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  2. Hey Vince, hello. I would like to ask one more question to you. For the outside bearing support of the shaft of the paddle wheel there is only one cross section drawing. On this drawing it's said that there is a hole 15'' Dia. So I assume that this support is box like construction (like prisma) , two triangular side plates and the front is also covered with a plate with a hole in center. But in such a case it would be always water at the bottom of the box. Is that plausible or how can this construction be? Do you have any idea ? Ilhan
  3. Today
  4. A bit of a lull while I got on with some sundry stuff- I had raise the forward gallows a few mm, add some sundry spars and spare planks and finally build another couple of boats. The basis of these two top imaginary boats were as before, a Billings kit of two plastic 20th century lifeboats but some not-so-subtle modification and lots of added woodwork they look just a little bit like various examples I've seen on this and other forums. Apologies for the lack of fidelity but my imagination is happy 😉 I'm slowly gaining confidence at 'how to do it' and one day may even get it to be accurate! But not yet.....this is still very much the A.S. ship - warts and all. Just with my 'improvements'. Still having fun. Pat
  5. Good morning John and Eberhard, Thanks for your comments, and also to all those who clicked the "likes".... John, I had a broad smile from ear to ear when I read your lines..... Think its just that what we remember as the good old days, compared with the regulations all over, we have for everything today. The exhaust pipe should get a little plate fixed with warning "hot, do`nt touch, danger of being burnt, plasters, bandage and Asperin in the cabin" Eberhard, when I read asbestos the "red light" went on in my mind straight away, bearing all the facts you mentioned Nils
  6. Your hm Pickle looks great Rob! Did you use the Mantua figures on your ship?
  7. ...and music of the epoque to give some acustic idea of my mood for this project to you. Okay, that's me! I am building at the Revell Peter Pan JOLLY ROGER when The dream of a Louis XIV. commode crossed my way and I am attacked by the beauty of a single golden detail: the FAUNUS. s a mythological figure a horned god of the forest, plains and fields; when he made cattle fertile he was called Inuus (there the link to DE ROODE BUL). He came to be equated in literature with the Greek god Pan. So the idea is to develope a freelance ship - as 20 years ago with my gardenrail locos. As I understand Dennis right with his JOLLY ROGER it is a nice basis for experimenal work, there are not very much building threats floating around in the www - so I'll use her as a trial support. FAUNUS must get a new transom and I tend to lift the aft end of the hull a bit to get a higher transom with a larger couronnament. I will try some experimental work to the craving imitation and as a Frigat de Plaisire* I can add just a little bit more akanthus leafs and gold than typicaly would be found. For the coloursheme I found a second furniture as source of inspiration. And it was already done at L'AURORE 1766. Ant the flourish green fits to the natural godness auf faun. And the figureheads prototype is also found: What I tried first was to get a nice and individual nameplate Here from the TAUREAU BLANCE- the "White Bull" the name for 2nd Revell JOLLY ROGER kit (as I decided not to build the Peter Pan film ship). And the trail to get an individual nameplate by using the A basic appearance for N and U, too. {Doodling while phoncalls can be more creative than the hole call - giving you a success that is not in the call until you realize it and turn the conversation to fun, smiling and a bit of nonsense and you end up in the business call with a pretty good result.} I know it is spleeny - but better spleeny with a smile than grumpy with a heart attack. Take care! *...and with a thirteen gun boardside you can sink your competitor d'amoure easily but soundfull on the canals of Versailles.
  8. Ah tnx Rob! Great to hear the compliments! And tnx for the explanation, that makes a lot of sense. Yes i understand they need to make compromises with the kits to make it affordable. I would like to see in the future that you can buy upgrades for a kit, just like they did with the hms Fly from Victory models. Then you can decide for yourself how much compromises you want to make :D...but maybe that's one step away of scratch building the pieces by yourself.
