets or 2- leave it alone, fair the hull with there shims in place and there deal with the deck level "bump" . I don't like 2 very much because of the amount to sanding required on t his annoyingly tough plywood as well as the camber of the deck to get right especially near the edges where the bulkheads interfere with the sanding process. So I'll try 1 and if I can't get the joint free then I'll try plan 2. Sigh. Before After Deck level
  8. That looks very good Bob. You are certainly moving along. I might point out a possible issue however. The sheer at the the stern is a bit high in relation to the top of the transom. I am not sure if your planking run just slopes up too much for the last 5 or 6 inches of the run or if your transom fillers were placed too low. Probably a little bit of both. You might want to tweak both at some point. This will probably affect how your qgalleries will end up as well as the railings atop the quarter deck. Check out the relationship between the two in the photo below. Chuck
  9. I just completed the last steps before moving on to the lower hull planking. First, I added the anchor lining using the laser cut parts and strip. Next, I did the fairing cap, using the laser cut hance pieces, strip wood for the quarter deck pieces and for the temporary waist pieces, and pieces cut from cedar sheet for the bow pieces. After all those pieces were in place, I completed the fairing of the inner bulwarks. This was tedious, but not as bad as it might have been , since I had done a good deal of the fairing before. Now, it's time to dig in and line off the lower hull and do the planking, a formidable looking task. Bob
  10. Thank you Jim, much appreciated. I’ve been stalling for bit but plan to get some planks on this week. JJ
  11. Scrubbyj427, Looking really good. I am several days/weeks behind you but working on it. I really appreciate the opportunity to watch you progress (and learn). Jim
  12. That looks fine. They are left extra long just in case. Just sand it flush on both sides. use satin and never gloss wipe on poly. Also dont forget to add those filler strips below the counter. You forgot
  13. I got the stern planking in today, it turned out pretty decent, ive sanded it and it’s ready for WOP, speaking of which, what’s the popular choice for WOP? Also has anyone had this much planking hang over the frames? Is this indicative of taking too much material off? JJ
  14. Here is what I have cooked up for my Winchelsea build to add a little difference to it. I intend to add a frame reveal to the model, much like Chuck's one on his Confederacy or David's one on the Comet. Midships is the obvious place to put a reveal so as to simplify the design work and make construction easier, so I have decided to make mine between the bulkheads of station frames G thru 5, Also it will be just below the wales to allow for two strakes of lower planking above and several below it. It will be quite a large reveal so as to show the first and second futtock frame joints, I will have to construct a shadow box behind it to be painted flat black and the simulated frames will be made of swiss pear. According to "Steel" and the "Shipbuilders repository" table of scantlings, a 32gun frigate of the time would have had 11 1/2" wide second futtock framing, molded 9" with a room and space of 27 3/4", I intend to simplify this a little with 11" wide framing with 3" between them, and it works out that I can fit 23-24 frames in the reveal. I will finish the design side of this soon and start building it when I have completed construction of the stern framing. ben
  15. With shoulder replacement surgery five weeks behind me, I have returned gradually to the workshop to work on HMS Winchelsea. In the last week, I installed the lower and upper sills of the gunports and framed in the sides of the gunports. The latter process also required cutting out several bulkheads between the upper and lower sills to permit proper placement of the side frames. Finally, this morning I faired the starboard gunports - sills and sides. The first two pictures below show the framed-in gunports. The last two pictures show the starboard side with the gunport sills and frames all faired in line with the bulkheads (this included a bit more sanding than I had anticipated since I needed to make most of the side frames concave in line with the upper bulkheads).
  16. Rusty, very nice planking! She is going to be great looking model. Well done Sir
  17. Yes more or less that is how you do it. Eyeball a good run for your planks. Then just divide each belt equally by the number of strakes in it. If you have 25 on those center bulkheads then my guess is you will have 3 belts .....8 strakes, 8 strakes and lastly 9 strakes. Chuck
  18. Thanks. Sorry for not getting back with you. Couple of weeks ago, I got a cramp and indigestion. Thought some alka seltzer would take care of it. Nope, made it worse. Turned out to be a bowel obstruction. Hell of a thing too and I don't recommend it. Anyway, I'll have to reconstruct my tic strips. They vanished but I had only made two for each side. I'm working the Constructo Endeavour. The two center bulkheads are virtually identical in length. I like your technique of dividing the ship into belts. I just can't figure out how to proceed now that I've marked these center bulkeads. Do I base the position of my art strip on these tic marks, dividing the ship into three sections, by eyeballing it, stem to stern, then divide the individual sections for a total overall of 25? I'm really stuck. It could be I'm overthinking this or I'm simply dense. And yes, my glue technique was just miserable.
  19. Thanks so much Ben. It only seems fast because I have so much time to spend on her. Bob
  20. That is looking very, very good. 😀 Your careful planning and lining up at this stage will pay off so much later when you get to the later chapters.

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