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Unaligmiut Qayaq
Harvey Golden
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Harvey Golden
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Deerskin-covered kayak model.  This kayak type was used by the Yup'ik of Norton Sound, Alaska.  Model is 18" long; full size would be in the 16-17' range.

6 Comments

56 minutes ago, DelF said:

 How did you reproduce the skin covering?

I used scraps of parchment deer rawhide.  I soaked them until they were pliable and thick, and sewed three scraps end-to-end, and then made a "sock" with the front half, pulled it onto the frame, and then sewed up the back deck ridge (adding extra pieces as needed).  The bow aperture was then cut open and then stitched to form.  The skin is sewn to itself below the cockpit coaming rim.  Essentially the same general process as a full-size one would have been made, but they would have used double water-proof stitching, which is hard to do at this scale.  Once done, the drying skin tightens in place (and puts a tremendous strain on stitching and the frame itself). 

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Ahh, you are interested in kayaks too ! And canoes ?

 

A few years ago I happened to work in one of the French institutes for Arctic studies and as a kind of bonus lesson we could give on a pet subject, I gave one on kayak typology and construction.

 

Where did you get the drawings from, form Adney & Chapelle (1964) ? I have quite a collection of books on indigeneous kayaks. However, as I am working in small scales, kayaks are not so interesting and practical subjects.

 

Talking about Adney, a bark canoe, perhaps a 'voyageur' one, is also on my list.

 

Eberhard

Edited by wefalck
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1 hour ago, wefalck said:

Ahh, you are interested in kayaks too ! And canoes ?

 

A few years ago I happened to work in one of the French institutes for Arctic studies and as a kind of bonus lesson we could give on a pet subject, I gave one on kayak typology and construction.

 

Where did you get the drawings from, form Adney & Chapelle (1964) ? I have quite a collection of books on indigeneous kayaks. However, as I am working in small scales, kayaks are not so interesting and practical subjects.

 

Talking about Adney, a bark canoe, perhaps a 'voyageur' one, is also on my list.

 

Eberhard

Dear Eberhard,  Yes, kayaks are an interest of mine.  I saw the skin boat bibliography you had posted, and I am one of your authors on the list (I've since come out with another title on Alaskan kayaks).  I build very few models of kayaks because I typically build them full-size instead: http://www.traditionalkayaks.com/Kayakreplicas/KayakReplicas.html .  I have built replicas from Chapelle's drawings as well as others, but have mostly built from my own drawings and research in museums and private collections.  Thank you and all the best,  Harvey

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  • Image Comments

    • No worries Bob....always learning, the best part about all of this....
    • Beautiful model! I have the POB on the shelf for a future build down the road. Thanks for explaining your paint and stain scheme.
    • Hi Mike,
      Thank you for your further explanations!
      I have now a good understanding of the principle of how you made the case. I am looking forward to your additional photos! No hurry from my side, because there is still a lockdown in my country, so I cannot buy materials...
      I intend to make my case 102 cm by 35 cm wide and 75 cm height. I assume that this is close to your dimensions (and weight...).
      Andre
    • Yes, it took 2 people for the large panels. Most of your statements are correct, the top was done differently. They are only rectangular strips that fit into a shoulder I milled on the outside tops of the verticals deep enough so the strip (when attached) make the outside edge of the glass trough (of the verticals) allowing the panels to slide in and out. Then the cover is screwed to the verticals locking the whole thing together. The total weight of glass would have been ~ 160 lbs so I went with Plexiglass which was only about 75 lbs but more expensive. I under estimated both the weight of material as well as the cost for a case this size. I will try to post (or send to you directly) photos to help explain, however, it is at my sons house so it may be a few days. In the meantime let me know if you have any questions and thanks for your interest.
      Mike
    • Hi Mike,
      Thank you for taking the time to explain. I understand somewhat better. If you would share additional photos: that would be great!
       
      I have understood that your horizontal wooden strips have an extenting part at the bottom so that it fits into the base grooves. I assume my milling the excess away.
      Is it the same construction at the top?
      I have seen in your photos that the glass is held in place by clip-skrews. I assume that the horizontal wooden strips at the top are only at the outside, to allow the sliding of the glass?
      Did you need assistance for sliding in the big glass panels, because of the weight?
       
      Thanks! Andre
       
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