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thibaultron

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  1. As far as CAD goes, you do not need a high core count CPU! All, I repeat all, CAD programs are single thread programs! I fell into that mistake when I built my new computer, last year. I have a 12 core CPU and none of my CAD programs were using more than 4 cores! When I investigated, all the 2D and 3D CAD program vendors state, if you look hard enough, that any CAD program has to be single threaded, as, basically, you start from one line,than follow it to the next line etc. CPU speed, on the other hand does matter, as well as how the CPU handles code. I went from a decade old 4 core setup, with a clock speed of about 4GHz, to the latest 12 core AMD 7900X with about 5GHz. In single thread the old one got a score of 450, the 7900X 2400. So it is about 4 times faster. The "Scores" are relative to that particular Benckmark program, the ratios do, however, indicate the relative performance. In multi core tests the old one got about 2K and the 7900X 27K. I have detuned my 7900X to run at a slightly lower total wattage, to lower CPU temperatures, and it runs about 3 to 5% slower, but now stays in the low to high 70C range of temperature, under full load, rather than the 90 to 95C limits the manufacture allows it to run at, for maximum performance. Intel runs in similar temperature ranges. I could have saved some money and gotten the 7600 or 7700 CPUs, as the CPU intensive work I do is mostly CAD and, not video or picture editing. I don't know if Blender falls under the single thread limit. Both the old and new computers use a maximum use 4 cores with my 3D CAD and Sketchup programs. Yes the program is single thread, but I guess some of the tasks can run in parallel. For Graphics and most other processor intensive programs the more cores the better. Also more cores allow you to have multiple CAD programs running without one bogging down the others. For Instance to copy an item from one Sketchup file to another, you need to have two or more Sketchup programs running, with each having one of the items. You copy an item in the first program, then switch to the other program, and paste the that item into the second. You can also have two SU programs running, and have one doing something complex, that will take a long time, and work on a second project, in another SU program while you wait for the other to finish, without slowing everything to a crawl. The CPU intensive operations in my SU work are generally grouping and ungrouping the lines in an object, and importing some non SketchUp file formats. I have an older free version (2017) of SketchUp, so I don't have the other programs that come with the full version. With my old computer, some of the operations might take overnight, on the new computer, a couple hours. Most now finish in a few minutes. With the larger number of cores you can also open other tasks, say a different CAD or Graphics program, and work on those while the SU program calculates. Graphics programs can use multiple cores, so the speed gains are greater. I don't do gaming or video editing, so don't need as high an end a GPU either. I bought the AMD 7600 GPU, and it barely sweats with my workload. If you get a laptop with a replaceable Nvme SSD, you will also see greater speed gains than one with a regular hard drive style SSD drive. That also allows you to replace a failing drive, or expand your capacity. I would highly advise against a MAC! The SSD sticks in them are soldered in, and of a proprietary form factor. Also the most common MAC laptop failure is for the chip that converts the power supply voltage to the different ones needed internally to die. When it does a vast majority of the time, it sends 13 volts to the SSD, frying it, causing the irreversible loss of all your data! No I'm not making it up, I did a lot of research. Apple is increasingly making it impossible for outside vendors to repair them. The latest trick was to start using a "Smart" switch to detect if the laptop is open. If it fails you can buy a new switch to replace it, but not the program needed to program the smart part of the switch! Only an Apple owned repair facility has access to the program. Without that program the computer will not recognize the replacement part. Whichever computer you buy, buy an external drive and frequently back up your files! Even if you have multiple internal drives, and back up the data to another internal drive, a major computer failure, say the power supply, can destroy all the internal drives! Also the minimum RAM I would recommend in a Windows PC is 16GB, with 32 or 64 if you are doing anything other than browsing or word spreadsheet work. As before, if picture or video editing the more memory the better. I understand that professional video editors regularly run 128GB of RAM. As an example, here is a screen shot of the set of Bogard cannons I am CADing in Sketchup, with this program and the browser I'm writing this response on, I'm using 11GB of memory. Opening a slightly older version of the same file, it goes to 14.6GB. So 32GB would be the minimum I need. I have 64GB, but the additional 32GB of memory came with the bundle deal I got when the CPU, motherboard, and memory bundle I got when buying the components from MicroCenter. In the graphic above the cannons farther from the center line are the latest version of that particular size. I build them in stages (make the body, add cypher, add trunnions, etc.), saving each stage as I go.
