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  2. message passed over, hopefully there will be some sort of reply
  3. she looks so beautiful, Kevin!!! 🙂 Best to you -Heinz-
  4. Jim Lad

    Hello from Port Chester, NY

    Hello, and another welcome to MSW from 'Down Under'. John
  5. Go here: Pick wooden ships and it will download that part of the database of builds to your computer.
  6. I am resuming a build of the Mantua Albatros "Goleta tipica de Baltimora" - a Baltimore clipper, fitted out as a revenue cutter. I started the kit back in the mid 1980s and finished planking the hull. Then other things came along (buying a house, getting married, etc.) that left little time for ship modeling. The partially completed hull has resided on my bookshelf for about 30 years. I really like the lines of these ships so I decided to resume the build, but I am not sure what it will end up being. I am building it to get experience with a few new techniques. This is the 1980s kit, and it is different from the latest Mantua Albatros kit description on line. The new kit has a false deck, apparently of thin plywood, and the 1980s kit does not. The newer kit seems to have mahogany hull planking, and the older kit used tiglio or lime wood. The older kit came with two drawing sheets, hull construction and sail plan, plus brief instructions. The Mantua web site says the new kit has three drawings, and at least one appears to be the same as the 1980s kit. The 1980s "instructions" are a joke - one page saying to assemble the hull frames, plank the hull, assemble the base, build the masts and finish the rigging - just about that brief! For me this isn't a problem. I have been researching and scratch building plank on bulkhead models since I was a kid. I have searched and found no record of a Baltimore clipper named "Albatros." The kit name suggests Mantua's "famous" ship is just "typical" of a Baltimore clipper. Looking at the plans for the model and plans for actual Baltimore clippers I can see quite a few differences. This raises several questions, and I would appreciate any help you can offer. 1. Scale. The 1980s kit plans and instructions give no scale. Comparing with other ships I guessed it was about 1:64 scale. Some sites say the Mantua model is 1:55 scale, and the latest Mantua web site says it is 1:40 scale. The model is about 27" long (tip of bowsprit to end of the spanker boom), and this is what Mantua says is the length of their latest Albatros model. The waterline (length between perpendiculars) is about 17 inches. This would give a full scale hull length between perpendiculars of: 1:40 - 56' 4" and about 70 tons 1:55 - 78' and about 100 tons 1:64 - 90' 8" and about 180 tons Baltimore clippers were constructed in approximately all of these sizes between 1800 and 1820. Since the model has only six cannons plus one larger gun on the centerline, I assume the 1:40 scale is close. There were several 60 foot ships built. Any thoughts? 2. Mast angles. The Mantua plans show the rake of the fore mast to be 2-3 degrees and the main mast to be 5 degrees relative to the water line. I examined plans and drawings for 17 Baltimore clippers and found the mast rakes to be: Fore mast - 11.5 degrees average, with a range of 7-16 degrees Main mast - 13.75 degree average, with a range of 8-22 degrees The rake of the masts is one of the outstanding characteristics of these ships, and none were as boring as 3-5 degrees! I plan to build it with 11.5 and 14 degree rakes. 3. Deck fittings. The Mantua kit has four hatches with gratings and one flat solid hatch on the deck. Looking through Chapelle's books I see that almost all of the revenue cutters had some form of low deck house and companionway, even the small 30 ton ships. I think I will build deck fittings similar to an actual 70-80 ton revenue cutter. 4. Stern. Most Baltimore clippers had either round tuck or square tuck transoms. A few appear to have had curved transoms. The kit plans seem to show an odd flat stepped square tuck like nothing I see in any of the Baltimore clipper plans. In any case, when I started the kit in the '80s I constructed a curved transom faired into the hull lines, more like some of the later schooners I have seen. It may not be accurate for an 1815 revenue cutter, but I am not going to deconstruct the hull and start over again! 5. Colors. The hull was painted with white lead below the waterline. Chapelle says American schooners after the Revolution were painted yellow topside with black trim. In the early 1800s they were painted yellow topside with a broad black stripe along the gun ports. Deck houses were white or light gray, and bulwarks could be red, brown, green, blue, white or varnished. The kit box cover shows a broad yellow stripe along the gun ports with brown/black trim, and yellow bulwarks with brown/black trim. I am inclined to use the broad black stripe along the gun ports (between the main deck and cap rail) with yellow trim above and white below the waterline. The bulwarks will be white or yellow, and the deck furniture white. 6. Deck planking. I am familiar with nibbing, but this didn't come into practice until the mid 1800s. Before that planking was tapered and hooked. I have though about this, and read the few tutorials on deck planking, and I just don't understand the procedure. If you start planing at the center line and work outwards, you apparently have to curve the outermost plank while laying it and then cut into the previously laid plank to create the hook. Nibbing is a lot simpler! By the 1850s planking on revenue cutters was nibbed, so I guess I could build the ship as a mid 1800s revenue cutter. But I need the practice with the hooking technique for the next build I am planning to make (Rattlesnake). I guess I will create a CAD plan of the deck and practice making the hooked deck planking. I'll post some pictures of the 1980s hull and current modifications later. Phil
  7. Today
  8. Interesting you should say that, I have been looking for more information, than is in John's book about specific aspects of rigging. Vaddoc nice work on the jaws and a sweet gift for your daughter. Michael
  9. torpedochief

