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  2. I was pondering with Mrs W the other day about how to dye the sails, I've no experience of dyeing anything, except perhaps standing rigging in wood dye. I have the Rit stuff which reckons one packet dyes two large tee shirts, but to double the dye for a deeper colour. How this equates to two small sails I've no idea. I guess it's a case of suck it and see. I certainly won't be doing the hot cook method on Mrs W's induction hob, that could end in divorce, in fact I'll probably sub-contract the job to her and keep well away from the whole process. My Scottish reference work says that north of the border a deep brown colour was the tradition, whereas the English preferred a reddish, dare I say even pink hue, as favoured by James.😉 Movin' on... B.E.
  3. As the famous cricket commentator Richie Banaud would often say Steven. Simply marvelous
  4. Hello Neddie just came across your log, your boat is looking very good indeed. I think the first lesson to be learnt is "keep going", paying off for you. As far as tools goes i use one of these. Couldn't do without it, no quite PC for some but with the disposable blades, which last a fair while, it makes a lot of things easier to do. I adjust the blade by tapping with a hammer down near the blade. Cheers Chris
  5. Thanks, gentlemen ! I am only partially happy, as not everything turned out quite as crsip, clean and straight as I had wished. Macro-photography is unforgiving. The real moment of truth will come, when everything is painted, because of the clear lacquer used, imperfections are difficult to see. The painting will be done after the summer break. I have in principle the right colour, but it is a Tamiya paint that still needs to be thinned for the airbrush. I will have to get some Vallejo pre-thinned paint, but with the virus still lurking around the corner, we restrict ourselves to the only really necessary outings. I realise now that many of the little details will not, or barely, be seen once the gun is installed on the boat. I probably could have safely let them off. But then I wanted to prove (to myself) that it is possible to create them and also it is quite difficult to predict what will be visible from what viewing angle. Makes you feel good that the details are there
  6. Btw, thanks to Dan at Hobbies.co.uk. few wood supplies in the kit were short and he sorted extra within a week
  7. Thanks RussR, you've inspired me to another post - made a big jump in progress, and been thoroughly enjoyed it. Deck completed, and fitted, in the end a lot of filing was important to make it fit the whales reasonably closely. Top of the mast was interesting - managed to make too wide a gap for the pulleys, so there are two spacers sliced from an applicator pipe from aerosol can to keep them roughly central (and the rod to hold them is a bit of paper clip!) These were fun to do, but not when I realised only 6 are needed! (8 shown on kit box.. 6in plans) And for you RussR, the bodged tools made out of scraps continue, with this. thin stick is at 3 degrees to help drill the mast step, and the pencil is for the waterline.. And now for the rigging, time to review some more info on this site
  8. G'day Pete and welcome to MSW. It looks like you are off to a strong start. yes the planking is certainly a tricky part of model boat building. I am waiting on this kit myself and am very interested in seeing what you do. I know very little about ship boats in general and know nothing of the kit. If you want something to help build up your skills have a look at this, https://thenrg.org/the-nrg-store.php#!/Half-Hull-Planking-Kit/c/41410202/offset=0&sort=normal I just started this one. Thanks for the link to the other log as well. Hooroo Chris
  9. In the last few months my home office has taken up more space. During this time, I pursued another small project: A gunboat from 1801, a Swedish-Russian design (A.F. Chapman), a kit from Master Korabel in 1/72nd scale. But finally, I will begin the rigging of La Topaze. Some details were still missing: The rings for the belaying pins around the masts (they measure 6 mm in dameter), and the railing supports. Now I’m out of excuses. My old serving machine was dusted and is ready… Cheers Gregor
  10. Today
  11. Hello, you've made a good start. Now I'm in no way an expert but perhaps you could put a shim on that last bulkhead or maybe take a bit more off the stern counter
  12. The Plankening, Part 2 As Ive gottent towards the middle of the bulkheads Ive been able to make much neater cuts with the scalpel (the plank widths and spacings however are a complete beans up, but thats a topic for the next post...) At the stern of the boat I found that the path of least resistance was to leave a couple of planks at their full width and then add a stealer plank on each side. The differing width of the stealers does show how sloppy my combined bulkhead sanding, plank planning and plank cutting has been but I am planning to fill + paint the hull rather than apply a clear coat finish. Because of this im not overly concerned with uniformity and ultimate precission with the planking on this model but I do want to be proud of it once Im done with the filler and primer. That brings me up to date (early July) with my progress on this build. Next jobs are to finish the planking (I still have a gap amidships) and get the sanding done. Hopefully ill be able to post an update with this next weekend Stay safe folks
  13. Thanks Jeff, took me ages to decide on the colour scheme, stop, start, stop, start, abandon, start, stop, start.... Never thought it would take as long, guess I was just used to going along with kit colours or minor changes.