  2. Part_021 This is a picture of the diorama with the LEDs on and an overhead light shining through the top window. The final steps to finish the model are painting the raw edges of the case. This picture shows some of the edges that need to be painted. I need two colors for this. The first is my blend for the masonry areas at the front. I decided to paint the outside edges the masonry color in the area the masonry was present. The other areas that needed painting were all the spots the “white” panels met. On the front plate I used pure white paint, but after looking at the finished model, I noticed that the panel color was an off-white color. I had three different “white” shades in my Vallejo collection, So I painted swatches of each on a sprue area the parts had come from. The results are shown in the picture below. The three areas I painted are marked by the red circles. At the top, labeled “I”, is “Ivory”. In the middle marked with what was supposed to be a “W”, is the standard white. At the bottom, marked ”OW”, is Vallejo's “Off White”. The Off White matched almost exactly. PS, yes, I failed in writing clearly in small areas with a sharpie. Sue me! LOL! The following few pictures show the finished paint job. I only saw the bad spot in the above picture, while writing this section. I plan to leave it as is. The area is not visible from the front at normal viewing angles, and I don’t want to mix a whole batch of paint for this one spot Another shot of the fully painted, and finished model from the front. The rest of these pictures are more shots of the finish diorama. I will shortly be starting another thread on a ship themed Book Nook diorama, called “Sailing Memory”. It shows a room with various nautical “stuff” on the table and walls, several books that need to be made, and a large backlit fancy window with an ocean scene behind it. The kit is simpler than the previous two, but has some interesting new building challenges. So, stay tuned, if it sounds interesting.
  3. Part_020 The spine was glued and clamped on next. I dry fit the top to make sure that the case was square. There is still a distinct lack of window for the top, but there are a few details that need to be finished first. The first thing that needs to be worked on, is the joint between the two edges of the book store roof, where they meet at the front right corner. The two pieces were not level with each other. I applied a thick bead of glue, and held the pieces until the glue had set sufficiently. After the glue fully dried, I applied another bead to the underside. Because this area is on the outside of the case, I wanted to protect it from damage, if any impacts occurred. Though the bead does look like it is too large, when dried it shrinks considerably, and is transparent. This is also a small area. The stairway extension at the lowered left corner, are the next parts to install. A picture of the instructions for this is shown below. This shows the assembled wall and railing. This picture is of the corner bracket/lowest step, installed. I then glued the wall to the brace. After the glue dried, I added a bead of glue to the inside of the joints. I had still not found the acetate glazing piece for the top window. I was just going to leave the top dry fit, and leave it like that, until some point in the future, when I found the piece. I spotted a perfect piece of acetate, lying around my shop though! Back in the big bad COVID days, they made a lot of disposable face shields, unfortunately non were available in my area. However, afterwards, one of my pharmacies had a few spare ones they gave me, for use in my shop. Well, there was one open and sitting in a corner! After checking it was the right thickness for the holding slots in the case. So, I used it to fabricate a new window. Being a disposable shield, it was packaged flat, with a foam forehead cushion glued along the top, and an elastic band to hold it to your head. After the elastic and foam cushion were cut away, the sheet laid flat. The instructions showed an overhead view of the placement of the window, so I had a guide as to the correct shape. I traced the opening onto a sheet of paper. Then after measuring the various tab locations, etc. I drew a new pattern using my CAD program. Below is a picture of the finished pattern. The innermost lines are the opening outline. The two ears lock into slots in the side plates, and the tab at the bottom fits in a slot in the front piece that sits just below the edge of the front plate. This slot is hidden from the front by the roof overhang. The side ears were left overlong so I had handles to maneuver the window, without leaving fingerprints. I taped the pattern to the face shield, and cut it out. Though hard to see, naturally as it is clear, this is a picture of the finished part. After a little trimming in the area of the ears, it fit into place, one problem of measuring a metric model with an imperial ruler. Again, still hard to see. I put glue along several areas of the top of the side, back, and front plates, and using the ears to hold the window in place installed the top. I also put a few small drops of glue at the window to top joints. I don’t want it to shift in the future. After the glue dried overnight, I trimmed the exposed parts of the ears off, with a new blade. The construction on the diorama is finished, but there are still some painting details that need to be done. These and pictures of the finished model will be shown in the final part.
