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  2. Druxey, here are the technical specifications for the printer. Unlike the plastic type printers that keep the build plate static the resin printers have a vat that the build plate lowers into. The lcd under the vat shoots the uv light where the model needs it for that layer and then the build plate raises and lowers again and the next layer is printed. The layer resolution shows that there can be between 10 to 40 raise and lowers of the build plate to make 1mm. Mine is set at around the 40 raises or 25 microns per layer. Technical Specifications ● Printing Technology: LCD-based SLA 3D Printer ● Light-source : UV integrated light(wavelength 405nm) ● XY DPI : 47um (2560*1440) ● Y axis resolution : 1.25um ● Layer resolution : 25 ~ 100um ● Printing speed : 20mm/h ● Rated Power : 50W ● Printer size: 230mm*200mm*400mm ● Printing volume : 115mm *65mm *165mm (4.52″*2.56″*6.1″) ● Printing material : 405nm photosensitive resin ● Connectivity :USB Port ● Package Weight: 9.5kg
  3. Oar locks, Oars, seats and rudders are assembled: ... and installed along with the rigging pins and rudder davits: The rigging is so much simpler than the usual work! No complaints! Standing rigging including the seat to mast and the oars. I decided to stain the oars and rudders in a contrasting color: Bending the sail to the yard was a simple stitch: My one regret is that I should have ironed the sail before bending it to the yard and hanging it on the mast... oh well! I have a few ideas to remove some of the wrinkles. I'll get to that last. Also, need to straighten out the stitching a little bit! I began working on the remaining rigging. Again, very simple. As you may have noticed in the above (and below) pictures, I chose not to use the the supplied rigging lines and used the lines that I made with my rope making machine. The yard was bound to the mast and the line to raise and lower the yard were completed: The sheet lines are actually made from a copper wire painted white... an interesting idea to keep the sail away from the mast and look more natural: The stand: The fishing net, anchor and line and basket are all that remain to complete this model. I do intend to work on the sail... shaping and removing the wrinkles are the main goals. Gotta check the little things too. Sometimes, I get lost in the big job and forget to look closely for anything that may need a little attention. If you notice anything, please feel free to point it out! The next post will be the final of this build log with pictures of the final build! It will be a few days, as I would like to set up a good photo area and finishing the little bit I have left. Also, once I present it to my dad, I'll post a few pictures of that too!
  4. A little sense of operational perspective: My current testing scenario, depicting a harbor blockade. The three little ships around the center are bomb vessels moving to position (on the first image) and bombarding the fort (on the second), with other ships positioned around.
  5. This is the Schlüsselfeld model, made in 1503 (Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Nürnberg, HG2146, Leihgabe der Johann Carl von Schlüsselfelder) Looks a bit similar! But yes, I think this is a decorative model.
  6. Steven here is the 1mm deadeye up close. It seems to have come out pretty good with the smaller support. I printed 128 of them. I dont envy you trying to thread them.
