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  2. Thanks Ondras and Steven. Just had time to dash off some frames. The jig certainly speeds up the process. just thinking about mediaeval building. The foothooks and top timbers could be premade elsewhere. Only the floors need be individually shaped onsite and even this would have been somewhat automated. This helps explain how the shipwrights of the Arsenale could lay down an entire galley in three or four weeks. This shows the gradual narrowing of adjacent floors. Dick
  3. Thanks gents but I’m not rushing, it takes weeks to get little bits done you don’t even notice then BANG, it seems to jump ahead. The who deck has a few hundred pieces to make/paint/add, then ships boat, a plane, a million individual stanchions to be added.
  4. I would suggest a trolley, or get your trailer in and pull her out
  5. Today
  6. She already was looking like a fine vessel, Steven. She's getting finer, and finer looking though. For head room ... it depends on the entrance/exit points of the oars, compared to the relative hight of men during that time, which was something like a smallish Italian I would gether - taking the region in consideration to - and luxury was not an issue, only the captain had that if there was any aboard ...
  7. Hey Carl, thanks. If it ever stops raining and blowing a gale here I will try to get some outdoor pics. Another problem though is she is a big girl to move around. Well over a metre in length atm! Cheers Chris
  8. Smashing, mate. I especially like the blue in the camouflage, makes her come a live, not just another dull grey beast on a picture. I see you whipped out your 3mm drill bit, stanchions and thread ... must be thrilled to bits when that comes up.
  9. that's looking fantastic, a really striking looking vessel indeed for the head height down below, what height of person are you assuming?
  10. Not to shabby vossy. You might get her in some daylight with a somewhat more uniform colour background. That would improve your image considerably ... She looks pritty, so far a job well done. Fortunately we are our own worst critics ...which keeps us on our toes
  11. Thanks Lou, I hope you don't mind to much what I did to her ... Now I need to learn how to finish her when painting by hand, OC, thank you Good to have you at the finish though, Jason, glad you like her in her battered state Ken, much appreciated, I am curious as to how you will fair with the SMS Seydlitz ... That's a lot of praise from our creative source ... next depends I can start on HMCS Huron, or transform that kit to HMCS Athabaskan (I like her camouflage better). However, there are some changes to be made to her furniture, which, after this, shouldn't be to much of a problem, and there is the 3' monster to continue with ... we'll see. First cleaning the deck, I had to much lazy sailors aboard for cleaning
  12. When I opened the box, all there is are more boxes inside. When you open those boxes, then the parts are exposed. I'll try to get some more photos tomorrow after I take care of my wife. She's got some major dental work to get done tomorrow and it will press me into unfamiliar territory doing chores I'm unaccustomed to doing.
  13. Following Practicum, i started adding details on cap rail area... First i cut a notch for the bowsprit with a hobby saw and using files the opening was rounded but not completely... The main tweaking will happen at the time of bowsprit installation. Despite the fact that i do follow practicum, i missed one part. The steam was to short. Good part is it is no just me. Following Chuck's suggestion i will add a piece of wood to lengthen the steam to correct dimensions. This is task for tomorrow... Now looking at the pictures it looks that notch is a bit wider that needed. Something to deal with at the time of actual bowsprit installation. Bit more work to do. As Chuck mentioned, mistakes do happen... Then i worked on hawse holes; marked, drilled and shaped with a file. Gunstocks were made next. Cut a piece of wood, a tin strip of electric tape was simulating iron band but i forgot to drill a hole on the top, for a swivel gun. It will be a bit hard to do it after but... The other gunstocks will be done with a hole before mounting. Also i simulated trunnels by drilling a small hole and fill it up with wood putty. A nice little detail. Before mounting, i dip both gunstocks into stain, leave it for 15 sec and dry it out with paper towel. The notch for gunstock was cut in the cap rail, shape corrected with a file and before mounting gunstocks, i run a layer of flat black color on cap rail area where gunstocks will be mounted. This is to prevent messing gunstocks with black color since i am planing to lay one more layer of black color to cap rail before putting a protective layer of varnish. Tomorrow few more gunstocks and will work on fixing short steam.... Happy modeling.
  14. Isn't that where they branded cows in all the wild west movies? On the butt?
  15. Quick update on progress. More railings on Port side. Pictures don't really do it justice, as I reckon it looks heaps better irl. But then again, I might be biased, a bad cameraman, or both? Anyway, here are some pics. Any criticism, good or bad, greatly appreciated. Cheers Chris
  16. Here's the dromon with masts and spur dry-fitted and deck-beams glued in to form the line of the deck, at intervals of about 4-5 beams apart. When they're all in place, there will be a deck beam for every two frames - so there'll be something like 52 of them, and in full scale they'll be 0.48 metre (approx 18") apart, or (where the oars are) two per oarbench. This ties in with the known intervals of 13th century Sicilian galley deck beams. In the close-up picture you can see the very slight upward curve of the deck beams. As I mentioned above they'll be approx 100mm deep in full scale. I'd have liked to make them deeper, but there are serious issues with headroom for the lower oarsmen vs the overall height of the vessel above the waterline and even more importantly the height of the upper bank of oarports above water level. The higher the oarports the steeper the angle of the oars and the harder it is for the upper oarsmen to row. As it is, the lower oarsmen will have just enough room not to bump their heads as they row. Though for this depth of deck-beam there should be fore-and-aft support beams held up by columns at intervals, I won't be putting them in - just too much complication for something that will never be seen. I've also put in the cross-beams for the rudder structure now, to keep from possible interference later on when it's too late to fix. She's starting to look like a real ship! Steven
  17. She is looking superb but hey slowly slowly does it why rush, if it took a year - 2/3 years no matter, the enjoyement is in the building no the finnishing unless you own a model shop and want to display as many as possible. My intention is to make sure I have a dustproof covered display case to put my ole girl in for when she is finnished. OC.
  18. Bob, You convinced me, trying to simulate a rivet pattern on copper tape would be senseless. But if one could get the correct scale copper would be a nice added detail. As far as the color, all ships were brand new at one time and after time will turn color after it is handled (like a copper penny). The trick would be achieving the proper scale. I am still on the fence to copper or not. This is a photo of the USS Constitution at the start of the last restoration that illustrates your point. Thanks for your insight. RussR
  19. congratz Carl.........she looks fantastic! from the grunge.....to the rigging, she quite a life like model. where to next ?
  20. amazing work Greg.......she's look'in really sweet! 2 months to build her.........with all you've done.........and folks though I was a fast builder some superb work there........she looks great!
  21. popeye the sailor

