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  2. The crimping tubes are great. I learned of them when rigging the control wires on a 1/32 WW1 biplane. Saved me a lot of pain and frustration.
  3. @Jaager 🙂 I don't want to move it regularly, so no casters. I have some, but will keep them for other projects. There's a power strip in the back left corner, and there's a LED shop light tucked tight under the top shelf. But mounting one with a "crane" is a good idea, so I can put the light where I want it. This shop light is pretty darned bright, though. No brace needed. The lower shelf is hard attached, so it is very stable. Not sure what I'd use folding shelf brackets for. I'm thinking I'll just hang what I need from the peg board. I'm sure it will fill up with stuff before too long. But I am thinking about adding a plastic floor mat/shield beneath it to make vacuuming any errant dust easier. @Ebomba: Yes, lots of natural light in that room. Very good work environment. I built a little jewelry making desk into a cubby on the other side. I do that on the side as a break from modeling. 🙂
  4. Thanks, Michael and Rob! It's been a tough sled lately. Yes, Michael coffee would be splendid! I'll PM you later this month to discuss a time and date to meet.
  5. Welcome back Vivian and congrats on the marriage. I'm excited to see how these sails turn out. They are looking very nice. Scott
  6. Hi Marcus thank you for your kind words. Let's start a group build and call it the Armaclogan! Cheers Pieter
  7. Ben - I am sorry you missed the meeting. Since this model is to be used as a teaching tool and never leave the classroom. The school declined having any kind of R/C. They were more interested in things moving that would inform the students. Such as the thrusters, search lights, and the winches. We volunteered to have the fire nozzles rotate, and you will see that when I have the wiring done for the pilot house. The school has decided to mount the models to a roll around cart. This way the students can simulate being on the water and the correct angles on the nav. lighting. So when we are done there will be a 4 ft. long cart and a 7 foot long cart in the classroom. They will also use the winches to tie off to each other. A quick note on the Foss Waterway museum - As Ben mentions it is located in Tacoma and it has 3 models that were built by members of our club. They are 1 inch to 1 foot scale. I encourage anyone in the area to go see them. The model of the Discovery (the ship that discovered the Puget Sound) is 10 feet long and 12 feet tall, complete with Treenails.
  8. Hello first time here. Just got the terror, it is my first build. Looking forward to starting it.
  9. Hello all. After taking the parts apart I found after putting them on the plans that I did not have to make a V shaped piece of wood. In fact I had to file some off part 16. It looks like I have to file down to the blue line as this looks a bit too high. It amazed me that taking only a little bit off part 16 can move the top over by about 5mm. Jo.
  10. Doris: You really are a true artist. Your precise and pristine work is a rare combination of virtues. CONGRATULATIONS! Can you tell us what tools and materials you mainly use? For example, what kind of cardboard you use and where can I buy it? Do you cut your cardboard with scissors or Xacto knives? What other tools/materials you recommend to use? Thanks a lot, José
  11. Hello Sam Dark side "a"☠️ the only thing I scratch is my head over this kit 🤣. Jo.
  12. Additions that I would apply: drop down casters from Woodworkers Supply on the inside of eachleg. at least one power strip two "cranes" on the top of the back to site an LED shop light or two over the work area. an X brace on the two back legs folding shelf brackets on the side and perhaps the front Why build something if you can't over engineer it?
  13. Nice set up, seems to have a lot of natural light , enjoy! Ed
  14. Today
  15. I'm going to replicate BuNo 9058 as it would have served aboard the USS Akron in the early 30s for a couple reasons...first, everyone always seems to model 9056, the red one and second, by the mid 30s Washington demanded that the colorful paint jobs be eliminated, so the tails were all painted a blue-black and the flying trapeze insignia was removed. A bird from the early 30s would carry all the color and markings. This will be a box stock build, with the exception of scratching the secondary gunsight, which the kit instruction sheet calls for. The decals have all the bureau numbers, allowing one to build of any of the six aircraft. Each a/c was assigned a different color as well, 9056-Red, 9057-White, 9058-True Blue, 9059-Black, 9060-Willow Green, 9061-Lemon Yellow, the color was applied to the engine cowl, wheel pants, the upper wing chevron strip and the fuselage strip. The carrier film was yellowed on these so they spent some time in the window before they were clear coated, turned out ok Started assembly by attaching the horizontal stabilizers, so I could get the gaps filled and sanded before the primer coat Then painted the interior with light sea gray...Testor Model Master color, a coat of gloss will be applied before the halves are joined together the throttle quadrant needs to be detail painted seat assembly was painted natural metal the engine assy was painted black and dry brushed with aluminum That's it for today
  16. I’ll pull up a chair for this. Sam
  17. Completed all the outside hammock tie downs. Kinda like the pure white color and now undecided as to stain them or not. I also have started the inside tie downs which take more care and time as not to damage the other detail parts on the deck, figure a couple days to finish all of them inside on the bulwarks. She's moving to the rigging soon, I'll probably make a few custom ropes for certain lines. Will have to pick some specialty wooden blocks also, so I'll be getting those ordered.