  4. Considering that you can see the background through the ship and sails, Photoshop!
  5. Part_019 This picture shows the upper LED wires in the slot, after the Canopy Glue dried. I installed batteries and tested the LEDs, before continuing. I still can’t find the acetate glazing sheet, so I fabricated a new window for the bookstore window, using plastic from a tool package. I wish I had thought of the plastic I used later for the window in the top cover, but I had already glued in and trapped this window. My fear is that the cheap plastic used in the tool cover will yellow over time. Oh well, time will tell. First, I glued the acetate to the back of the front cover, like in a real building. This looked good, but caused problems later, as will be detailed below. I used scrap wood to wedge it in place until the glue dried. While waiting on the window glue, I installed the rear diorama mirror. After removing the protective film from the “glass” side of the mirror, I slid it into place, and glued it. Here you can barely see the effect of the mirror. If you look behind the railroad cross arms, you can see the reflection, making it look like there is another one on the other side of the tram. It also looks like there are more buildings going down the street. There is also a reflection that looks like there is another tram behind the first one. This would be weird, but the second one is mostly hidden by the tree branch, and the second tram would be hidden if the diorama was above eye level, anyway. This is a picture of the mirror, from the side. The next day, I took this photo of the first installation of the window. These are pictures of the right-hand cover. I don’t know if I showed a picture of the corner brackets, they are shown for this wall in the second picture. I damaged the lower tab on the left cover when I installed it. I used three rounds of building up layers of Canopy Glue, to fill it in. When I went to install the right cover, I found that the bookstore window glassing interfered with the joint. I carefully pried it away from the wall, using a steel ruler. I first tried trimming it narrower, and reinstalling it. There was no room on the right side of the window opening left to glue that edge down. The inside surface of the right cover fits flush with the inner edge of the window opening! I retrimmed it to fit over the inner book wall, which does have a lip on the right, as per the instructions and glued it to that wall. Once again, scrap wood was used to wedge it in place. I cleaned the canopy glue off the glazing using isopropyl alcohol, before gluing it in the second time. As I did on the left cover, I glued the front edge of the right cover to the right side of the front cover first, and clamped it. Notice that the cover is angled, slightly, away from the rest of the assembly, to clear the other mounting tabs. Once that had dried, I dry fitted (not glued) the rear/book spine cover in place, and clamped the back edge of the right cover to it. I then made sure all the connecting tabs between the base and right cover were inserted, and ran a bead of glue along that joint.
  6. Part_018 The next operation is to install the left-hand side/book cover. When I test fit the wall, I found the gray wood trim strips interfered with the “stone” steps of the retaining wall mounted on the base. If you build this kit, temporarily install the wall and base with the retaining wall/steps attached, and then glue in these strips, so that they will not interfere later. After that continue with installing the other pieces, as per the instructions. There is room to move these and the brown wall trim up a little. I used the ruler to guide the hobby knife when I trimmed the bottoms off the strips. This picture shows the trimmed parts. I mixed another batch of the gray color paint, and painted the exposed edges. Next, I glued the front cover onto the right-hand inner wall, and the base, camping the parts to give a good fit. I then, fit the left wall, and also glued it to the front cover only, at this time. Once again clamps were used until the glue dried. After the glue dried, I connected the other tabs into the associated slots, and clamped the side until the glue dried. Here are pictures of the installed side. The wiring for the LEDs has to be connected, before the right-hand cover can be installed. First the wires for the LED in the top of the diorama are fed down through holes in the horizontal base of the LED support assembly. I decided to glue the wires into the slot, to prevent them from getting caught between the support and the top cover, when installing it. I glued them in place, then clamped them down, using scrap pieces of wood. I also used clamps as weights to keep the wires taut during the gluing and to help hold that end of the wires down in the slot. I installed the screw that secured the top corner bracket, between the left upper corner and front covers, while I was waiting for the glue to dry. The next step was to glue in another wire guide staple, and run the wires down through it. The instructions say to twist the wires together, then use the supplied tape sections to insulate the exposed ends. I soldered the wire ends, to make a good lasting connection, before adding the tape. This shows the taped ends. To make sure that the ends never touch, and keep the wires from interfering with the right-hand cover installation, I glued the ends to the inside of the inner wall. I added weights to hold them in place, and let it dry overnight. Here is a photo the next day.
