About This Club
Build a POF model of the Medway Longboat (1742). The group is building a kit which will be fully rigged with an option to add sails. The kit can be purchased from Syren Ship Model Company.
Group Type
MSW Online Group Project
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You do not want to over bevel the edge of the planks as gaps could develop when you sand the hull. Also, the plank edges will be seen on the interior of the hull, so you want the edges to be tight. -
Yes I am Floyd, to the minimum amount I can though, as per Chuck’s instructions. -
I purchased my Kunz miniature plane from Woodcraft many years ago. I did a Google search and came up with this: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/kunzpalmplanewithouthandle.aspx There are other miniature planes that are much nicer, such as the Lie-Nielsen, but my Kunz does the job. It is based on the old Stanley 101 block plane. I am glad to see your progress on your Longboat. I hope to start rigging mine today.
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Ryland - My Medway mast kit just arrived. I will restrain myself from jumping ahead. But it does bring up the question of a finger plane. Where did you find yours? -
Are you beveling the edges where the planks come together?
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Nice repair job, I am glad you overcame that issue. Looks very good! -
Nice job on the repair Floyd. Fairing also looks great. Looking forward to seeing you tackle the planking now.
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Thanks for the likes folks. Bob - I did consider adding the monofilament as you suggested, but decided that might cause more headaches with handling the model while placing planks, so will defer that until the planking is all in place. Minor update today. Planking progresses cautiously with the first four strakes now complete. Using Chuck’s methods for both bending and gluing is paying dividends. Nevertheless, I have not been afraid to debond planks that I have not been satisfied with. One plank came off three times before I was happy. The last plank on the starboard s
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The repair and fairing look good. I know you are looking forward to moving on with the build.
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That is looking good. -
I want to thank everyone who has expressed an interest in my build. We really have a great group that works hard to support each other. I wanted to post just a brief update. In the picture below you will see the results of the repair. And I am happy to report that Fairing is complete. All Laser char is gone. Tomorrow it is on to chapter 2.
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Ok thanks Chuck. And please excuse my frantic message to you. I was using 220 grit. But I think I hit it with the end of my sanding stick.
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Thats the way to go. Just add a few drops of CA to the breaks and let it dry thoroughly. It will hold just fine. Reinforce the top edge only. I would even go as far to say that you wont need to reinforce it. But if you do, place a scrap piece on the top edge only. When I say the top edge I mean on the top edge of the sheer. Not on the sides of the break. It will hold fine until you plank it. If you want to reinforce the middle break just add some tape on the one side. The whole length of the frame. Even where the laser cut seam is between the frame and the center which you will remo
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Thanks to all for your response. And again Ryland you are my main man . You gave me the info I needed. First off I had forgotten about sanding the interior. But I agree with I am going to attempt a repair. If the repair fails I will have to replace the frame. I was going to have to do that anyway. But I will wait for Chuck's sage advice. I also thank you for the info that the break is above the floor. That is a key piece of info I needed. Justin you are very welcome to follow. I promise you that I am going to make more mistakes than anyone here.
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I suspect Ill join the cohort of those who've snapped one of those frames as well! If you don't mind Ill follow along! -
It happens , I did the same thing. Maybe more than once 😬 -
Floyd, I am sure that you are not the first modeler to break a frame when fairing a Medway Longboat. The frame broke at a place where it will be visible on the inside of the hull. The break is about one plank width above the top of the floorboard. If you decide that you will repair this frame, this is how I would do it. I would first take some wax paper and place it on the laser cut seam of the frame center where the breaks occurred. It looks like you may be able to slide some wax paper in the seam under the section of the center frame where the floor and top timber are joined together ri
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I've had good luck with gluing small, broken pieces back on by using just a tiny dab of medium viscosity CA. I've been able to glue pieces like that and even been able to sand them afterwards. Just sand gently if you need to sand the glued on piece. -
Ok I have hit another snag. Things were going so well. I have completed the fairing on the port side and more than 1/2 on the starboard side. The tip of Frame 6 has broken off. See the Picture below. This is the 6th frame from the bow. So I expect it is Frame "F" as in Floyd F*ed up. I will continue to fair the rest of the starboard side. But this will require more Acetone to remove and replace this frame. Ok now that I have cooled off from this major disaster. I took a closer look at the situation. It is Frame "C" not F. And it broke right at the join between the first & secon
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You're moving right along, Grant. I think it's a good idea to drill the nail holes as you lay the planks down. You could even go ahead and add the black monofilament to the holes too. I did it all at once after the hull was completely planked and, man, it was a tedious, repetitive job that got old quick! It was my least favorite part of the build. Doing it little by little would have been much better.
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The frames were glued in place per the instructions and left to cure for a few days. The frames were then gently faired using 240 grit sandpaper on a variety of foam backing blocks. The hull was then lined off using tick strips and the bow/stern templates provided by Chuck to place a pencil mark on each frame with the exception of the first and last three frames. Thin strips of tape were then used to adjust the line. The frames were then marked again along the edges of the tape, this time using a thin black pen. Once the tape was removed, the o
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Looking like it is coming along nicely. I also have a bad reaction to CA and have previously tried to avoid it like the plague. Might have to invest in one of those respirators you talked about. -
Glad to see you back at and will have more time to enjoy it! -
Looks nice Grant. I am glad you have restarted this build.
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Looks perfect!!!
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