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About This Club

This is an intro to carving. Basic stuff with no fully round carving such as figureheads. This group area is set up for folks who have never tried carving before. Laser cut blanks are available from Syren Ship Model Company so everyone can compare notes and techniques while carving the same design.

Group Type

MSW Online Group Project
  1. What's new in this club
  2. great help the mini lathe using drimmel and really like the instructions on how to do things! thanks for the link
  3. Druxey, I have ordered a handful of Dockyard mini chisels to play with (or more accurately, to see if I can sharpen and then play with them!) Thanks Chuck, druxey, reklein, and everyone else again for taking the time to take a peek and comments!
  4. Nicely done, Eric; particularly with the comparatively large tools you are using. If you are serious about miniature carving, you might consider acquiring some miniature carving tools. It will make a difficult job much easier.
  5. I covered the carving with several coats of water based polyurethane, which ‘smoothed out” the texture of the cut wood, making it look much better, than it actually is!
  6. I undercut the flowers slightly and the carving looked ok enough for the time spent so far. I popped the carving off and wet the paper and rubbed most of it off quickly. The rest yielded to the X-acto blade with a couple quick scapes. I noticed a couple of my cuts didn’t cut all to the base so I scraped that as well. I thought I would need to scrape or sand at this point, but I’m happy enough with the exercise as is. Beyond the the sawing, the cutting (and grinding) took two 15 minutes sessions (plus a bit more for photos). I assume this would quicker with practice. I think I would invest in buying or making a small gouge to supplant my ‘scraper’.
  7. I ground down a bit of brass tube to make a circle-shaped ‘punch’ for the center of the flower and I ground down a X-acto blade for scraping the previously described inside curves. It was quick to do and they worked ok.
  8. Thanks for the suggestion, reklein. I thought gluing it to the block of wood would work in a similar fashion. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks to everyone for the likes!
  9. Using a ‘regular’ flat wood chisel and a x-acto blade, I cut in “low” areas. The contrast between high and low helps define the definition of the different areas. I’ve used a combination of vertical and then horizontal cuts to knock chunks of wood, with slicing cuts for vertical cuts for the curves.
  10. Nice, but, I think I would have left it partially attached the main piece of wood so as to have a handle while carving the piece. Then cut it from the stock and finish it.
  11. Flipped over the piece and glued it to a chunk of 2x4 for support and ease of handling. The paper in between will later when remove the carved piece from the support. After it dried, I drew the image in the piece to be craved.
  12. I first started to saw the wood without support and that made me nervous. I found piece of pine scrap with a pre-existing hole a cut a v-shape and then clamped the pine to my work area. That worked better but sometimes I found myself sawing into the pine as well as my target. A few pencil marks helped that issue. For the sawing, staying vertical can be a challenge and tight turns require cutting a extra bit out with the saw so the back of the saw blade doesn’t bind when turning. The whole cutout took 15 minutes; which was quicker than I expected. That’s nice because anything printed and glued can be cut! I used a jeweer’s saw since I don’t have ‘proper’ cooping saw and the smallest blade I could find - again for jewelry making.
  13. Since Chuck kindly posted the scale pdf of the decorations, I felt laziness and a bit of fear were the only bars to an attempt. After printing, I glued the paper to my sacrificial bits of wood. I aligned the longest direction of the pattern with the direction of the grain in a hope to reduce the wood splitting apart.
  14. Just to let you folks know!!!! I have just laser cut a bunch more of these carving blanks and they are ready for purchase. So if anyone hasnt yet joined this group and would like to try out some carving as an introduction......click the link below. Carving Blanks click here!!!
  15. I have a few pieces of cedar to use for the rest of the Victory’s carvings and for the Triton. I’ve learned a lot since running through the carving tutorials, but these were an excellent starting point.
  16. Painting basswood with Sanding Sealer before you begin to work on it does a lot to combat the fuzziness of the basswood fibers. If you’re like me you’re too cheep to buy better wood to work with but there are still other species of wood more suitable to carving if you look around. For instance older wooden rulers and yardsticks are made of pretty tight grained wood, the older measuring sticks were actually made of boxwood!
  17. I do all my carving in pearwood and can get some pretty fine detail. Never tried box, but can certainly recommend pear. Can you post a photo of your carvings with something that can give an idea of scale? (Matchstick, coin, ruler, whatever) Steven
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