  7. Not all 3D resins are brittle. If you need a more durable resin for a project, here is a link to a model railroad Podcast, where one of the members is 3D resin printing an entire HO scale diesel locomotive, and discusses the durable resins he uses. He crushes and earlier print with a standard resin with his fingers. He then shows the more flexible body he printed with the better resin. The discussion starts at about minute 25. He used: Siraya Tech Fast Resin for body, which is a bit flexible, and their Blue Resin for the gearboxes for the power trucks. The Blue is strong, but stiffer, as is needed for a gearbox you want not to flex.
  8. Ive drawn several types and sizes of cannon, and posted the STL files on this thread, if you are interested.
  9. The only drawing I have for the carriages is this one. Armstrong Frederick Pattern 1760.DXF I've been concentrating on the cannons.
  10. I'm about 3/4s of the way through the Borgad cannons. Here is a graphic of one of the 12 Pounders. Here is a closeup of the King George 1st cypher.
  11. Sakura Densya “Cherry Blosom Train” Part_017 Before the front masonry piece is installed, the LED power switch circuit board has to be screwed on. Here is the part installed. I had to use one of my regular sized clamps to hold the streambed edge of the part flush with the stream, until the glue dried. The front to back length was too long for my modeling clamps. This shows the progress so far. As I have had ant problems in the shop, I glued the plastic water piece down along the front and back, to make sure they don’t get under there if they show up in the future. I used the clothespins to spread the weight of the glue bottle, to hold the edge down while the glue dried. The weight of the clothespin on the far right was enough to hold down that section. It turns out I was wrong in an earlier post; the model does have a second LED. It goes at the top of the model, in a dedicated holder. Construction starts with a base that spans between the left wall and the inner right-hand wall. The base has two wood staples that align the three center standoffs that the LED lamp globe attaches to. This shows the base with one of the staples installed. The photo shows the base and three standoffs glued together. The top standoff is shown being installed with the colored side facing toward the base, but I decided to leave the colored face exposed. The part is symmetrical, side to side, so the parts still line up. Next two more staples are installed to hold the wires that go to the LED. The LED globe is designed as a press fit, but I added glue between the globe and standoff, on the inside, to make sure it stays in place. To hide the LED support, there is a faceplate installed I had to clamp it in place while the glue set. I used the clothespin clamp for the section that had the slit for the wires. Hard clamping this across the slit risks breaking one of the arms off. I broke an Atlas lathe belt tensioner assembly a couple of decades ago, making that type of mistake. Luckily, I was dealing with a used machine tool dealer, back then, that sold me a whole newer, better designed, belt tensioner assembly for a reasonable price. After the pieces set, I panted the colored areas and the staples white, to hide all the raw edges, just in case any of it is visible in the finished model. There are two support pieces for the LED assembly that need to be glued to the right-hand inner wall. I had glued and clamped these in place, then found much further back in the instructions, that there was a trim piece that locked into this support! The glue had set already, and the clamps had distorted the support slightly up at the back. I had to break the glue joint and then install the trim piece, then reglue everything. In my defense that trim piece was rather hidden in the instructions, still I should have checked. The piece is the lattice work part on the right of the pictures. I painted the raw edges of the upper front face piece white to match the color of the part. It took three coats to fully hide the edges, on this majorly visible area.