  18. Hi all - Another Sunday – well, Monday – another building installment, after a nice diversion into engineering. Working now from the middle funnel down, I began with area between the middle and forward funnels. Here is the relevant section of the plans. Photo analysis provided the rest of the information needed. I started with the bases of the funnels themselves. Here are shots of the middle funnel and the forward one. The colors changed from the troop ship to the liner, but the fittings were the same. There are two types of small vents that had to be made, one with two tapering round plates, the other with a flared cross-head. Of the two, the flared head of the second made it harder to make, so I started with it. After a bunch of failed experiments, I found that I could make a flare in a tube with a pencil. A tea light gave me enough heat to soften, but not melt, the plastic. I held the pencil steady about two inches above the flame and rotated the plastic for even heating. The picture is a bit off, since I found that heating more of the pencil gave me a flare just on the very end of the tube. The flare was cleaned up a bit with sandpaper, then cut to the desired length on the Preac. A short length of brass tube was cut and glued into the flared tube, then a shaft was dished at the top and attached. There are two sizes for these vents and lots of different heights. After measuring and cutting the shafts to length the open ends were filled with toothpicks which also acted as handles for painting. Then the wood was cut off flush and drilled for a soft iron wire that will secure it to the model along with white glue. The round top plates of the other vent were made by punching out three sizes of plastic disc and stacking them so it looks like there is a gap between the top and bottom plates. This was attached to a length of dowel, which was used as a handle to sand down the top plates to a flat angle. Here are those fittings at the base of the forward funnel. I am a bit unhappy with the slightly crude look of the round vents. I could not get that edge as sharp as I wanted, since thin plastic will not take the same detail as metal. But to worry about that level of detail I would have to have 9 years to finish the model, not 9 months. All of life and art is a series of tradeoffs. Next was the area of deck just forward of the middle funnel. Here is the plan. There are a number of structures, but they are all too short to show up on any profile plan that I have, although an artist’s rendering of the cross-section of the ship gives some idea of their shapes. Photos of the area were studied closely to make out the shapes that fit the plans. But most of them are from the liner period, and some seriously creative interpretation had to be done to fit what was seen in the few troop ship photos showing this area. For the most part, the structures here are rectangular, though of different heights and a few with sloped roofs. Most have rectangular or square skylights which will be represented with dark decals. However, in the center of this photo there is a ducted fan that I call, for obvious reasons, a snail. This and other photos show this type of machinery in lots of other locations around the upper deck. They come in several sizes, with varying details, but they all follow a similar pattern. There is a round flat body with a motor on one side sitting on a motor mount. There are intake and exhaust ducts coming off at various angles, with various end caps or fittings. I experimented with styrene and resin, but I am basically a woodworker. Each body was sliced from a hardwood dowel, as was the motor. I did not try to do any detailing of the motor except in the largest sizes. When lying down the disc has its grain running vertically, so it is easy to line up a knife blade and press down vertically. The wood splits cleanly away. Ductwork the width of the body is glued to the cut face and rounded to curve into the disc. It is topped, in this case, by a rounded square cap. After priming, sanding and painting these snails were located, secured and attached to the ductwork shown on the plans or photos. There are two here, along with my best interpretations of the houses, skylights and vents. More than most other areas of the ship, this one shows the changes from the troop ship to the liner. I try to check my progress regularly against photos to be sure that I am not getting too far away from reality. Here is the developing troop ship from a low angle. I think I am on the right track. Just forward of this area there is a large belfry. This houses the largest of five bells on the ship, and the one left over from the SS Vaterland. It was built up from 1/16” scale I-beams. The pieces were gently bent around a form and rubber banded there. A dip in simmering water and a dunk in cold set the U-shapes which were joined at the top at an angle. Cross supports were added and welded in place with liquid plastic cement. After painting the bronze cast bell was mounted. Forward of the belfry is the curved roof skylight over the Social Hall with the individual lights represented by a custom decal. The camouflage scheme was carried up and over since it could be seen from the side. Photoetched railings and ladders were fitted in place as seen in the photos. From the angle of the port bridge wing the model closely resembles the ship and is starting to get the busy look that she had. Nothing draws my eye as being off and, as they say, “If it looks right, it must be right. . . “ Another segment next Sunday, god willing and the creek don't rise. Till then, be well. Dan
  19. This project is too cool. I love what you did with the clog. I have several old clogs in the garage and may just do what you did. I buy my clogs in Holland, Michigan which is a 3 hour drive from me. I wear mine in the winter when shoveling snow and when my edible garden is too muddy. .Marcus
  20. Good to hear from you Jeff, once it warms up a bit perhaps we can get together for a coffee. Michael
  21. Nice work on the mast hoops Vaddoc, I chickened out and used gummed paper for mine. Maybe i shall have a go at some wood ones down the road, looking at how well yours turned out. Michael
  22. Looks great! I assume the thrusters will then be manually rotated (not remote?) I’m interested to know what the intent/benefit is if they’re manual- I could see a remote control set up like the actual ship’s controls being a neat feature for learning the system. But I’m sure there are lots of advantages or uses I’m not considering. Also, I love the Foss seaport museum - I took my kids (1, 3, and 5) a few months back, and they really liked it, especially the interactive old-style fishing boat. I’ll have to catch the next meeting!
  23. I have a little table against the wall of my dining area where I do most of my building. And a full wood shop outside near the house. But, I’ve wanted to make a space for my little Byrnes saw and my spindle sander in the house, as I use them fairly often. So, since my kids have moved out several years ago, I kind of took over part of my son's old room, took a break from building the skipjack, and built this work bench last week. It has a shelf to store my wood, a little vac, a peg board and some lighting. There are no plugs on that wall, so I have to use an extension cord. Quick but serviceable. If I get a little mini lathe again, I can use it there as well, I think, storing it on the lower shelf.
  24. Kortes, Thank you for the tutorial on the sail making, I really like the results. Michael
  25. Thank you all!!! Yes, the work will continue, but until the ice melted on the lake-we fly!
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