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About ChrisLBren

  • Birthday 11/08/1969

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  1. Kits to start with and avoid?

    I recommend the AL Harvey along with Frank Mastinis Book Ship Modeling Simplified which references this kit. You can pick it up for under 100 dollars on EBay. While not historically accurate - it's an easy build and makes into an attractive first time model. https://m.ebay.com/itm/ARTESANIA-LATINA-1-50-Scale-Baltimore-Clipper-HARVEY-Kit-MINT-Cond-Nice/132653398889?epid=1320503011&hash=item1ee2c23b69:g:dSQAAOSw8FBbGJJV
  2. Choosing chisels

    As a new user/sharpener I have to agree re Lie Nielsen. They cost more but are so much easier to sharpen (because they're almost perfect to begin with). I too use the Veritas Narrow guide system and waterstones. There's a big difference between the 1 inch Irvin I bought for 15.00 vs the Nielsens. If sure if you spend enough time sharpening the Irvins they will cut the same - not sure if they will keep an edge as long. This same chisel would have been 70 dollars with LN - they are also beautiful tools...
  3. Greatest 74 gun ship

    French ships in my opinion are much more attractive (hull lines/sculptures/figureheads) than US or English - thats the reason I am drawn to them. I do agree - the British were probably better at seamanship/combat/longer term stability of construction. But Im a model builder not a sailor !
  4. Wooden Mallet for Chisels

    That's what I thought ! Thanks Kurt - you just saved me 30 bucks
  5. Hey Group Do I need one of these to work with my chisels on 1/4 inch thick pear stock or will a sharp one with elbow grease be sufficient. Im finally getting around to sharpening my chisels and will be using them this weekend. Thanks for any input !
  6. Im very happy with mine from Woodcraft https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-benchtop-spindle-sander?gclid=Cj0KCQiAieTUBRCaARIsAHeLDCQlQ-e-iK_AxBoNWaNNzAJm40t0bQhkZvTfCUYg4ltuU8kBhgpyBFAaAv7lEALw_wcB
  7. Thanks for the advice everyone - didnt get much modeling done and have yet to sharpen these chisels. My kids wanted me to build a Jedi Temple - so Ive been busy with that project. Happy Holidays everyone !
  8. Thanks for the advice - so the factory bevel is at 30 percent on these chisels. So thinking I will clamp them in the Veritas system dialed to that setting and adjust the knob from 12 OClock to 6 OClock and then use the 1000 stone side of the stone to create the Micro Bevel and then polish with 4000. And then flip over to remove the burr with the 4000 stone. Does that sound about right ?
  9. Hey Group, Now that my La Renommee build is finally under weigh its finally time to sharpen the beautiful set of Lie Neilsen chisels I received as a gift from my wife last year. I own the Lee Valley MK Narrow Blade Honing Guide and a Japanese Water Stone 1000/4000. I work primarily with Pear Wood. I noticed in the instructions that you can set your honing guide to various bevel angle. Is 30-35 percent the proper setting ? Ive heard this system is full proof - but these were very expensive chisels - so I want to make sure I don't screw them up when I sharpen them tomorrow. Any advice is appreciated ! Chris
  10. Walnut or other similar uniform dark brown woods?

    For me it comes down to the trouble of breaking down a board - if I can pay someone 60 dollars to do it for me faster and better than I can who is 15 minutes away - why not ? As is it I have limited time to model - I get up early to sneak an hour or 2 in if I can before the kids wake up. I got an hour into cutting and sanding the first timber on my next build (its Le Renommee in 1/48th Mike) - before being interrupted !
  11. Walnut or other similar uniform dark brown woods?

    Yeah it really is the way to go Mike - my guy here charges me 60 per hour - which is more than enough time to reduce you lumber into useable billets. These are industrial machines - super efficient and do a way better job in less time than I would - not too mention spares me the dust. Good luck - Hearne has beautiful wood
  12. Walnut or other similar uniform dark brown woods?

    Hey Mike, I would go to these guys - they are my wood source - first class service and product: they have a huge selection http://hearnehardwoods.com/ Buy a larger board and take it locally to a milling service and have them dimension into standard sizes - 3/8,1/4, 3/16. Your Brynes tools can handle these dimensions and its way more cost effective. I have racks of Pear, Ebony and some Box enough to handle a few scratch builds.
  13. Jet or Dewalt scroll saw

    Yeah I love my Dewalt too ! Its on its own stand and cuts vibration free. Way better than the crappy Delta i used to own to build my Confederacy....
  14. I bought this product off Ebay and have a couple of jars of it - to me it works very similar to a sepia oil paint thinned wash. Some of the Russians mix it with Tung Oil as a finish. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pentart-Liquid-Patina-30ml-Bitumen-for-Antiquing-Decoupage-/202061449669?epid=1565589069&hash=item2f0bcd09c5:g:xf0AAOSw7NpZw7GT
  15. Band or Scroll saw

    My vote is for a scroll saw as well - but dont skimp on the cost. I owned a table top Delta unit I paid 100 USD on ebay - the vibration was so terrible it was almost impossible to use and broke many blades. My new DeWalt mounted on a stand made a world of difference - it cost me close to 500 USD but is a dream to use - its extremely accurate and i can cut curves closely to plan lines easily. I will be using this saw quite a bit cutting out frame pieces for my next fully framed build.

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