  12. Just about any type of the self-healing mats will work, In the US they are available from craft stores, and Walmart. Generally they are in the sewing section. Hobby stores should also carry them. My present one is 12X18". I also have a thick plate glass ex-shelf, that I use. This tends to dull my blades quicker than the plastic mats. It does make a good flat surface for assembling models though. The glass plate is also nice, in that you can slip a drawing under it, while modeling for reference. No worry about damaging the drawing, or photo, while also making sure it stays in place.
  13. Earlier in this thread I detailed my setup for the supports. I orient the cannons at 45 degrees (gives best detail), with the barrels pointed with the muzzle directed away from the build plate. This allows the resin to sort of drain away from the print, during printing. This also gives a better base attachment to the solid breach area, rather than the thinner hollow muzzle. I use Lychee for my slicer program. After angling the barrel, I raise the part up 5mm away from the plate. I use the Raft Form baseplate. The angled walls of the raft allow for easier prying of the parts off the bedplate. I see that you did use the raft in your prints. You don’t state the scale, so that makes this last a little difficult. From about 1/24th to around 1/64th, I use the automatic support feature with medium supports. After that finishes, I go back and manually place two heavy supports under each of the two trunnions (one at the trunnion to barrel area, and one at the tip). I then see if there are any more yellow areas shown, and may add more medium supports to those areas. For smaller scales, I use light supports, with medium ones at the trunnions. This graphic shows a 1_24th scale 32 Pounder cannon, after the medium supports have been auto-generated. In this graphic, I have added one of the heavy supports to a trunnion tip. I print with a layer height equal to the pixel size on the printer. In my case my printer has a 35um pixel, so I used a 35um layer height. Yes, the 45 degree and smaller layer height take longer, but you are printing these for yourself, so just leave it overnight to print. I have an AnyCubic Mono 4K printer. If yours is different, the manufacture’s site generally has the pixel size listed somewhere in the specifications for that printer. Each layer height requires a different exposure time. So, exposure times for the standard 50um layer height will be too long for a 35um layer. I’m going to assume that the temperature is 22C. If it is 22F, yes that is way too low. 22C or 71F should be OK, depending on the resin. Have you calibrated your exposure times? There are several YouTube tutorials on the calibration procedures. It generally takes me a couple of test prints to get the supports right, and I always print as many as the printer will hold. I still get some misprints, so this gives more chances to get good ones you can use. Look at the failure areas and add supports at the failure points. You may also need to bump up the exposure times slightly. 3D Resin printing is more of an artform than science, to get the settings right. So, some experimentation is often needed. I leave the cannons on the supports, if possible, while cleaning them, with small wood or plastic rod run down the barrels to force as much of the resin out of the barrels as possible, after the first cleaning, then I run another cleaning cycle. I also use my smallest micro drill to clean out the touch hole, before the second cleaning, for larger scale prints. Remove the supports before curing, as they will break away cleaner now, than once hardened. I let them dry overnight, before curing. This lets all the cleaning solution dry from those small interior areas. If there is still solution in when you cure, it can leak onto the outside surfaces and mar the surfaces. If all the above still does not fully fix your problems, try raising the temperature in the printing area. I am just a beginner, myself, in 3D printing, so I can not offer any better advice.
  14. Here is an example of one of the Bogard cannons. I've drawn one in each size to check that the cyphers curve properly on the barrel. I'll draw the rest now. This is an 18 Pounder. The line on the barrel, by the cypher, is an artifact of the drawing, it would not show on a print.
