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thibaultron

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About thibaultron

  • Rank
    thibaultron
  • Birthday 04/11/1955

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Warrenville, SC
  • Interests
    Ship, plane, and train modeling, history, science.

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  1. I wish I remembered all those years of French I took, 45 years ago!
  2. thibaultron

    odd lateen yard rigging

    I have the Red Bay books, and can also recommend them!
  3. Got my Sinagot book today! While I can't read French, it does have many diagrams and boat sketches that show the rigging. I may scan the book and run it through OCR and French to English translation programs.
  4. thibaultron

    What have you received today?

    Received this book today I bought this to use as a reference for my Heller Sinagot build. The rigging instructions for the kit leave a lot to be desired. I hoped this book would help. It does, it has many diagrams with the rigging shown. Wish it was in English, but the diagrams help. I may scan it in and run it though OCR and translation programs.
  5. thibaultron

    The "What have you done today?" thread.

    Finished my sail plans for the Maryland Terrapin Smack.
  6. thibaultron

    The "What have you done today?" thread.

    Yes I've done the Ebay software route before, and will again this time. The big problem I have found with that, is buying an actual real program, not a hacked version. But careful reading will spot the fakes most times. I have a faceplate in the shop with two additional USB ports, that I have to go get. That will restore most of what I want. I also need to find the sound card. The motherboard is a server type with no sound. The old computer also had an HDMI port that I could run my 39" regular TV from.
  7. Sinagot Fishing Boat – Heller – 1/60 – Plastic - Small PART 7 Today I shot the next coat of primer onto the hull and several other pieces. First Note: Applying masking tape with gloves on is a pain in the a..! It was bad enough when I was using the old style enamel paints, now that you have to wash the model and then handle it with gloves on until painting is finished is not fun. With the acrylic paint, you have to have an oil free surface for proper paint finish, that includes skin oils! Second Note: Trying to airbrush long thin plastic pieces with an airbrush causes interesting oscillations at the unsupported end of the part! Next time I’ll brush paint these parts! This was aggravated by the need to use about 30PSI to the airbrush. More on that later. Third Note: Using a double acting airbrush for anything other than small parts is frustrating, and takes forever. Fourth Note: When using said airbrush with Stynylrez, and I guess most acrylics, for an extended period, clean out the airbrush regularly, even if you don’t change colors! I was painting for about an hour, and almost needed a chisel, or sand blaster to clean the paint out. It had dried inside the passageways and the inside surface of the cup. Fifth Note: Also completely disassemble the brush and check the needle, etc. when cleaning after using the Stynylrez! When I used the double acting brush when I was practicing, I cleaned it out and ran cleaner and water through it. When I went to use it this time, I had filled the cup, and then tried to use the trigger, it was stuck solid!! I disassembled the brush and found a crust of the Stynylrez all over the needle! After this session I broke it down all the way and cleaned it. When I was using the Vallejo primers and paint on another model, the brush cleanup well without the disassembly. I chose the double acting brush for this job as there were a number of nooks and crannies under the seats. I felt that the external mix brush delivers too much paint and would flood the interior while I was trying to get under the seats (Yes, I know that there is a perfectly Nautical term for them, but everyone knows what a seat is), especially under the one at the stern. In the end I will still have to go back and brush some under both seats. I shot it at 30PSI, the upper limit in the Stynylrez directions, using a 0.50 needle, also as per directions.. As noted earlier, this high pressure caused a couple of the smaller spars the oscillate when I was attempting to paint the far end. Also trying the use an airbrush to paint long thin round “things” is difficult. From now on I’ll brush paint both the primer and topcoats. I plan to brush paint the interior for the color coat, but wanted a smooth primer coat to start from. In the pictures below are the taped hull and the rudder and spars held in clothespins. When I primed the rudder with the Red-Brown primer it was held by the tiller end, so I had to hold it by the bottom today and prime that end. I used Tamiya masking tape and some fairly heavy white paper for the masking. I was going to use regular masking tape for the Tamiya to paper joint, but decided that it was both too wide and I was afraid too sticky, and might pull off some of the primer. I masked the hull below the railing, as the hull will later be painted black. I chose to do the rail first, as the Stynylrez sets much faster than the Vallejo color coats, so I can mask it several days sooner than if I had to mask the black color coat. The next two pictures are close-ups of the masking on the hull. As I said earlier it took a long time with the double acting brush, but I got the job done. For priming the other ends of the spars, though, I’ll use a paint brush. I also need to go back through the box, there is one of the yards missing, from the washed parts! I had other things to do today, though, so I didn’t get to look today. Sixth Note: I will buy some of the poster board sheets, and cut some to cover the bottom of the inside of the booth, even with the little painting I’ve been doing, it is starting to become “Not White”. This is the bottle of primer, I put the black dot on the label (lower right) to indicate that it is open and that I’ve put a stainless steel BB in it to help mix the paint, before use. I bought two sizes of specially coated balls, 6mm and 8mm (I believe), for this purpose. I read that regular SS comes in many types, and most of them will rust when constantly immersed in water based paints. I’ll look up the manufacturer and post the name later. I use the 6mm for the regular Vallejo size color coat bottles (17ml), and the 8mm for the larger primer ones (2oz in this case). I tried glass beads, but even large ones are too light. From my experience today I think I will thin the Stynylrez a little, next time, and add a couple of drops of retarder to help with the fast drying inside the airbrush. I also need to dip the needle in a lubricant, to help keep the paint from adhering to it. I have a bottle of the Badger brand, but forgot about it today. It is “Regdab” (Yes, that’s Badger spelled backwards, who can tell with Marketing Types!). No picture of it, it is buried under junk, due to the (eternal) remodeling of the shop. The next two pictures are of the result of my efforts, before I removed the masking. Note the “Rube Goldberg” clothespin setup to support the hull until it dried. The gray piece behind the model is my Test Piece. I use it to see if the airbrush is working, paint consistency, etc. You’d almost think I knew what I was doing, nope, just figuring it out as I go. It does not show in the picture, but the coat on the spars leaves much to be desired. And pictures after the masking was removed. The pictures have different contrast levels as some are taken with flash and the others without. I choose the pictures that show the best detail, rather than worrying about how they look compared to each other. As can be seen by the two side shots, I need more practice with the masking, but it is OK. The model also has the standard out of scale raised grain patterns, typical of plastic models, working against me here. When I paint the black for the hull, I’ll use an old trick to help with the bleeding. After masking hit the edge with a thin spray of the color you are masking off, in this case white as I’ll be protecting the railing, or with a clear coat. This way any paint that bleeds through matches the protected color and seals those spots for when the new color is applied. As also can be seen in the third picture the primer coat is a little spotty, due to trying to cover a relatively large area with a small spot size of paint. It will do for the primer coat though. Again I’ll brush paint the light blue interior color coat. For the railing I went over the area many times to build up the opacity. If I had to do a larger area, than the railing, the double acting brush would not be a good choice, or I'd apply a white color coat. The last picture is the primer coat on the stand. Again not an opaque coverage, but the color coat will fix that. Another problem with using the airbrush on this small part was that it was being blown all over the booth whenever my grip slipped.
  8. thibaultron

