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  3. geoff

    Hello Everyone.

    Welcome to MSW Rich, All the best, Geoff
  4. Congratulation for finishing this beautiful model. It was a long journey, also for the readers of your log. But it makes a lot of fun to follow your progress. Thanks for sharing.
  5. I am currently building the Rattlesnake by MSW. The instructions recommends to use a 3/32" thick batten to check for fairness. Obviously this thickness is harder to bend than 1/16" thick. The standard plank thickness of the lower hull for this model is 1/16". Is there a reason to use a thick batten to check for fairness?
  6. I hear ya. Best of luck on the drive. I look forward to seeing her up close.
  7. CharlieZardoz

    Brig USS Enterprise 1799 info gathering

    Explain please?
  8. The upper deck is planked. Cutting the planks around the pumps was interesting. I wasn’t sure what supports the planks over the openings on either side of the mast step. I put some supports in even though I didn’t see them on any of the plans. The planks are holly. I will put some clear water-based polyurethane over them, which I used on the lower deck and didn’t change the whiteness of the wood significantly. The treenails were my first experiment with bamboo. Not sure what took me so long to try it. I have been using the same type wood as the plank to minimize the contrast between the plank and treenail so it wouldn’t look too busy. The bamboo is MUCH easier to draw through the drawplate. It seems to have a reasonable contrast with the background. I drew the bamboo down to the .018 hole (second smallest on the Byrnes drawplate) and used a .020 drill. The other experiment was marking the locations on the model, then taking the planks off and drilling, treenailing, and sanding the planks prior to installing them on the model. I was pretty happy with it – it was a lot easier than trying to navigate the drill near the bulwarks or bitt pins. I have a few more rows of planks on the bulwarks and outer hull. I need to see how bamboo treenails will look on these planks. It they look funny because they don’t match the pear, cherry, and boxwood treenails that I have already used, I will finish with the same. If it isn’t too noticeable, I will finish with bamboo. The next model will be treenailed with bamboo- just so much easier to work with.
  9. I am currently building the MS Benjamin W. Latham fishing schooner. I am at the point of installing the windlass at the bow. I noticed that when set up the ship for underway/working status if I leave the brake handles in the operating status that they would surely be head knockers. If I had been a deck hand on that ship, the second time the brake handle knocked me it would have been in the deep blue. I have been using Chapell's "American Fishing Schooner" book and on line research but have not found out how the hand breaks would have been stowed. Would they have been lashed to the windlass knees, barrel, or bulwarks? Are there any ideas before I throw the hand brakes into the deep blue?
  10. Question for anyone passing through: is there a preferred method of thinning down the deadwood area of the keel (4mm thick down to 2mm in this case)? The instructions are pretty vague (“reduce thickness”) and the DVD doesn’t really cover it. Sanding seemed to take forever. I planed/carved a bit on one side with a hobby knife, but that was clunky. A small wood chisel or Dremel tool would have required a 10-step walk out to the workshop (and let’s be reasonable!) plus I didn’t want to do anything too aggressive and take off more material than I intended. I’m hoping the first layer of limewood planking will be easier to finesse to get the final thickness right.
  11. tlevine

    signs of the season

    Dave, I understand completely. It was annoying driving through flurries not too far south of you (Rockford IL) on my way to work earlier this week.
  12. E.J, Thanks - much appreciated - Really enjoying following your current log ....... Denis: Yes indeed, doing those two bits reminded me of how glad I am that I did not think of this during the Vasa. That would have really been a bit too much. Now working on how to secure these first four carriages. Won't post again until they are properly lashed and buttoned up. In the meantime I did set up the framing timber bends for the mid deck - it will be a relief to be done with these piddly details. Cheers,
  13. tlevine

    What have you received today?