  15. Part_016 A few pieces of the top ply on either side of the tail fell off and were lost when it broke. I glued the tail in place, and let it set overnight. I then spent a couple days building up the surface with layers of the Canopy Glue. After the glue had completely dried, I painted the damaged area and the lasered edge with white paint. Here on the backside, you can see a slight bump of extra glue on the corner, after the paint dried, I carefully sanded this off. The cat was now whole again! Now comes the assembly of the wall and tram assembly to the base. This picture shows the three sections ready for attachment. The wall goes on first. No glue yet. After ensuring that everything lined up, I applied glue to the outside edges. In order to get the bridge surface and the front beam to sit correctly together, I had to clamp it. Sharp eyed modelers will note a problem with this picture. The cross arm on the crossing gate is missing in action! The arm broke off while I was trying to get the tram assembly in place. This made it easier to place the central clamp, but what a pain! The arm was located and will be glued on later. If you build this kit, I would recommend waiting until after the whole bridge is together to attach the crossing gate and the tree. I also had to clamp the pier that supports the porch, as the tab would not sit properly in its slot. Up until I repaired the cat, I have been using the colored pencils on the exposed edges, with fair results. But one of the upcoming parts to go on is the front of the case. This has long prominent edges, especially were it meets the stream bed. The pencils just are not enough for this. I decided to mix a custom paint color using my stash of Vallejo paints. The Vallejo bottles have a very small opening, even after you pull of the dispenser tip, so manually stirring them is a losing proposition. To solve this, I put a small stainless-steel ball in each bottle, the first time I use it. The ones I use, shown in the photo below, are specially made for use with water-based paint. Regular SS balls can still rust, if left in permanently. I bought mine through the Web. I have 8mm balls I put in the larger bottles of primer. I pull off the tip drop in a ball and replace the tip. Shaking the bottle until the ball rattles around freely does the job. I put a large black spot on the label to show that bottle already has a mixing ball, using a Sharpie. After some experimenting, I used these three colors (Pale Blue Gray, Black, and Blue) to match the masonry color used in the kit. It is just very slightly a different shade, but on the edge it matches closely. The proportions I used were: 10 Parts gray 2 parts black 2 parts blue For the little I needed I just mixed them in the paint tray. The Vallejo bottles are designed so that it is easy to dispense them a drop at a time, and that is how I measured them out., using 10 drops of the gray to start with. If I had needed a large batch, I have several empty bottles the same form factor as the Vallejo ones, I bought on line. I bought these a few years ago, and have no idea where I found them. I think a search for 17mL paint bottles would turn them up. Here is a picture of the painted edge. I went back and painted as many of the masonry edges as I could reach, at this late stage of construction. The Vallejo paints had no trouble going over the colored pencil marked surfaces. The next step was to reattach the gate arm. There is not a whole lot of contact area, and the mirror will be behind the tram, so I don’t want to add a rear brace, in case it would show. I came up with this setup to hold the arm while a glob of glue dries on the joint. I used extra glue here, counting on it drying clear and sitting at the back of the diorama, to hide it. I wanted the extra to reinforce the joint. The clothes pin on the left is being used as a wedge to position the clamped tip of the arm. Here is the arm the next day. I may pull it a little forward and glue it to the back of the railing. I don’t know how well the glue will support the arm as time goes on. Yes, the trolley pole also broke off, I glued it back on today.
  16. The Bogard Cannons have the following sizes, at on the drawing I have: 4 Pounders: 84" 90" 6 Pounders: 90" 96" 102" 9 Pounders: 96" 102" 108" 12 Pounders: 102" 108" 120" 18 Pounders: 102" 108" 120" 24 Pounders: 110" (108"?) 121" (120?) 32 Pounders: 108" 114" 120" The 24 Pounders may be mis-dimensioned on my 2D drawing.
