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  2. Congratulations B.E. Also the presentation with that group of blackened figures - showing quality but not drawing away attention from the main object - is another stroke of genius. Cheers Peter
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  4. Hi Mark, fantastic work, very inspiring. For rope dyeing, you might consider getting a copy of "Valkenisse" by Rob Napier. On pages 156 to 158, he reports good results with Pro Chemical & Dye in Somerset, MA. He also outlined his method. BTW, his book is book is a treasure drove of tips and information. This is one of my 'go to' books. Duff
  5. Behind the mizzen mast is normally the companion/skylight which is shown on most models including the Diana models in the NMM my plans show a normal grating here but with a raised coaming ,on the plan from above just a square with companion written on it and on the profile a flat grating and coaming, does anyone have any ideas how I should show this? A grating or skylight that is the question? Which would be appropriate, the Diana book shows a skylight?
  6. As a diversion while doing the knees (for some reason they get right into my head) I made a new mould for the cheerful guns after adding a tompion, kings cypher and gunlock cover The new mould can be seen below and behind is how they come out before trimming, painting etc I also added a breeching ring above the cascable which hou can just make out in the photo
  7. So after trying to find every excuse I could to put off the lodging knees I have finally managed to finish them, hence the few weeks since last entry I have also worked on the mizzen mast step and associated gratings etc
  8. I got to fly a Stearman at an airfield north of Charlottesville where you could rent various biplanes and aerobatic planes. You had to take an instructor with you, but if you were certified for tail draggers you could take the entire flight. Really a wonderful airplane to fly, controls very responsive without being too much and control forces are not huge, although I never approached the Vne (don't go this fast) speed, so they might get heavier at high speed. But on a nice summer evening in Charlottesville with the sun setting over the mountains, it's a really fun experience being in a sweet biplane with an open cockpit and a giant radial in front of you, you end up flying big arcs back and forth because it feels like you can point the nose anywhere you want so you get to pointing the nose around. And easy in a loop, don't have to dive much for the needed speed and it just has the to be expected significant rudder input up and across the top and back down as the p-factor of the big prop tries to yank the nose around. People tend to think of gyroscopic forces from the prop would be a problem, but in reality the vast majority of the time the p-factor that varies continuously with your angle of attack is what the pilot is fighting. It basically causes asymmetric thrust that yaws the nose one direction the higher you point the nose, and in the opposite direction the lower you point the nose. Jack, that one was in USAAC blue and yellow also, your colors look good, I recall the yellow being on the green side. You've also done very well with the assembly, nice and clean and the decals are well done so they'll look very good once they get their final flat coat. It's a nice model to put up on the shelf and if you want to get rid of it for some reason I'll find room for it on my shelf
  9. I'm with Druxey on that one, why not buy the gutermann in the colour you need, chuck recently gave the codes out for the colours in his log on rope that were requested by a museum, I went to a sewing shop and got the colours I needed ie hemp and dark brown etc Regards Paul
  10. Hi Peter, Sorry - just catching up with modelshipworld, so this information may be too late. I ordered the following: Boxwood Flat Lines Approx. 0.7mm Thick 1 Metre Long 4x option 1: 4.5mm Boxwood Flat Lines x 10 (40 in total) 1x option 1: 3.4mm Boxwood Flat Lines x 10 (10 in total) Black Flat Lines Approx. 0.7mm Thick 1 Metre Long 1x option 1: 4.5mm Black Flat Lines x 10 (10 in total) I also ordered a strip of 6mm square, which has proved helpful for carving small shapes for the rails round the top. In retrospect, I wish I'd ordered slightly more. I used the black flat lines to second plank the wales (in theory to avoid having to paint the wales, although I ended up staining these as well (walnut from the layer beneath was showing through. Anyway - hope that helps. Rob
  11. I'm just going to shorten it to SOA: Singing Of Angels.
  12. The Anatomy Of the Ship Dreadnought shows you how the British did theirs.
  13. I would get them to do 300 hours community work, at the modelling club. Should be enough to build their first model...😉
  14. I do know the feeling No deck in this boat. If you're talking about the green line, think of it as a potential bulkhead actual height yet to be decided. Otherwise, the sheer is the same height at the bow and stern.
  15. Let me think some more and do some reading. Or maybe I'm just confused which is probable. From here, it looks like you're setting the deck line at same height at the bow and the stern. I hope I'm wrong.
  16. Thanks for the response. I also did some research and probably saw the same stuff you saw. I wish there were "attachment points" one could order. I found a Northstar product of turnbuckles and eye bolts, but they are extinct. They are also 1/350, but I think they'd be find for this purpose. Going to have to figure out what to do. Thanks again.
  17. I searched on line for everything I could find that might show the rigging. There were some rudimentary line drawings that helped, and there was the official Mikasa website that shows photos of the ship on display at it's permanent home in Japan. Between the two, I was able to establish a best guess. And yes, I used some of my own attachment points to tie off the rigging on the decks and various other locations. Mostly I used photo etch pieces that were salvaged from other sets not related to the Mikasa. I highly recommend looking closely at the Seydlitz build thread found here: RGL did a masterful job of researching then rigging the torpedo net booms. Quite a complex rigging scheme. Pontos does include most of the attachment points for the net rigging, but no instruction on how to rig it. The booms, rigging and nets on the Seydlitz are very similar to those on Mikasa, If I ever get around to it, I will use RGL's example to rig my Mikasa.
  18. Gidday tigerdvr and a warm welcome from the Land Downunder. You have fulfilled the main criteria in selecting a subject to model, " it caught my interest". I admire the customization and wish you all the best in your build. Mark.
  19. Fantastic work! I also am working on this same kit. How did you determine where and how to rig it? The Pontos kit has no mention of that whatsoever. Did you add your own parts? I'm almost done! Just down to the rigging. Hope to hear from you.
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