    The "What have you done today?" thread.

    Been a busy few days. A few months ago, my main (House) computer ate another power supply. The latest of several. So I stole the PS from my shop computer. That lasted until a couple months ago, then that supply died. So I down graded to a laptop, until I could buy another supply. That one died after a few seconds! The Admiral finally convinced me the motherboard was DOA, and to stop throwing good PS at it. A major problem with the laptop, is that I had not backed up my main computer in over a month, and was therefore out that amount of CAD time on my hobby projects. Fast forward to this week. I finally saved up enough for another computer "Rolling Chassis" (complete computer sans hard drive), and bought a new supply for the shop computer. The computer arrived, and it was DOA! no video on bootup, and it never finish boot to the BIOS screen (assumming I could have seen it get there) as the DVD drive would not stay open (as it should if the BIOS screen had come up). Tried everything I could think of (and I have a lot of computer experience). When the computer arrived the cables to the USB, etc. for the front panel were disconnected, so when I shipped it back I left them that way. Now the seller is insinuating that I am trying to pull a fast one, and either broke it, or subsituted bad parts. Any way I installed the PS in the shop computer, and slowly put my main data drives in it, using its original Win 7 OS. Got that working and tried the Win 10 512GB SSD that was the system drive for the old home computer. No Go! It got scrambled when the computer went DOA. I was able to recover many of the data files off it, at least. So I reloaded Win 10 yesterday, and now I'm reloading the software. Bad part is, I have to rebuy some of the licenses, as some of them were "Load To One Computer Only", and I did not record the keys. Also some of the programs I don't recall the names of (third party YouTube download, etc.) so I have to go find, or refind, replacement software. From now on I'm going to make regular image backups of the system drive as well as more frequent data backups. The shop computer is a little slower than the old one, and has much less capable video, and fewer USB ports, but it will do for now.
  9. Don't watch one of my favorite 50s horror flicks "The Giant Tarantula"
  10. It doesn't look like much now, but here is the rough 3D CAD "Clothes Horse" I drew to start my rigging plan. I'm going to draw in the lines as I find them using the photos I found. The red is a very rough representation of the hull, the green the spars, and blue masts. The orange points are the bitts on the hull, and the black the traveler.
  11. No progress on the model itself, but I did find several pictures of restored Sinagots online. The most useful search was for "Jolie Vent" a restored boat originally built in 1958. Several pictures that will help me figure out the rigging. I also ordered " Sinagots : Histoire d'une communauté maritime en Bretagne " a book on the Sinagots. Its in French, so hopefully it will have lots of pictures! I may have to scan it in and use google to translate it! I did find out that the boats were used in protected waters, and had no dedicated stays or shrouds. The sails are set so that the foresail is always raised on the Port side, and the main on the Starboard. When running into the wind, one of the sails billows against its mast. The boats generally had black hulls and were differentiated by the color of the railing. There is a wooden kit in 1/20th scale, but I can only find it from one supplier, and will stick with the Heller one. There is a nice video of "Jolie Vent" at
  12. thibaultron

    The "What have you done today?" thread.

    Got the washer going! It does not have a position sensor. Apparently it has been laying on the drum for a while, and one of the wires which was going to another section wore through on an internal edge. I soldered the wire back together and it runs fine. I replaced the two broken plastic studs with a couple #10 machine screws, with nylon lock nuts. I left them loose enough that I can slide the holder into place. I have to remove the computer board and snap it back into place after the holder is on.
  13. The polyester also uses the heat of the reaction to set, and in thin sections may not harden well. One one of my Combat Warship models, I had to put the hull in the hatch of my car and park it at work so that the sun shone in all day. It took several days to finally set fully. The car stunk to high heaven for a week, but my hull was ready.

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