    Getting better at making these pens

    What a hoot and great therapy for PTSD! I have learned to resin cast blanks for making pens. I am using wood from the battery wells of decommed subs. Found a place that also has Dolphins pen clips.
  10. another short update today I made a small 8 inch cleat to fix the topmast forestay. A piece of 1/8 inch brass strip that was 1 inch wide was drilled for the mounting holes in the mill then the bottom was shaped while still attached to the strip. I made it the same way as this earlier one. The new one slightly different obviously acquired from a different manufacturer. the screw were turned out of some of the home depot 3/16 brass rod it is free machining and I like to use the 3/16 because I can turn down to the final diameter in one pass because the work is supported as reduce the diameter. I ground the parting tool to the angle of the countersink. in order to cut the head. they are 0x80 threads again the slot was cut with the jewelers saw. It is a lot of fun making these small bits and pieces. Michael
  11. Beautiful job! A fine model indeed!
  12. Thank you for the compliment! I glued the netting to the inner edges of the crane irons with contact cement. I found it easier to work with than CA glue. In places where the contact cement was insufficient, I supplemented it with CA gel. Gluing them to the ropes was unnecessary in the quarter deck and forecastle areas due to the stiffness of the netting, but necessary at the waist. I cut the strips of netting oversize, then trimmed them with small scissors. Touch up with black paint was needed as I left the eyes of the irons unpainted so that the ropes would slide through easily, and the contact cement was not always invisible when dry. Before gluing in the netting, I treated the ropes with CA liquid to stiffen them so that they could further stabilize the irons. As I worked, my depth perception was challenged more than I expected. I must have looked like the guy in that iconic "hanging chads" photo.
  13. Been a long while but I have been hard at work on the Ethan Allen SSBN 608. The model is in bad shape internally. I had to do some exploratory and repair surgery to the wood frames inside. The fiberglass is not all that great, to begin with, and is fragile. The hull is also warped and hogged fro years in extremes. After using an extremely hot water bath I managed to get the hull back into shape. The interior was cleaned scraped and then primed and repainted. Not knowing the state of classification of these old systems I opted to play it safe and rebuild the model in an unclassified version. Many former crewmembers are providing an entire ream of documents and pictures to help out Most parts are designed in SKETCHUP. I am using original drawings and piping tab as a "base," for design. This is where I stretch my artistic license to the max. My goal is to show the components of the boat, not get the viewer qualified in submarines. Once parts are designed, scaled and corrected in NETTFAB. I use MAKERBOT to 3d print the items Since just about everything is missing I needed to get the bulkheads and decks made. I am using 1/8" plexi for this part. I am finding that the model was very inaccurate when it comes to deck spacing and through ship passage, but again the model was not meant to be accurate. Needing to distract myself from the enormity of the project. I am eating this elephant a little at a time and moving from task to task. I have laser cut templates for scribing exterior details not present in the original model. As of now most of the Engineering spaces are complete. The ops compartment will feature actual wood paneling. Kinda ironic that the real boats have plastic paneling.
  14. Jaager

