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  2. 77 years ago, 3 Day Battle of Leyte Gulf started October 23, 1944 The Battle of Leyte Gulf, considered the largest naval battle of World War II, begins with the U.S. submarines attacking two elements of the Japanese armada moving towards Leyte. In the Palawan Passage, USS Darter and USS Dace sink heavy cruisers Maya and Atago. Takao is also hit, but survives. Off Manila Bay, USS Bream's torpedoes damage the heavy cruiser Aoba.
  3. This image can be interpreted many ways, I chose to use wood painted white, those McKay used apparently iron on his Flying Fish clipper on her carriage house. Im simply making an artistic move. Rob
  4. Hello Ted - It's Tim in New Mexico (Schooner Yacht America). It's been a long time since I've been to the forum but it's great to see the progress you've made on Bluenose! Top notch work! Also great to see all the experts still building and contributing. After about 2 1/2 years hiatus I've been thinking about opening up the shipyard once again. Cutty Sark has been in mothballs all this time and I'm digging around to try and remember where I was, and the sequences I had figured out to proceed. One immediate task is to find all the reference pictures I had stashed here and there - hundreds of pictures (from the actual CS) from a number of forum folks. Unfortunately that was two computers ago, and I've lost those links. I'm sure I can reconstruct but that'll take a while. I remember now that this kit is so bashed that the kit plans are useless. I was following Longridge with lots of help by Lou and Hof and Nenad and Keelhauled, and a bunch of others here. I'm sure It will all come rushing back as soon as I pick up the Xacto knife again. Anyway, thought I'd say Hi and that I'll be lurking about. Looking forward to seeing the progress on Bluenose - and hopefully Syren at some point. Best, - Tim
  5. Not at all needed with the Focus Shift feature, all the work is done by the camera, a tripod is essential though. Your changing the point of focus without changing the framing of the photo. The camera can’t move, only the focus changes incrementally front to back. The only reason I don’t do more of these is the setup and processing time required, even with the focus shifting done by my cameras.
  6. Imagine the HMS Victory giving you a full broadside at 25-35 meters, bad things are gonna happen😆
  7. Oh, I'm not trashing them, especially if only barely started. Some kits get to a point that with the poor fit, the only thing to do is consign it to the deep. Me and a couple of the more persnickety model builders up here in the highlands always joke about coming to a train show with a CONEX container. We'd buy up all the old, crummy stuff, put it in the container and pay to take it out to sea, rather than watching the same stuff just keep changing hands every year or so. I'm talking about the junque, not the actual collectibles. I have seen ancient kits show up with low, low prices printed on the labels, selling for unbelievable prices, but those are pretty rare at our local shows. When we see these, we get them to our club fleabay dealers and get good returns for them.
  8. There's a lot of videos out there on these firings. All of them are eyeopening and I would hate to be on the receiving end of the gun. I forget which group did it, but they put dummies (mannequins not unwilling humans) on their test targets and amazing how much damage the splinters did.
  9. Today
  10. Don't trash them, Ken. Sell them on Fleabay. I'm surprised at some the prices for vintage kits there. Seems no reason for it but there are collectors out there.
  11. Next batch shipping at the end of next week or beginning of week after, after receiving photo etch delivery confirmation. I put in and paid for (a lot of money) a 'Repeat Order' of Sphinx photo etch sets in August. Due to miscommunication within the Italian PE company, what they sent was one of the 5 sets required, making this my month of hell. Problems now resolved, so all back to normal at the end of next week.
  12. Thanks for posting the photos. I love air shows.
  13. Nice people here, you’ll like it
  14. Ah... once again two countries with a common language but slightly different usage rears it's head.
  15. Evening all, right I got my airbrush out and firstly my Vallejo Black primer went on, dried with the hair dryer - then a few light mid Grey coats went on - I am loving my airbrush. OC.
  16. The secondary pay-off is the increased headroom aft under the quarter deck! A couple of inches would make a difference between having to duck under the beams or not!