  17. I'm working on the 6 Pounder Bogards now. Will have your cannon within a week.
  18. Part_015 I returned to the area of the door, to continue assembly. A porch floor, with cherry blossom, is installed. This store has a book shelf display window, that is glued to the back of the wall assembly. This is followed by a print sheet of books. On the outside. of the shelf, there is supposed to be a window pane. Unfortunately, in order to protect the acetate pieces, I stored them in a “Safe Place”. Once I find that place again, I will install it! Here is where the poor cat lost its’ tail! The picture below shows the back of the wall and the wood staple for the LED wires. Here it is after I finally got it installed. A few posts back I said I was going to wait to install the bridge, until later, so I could have a little wiggle room to install the side walls. I might as well have done it then! The next section is building the bridge, and the parts lock it in so firmly, that there is no adjustment, even with none of the parts glued in! Below is a photo of the two bridge piers that go in first. None of the following parts were glued in until the whole bridge was fitted. When that was done, I ran beads of glue at the joints, to fix them in place. The pier on the left has marking to indicate the correct orientation. Here they are installed, without glue. There is a step to attach to the left side of the bridge beam, this forms the top step of the staircase on the retaining wall. I used the slate pencil to color the edges of this step, as well as the steps on the right side of the bridge. I glued this piece. The left-hand support was fitted, next. Once again, no glue at this point. The bridge has been fitted, and glue applied to the joints. It was at this point I remembered the two piers that hold up the lowest step on the right side! Much fiddling and bad words got the pieces in place! I had to do some clamping to hold the bridge to the support, and hold the lower step down while the glue attaching the bottom of the piers to the stream bed dried. Next, I clamped the top step in place so it lined up with the riser on the retaining wall. This was then left to dry.
  19. Part_014 The top layer of the window sill and the window frame went on next, as well as the cat figure. (Yes, the Japanese are typically Cat Crazy, I really like that about them). As it will be detailed later, I should have waited until the wall was attached to the base to install the cat. Later I managed to break the tail, while running the wiring for the LED lamp. I used a white pencil to color the edge of the cat figure. Paint would have been a better choice. The windows were glued in, and an additional bead run down the hinge area at the back This picture shows a closer view of the LED light and shade. Also, at some point previously, I glued on the door knob. Brackets for a sign, and trim pieces are attached above the first-floor roof. I think these represent a gutter that the future drain pipe will feed. A picture of the wall from what will be the back of the diorama. The wiring for the LED coming out of the wall. The two holes just to the right of the wires are for a wood staple to hold, and locate the wires. These holes were overly tight, and while trying to push it in place, I broke the cat’s tail, by not watching how I was holding the wall. I left it that way, and glued it back on after I finished construction of this assembly. Two support brackets went on next. These support the second-floor bay type window. The bay window consists of an outer frame and a grill. The arrows indicate the direction to install the grill. This photo shows the back of the window. The kit did not supply a tan colored window pane for this assembly. I guess there are regular winds behind the grill that are open, and thus do not show. The frame was then glued and clamped in place. Three signs went on. Again, the instructions showed the correct orientation of the signs. I tried to use Google Picture Translate on the signs, but got no results. The next day the clamps were removed, and construction of the roof over the window was started. First, the roof beam was attached, then the store sign installed in the brackets on the first story roof. The sub roof with the rafts went on, next. The corrugated roof, and the drain pipe were glued in place. I used the brown pencil to color the edge of the drain pipe. To be continued.
  20. Part_013 I decided to paint the AC unit, as the brown edges were just too stark a contrast to the light blue of the painted surfaces. I choose to paint it, rather than using pencils, because I did not have a close match in the pencil selection, and due to the tight clearances of the installed unit. I used Vallejo Sky Blue Model Color paint, it also did not closely match the existing color, but I simply painted the whole unit. It took two coats, to fully hide the laser char. I used a brush on the top, bottom, and sides, as well as the raw edges on the front. For the front I used a light load of paint on the end of a Q-Tip, to apply several light coats. I let it dry overnight, and repeated the procedure for the second coat. I used the Q-Tip to paint the front, as I did not want to risk filling in the “Rolife” etched label. I left the center of the bottom alone, as it is not visible on the completed model. In the background to the right, you can see that the first coat did not quite cover the dark laser char. I let the window unit dry overnight. The next day I glued on the corrugated roof piece, as well as a cherry blossom. This finishes this wall as