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About This Club
Build a POF model of the Medway Longboat (1742). The group is building a kit which will be fully rigged with an option to add sails. The kit can be purchased from Syren Ship Model Company.
Group Type
MSW Online Group Project
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Thanks Rusty. I'm going to try that first. If it all goes south, I'll try cutting it out by hand as Bob mentioned. -
Looking really good Jeff. When I had to make a new plank I did it on the scroll saw but I made sure to use a very fine blade. -
Thanks Bob. That is another option to try.
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The planking so far looks terrific, Jeff. I had to make a couple of additional planks after I had messed up the original ones. I simply traced the pattern from the outline of the original laser cutout and then carefully cut it with a sharp #11 Xacto blade. I was careful to cut along the lines slowly in several passes without placed to much pressure downward on the knife. That helped me follow the lines without the blade sliding off as it crossed the grain in some places. It was tedious but it worked. Good luck! Bob -
Its been a while since I've updated this log, a lot longer than I thought actually. I'm sorry to those that have been sitting on the edge of your seats waiting...lol. Anyway, I've been focusing most of my effort on the Constitution (which I will continue to do) trying to get all the hull details done so the longboat has been a little neglected. Thats one reason. The other reason is that I've completed 3 rows and realized as I started the 4th row that I need to cut a new plank, probably for both sides. Plank 7 to be specific. That makes me a bit nervous so I've been a little hesitant. After thinking for a while I think that I will trace the original plank and then correct the edge that makes contact with the previous row. I'll just need to work out how best to do that. Cutting it out is something else to think on. My first instinct is to try using the scroll saw but I'm concerned about the thin material. I may need to order some additional material just in case this takes more tries than I have excess material for, we'll see. Thanks for looking. Here's a couple pics of the progress so far. As previously mentioned, I'm tree nailing as I plank. I haven't done any sanding yet though so the high spots are visible.
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Just leave them loose. I did. No reason to glue them in. -
I'm making the belaying pins and was wondering if it is best to glue them in place or just leave them loose in their holes? Bob
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Thanks, Chuck. I haven't figured out how to use the search function to narrow the search down to something very specific. When I search for something I invariably end up with every word being searched for which results in tons of posts that are irrelevant. I know that when I've sailed on my brother-in-laws boat we have to duck under the boom when coming about but the main sheet attaches to the boom much further towards the mast. It's hard to imagine why they did it the way they did on these longboats. Bob
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Thank you very much Bob for the kind words. Iām glad itās been a help for you.
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Yupp ....but it is still correct. This has been discussed to death. It is the way it was done however....
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Chuck, I have a question about the actual operation of the horse and the main sheet. It looks like the main sheet and block would get in the way of the rudder handle when the boom was sheeted in or out and the boom moved from one side to the other because of where the traveler is located with the main sheet and block attached to it. How did the sailor steering the boat with the rudder avoid having the main sheet and block get in the way of the rudder handle? Bob
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I just reread your log from where you began the rigging and your photos are helping me a lot in understanding how to do the rigging. I've said it before but I'll say it again, your Medway Longboat is simply beautifully done. Bob
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I just use gutteman polyester thread. I get 100 weight thread the same color at any craft store. For thinner ropes you can use fly tying thread.
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Chuck, I ordered one of your serving machines and it should arrive within a week or so. I've never done any rigging or serving but I'm looking forward to learning to do it. Can you recommend a brand and size of thread to use with your serving machine? Also, does the size of the serving thread change with the size of the rope being served? As always, many thanks, Bob
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Nice job of figuring it out. I have already drilled the holes on the horizontal surface of the gaff like the plans show. I guess I'll have to play with it too. I wonder what Chuck did on his model? Thanks very much, Bob
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Bob, Thank you. Fortunately, most of the mistakes I made are only ones that I can see. Notice I said, "Most." I am here looking at the model and the gaff. Originally, I drilled holes in the ends of the gaff jaws vertically. Then I tried putting the line in from the top of one jaw, through the parrel beads, and up from the bottom on the opposite jaw. The gaff dropped immediately. I then reversed the set-up (now up through a jaw, through the beads and down through the opposing jaw - same result. Since I concluded that one of these setups had to work, I repeated both using more beads. Same results. Finally, I drilled horizontally through the gaff jaws. In from the exterior, through the parrel beads (total of nine beads) and then through the other jaw (interior to exterior). Cannot say that this is necessarily correct, nautically, but it worked for me. Since it is said that one picture is worth 1,000 words, here is a close up of the gaff on the mast. Jim -
First of all, Jim, congratulations on such a beautiful build of the Medway Longboat! I'm about to start the rigging and have never done any rigging before so I've been reading all the logs here to see what I can learn before jumping in with both feet. You mentioned that the gaff was difficult to figure out. Can you explain more about what you did to finally get the head of the gaff to stay firmly against the mast without falling down the boom? That information might be very helpful for me when I get to that point. Thanks very much, Bob
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That's some nice planking, Jeff. I'm reading a lot of the builds here hoping to get some tips about doing the rigging. Have you made some more progress on your build? Bob
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Thanks, Bob, for the encouragement. I know this is a simple rigging compared to those galleons where the rigging looks like a spider's web! It's just that it's my first try at rigging and I'm less than confident about the sequences of it all but I'm going to give it a go and see what happens... Bob
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Thanks so much Bob. Judging by your work so far, the rigging should be great. Bob -
Believe me when I say, "If something could go wrong, I'll find it!" š¤£ I was a little worried that I would mess up the lap joint on the keel when I started building this model so I worked very slowly and carefully while constantly checking it. It turned out great. When the keel was finished and the transom had been added I gave it a couple of coats of Wipe-on-Poly and was really happy with it. I admired it for a couple of days and then noticed that the lap bolts I had added were not in the same place on either side of the keel! One set of bolts was aft of the seam on one side and forward of the seam of the other side. My admiration plummeted and I thought, "well how stupid was that!" I could have used the other simplified keel that's included in the kit but I really liked the keel with the lap joint. So I ordered another keel from Chuck and did it over again even though my wife said, "You're the only one that would ever notice that!" Bob
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Beautiful work, Chuck! Ed -
Thatās a really lovely job so far Bob. Iām sure youāll do equally well with the rigging. What could possibly go wrong? š -
Thanks Bob, I hope to return to this build very soon. A few other things have demanded my attention of late, but I think Iām about ready to crack on with this one.
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I made it curve up just a little because I would avoid a completely straight horse. Just for aesthetics. There is no curve towards the transom. It is always equal distance from the transom.
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