  17. Your drawing shows three views: plan view, longitudinal profile, and body plan- sufficient to define the shape of the hull. Hard chine hull forms lend themselves to the POB style of construction described by Richard above. In this case, it would appear that the hull was built with “developable” shapes to allow the use of large panels of flat steel plate. You can imitate this same form of construction with thin model-makers plywood that is readily available. If you decide to carve the hull from a solid, I would use common lumberyard pine. It’s harder than basswood so will better hold crisp edges. Lumberyard lumber is usually designated SPF: spruce, pine, fir. You want pine. Spruce is the lightest of the three and has a distinctive and to me objectionable smell. Pine has a finer grain than either spruce or fir. You may also find a higher grade pine intended for trim work. Here in the Midwest, at least one store is stocking Monterey Pine imported from New Zealand. I don’t understand the logistics but it’s nice stuff. Balsa is much too soft, and basswood marginal. Finding the right piece of wood is part of the fun of scratch building; like a scavenger hunt! You can make life easier by carving two half models to be joined once shaped. I drill matching holes for dowel alignment pins before shaping the hull while the two half hull sections are still square. If you have access to a bandsaw, start by cutting the longitudinal profile with the half hull block laying flat on what will be the finished model’s centerline. Next, fasten each half hull section to something so that the finished model’s centerline is vertical. A piece of aluminum angle works well for this. Now back to the bandsaw to cut the plan view shape. You now should have two wood blocks with the plan view and longitudinal profile view shaped. Now using the longitudinal profile and body plan views, plot the points defining the chine along the hull block. Bend a very thin strip of wood connecting these points and mark out the chine. Using regular woodworking tools, carve the deadrise- the angle that the bottom makes with the sides. Use templates traced from the body plan to guide you. The Mark 1 eyeball is also an excellent tool for finding humps and flat spots in the carved hull. Do as much work as possible before gluing the two half hulls together. Have fun! Roger
  18. After years of building with equipment all over the house which I had to drag out and then store again, I now have a dedicated shop. Yippee! I replaced the original structure which was a shed attached to my barn with the new structure which has heat and air conditioning as well as exhaust fans. I split it into two rooms one of which is for sawing, filing and anything which creates dust. The other room is for metal work and assembly. I also included a fly tying table as I am an avid fly fisherman. I still have plenty of room left over to add tools. I'm thinking of a thickness sander but I don't need it yet. Richard
  19. Rob, very perceptive of you to find those. When I enlarged that image, I also saw the distinct shape of a ship's bell apparently mounted to the rear of the Foremast just above the long House behind it. To me, that's sort of an awkward position for one but it sure looks like a bell to me. I can see the metal stanchions you refer to, but it looks like two sets of wires rigged across them. One runs across the top and another runs just slightly above midway. More confusing still, is that the wires appear to run completely across the forecastle rear with no break for ladders. Speaking of which, I see lower Bulwarks on the Port side, with three equal sets of long rectangular moldings and a bearded sailor crouching down just to the right of them but no visible ladders. Do you think it's possible the crew might have moved them to work on the deck?
  20. I dont know if this is necessarily true. I think depending on your standard, and your capacity you probably can get away with both. However, I perform technical photography for documentation and examination purposes on medium to large size three-dimensional museum/library objects all the time. One facet of these workflows generally include focus-stacked images that can span up to 12" or more of depth and I use a rail. Doing so provides images with far fewer anomalies. Much depends on how you setup your workflow and how you plan your post-processing and the capabilities/resolution of your camera as well as your proficiency with purpose built software.
  21. I done with weathering. These ships on photos seems to have issues with their paint so I did a lot of chipping. Unfortunately after some corrections sea bed proved a bit small unless model will be displayed anchored. I will make a new one with a different method.
  22. Posting a few images from the last 2 week's work on the Revenue Cutter: Rigged the gaff yards for both the fore and main mast... found that with a little downward weight on the gaff yard, it made it easier to apply tension to the line, so put one of the little clamps on the gaff (see below) Boom set in place, topping lift and main sheet rigged to traveler; main stays loosely tensioned: In rigging the various halyards and lines, I found it helpful to affix a clamp to the bitter ends to better organize the tail ends. It also makes it easier to visually follow the lines when adjusting. Yards hoisted, and braces rigged and run to the spiders. Final adjustments still needed (at which point, I will apply a drop of CA to fix their tensioning before adding some rope coils to the belaying pins). By the way, Rigging diagrams are very detailed and easy to follow (plus, having other build logs to refer to has been helpful). In the meantime, I'm working on preparing the ensign and flag halyard, as well as developing some thoughts on the mounting base! More to come! This build is getting close!!
  23. Certainly no apology necessary. It’s your build. I just have faith you’re skilled and dedicated enough to make it right and was just encouraging that. I ripped the sides off Cheerful twice, once after one side was ¾ done. It does, as you point out, show that mistakes happen and if not corrected at the time build and compound on each other.
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