far as gluing pieces to it. I still have to install the metal corner braces, but will do this when I assemble the outer book covers to the base. Here are two pictures of the completed side. Next, I started on the right-hand wall. This photo is of the raw wall piece. The first step is to glue on the door frame part F14. I spent about 20 minutes searching for this on the parts sheet, then in the box I stored the loose pieces in, then the floor, in a repeating cycle, too no avail! Then I looked closer at the wall section, and there it was in the middle off a larger opening above the door! It looked like just another opening. Yes, “Brain Fart Moment”. I used a white pencil to color the edges, then glued it and the trim piece to the right of it in place. I didn’t at first realize that the trim piece was a trim piece, and it was not quite in line with the ones I added later. Luckily the glue had not fully set, and I was able to twist it the little bit needed to get it positioned correctly. The next step was to glue in the door, then the clear window material. It was here that I first realized that the clear glass parts had a protective film on one side! I missed the note about it when I installed the glass on the tram car! The lower trim piece by the bottom of the door, and the window sill parts were the next ones to go on. It was here I realized about that trim piece on the right. There is second window sill piece that goes on top of the one shown in the pictures. This has the slots to mount the windows and a white cat figure. The windows were assembled, and left to dry overnight. The next several steps I don’t have pictures for. I got lost “In The Zone” while building them, and forgot to take pictures. Below are shots of from the instructions on these steps. Part C18, is a multicolored canopy over the door. In the picture below, notice the installation of the LED light over the door. In this kit, it is the only LED. The lighting for the rest of the display comes from a window in the top of the diorama. Construction will continue in Part 14.
  21. Sakura Densya “Cherry Blosom Train” Part_012 The second story of the building is the next section to be built. Construction is started with the floor. The wall structure starts with the spine. The back of the roof beam is attached. Next, the side walls are glued on. The front of the roof beam is glued in place. Now it is time to install the windows, built at the start of the thread. The instructions are shown in the two photos. The windows getting glued in. I ran a bead of glue down the hinge edges to better secure the windows. The clamps are being used as wedges to hold the window edge against the mating surfaces. Here the sub roof piece has been attached. I glued the windows to the book cover/wall and clamped it down. Notice the clothespin clamp used as a sprung spacer. Part 13, will finish this wall, and start the building of the righthand wall.
  22. Sakura Densya “Cherry Blosom Train” Part_011 I am going to start building the lefthand wall in this section. This is the wall that will sit against the stair/retaining wall sections I built earlier. Construction starts with a frame around a wooden wall section. There are locating marks etched on the wall to locate all the pieces that will attach to it. There are two signs that are attached to the wood-colored section. The wall is also etched to indicate their locations. The instructions show the proper orientation for the signs. Here the first sign is glued on, and you can see the outline for the second one on the left. The next part to be attached is a balcony floor, with flower blossom. Then a building roof beam, and balcony railing. Next the AC unit is glued in place. The sign built in the first part of this thread goes on next. I was at Walmart the other day and picked up a 50 pack of Crayola colored pencils. I went through them and found the “Slate” one to come closest to the gray of the retaining wall. I colored in the locating tabs that stuck out of the wall, the front edges of the stone steps, and the edges of the wall cap stones. Below is the before and after photos. The coverage is not great, but it certainly cuts down on the stark contrast between the colored surfaces, and the laser charred edges. I found the “Brown” pencil to be the best match for the wood tree trunk paint. Now, back to the wall. The next parts are the rafters and sub roof that goes over the balcony area. The two pictures show the installed rafter pieces, with two of them having locating tabs for attachment to the wall. Here is the roof piece attached to the wall. I added a line of glue at the joint of the under side of the roof, and the wall to reinforce this area. Looking at the right upper edge of the wall I noticed that the cherry branch etched in was not colored. The first tree I build will attach to the slot to the left. I have no idea if this area will be seen in the finished model. As I had the nice new pencil set, though, I colored in the blossoms and branch. The far right of this area will be behind the mirror, so I left it as is. Doing this showed me one failing of the pencils, you cannot combine colors to get a different shade! Once one color is applied, the pencil “lead” of the next will not mark the first. I applied white to the flower centers, then attempted to add in pink to tone it down. No luck. The pencils have a similar problem with any glue covered surfaces. Next the first corrugated roof covering is glued on. In Part 012 I will continue with the wall construction.
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