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ChrisLBren

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About ChrisLBren

  • Birthday 11/08/1969

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Chicago

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  1. Thanks for the advice everyone - didnt get much modeling done and have yet to sharpen these chisels. My kids wanted me to build a Jedi Temple - so Ive been busy with that project. Happy Holidays everyone !
  2. Thanks for the advice - so the factory bevel is at 30 percent on these chisels. So thinking I will clamp them in the Veritas system dialed to that setting and adjust the knob from 12 OClock to 6 OClock and then use the 1000 stone side of the stone to create the Micro Bevel and then polish with 4000. And then flip over to remove the burr with the 4000 stone. Does that sound about right ?
  3. Hey Group, Now that my La Renommee build is finally under weigh its finally time to sharpen the beautiful set of Lie Neilsen chisels I received as a gift from my wife last year. I own the Lee Valley MK Narrow Blade Honing Guide and a Japanese Water Stone 1000/4000. I work primarily with Pear Wood. I noticed in the instructions that you can set your honing guide to various bevel angle. Is 30-35 percent the proper setting ? Ive heard this system is full proof - but these were very expensive chisels - so I want to make sure I don't screw them up when I sharpen them tomorrow. Any advice is appreciated ! Chris
  4. Walnut or other similar uniform dark brown woods?

    For me it comes down to the trouble of breaking down a board - if I can pay someone 60 dollars to do it for me faster and better than I can who is 15 minutes away - why not ? As is it I have limited time to model - I get up early to sneak an hour or 2 in if I can before the kids wake up. I got an hour into cutting and sanding the first timber on my next build (its Le Renommee in 1/48th Mike) - before being interrupted !
  5. Walnut or other similar uniform dark brown woods?

    Yeah it really is the way to go Mike - my guy here charges me 60 per hour - which is more than enough time to reduce you lumber into useable billets. These are industrial machines - super efficient and do a way better job in less time than I would - not too mention spares me the dust. Good luck - Hearne has beautiful wood
  6. Walnut or other similar uniform dark brown woods?

    Hey Mike, I would go to these guys - they are my wood source - first class service and product: they have a huge selection http://hearnehardwoods.com/ Buy a larger board and take it locally to a milling service and have them dimension into standard sizes - 3/8,1/4, 3/16. Your Brynes tools can handle these dimensions and its way more cost effective. I have racks of Pear, Ebony and some Box enough to handle a few scratch builds.
  7. Jet or Dewalt scroll saw

    Yeah I love my Dewalt too ! Its on its own stand and cuts vibration free. Way better than the crappy Delta i used to own to build my Confederacy....
  8. I bought this product off Ebay and have a couple of jars of it - to me it works very similar to a sepia oil paint thinned wash. Some of the Russians mix it with Tung Oil as a finish. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pentart-Liquid-Patina-30ml-Bitumen-for-Antiquing-Decoupage-/202061449669?epid=1565589069&hash=item2f0bcd09c5:g:xf0AAOSw7NpZw7GT
  9. Band or Scroll saw

    My vote is for a scroll saw as well - but dont skimp on the cost. I owned a table top Delta unit I paid 100 USD on ebay - the vibration was so terrible it was almost impossible to use and broke many blades. My new DeWalt mounted on a stand made a world of difference - it cost me close to 500 USD but is a dream to use - its extremely accurate and i can cut curves closely to plan lines easily. I will be using this saw quite a bit cutting out frame pieces for my next fully framed build.
  10. Thickness sander

    Hi Michael, This is very helpful - I too have wondered about Thickness Sanders vs a Planer. I have an operation near where I live that mills my flitch of Pear to billets of standard dimensions - 1/4 or 3/8 thick by 2 inches wide by 24 inches long - I have no desire to do the heavy lifting here. I do want the best tool for precision work for final dimensions. It sounds like if I can get a hang of it - the Byrnes tool is the right one for my purposes. Best, Chris
  11. Thickness sander

    Hey Group, I too am wondering how to use this tool - I've only used it a few times - but soon I will need to reduce some 1/4 inch thick blanks to 7/32nds thick and I want consistent results. I hope Kurt doesn't mind me jumping on this thread - but I think his question is similar to mine. What is the step by step way to carry out this operation ? A tutorial for using this sander if you will - that will address amongst other things - how much do you take off per pass to get to close to final dimension before using the finishing side of the drum. Also I read somewhere on this site the sander feeds better if you rest the front of the machine on a 2x4 so the table is more horizontal. Thanks Chris
  12. Boomkin Question

    Thanks Dave - Ill probably just end up mounting it 2/3rd's up the stem unless any other concrete info comes to light. Chris
  13. Boomkin Question

    Hey Group, I am about to mount the boomkins to the stem of my Confederacy and have been trying to find some information as to how high on the stem they would have been mounted. I have seen photos showing them mounted anywhere from resting on the beakhead deck to almost the top of the stem itself. These are spars curve downward so changing the height they at which they are mounted on the stem changes their appearance. I don't own Lees Masting and Rigging - maybe there is some info there ? Any info is appreciated. Chris
  14. Is Crown Timberyard still open for business?

    These guys are the best - I bought a flitch of Pearwood from them this past spring - I had it milled here in Chicago into 70 planks 24 x 2 x 1/4 and 6 planks 24 x 2 x 3/8. And thats only half of my supply - the rest is on pallets. All in for wood/shipping and milling it cost me 700 dollars. http://www.rarewoodsusa.com/
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