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  2. John, Thinking about you during this difficult time. You have my thoughts and prayers.
  3. Steve, My Topsail Schooner "Eagle" 1847 1:64 scale build was scratch built using plank on solid (POS) construction while my Brigantine "Newsboy" 1854 1:64 scale build was POS construction using a machine carved hull. As these hulls were coppered, I recessed the upper hull 3/64" to accommodate hull planking. On both hulls I used 1/32" bulwark planking and 3/64" hull planking. I prefer a wood fiber filler by Carpenters vs softer spackling fillers. Pictures below illustrate "Eagle" and "Newsboy" construction respectively:
  4. Today
  5. Nils, AWESOME, the many details on her are outstanding! She is just beautiful. You have done a great job building her. I know you spent a lot of time on building this ship. Marcus
  6. I would also keep the bulkheads. For the same reason as Roger said : This is an easier way to build an accurate hull because the thin body plan sections (or the bulkheads) are in fact templates embedded in the hull. Used products. Ordinary universal filler for wall and gyproc plaster. Available everywhere (This is a Belgian brand) Ordinary white wood glue. I have used this filler for 25 years as a base on wooden boards for my military model. Never had any problems with it
  7. On Ebay, you can set a Reserve Price, and the item will not sell if it is not met, then you can try additional times.
  8. Thanks for the tips!
  9. John, my thoughts and prayers for you and Diane. Good to hear of some improvements; a positive sign.
  10. Does anyone have a copy of Warship 2009? I'm after the rigging plans for the battleship Ise, but I don't really want to spend $300 on a copy for one set of plans.
  11. Wonderful work Nils. You are indeed a master of the craft.
  12. Many thanks for sharing this Moxis, good looking block stropping job... Nils
  13. I'm not trying to hide it but seem to be hiding it quite well. Try the link after my name.
  14. Maybe this is the answer to my block stropping problems.
  15. This is about making one's own blocks from the materials provided in a typical wood kit where you wrap copper wire around the block and curl one end to make the eye. I was really having a hard time doing this due to the stiffness of the wire and then I remembered about annealing the wire over a flame to soften it. Even so it is taking me between 10 and 15 minutes per block. At this rate it will take me a week to just make enough blocks for a simple two masted schooner. Am I slow and need to discover a quicker way or is my time about average.
  16. lovely compliment, many thanks Frank, Nils
  17. Thank you very much Bob, Nils
  18. Inventive Dan. A bit tricky on the 8th and 9th rung from tthe bottom when the rungs get wet at sea ... however, I couldn't get it done as well as you did!
  19. While I never mind someone using my pictures as references, guides, ideas or a laugh this whole discussion has really made me think more and more about what I post and what kind of "free" access the world has to it. Out of curiosity, I ran a search on my latest build La Couronne on google images and sure enough I found pictures of my build on there. Yes, they linked back to my gallery here but, that picture could be easily downloaded and saved and claimed as anyone's within seconds. The internet is one of our greatest gifts and most evil creations at the same time. I know there is no easy answer to this problem as it is far bigger than just our little niche hobby. Bringing awareness to it is a great start and I like the idea of promoting the legitimate businesses that actually contribute to supporting and growing our hobby. While I hate to suggest things that may cut into profits which I know are tight as it is, perhaps issuing some coupons might help in competing. I don't think anything radical would need to be used but possibly something along the lines of even 5-10% off an order or free shipping? They could possibly even be included with the NRG membership as a bonus every year when signing up or renewing. Possibly even something to give to returning customers. Slip it in with the receipt and the offer is good for the next order. May help keep people buying with a reputable source instead of always looking on Ebay. I would be very surprised if any of us is sitting on a gold mine to the point where money doesn't matter and we do not care what things cost. (If you are doing that give me a call, I just got my latest hospital bill and I could use some help...) So we are always looking for a good deal and with that in mind I cannot fault people for wanting to shop around. Still, I'm young and spend a lot of time looking to the future and one of the things I look forward to is continuing in this hobby for a very long time. To do that I either need to learn how to start manufacturing my own kits and supplies, (not likely) or I need to ensure the people that are spending the time, money and effort into doing so stay around. What starts off almost every build log on here, opening the box and looking at the contents of the kit. What is the next most common thing heard after all the grabbing seats and hoping someone shows up with the popcorn? Instructions are crap, the wood is crap and the fittings are crap. I guess I will be replacing them. Now these kits are made by legit manufactures and in reality, they are not that bad just not as good as they could be but how can they be up to that top quality when people already complain about the high prices for what is offered? So people go to the cheap rip offs and are happy that they saved all that money. Then they open the box and find out that the model is even worse off and the kit so bad the words I need to describe it I shouldn't type here. Now imagine that is all that is available to us because the quality companies are gone. Then there are the never ending threads on what types of ships, materials and supplies we want. Those threads are pages upon pages long with hundreds of great ideas. Who is going to make those? China? Russia? Hmmm.... let me know when you find a newly designed quality kit from them.... I'll be here waiting... No, we need the people behind those sponsors banners on our front page. We need those companies like Sergal and Corel, Amati and the dozen others who still make these models. We need Crown Timberyard, Blue Jacket, Syren and all the others to stay in business or we are going to find ourselves without and in a hurry. My rant is over but please, support these guys. Fight piracy even if it means you can only buy one book instead of two or you have to wait that extra month to get that new ship kit. We will be a better community both in here and in the world if we start to do so.