    U.S.S. Arizona by popeye the sailor - Revell - 1:426 scale

    hello Ken......welcome....glad to have you look'in the main decks {wood areas} are to be a teak color. a lot of the models I've seen leaned more toward a yellowish tan. I will like go a bit darker than that. the wood decks {scale decks, etc} are on the yellowish side as well......not too many chose to darken them at all. I didn't paint her up too much as I recall......painted things here and there and called it good. I consider this a second chance for me.....Don't think I can do no worse it'll be fun.........trust me now I wonder..........how many different brands of Arizona kits were out there when we were kids? not many I'll bet
  22. Thanks @Kevin Kennyand Robert/ @Fright for the comments. Kevin, even before your comment I was reviewing your video on the work you did on the cockpit. I'll likely use that as inspiration and try to emulate at least some of what you did. We'll see how it goes. Before that, I started working on the rudder and ran into the same issue you mentioned, where the rudder did not fit. I should've learned the lesson and done the rudder much earlier. Instead, like you, I had to remove some of the copper and shave down the stern post to get it to fit. I'll likely not do "real" gudgeons and pintles. The ones supplied in the kit would be tough to fit over the copper. I'll just put some fake metal bands on the rudder and stern and then glue the rudder in place.
  23. popeye the sailor

    U.S.S. Arizona by popeye the sailor - Revell - 1:426 scale

    hello bglithero........should be interesting {I hope} your welcome to follow along. I'm glad they will work OC, 'cuz when I ordered the PE, I wasn't thinking about the railings.......all I got was the catapults and the cranes, along with a few other bits. I have a few pictures in the camera still, of what I did yesterday afternoon........after I mowed my jungle. to close off last week, I puttied and sanded the hull bottom, and did some trimming. in the hoop-la, the rudder popped off, but didn't break the gungeons {luck smiled on me}. so much for trapping it in it's place I'll wait till I do the screw shafts, to put it back on {why tempt fate}. I think I need a new tube of putty......every time I go to use it, I have to clear the nozzle {it's old stuff anyway}. then I cleaned most of the flash from the structure parts..........here you can see what I mean about the assembly issue. next, was the cheerful task of drilling out all the port holes. the ones on the recesses gave me issues.......I have an idea of how to resolve it. I still have the other side to do. there.......the rest of the pictures are here. my tinkering the other day was to drill out the other side portholes. once that was done........curiosity took over. I picked a small section, and commenced to chopping off the railings. going along the hull edge, I lightly scored along the railings, doing this a couple of times. when I felt I had gone deep enough, I bent them and broke them off. a couple of times, the knife went off line and onto the hull..........oooooopps! I rubbed the scratch with my finger nail, and it seemed to disappear {I hope!}. we'll see how it looks when it gets paint. you might be able to see what I mean about the recesses....they are a mess I think I'll try to cover them over with a plate of brass and redrill them........with not so many portholes perhaps. round injection mold marks can be seen........I had to cut them off because they interfere with the deck. with that done.............for the reason why I started the log 👉 the stern deck got cemented in place there's a couple small gaps on the starboard side.........but there it is...my big major development. I'd cement in place the fore deck section, but there are a couple of raised doors on the bulkhead, and I want to remove them, installing the PE doors before I do. might as well start right in with the PE so here it is.........where I'm at at the moment. it will likely be a little slow for now.......I have a couple of models to clear up first. it will give me a bit more time to experiment......and if I come up with something......no matter how small.......I will be sure to post it thanks for look'in in and the positive comments.
  24. The two main superstructures have been glued to the deck. There are 4 secondary gun platforms that required 2 day’s work to add stanchions then rigging the 3 bar railings. Throw on some ladders and a few more carley floats and done.
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