  14. Just looking through the new site and in order to create an account or use the instant checkout you have to give them your Id or Passport number. To me that sounds a bit strange. https://artesanialatina.net/en/autenticacion?back=my-account
  15. Frame Build and The Plankening, Part 1 Having read through some of the included instructions (yeah, I know..) and other build threads on this forum I decided that, as a complete beginner, the best thing that I could do with the instructions was to ignore a section of them (yeah, I know..). This kit seems to want the user to build up the hull planking in an unusual way, its probably more beginner friendly but I want to learn more planking skills for future kits so Im going to do my best to plank he hull in a more 'traditional' manner. Anticipating a few mistakes along the way I ordered some extra planking. As you would expect the first thing to do was to build up the hull frame. The bulkheads came away from the sprues easily enough and I only needed to do a bit of sanding to get everything to fit together straight and true. Off to a reasonably competent start at least. At the bow of the boat this kit included a couple of pieces to be glued perpendicular to and ahead of the foremost 2 bulkheads. Looks like the purpose of these pieces is to provide a bit more support and gluing surface to planks as they bend around to the front of the bow. As I was sanding the rest of the bulkheads to fit the bend of the planks I had to remove a lot of material here to get these pieces to fit correctly. It was hard to keep both peices uniform and I think if I were to re-do this kit I would subsitiute these pieces for some balsa wood blocks. Once I started to fit the planks I decided to work evenly upwards from the keel and downwards from the top (?) towards the middle of the bulkheads. I was able to fit full plank lengths, trimming the planks down to about half of their origional width at the bow and stern. Once the top couple of planks had been added there was a supprising amount of strength to the frame, certanly enough to withstand driving a few pins in to hold the planks while the superglue did its thing. One thing that I did notice was that the second bulkhead from the stern seemed to be too greatly recessed at the top of the boat. If I let the planks lie naturally this bulkhead did not seem to offer the planks any support and I was worried that if I sanded away enough material from the other bulkheads to bring it into line then I would mess up the lines of the hull. Everything seemed go fine with the topmost planks missing that bulkhead anyway. One thing I did have trouble with was figuring out the best way to cut my planks. Im sure that this isnt the neatest way but for this build Ive settled on marking out the line I want to cut in pencil, clamping a metal ruler to the line, and then cutting with a scalpel using many passes and a light pressure. Edited for crimes against english
  16. Hi Fantastical work, Amalio, as always. Adrián
  17. Hi Gerry, and welcome. That's a very nice mandolin. I have a violin that belonged to my grandfather with a fiddleback grain on the back like yours. You've done a very nice job. Your bending iron is going to get a fair bit of work - as I recall, the Terror has a particularly blunt bow. Make sure you have a good close look at MSW's planking tutorials - they're invaluable and will help you avoid some of the commoner problems most people encounter with planking. And do start a build log. Nobody will bite, I can assure you. I know it can be a bit daunting putting your stuff up in front of people whose skills are, to put it mildly, amazing. I'm still gobsmacked by some of the builds up on MSW, and even now I feel I'll never approach their skill levels. But everybody was a newbie once, and there are plenty of beginners with build logs here. Your skills as a luthier probably put you in a better position than most people who are just starting out. And don't worry about making mistakes - you're bound to at some point, it's just part of the process, and even the most experienced still do it (though their mistakes are usually much more interesting than mine). But very few mistakes are fatal to the build and just about all of them can be remedied. The members are supportive and encouraging, and very willing to give help and advice. In fact a log is a very good place to ask questions as you progress with your build.
