ChrisLBren

Hi Group,

I purchased an Emco Unimat 3 with an extra motor and milling attachment a few years ago from a fellow member and never set it up.  Last year I purchased a Taig Mill and love it - its sturdy and powerful with a long bed.  It was ready right out of the box without any modifications and has been used extensively on my Le Gros Ventre build.

I am considering selling the Unimat on ebay and buying a new metal lathe - not only for ship building but also to turn wooden pens for clients.  I am leaning towards another Taig  However I am curious about the Sherline as I have heard its a terrific lathe.  I am new at wood and metal turning so want one thats a good intro model I can grow with.

Thanks for any opinions here.

Nice work Chris - I know what you mean Ancre plans.  They are so accurate - I made the same mistake leaving too much fat on the stern part assemblies on my Le Gros Ventre build and after a half dozen failed attempts I learned - the more accurate your parts are to the plans including the bevels/bias - the better the results.  And less sanding !!!

Chris

No dovetails for me on the wing transom.  They're not necessary and posed way too much of a risk when creating that part - and now even riskier now the assembly is complete !

Thanks for the advice on the extensions Mark.

Thanks everyone - I will attempt the hawse extensions next.  Im just trying to wrap my head around the approach and understanding the plans here.  I believe one must plane the blanks to the proper angle first, then cut out the pattern.  The biases are then added once the pieces are in a jig that depicts the tops of the extensions and their positions on the curve.

Good morning Group,

After some spending some time in the doldrums, I have restarted Le Gros Ventre and spent the past month working on this assembly.  I probably built each part a half dozen times...

Decisions, do I begin the installation of the frames or tackle the other really tough part of the build, the hawse extensions?

Love it Chuck - so simple but effective !!!!

Great advice and gorgeous model !!!!

Hey Group,

I am wondering if there is a full proof way to avoid this.  I am notching pearwood using a mill and sometimes experience chipping on the cut. Right now my mill is set at a high speed at 10000 RPM and I am using new mill bits.  Do I need to reduce speed here or just making many small passes at a time for each notch ?  

Thanks !

6 minutes ago, Jaager said:

Tung oil will go over a shellac base, so you have burned no bridges.

If you do not wish to wait for pure Tung oil to polymerize naturally

Sutherland Wells offers a variety of already partially polymerized Tung oil - and now they have 4 oz sample sizes that will not break the bank.

https://www.sutherlandwelles.com/original.html

Thanks for the tip Jaager - I just want a full proof finish on a fully framed model other than poly or tung - I may try some darker shellac flakes and or a wax finish to try to achieve the look I want with my pear wood.  Stand by for some more tests.

So far after two coats of 1lb blonde shellac on some scraps Im not happy with it - I think I will mix up to a 2lb cut.  Its almost a "non finish" at this point after buffing in between coats with steel wool.  

I do like the pure tung oil finish better at this point however dont want to give up yet.  I also understand many modelers use a wax finish as an alternative.  I am a fan of more natural finishes than a poly finish.  

Any tips are appreciated as always.

Hi Group,

I bought some blonde shellac flakes at Rockler to experiment with on Black Friday.  I am wondering for those of you who use this finish what sort of cut rate you use.  Many recommend a two lb cut rate however I wonder if this is too thick.  I created my first batch at a 1lb cut rate and would rather build up a finish than lay on one that is too thick.  

Any advice is appreciated !

Chris

That model looks terrible in my opinion - a bastardized attempt at accurate construction.  Build the Caldercraft model or Chris's design with Amati if it ever sees the light of day

Look forward to it Mic !  Welcome back

Problem solved - the belt guard was causing the issues.  I removed it - with the new motor the saw cuts better than ever.  

Belt guard is probably bent - will need to straighten it out before re - installing 

Thanks Kurt - will check this out and get back

Hey Group,

I am wondering if any of you have a tip for me here.  Recently I had the saw's motor replaced by Jim and it was shipped back to me.  Once I turn the power I noticed a rattling vibration noise where the motor plugs into the rear belt gear of the saw under the guard.  After maybe no more than 10 or 15 seconds if I touch the belt guard its red hot.  Something is causing friction back here obviously.  The belt guard does look properly seated on the unit. 

I have an email into Jim - I know he's trying to take some time off right now.  Any ideas are appreciated - I do not want to operate the saw until I can solve this issue.

Chris

Congrats - gorgeous model !!!!  

Nice work Greg !  I do love this ship and enjoy watching your progress

Chris

Looks great Greg - will be following along

Looks fantastic Rusty - love the all pear look - very elegant.  Congrats !!!!!

Thanks John - the instructions that came with the JET are crap - but I have almost assembled it and will check out this video.  It feels more solid than the competitors - once I have it built I will share a review.  

I bought the JET and am very happy - now I have an entire array of saws without having to change any blades - the mini Preac, Jim Byrnes table saw, Dewalt Scroll 788, JET 10 inch Bandsaw and Dewalt 10 Inch Table Saw all suited to their various purposes in the shop.  Fingers crossed I can focus on model building vs honey dos around the house !!!!!

Honestly I dont want to spend an additional 600 dollars for the 14 inch Grizzly.  From examining both machines the JET feels more solid - better fence and table than the Rikon and for my purposes of cutting 1 inch hardwood and under - it should be up for the job.  I am not resawing.  I think the key here is setting up the saw properly with the right blade.  

I will probably purchase the JET - it has the HP I need, a solid stand and a good fence. 

I am not a golfer - they will spend 100s on a club for certain situations during the game.  For me having the right tool and not having to adapt one that's not suited makes a lot of sense.

Thanks for the responses.  I already own a Dewalt 788 Scroll Saw (great for curves) along with a Byrnes Saw (and his other tools) and have a with a fully equipped shop including two mills (Proxxon and Taig) a Unimat Lathe and various sanders - thickness and oscillating etc.  I am about to start on a fully framed build in 1/36 and want a saw that does not stall making precise straight cuts in 1/2 - 1 inch hardwood that is safe and handy (unlike my full size Dewalt 10 inch circular saw) which is a scary beast.  

It would be great to have the ability to  handle other household jobs (shelves for the wife and wainscotting etc) but accuracy for my ship modeling with a solid fence is most important.