    There are only a few books that have truly impacted my life. Longridge's Victory is one of them. I remember checking it out of the library on a lark a few (OK almost 40) years ago and have never looked back. Now all I have to do is finish rigging my Vicky.
  14. There is nothing below the waterline when it comes to details. There is also no strakes along the bow which are on the real thing. So some marskung and some very thin tape soles that quickly. I need to get some more rattle can spray to finish coverage on the Lower hull, then I can scribe in some panels. I also added some riveted panels to the rudders and above the cannons that run along the edge of the hull.
  15. Excellent! I did see it in person a couple of years ago. Hopefully I'll get to see the finished model in the future (but not in Las Vegas unfortunately). All the best, Richard.
  16. Wow, she is looking beautiful Rob. You know, you were not wrong in saying that the colors on the Corel box are good. After reading your post and seeing your build here in the images you uploaded I am inclined to fully agree with you. It is going to be a good while before I can even consider issues of wether to paint or not, but this has certainly given me something to think about. It's a fantastic build sir. Congrats, she looks great.
  17. Michael, There is a piece (#13) that sits in between numbers 12 and 14 so the gap would not be that large. That being said, I will recheck the fit for #17 and line it up with the back end of the keel. Once I have this sorted I would like to think that this gap issue won't be too much of an issue. I shall address it tomorrow afternoon, I have a guy coming for some wood tomorrow so I will be felling trees tomorrow morning.
  18. That'll work fine I think once its installed.
  19. the learner

    Completed Above Starboard Viewa.jpg

    Fantastic job Toni!
  20. Best $37 I’ve spent in awhile. So much easier for those small airbrush jobs than siphon fead.
  21. Working on the masts - the dowels were tapered & stained with walnut stain. Square sections were filed where the tops fit - not too difficult as the dowels are a wood called koto,which is fairly soft. The tops are laser cut ,so all I needed to do was add the border strip & battens. The border strip was supposed to be 1x4mm sapelli,but I couldn`t bend them to fit the curve of the tops without snapping - even after soaking & using my plank bender- so I used a piece of 1x4 walnut. The cheeks for the lower top are provided as laser cut parts,but none were provided for the topmast crosstrees so I made some from scrap wood. The topmast crosstrees are made of metal,which is ok because they are painted black along with the tops of the mast sections. Some bolsters were also added to the crosstrees for the shrouds to sit on - not shown on the plans,but they must surely would have had them. Railings will go across the back edge of the tops,but will not be installed until later - too easy to knock them loose. Rope wooldings were added & "iron"bands were made from black cartridge paper. There are also 2 cleats on the foremast near the deck. Not sure what they are for,as I could not find them in the rigging diagrams. The lower mast caps are a little different - they are metal with a groove molded on the outside edge & a laser cut piece of wood is glued to the side,making a groove for a rigging rope. Once it is all painted black it doesn`t look too bad. That completes the foremast - 2 more to go. Mark
  22. Great company and great service. I just received this today. I had ordered the book (and received it) back when it was first available.
  23. Yesterday

    Funnel Cloud Forms Over My House!

    It's driven by the wind so it mainly follows the storm, but the bottom of the funnel will sometimes go back and forth within a mile or so of the general path of the storm.
  25. It looks awesome in the photos can't wait to see it in person!
  26. johnp76

    Completed Port Fore Viewa.jpg

    Beautiful! I like the paintwork.
  27. Jaager

    What Wood Is Best For What

    Bummer, You can try it, On the Wood Database - the JPEG reminds me a bit of Oak in that the grain is course and it is open pore. Be mindful of scale - if the grain and pores dominate, you may not wish to use it - but it is about your taste. If you do not paint with natural wood and actually seal and use paint and do not mind it tending to dull steel cutting edges try it. The wood is apparently expensive for most of us, You do not state a preferred scale, at mine (1:60) a 10 inch piece is 50 feet long in scale. This is longer than most any piece of a ship. I will use 6 inch pieces , it is just fiddly milling short stock. If you like it, and have any pack rat tendencies, stock as much as you can store. Situations change and it may not be there for free in the future.
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