  20. I've always wondered if those hurdles could have a chance of being passed if the navy was handed a meticulously researched, high quality ANCRE style monograph to work from. I think the running excuse from a technical standpoint is 'oh there isn't enough information' yet the plans for the original headrails exist on the building plans, and the changed layout of the bulwarks etc is known from the 1815 plan of the president, the hull model, and ware's sailplan ( in that regard the Connie is basically in 1812 configuration already, save some later slight changes to sheer that would be difficult to correct without a major major overhaul)...but its not all on one definitive plan. The closest (properly researched) attempt I know of was by Thomas Gillmer, who advised the '97 restoration and putting the diagonal riders back in. IIRC he created an 'as built' and '1812' close-up plan of the head, from the original draughts. Annoyingly, he seems not to have included enough QD & FC ports for the 1812 armament on his full 1812 draught nor sized them any larger for the switch to carronades, but otherwise I've found very few inconsistencies. Its my go-to source on the Connie, followed by Chapelle. Then there is the matter of the transom, which he didn't even touch-and is a much bigger can of worms. That being said, we should be grateful for what we have-the cutting down of the planked in hammock nettings has done wonders for her looks (and likely structural health, with all that weight off), and her lines are still as graceful as ever!
  21. Hmm.. so your Yorkie just lets you know they're there? Ours grabs it and runs. I've found more parts in her beds (she has 3 scattered about the house) than I've ever found on the floor.
  22. Hello Nils I came late to this forum and missed the build of your magnificent model. This is a truly wonderful example of craftsmanship! I can't imagine having the determination and imagination to make so many many items required for such a build. Very impressed Nils ... congratulations. Frank
  23. Thanks to all who have offered prayers and well wishes for my Admiral Diane. There is improvement today and I hope and pray that it continues. You guys are great and if I missed acknowledging anyone, please forgive me. Getting old sucks as many of us know, however, it is better than the alternative, not to make light of it. I'll try to post updates when I can. Thanks my friends, John
  24. Thank you David and Cliff. Here's a Jig I made up to bend very small "Step Irons". I have several hundred of these to make for my current model and the next, and the jig makes short(er) work 0f them. The wire used is 0.2mm, and the irons are 1.6mm long. Other sizes can be made with a slight modification to the jig. Danny
  25. Yesterday
  26. I have scratch built solid hull models with lifts cut from either waterlines or buttocks. Both can produce good results. Several years ago I built a hull by setting up thin stations cut from body plan sections with the spaces between filled with soft wood blocks. This is an easier way to build an accurate hull because the thin body plan sections are in fact templates embedded in the hull. The problem with this method is that after painting the hull I found several thin cracks running along the joints between the thin section pieces and the filler blocks. If you are planning to plank the hull anyway you won't have this problem. Since you already have the kit I would set up the bulkheads and fill between with blocks. Since the bulkheads are supposedly accurate, shaping the hull should be easy. If you go to the scratch build forum, Ed Tosti has a series of posts about building a 1:96 scale POB model of Young America. This is the method that he used. Roger
  27. Thanks for the tip on the Copyright sign, Dee_Dee. My son and I were discussing this issue tonight over dinner - he's an artist. He said he's found the theft of art is rampant on the Internet. He's had a couple of photos of his paintings stolen also and posted as someone else' art work. As he pointed out to me, just as easily as we can add a watermark, copyright with signature, etc to a photo, they can just as easily remove it with PhotoShop or Picasa or any other tool. Should we give up ? NO ! Just keep calling them out when you find them.
  28. I glue 320 grit sand paper to the tips of my tweezers and trim with an x-acto blade when dry. Works good holding small parts. Also my Yorkie-poo has a dogie bed under my table and keeps a sharp ear out for falling pieces. I guess Yorkie-poos are really miniature retrievers of small parts.
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