  7. I decided to take a break from the hull and explore the cool accessories and tools of the trade. The harpoon is the most important instrument of a whaler by far, and the position of harpooneer is one of the most prestigious. Their strength, aim and aplomb are necessary when split-second decisions might mean the life or death of the crew. In the boat, he is second in command only to the officer, and both perform a dangerous dance by switching positions amidst the frantic crucial moments of the hunt. The harpoon is made of an iron rod tipped by sharp barbs (called flues). The wooden piece is usually discarded on impact, serving only as an extension of the harpooneer’s arm. The knots tighten with the pull as the enormous cetacean flees, usually with the whaleboat in tow. The line is stored in special tubs, and coiled in a way that it can be quickly deployed. In the pictures you can see the building of some of these objects: In pictures 1 and 2 the tub for the main line is assembled using small pieces of wood as staves. I loved the color. Pictures 3 and 4 show how the hoops are made from brass strips, curved with the aid of a small jeweler’s anvil. Picture 5 displays the main line-tub, a boat-bucket, a water keg, the lid of the aft compartment used for storing small objects like knives and a compass, and an unassembled harpoon. The tips of the two provided harpoons are just terrible: childish and inaccurate, and do not even remotely resemble the real thing. I tried correcting them at first, but the tip of one of them snapped off—so I decided to upgrade both and make new tips from scratch (which turned out to be epoxy putty). It was hard to work with, difficult to mold and then kept breaking every time I tried to sand it into shape once hardened. I had to repeat the process several times. In the end I had to compromise with a less-than ideal final shape (at least by my standards) to save some sanity and keep the momentum. Picture 6 shows the first harpoon, assembled and with proper colors. The harpoon itself was painted matte black to resemble the iron of the epoch, and the wooden shaft was stained to look like hickory. The second harpoon will have a toggle flue. In picture 7 you can see a small element built from scratch that the kit does not include: the steering oar strap and brace. For authenticity, we needed this. Once the shafts are glued to the irons, picture 8 shows the harpoons being rigged. Two different types of yarn were used, with different coarseness and diameters. All knots are period-accurate, and actually work! In picture 9: both harpoons finished and a whaler’s lance made from scratch. Unlike the zamak harpoons, the lance is made of steel and it is sharp enough to be dangerous. The shaft is also meant to be as accurate as possible. All finished wooden pieces were coated in three layers of varnish for protection from the elements. I want my model to last a long time. Overall, making these tiny murderous things was quite fun. Up next: hull’s painting and staining.
  8. Today
  9. I’m planning on running three sections. Cutting them in in similar fashion as I did with my Great Republic
  10. Generally conditioners are called for for soft woods like pine, or fir plywood, which otherwise can absorb stain unevenly and give a "blobby" appearance.
  11. ` You know, having spent 13 years working on a real ship, this is just par for the course. These are scars that tell a story, which is all good. There was that time when we came into port and ends up the bow thruster had corroded away and fallen out, and the captain tried slide it up to the dock... and well it didn't work so well.
  12. The planking work is very nice. Are you planning to paint or go for a bare wood second planking with some kind of attractive veneer? It will look great either way, just curious. George K
  13. @Bill Morrison Appreciate the comment, Bill. And I agree with you. The flag material is very thin but stiff. Any suggestions on how to make it look more natural? This was my first build so I'm a little short on skills.
  14. Thanks Pat, I am having another go at the 1mm version as we speak. I will take Henry (the staffy) for his morning walk and when we get back they should be done. Paul
  15. Major problem today. I was close to finish planking the starboard side when I opened a tool cupboard above the Cheerful work area and when I reached in to get something and the waterline marker fell on the Cheerful. At first it looked undamaged but then I saw a gouge and a long scratch down the side. Most of the repair will be fairly easy as it is above the 1/16" plank but the gouge is on two planks above the wales. I don't feel as if I need to replace the wales and 1/16" moulding as there will be a second layer. The two planks will have to be dug out and replaced. (good thing I've had so much practice) I think I'll go ahead and finish the planking especially since I trimmed and bent the after two pieces. And while at it I make the repairs to the damaged planks between ports 5 and 6. Keep telling my self it could be worse and landed on the boat and knocked it to the floor breaking things. On to repairs tomorrow
  16. This looks really terrific, Tom. I look forward to seeing this in person, in New London!
  17. Rob, welcome back! I hope you enjoyed your trip. The coppering process is so beautiful, even at this short beginning.
  18. That does look nice Craig - I think the Grey/Black shades make her look longer (and she was already long at 860 feet) OC.
  19. Well back from North Dakota...I spent a bit working out the plating....I removed the tape and began the work...... I'm using the remainder of what was left over and I will be making more in the next couple of days. Not much time today to work but here are some starter images.
  20. Brian, I was originally unsure but seeing it done I like it a lot. As Mark requested, more photos if possible, please. You need this for your Cairo collection. https://www.ebay.com/itm/154046974912?hash=item23ddea4bc0:g:kwsAAOSwuhZeY~OY
  21. I like it also. Usually, cut outs I've seen are rather irregular but with yours I think the paint sets it off so a viewer won't think it's part of the hull. Can you post a photo from side?
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