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Everything posted by thibaultron

  1. In model railroading we have a saying. "There is a prototype for everything!" We also have a saying, "Never put a window in a chimney!" A couple weeks ago I posted this picture, on my Railroad Forum: When I was a teenager, I passed this house everyday going to school, and just looked it back up on GOOGLE Maps. Having said that, you also have to consider your viewer. Sometimes making a model realistic, can also make it look odd, or unfinished. In the end, however, it is up to you, what you want in your model.
  2. Look on the ME site. They have a practicum for the Phantom, under the documents section of that kit.
  3. Splurged on toys. Bought three sets of detailed tender trucks for my Santa Fe locos. I'm converting an old Mantua/Tyco 2-8-2, and a newer Athearn Genesis 2-8-2 to SF standoff scale ones. involves replacing the cabs, and tenders, as well as smaller details. I'm using old MDC cabs and oil tender bodies, the new 6 wheel trucks, and 3D printing new tender frames. The frames are based on the Mantua metal frames, shortened and with the bolsters respaced. I also ordered a Cricut Explore digital cutting machine. One of the type used for scrapbooking. It can cut basswood sheet up to about 3/64th inch. I'll use it for ship frames and parts, as well as for HO structures. I have about 75 "Clever Models" photo realistic structure kit/files, that I'll print on card and cut out with the machine. I won a contest they ran on naming a new line of kits, and got all the download files for 75% off. I have more than enough for most of the buildings on my layout.
  4. Nice work! Looks like a fine delicate spider web.
  5. BTW. I have the HMS Alert kit from the same manuf. The smaller 1/96th scale, non laser kit.
  6. The only thing about the kit, is I would reca0end not applying the copper tape. A US/Colonial ship of that period, was unlikely to be coppered. The British were just starting to copper their warships about this time (1780). Coppering was very expensive, and experimental at this stage. A private builder was unlikely to be using it. I will be following this build. I love the Baltimore Clipper type ships!
  7. It will likely be Mon. before I can start. Have to work the next 3 days.
  8. I'll read through the whole thing in the next few days.
  9. What a wonderful resource! Thanks for your effort!
  10. Years ago I had an old Jeep CJ, with diamond plate running boards. In the morning I would arrive early at work, and drive around looking for just such drivers. There was not an inch of the side of that Jeep they could damage, and I delighted in parking inches from their doors! Once I got a bonus and found two of them parked over the line, with a space between them. Just enough for me to pull in, with an inch to spare on each side! I climbed out the window, onto the hood, and down the bumper, couldn't even get that narrow door open. I was in heaven!
  11. Here in Augusta, GA, USA, they had an interactive museum, Fort Discovery. It lasted about 10 years. I went once. It was setup for elementary school level students. Even then at its height, about a 1/4 of the displays were broken, kids are rough on stuff.
  12. I was in the grocery store a few years back, with 3 or 4 items in my cart. As I approached the "Express 15 items or less" aisle a lady with an overflowing cart ran into line in front of me! Had to wait while she checked out, then she wanted cigarettes and and the cashier had to go to the returns aisle to get them. After all that she then proceeded to take the cart to the front of the store, and call for her ride, on the phone!!! All told it took about 20 minutes. No, the other lines were full of people with loaded carts, so couldn't go to another line.
  13. My thoughts on the paint/no paint options. If you were building a plastic model of, say a model "T", or a ship, would you leave it the raw plastic color, or would you paint it? I would leave the wood parts with a clear coat, and paint the other parts the correct historical colors.
  14. They make stuff you can brush on rotten wood trim to harden it. Then you use filler to restore the surface. This has fungicide in it. It is thin and soaks into the wood. Maybe these compounds would work. I think one brand was Dr. Wood.
  15. For the problem that the surface in contact with the balloon/bag is smooth, perhaps cover the "mold" with similar cloth, apply the paint/epoxy, etc., let it set then spray it with some sort of mold release. After that put the real sail on. that way the mold surface would be textured, not smooth, and both sides of the sail would be textured.
  16. Frankie; Just started reading this thread. Great model. I had never heard of this book, now thanks to you, I've downloaded both the book and the audio book. Looking forward to reading/hearing it!
  17. "Finished" the spray booth, here is a picture. I still have to paint the base, but that can wait, I ran out of cheap paint brushes, and its been too cold for me to want to clean out a good one, at the outside faucet.
  18. Here are some pictures of the finished spray booth: These are a couple of pictures of the airbrush mount, and the regulator mount. The short length of glue strip is there as the regulator mount screws were longer than the ply was thick. I made a temporary dust cover for the booth out of a couple boxes, that I used as drop “cloths” while painting the booth.
  19. Started a new thread about the construction of my spray booth. I started detailing it on the “What have you done today” thread, but figured that that was to much info to clutter it with. I’m going to put the earlier postings in with the date I posted them, then continue in this thread. So the beginning may be somewhat choppy, stick with me.
  20. Years ago (about 35), I had the throttle linkage pop of the carb. The little plastic clip holding it on broke. When I went to the dealer to get another one, surprise!! They did not sell the clip separately, you had to buy the whole carb!!! The parts person looked at me for a few seconds, shook his head, then took the clip off the new carb. and handed to to me. He said no charge, that he would return the new carb. as defective. He said that having to buy the whole carb. was ridiculous!
  21. A couple days ago I got the casters on the base, and assembled the top to it. The booth is screwed to it also. I'd post some pictures, but right now I was able to just clear enough space to set it up in the middle of the clutter in my work shop. The area it, and most of the clutter will go, hasn't been been finished yet. Yesterday, I painted the inside of the spray booth white, and added a temporary light to the top. Unfortunately the only good can of white I had was flat white, my gloss white is so old I would have needed a putty knife to apply it! When I opened it, it was the consistency of well stirred grape jelly. I'll have to buy another small can of it. I want gloss to make cleanup easier. The light I put in is one of those small 18" kitchen under cabinet ones. It normally hangs under the shelf over my work bench, to add fill in light, while I'm working there. It does make the interior quite bright, so for now it will do. Today I plan on painting the outside, if I can find the can of tan paint I have somewhere in the above clutter.
  22. Thanks for this tutorial! I think I'll use this method for my 1/64th Skipjack, that I may even have time to get back to soon.
  23. Could the sound have been lessened by the blast being outside the hull?