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  2. Maybe an easier way is to take a rolled piece of tape in each hand. Holding it between thumb and forefinger leaving a flattened part to push against the copper and backing. Then gently pull it apart leaving the copper on one side and the backing on the other. I would add pictures, but happen to be out of state seeing our new/first grand son. It might take some testing to see how it works. In the video, I just envision trying to separate the pieces by using the xacto knife as bending at least one corner on every copper plate.
  3. I've completed my spreadsheet tally of 879 blocks (standing and running rigging, less those in the boats) as at this time I believe I will include furled sails. This includes what we normally think of a blocks, plus parrels, hearts and dead eyes. My reference is Steels Rigging Tables for a 74 gun ship. I've considered all sizes from 5" to 56" and the incremental differences at 1:64 scale. As it will likely be difficult to finish sanding a block shape to "exact scale" I believe I would group them so three consecutive sizes (5", 6" , 7") would be one size block (6") as the
  4. Welcome to MSW, Paul. If you did a plastic Bounty, no matter how long ago, you'll find that the skills you developed back then will still be there (if perhaps a little rusty) for your plastic Constitution. However you'll probably find (as I did) that encountering MSW changes your viewpoint of what is possible - and desirable - in your model. Yes, certainly start a build log. The instructions are here ; Have fun with it. Looking forward to seeing your progress.
  5. There is also the option when building a POB kit, of using an offset strip a'la Chuck, down the center of the backbone .. Image from Chuck's Cheerful instructions. Notice the groove created by the rabbet strip, that serves as the rabbet at the stem. Of course, kits that haven't provided separate parts for the stem, keel and sternpost, would not lend itself to this method.
  6. Today
  7. The engines are in place. The landing gear and some small details (which I would surely break off if not done at the very end) and the decals are all that’s remaining. I am going to finish her before returning to the Morgan.
  8. Its somewhat important as it will establish your plank run and port position. Just draw a straight line to the other side along the BH edge. And use that for placement.
  9. So, I ran into another problem and I was going to PM Chuck with this to get his opinion but I thought this forum is the best place to let people know what not to do. The biggest what no to do is to not pay close attention to the monograph. Read and re-read until you are familiar with all steps. As with my last post above, I omitted adding the keel which I fixed tonight. However, reading through the monograph again I noticed a very important piece of information. It states "When installing the bulkheads I made sure that the laser etched reference marks were facing the
  10. Thanks! But Not sure I can visualize this...you seem to end up with the foil plate now stuck to another paper backing...you are just exchanging sides. Not sure how you get the foil off the tape used to separate it from its original paper backing. Seems to me the copper plate still has risk of getting links. Looking for pics!
  11. I did roughly the same, starting it with a knife and making sure I curved the paper back not the foil. Holding with the knife while peeling is a good idea - that I didn't think of. As to gloves, I didn't use those. I find with working at a small scales, my coordination is difficult enough even without gloves. I did not have any issues with fingerprints. I think this varies from person to person. You might want to try first.
  12. Hi Reneke - thank you for the kind remarks! Hope the rest of the build is satisfying. I’ve been immersed in a couple of building projects for many months so the Bounty has been waiting patiently for me to finish her. I converted our garage into a studio where I could work on ship modeling a few years ago, but my wife’s pottery business has really taken off so she now needs the whole space. I am presently building my own workshop on our property and as soon as it’s done I’ll be back in business. Should be back at work on Bounty before winter In my new space and will resume my log to completion.
  13. Ah, the famous "box scale" Revell models. I built this one back when I was seven or eight years old.
  14. Newbee here. Regarding the process of removing the adhesive backing from the copper Plates. We have a similar issue in the RC plane hobby with the covering materials. The covering has a thin layer of heat sensitive glue on the back, and then a layer of protective film on top. To separate the film from the covering we use tape like on the quarter round, but we also use tape on the colored film side. The tape attaches to the film backing on one side and the tape on the other side attaches to the colored film. This allows for an even pull to both protective backing, and the covering side.
  15. Progress so far. Now that we’re out of the boring hull-shaping and sea base carving stage, progress will be a little more quick.
  16. Hello everyone, I'm starting on my next plastic model. This will be my second plastic model. My first plastic model was the Revell USS Missouri. I started with these two models mainly because if I mess them up I haven't lost too much. I opened up the box and was somewhat pleased. Being the model castings were made in the 1950's, the model looks ok. The flashing doesn't look bad either. There is a date molded into the hull "1959". The hull is 17" long and is in two pieces. Holding the two halves together, it doesn't look like it will take very much work to get them to fit good.
  17. Just completed the 1/8 inch insert into bulkhead 18. Instructions do not mention the angle and diagrams seem to indicate the 1/8 inch insert is parallel to the decking, but to me that does not really make any sense. Assuming the 1/8 inch insert should be more even with the slope hull, I made it that way. Hopefully I will not regret this decision later in the build. Insert still need to be trimmed even with bulkhead #18 but the pictures below show it's location (I hope). Temporarily put in the 3/16 rudder shaft to insure the 1/8" insert does not interfere with the rud
  18. And the cannons have wheels... Also decided to paint that steel rod black and fake ends also balck woth circle dots. What would be optimal ring size that goes to eyelet and rooe from back of the cannon runs trough that? Smallest circle infound from hobby shop is 4mm but it too big in my opinion, should be 2-3mm. Great find few days ago. My local handycraft, painting etc shop had great brushes with cheap prices so i got a bunch. 3 times cheaper than cheapest in hobby shop....
  19. OK Robert here goes. About to open Man O’ War. Will have this post bookmarked at my building table. Lot of great ideas.
  20. Thank you very much, Victor and EJ! This next level of the amortisement is fun to make because, while it seems simple, it is actually a pretty complex form. Without having drawn a top plan view, I have to wing-it, a little, when it comes to establishing depth and taper. The first step was to make up a styrene billet. The canopy is 1/4” in height, between the top and bottom mouldings. I made my billet stock a little wider, in order to file in the top and bottom taper necessitated by the tumblehome of the ship’s sides (see pic below). Once I had billet stock
  21. Evening all, a bit more progress today - First I took the Shar outside and gave it a couple of shots of primer, then I put it inside my tub closed the cover and took it indoors, then the eve I attacked a few fittings starting with the drop tanks and the sidewinders - so here we have Two 190gal D.Ts and Two 9Lima's. OC.
  22. Back to the build.... Not much physical progress as several hours have been spent studying the instructions and diagrams. I really want to make sure I fully understand what is going on. Trying to avoid making a decision now that I will regret later in the build. As mentioned earlier, the instructions and diagrams leave a lot to the imagination,,, especially if you are a "newbie" like myself. It seems that every time I go over them I see something I did not realize before.
  23. Turangi, No good deed does go unpunished... I ended up breaking a 3rd bulkhead.... and then two more (of my previously glued bulkheads) broke again when they fell off the table on to the cement floor. On the plus side, they broke in a new location - not where they were previously CA glued. So the good point in all this, is that a drop of CA glue is the answer and these bulkheads are easily re-glued together. With my fat fingers I am sure I have some more bulkhead breakage in my future.
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