  9. Hi mugje, I expect solid walnut at that sort of size would have been too fragile as it would split along the grain... plywood walnut is a better material for the task, but it does bring with it the challenge of tidying it.up to look neat. The alternative would be a harder finer grained wood such as european boxwood, but it's very expensive compared to walnut. Well done with those carronades! They look fantastic... much neater than my effort... Pickle was my first wooden model too. Keep up the great work. Rob
  10. Praise the names of the creators of the internet and this forum. Way back in the 80s when I was struggling with the text written by a 17th century Amsterdam lord mayor to find out how he created an image of the 134 feet long pinas, there was no-one I could ask for help. Look how it is today. We are living in a blessed time! Thank you Radek an Tomek for sharing your thoughts and knowledge and thank you Tim for the reference to the videos (you don't have to thank me for doing my privileged job, I was well payed, but thank you fore the compliment). Thank you David for showing your results with paper sails. They are impressive and very disciplined. I'm jealous. I will soon find out if I can make paper bellow like these textile sails on returning busses: Thanks to you all I have a new task: finding the right Japanese paper (Silkspan is not available in Europe for as far as I have been able to establish. American sites won't help out, Radek) and finding my ways with it. This is a whole new inspiration for me. In due time I will bother you with the results. For now: back to work.
  11. Shortgrass, I feel your pain. Clamps are a good way to go but there will be a point where there is no where to get a clamp in place. I have 7 our 8 scrap pieces of steel blocks that I use to hold things down when necessary. Put a piece of scrap wood between the steel and the part to be weighed down to avoid putting dents in the wood. I picked these up from a small machine shop that had a barrel of scrap and they were happy to give them to me for free. Allan
  12. Hi, nice to see HMS Enterprize building. I am building the same since one year, and finishing hull planking and treenails. Regards, Rafał
  13. It's needing some paintwork when it's finished but it looks already good now. It's really small! Almost to small for my trembling fingers haha. And i find it a bit weird that Caldercraft didn't use solid pieces of walnut, but a kind of plywood idea with two small layers of walnut and something cheaper in between. A bit of a compromise.
  14. I built a plank-on-frame model about half a century ago using small metal nails that were supplied with the kit. I just looked at it again and the nails are still there and have not rusted. I pushed the nails in so the heads were below the plank surface and then filled in over the nail with something (probably a mixture of wood dust and glue) and sanded it smooth. However, the nail locations are visible if the light angle is right. I used a pin pusher of some sort, and it took a bit of practice. You have to concentrate and use a steady push perpendicular to the plank surface. If you do not push very close to perpendicular the nail will bend over and make a nasty dent in the plank. But I remember it wasn't hard after I learned how. The hull planks were thin and the plywood frames offered little resistance. You do run the risk of missing the frames or splitting them - the nail won't hold in either case. I am pretty sure I did not drill the holes for the nail before pushing them in. I probably pushed the nail in as far as I could - with the heads "proud" above the planks - and then hammered them with a punch to get them below the plank surface. **** I agree with the others that just gluing and clamping the planks is better than messing with the nails.
  15. I really like my Dremel Scroll Saw that I got through Home Depot (should be $60, maybe a tad less). The saw is very accurate and easy to use, the only one issue I have is no tilt-base (although I don't really need it thanks to my disc and belt sander). I have yet to get a modeling table saw nor do I have any lathe as of yet. Small steps but do what I can with what I have. Brian
  16. flip the wood Jolene, it doesn't need to be an exact copy of the curvature. Preshaping is to lessen the tension on the wood when bent. Glueing it to the hull bit by bit is one option, you can glue the entire caprail if you have enough clamps to fixate it to the hull, which is, actually, not much different than doing it piecemeal. Keep it up
  17. Sounds like my kind of cooking. Sober or otherwise.
  18. I agree! Somehow I never put Australia and snow together, and seeing Kangaroos hopping along in the white stuff seems like something right out of Alice and Wonderland!
  19. The frames were finally completed. They were held in place for the PVA glue to dry with a clamp at the gunwale strake and a pin at keel. The thwart risers were also attached with PVA glue at a distance below the top edge of the gunwale strake as indicated on Sheet 2 or the plans. The risers were made from kit supplied 1/16” x 1/4” strips.
  20. WOW Ron! What did you do to tick off the clock? Or possibly the cats! What a rude awakening! Hope you start healing and don't have any after effects.
  21. Well here we go again. I am not much of a lighthouse person normally but I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with on this one. The lighting kit looks pretty top quality as well. Don't forget the popcorn.
  22. I think that should read 1.1" guns. 11 inch guns would have been almost as large as the main guns.
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