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  2. Thanks guys. Its really weird to make these but if it is something that works for you guys I will try and do more when subjects lend themselves to video. I just dont know which ones would.
  3. Hi Kurt, To take advantage of getting the HMS Winchelsea plans for free and because I wanted to become a member of the NRG anyway for a while I joined as a member today. Because I am stupid...sigh..., I ended up putting an incorrect email address in the form so I won't get the confirmation email (I didn't check first and filled it in with a ".au" at the end). My correct email address has no .au What is the best way to fix that? Peter
  4. Great videos Chuck! They may have been a pain to produce but they are absolute gold. Thank you for taking the time to do this for the community - I know that many, many people will benefit from this demonstration. If a picture tells a thousand words, then how much does a video tell? Well done, Sir!
  5. Thanks for your kind words! And have fun with your first build. Just take it slow 😉. And maybe start a build log so we can follow your progress to👍
  6. Today
  7. what else?..........the swampland in Louisiana had already been sold ..... I put the alternator and idler pulley in late yesturday afternoon {possible pun.......could be?!?!}. I took the day off today so I can be around in case he needs help. if you see massive smoke to the northeast..........no worries, it's just my garage burning down BTW......how do you contact the DHC, to let them know it isn't a terrorist attack?
  8. Gidday Norway and a warm welcome from the Land Downunder. I am looking forward to your progress with the Pickle. I wish you al the best in your endeavours. Mark.
  9. they are not too bad........since the wood barrel is bare wood, simply sand around the hoops and restain. wait a day or so to be sure the paint has cured completely
  10. It depends if the ship is moving or in port. Have in mind that copper on a moving ship is not green under water but copperish pink. It get's green when e.g. being in a dry dock for a long time. Kinda same with bronze. cheers Dirk
  11. I think you have done a wonderful job. Planking a hull is extremely difficult and I echo what you say about having respect for the old ship builders. They were artists in their own right. Love the centre board. Pete
  12. Hi there everyone. Just opened an account on this site. The site is wonderful and i have already spent many ours reading and enjoying build logs. Totally hooked on this hobby! I have been a modeller since childhood, but only plastic an R/C models. Until now. I'm now into my first ever wood model kit, Caldercraft Pickle. As you already have seen my English is not impressive! 😊
  13. Hi there mugje! Enjoying your build log. Just opened an account on this site-totally hooked on this hobby! Building Caldercraft Pickle my self for the moment. My first ever wood build. Your model looks stunning :)
  14. Both Brandos now with stands!. One mast cants back more than the other. Oh well c'est la vie. Or what ever it is in Italian as they are Italian designed. Pete
  15. Where was your hotel? I can't imagine seeing kangaroos on the way from the airport unless it was "out mulga" as we say (well, as I say -but I'm a bit of a dinosaur - I once caught myself asking someone if what they'd told me was dinkum . . .) Steven
  16. Part 5: The center board case and center board. Next thing is making the center board case. Here you see the different parts. Gluing them together. The center board case is standing on the keelson with a slot and groove connection. I make the slots in the case with the table saw. The groove in the keelson is stabbed with the chisel. The center board box in its position. Paper template of the center board to glue on a 2mm thick aluminum plate. Sawing out the center board with the jigsaw. I lubricate the saw with some fuel oil. The center board sawed and filed. Fitting the board in the slot. with the center board case...
  17. The hull, released from the board. The excesses of the planks at the transom are sawn off. The surface of the inside of the hull is a bit rough and here and there you can see the traces of the paint stripper heat gun. I crape the unevenness at the inside of the hull away. To reach all the inside curves of the hull, I file a small rounded scraper out of a piece of a cutter blade. The inside is cleaned up. The hull waiting in its new chair for further treatment.
  18. Good Point ! Hull Planning The Quarterdeck is removeable until the hull planking is complete. I still haven't finished the Upper Gun Deck level either, there will be stuff hanging from the ceiling of the Upper Gun Deck from the Quarterdeck level... such as wired Lanterns and maybe some extra fittings like a hammock, table and some powder horns. Until the underside of the Quarterdeck is done, I'm not going to add things like the bell housing, brass rope stantions etc until the hull is finished. I like to work out the positioning and logistics of everything before committing to the build. Once I complete the hull I won't have access to internal cavities I may need to install extra stuff like bluetooth speakers, a usb port for charging the internal batteries and threading the electrical wiring throughout the ship for lighting. I'm thinking of putting the USB port behind the Victory name plate at the Stern of the ship... or maybe in one of the stern cannon hatches with a switch hidden in the other one. Wireless It would be also interesting if I can find some wireless technology so I can operate the lights and audio from my smartphone.... I could record Russel Crowe from Master and Commander... you know the weevil gag.... or maybe Lord Nelson on the potty with a bit of random toilet humour. It'd be nice to tune in to the BBC radio through the HMS Victory, that's what my friend suggested when I mentioned bluetooth speakers inside.
  19. I am now at the stage whereas before I start fixing rudders and removable keels on , I need to make a stand for the boat. The stand serves four purposes. 1 To hold the model steady whilst working on the rudder and radio linkages. 2 To display the model. 3 To keep the boat safe whilst at the pond/ lake. 4 To transport it on my bicycle. I travel nearly everywhere on my super electric bike now and that will include a pleasant trip out with Brando for a few hours of sailing. I will figure a way of attaching the masts to the base of the stand with the furled sail. The boat is held to the stand by a strip if bicycle inner tube made fast one end by a U shaped staple and the other end is fastened to a split pin eye which locates in a hole underneath so when tensioned it cannot slip loose. I have adopted my normal finishing by giving the stand a good douse of linseed oil. Pete
  20. so they would be blackish green due to the oxidation in the water?
  21. Try masking the wood, than paint the hoops, remove the tape and laquer the barrels without tape
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If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

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