    Hello from Port Chester, NY

    Barrels, check the site database or the online journal for ways to make them. You can get a dowel that is close to the diameter and use a drill to turn it to the arc cross section shape. If nothing is closer, there is a Wood Craft in Norwalk that has veneer to cover the dowel plug. Trying to think of a way to reuse the same plug and assemble the staves. Best I can come up with is a second dowel that is the diameter of the ends, that the staves can be glued to at either end. Maybe a band of paper or cardboard as support for the middle. Cover the ends with veneer. Come to think of it, just use cardboard instead of veneer, if you are good at painting faux wood. Or if you have a good graphics program, down load a wood texture from a graphics site and print it on paper.
  15. pontiachedmark

    Hello from Port Chester, NY

    Gidday Armchair Admiral and a warm welcome from the land Downunder. Your model is looking good. You will find loads of support and encouragement here. If you haven't already you may want to search the build logs for your vessel or similar. All the best with your build. Mark.
  16. This was donated to a submarine group called THE AFTER BATTERY, it was donated to them and they asked me to restore the old Girl.
  17. The main capping rails should now be bent to shape a little more easily. Leaving them in place over the weekend worked quite well. The trim for the rails does not look to be an easy job. Rather than the brass wire, I have found some profiled walnut with the right dimensions. I will try to fit it in three pieces: the first around the curve of the bow to the beginning of the main capping rail; then another break near the bulkhead. The timber was well soaked and then left to dry in the gunport shaper supplied in the kit. Despite this the curve in the timber was not quite right and the photos show them dry fitted and clamped where I will leave them overnight. They will be painted before being permanently fitted. Here is a suggestion for shaping the stern fascia capping - a good soaking, then fitting the timber strip into the hole from which the fascia comes.
  18. Armchair Admiral

    Hello from Port Chester, NY

    My hobbies: beekeeper, painter, model ship maker! It wasnt my goal to get hobbies that rhymed but there you go. Just started my first build which is a pretty straight forward Chesapeake Bay Skipjack by Midwest Products. Really nice kit. Lots of introductions to new techniques, no planking but thats the next model. I wanted something to learn from and to make mistakes on that was not too expensive. Actually most of the cost has not been the model but in all the ancillary items to help me build it (paint, tools, brushes etc) Thoroughly enjoying this one so far. Customizing it a little with some oars, and some oystering tools. I'd love to make some barrels but am not sure how. Next up is the sails and that has me stumped. i never thought one would paint the sails with a lacquer. That really threw me sideways. lots of research yet to do
  19. Hello Doris, What a magnificent piece of art you are creating! I am literally feasting my eyes, again and again. Cheers,
  20. I know from experience what that is like. I started like gangbusters on my Phantom, but gradually the interest started to wane. A friend of mine requested I build a plastic whaling ship model of the Wanderer that I had sitting on my kit to build shelf for him for a change of pace. That is working for me so far, especially as I make some drastic modifications to the kit, and even started a build log for it. I would still be at it pretty heavy right now, if it wasn't for my elevator woes right now. And while I'm waiting for parts of the whaler to dry, I often switch back to the Phantom for a bit of variety.
  21. Jack staff was attacked today... Carved on the lathe to correct length and dimension. Than the top was tipped into black paint and it was glued to the cap... Two pieces of 28 gauge wire was used to simulate brackets.. Happy modeling.
  22. Antonio Vasquez

    Boom rigging question

    Thanks for explaining that to me. The info really helps.
  23. It's looking great - all that extra work will save you so much time on the planking. Wish I'd thought of that for mine. Outstanding prep work!
  24. When I did the brass on my Revell Coast Guard Cutter (build is on MSW), I followed the tips I found online on several sites when I googled the topic. The consensus was to soak the brass in full strength vinegar for 10-20 minutes. This will remove any finger oils, etc, and microscopically etch the brass. After the soak, rinse with water and dry the parts. ( I let them sit in a paper towel sandwich.) Then prime them using a good quality spray can metal primer. I use Tamiya fine white primer on small scale work like this. In your case, I would assemble sections, then do the vinegar soak and prime. -Bill
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