  18. Looking forward to seeing your build log
  19. Nice retrospective, Richard! She's looking good. That's a very attractive vessel, and you're certainly doing her justice. I like the idea of the dummy deck. I've never seen that done before, and I've made a mental note in case I want to try it myself in a future build.
  20. Welcome, Richard! ([Bluebottle voice]Thinks: now I really need to have a look at that build log . . .[/Bluebottle voice])
  21. I feel your pain. I've an AL Endeavour on the shelf with about half the fittings missing that they wouldn't replace. It'll end up as a lower mast only model. Good catch withthe balsa , it'll give the gun stubs something solid to glue to, not much chance of them coming away.
  22. Welcome to MSW, Matthias! I'm not sure - is your fishing boat a model or full sized? Whichever it is, it would be good to see photos!
  23. Hey Folks, A few years ago I bought a Lady Nelson Cutter kit, I had a brilliant time planning out the kit and building the model right up until I got to the first layer of hull planking. I tried to only use the included instructions as a guide to planking and, predictably, completely messed it up. By the time I had removed and re-applied the planking a couple of times the front few bulkheds were a right mess, I got somewhat frustrated with my lack of understanding and packed the kit away. Fast forward a few years and a couple of months into lockdown after browsing this forum (and learning a good bit from the build threads) I decided to have another go. I decided that the AL beginner rated plank on frame kits would be a good place to start. They looked a little faster to build than the Lady Nelson kit and my plan is to build through a few 'simple' models and work my way upwards in complexity. As Im writing this Im a month into the build so I think I can say with a farly high degree of confidence that this will not be the best build that you will glance at today. If you want to read about someone making a better fist of things with this kit I highly recommend the build by JMaitri The AL kit comes pretty well packaged in a reasonably small box, included is a small pamphlet style instruction book with colour pictures as well as a large sheet of plans with details of the rigging and a parts list. The wood its self all seems to be of good quality to my beginner eye, the softwood planking had a few splinters here and there but everything else was straight and true. The kit did have a couple of issues that I dont think were user error but there were no missing parts or warped keel which was a great start
  24. Willkommen an Board, Matthias. Welcome on board, Matthias.
  25. Smaller ships, and especially merchant ships, operating in cooler seas and fresh water usually used something like tar and sulfur on the bottoms. Ships operating in warmer waters used tallow and lime or white lead. Naval vessels often had much more expensive coppered bottoms. Howard Chapelle (The Search For Speed Under Sail, W. W. Norton & Company, New York & London, second printing 1983, pp207-208) says copper plating was introduced by the British in 1761 and it worked well to prevent fouling and attack by wood boring toredo worms. In 1783 they extended it to all Royal Navy ships. However, the high cost of copper plating caused it to be adopted slowly by British merchant vessels. Some American Navy ships had coppered bottoms. It wasn't until the 1790s that copper plating came into use on American merchant vessels, and then only on larger ships. As late as 1822 the lime-and-tallow "white bottom" was still being used extensively in the United States. Because clean bottoms improved speed, many fast sailing American schooners were copper-bottomed after 1795. Privateers were privately built, and often cheaply. The idea was to use a cheaply built ship to bring in prize money during a relatively short period of hostilities. The privateer was somewhat expendable. It was just a matter of profit. And some privateers brought in many times their cost of construction and operation. Unless you know for certain what type of bottom the ship you are modeling had, at the period you are modelling, you can go either way. Modern reproductions like the Lynx use modern anti-fouling paints instead of expensive copper plating. Also, the Coast Guard has regulations about what you can put on the bottom of hulls to reduce pollution.
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