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usedtosail

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About usedtosail

  • Birthday 04/27/1955

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  • Location
    Eastern shore of Newfound Lake, NH

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  1. I do have the sheet with those items Jeremy, but it does not include any planks. The instructions say to use the same planking as used on the hull.
  2. I have started building the cutter using the parts that came with the kit. My kit came with two keels pieces, one in MDF the same width as the frames and a thinner one in pear. I glued the frames to the thinner one but the slots are bigger than the keel, so I also used some thin CA with the wood glue to help hold the frames to the keel. The two transom pieces fit perfectly though as their slots were cut for the thinner keel. The instructions say to plank with 3mm wide strips, but my kit only came with 4mm pear strips for all planking. I have enough end cuts from planking the hull so I ripped these down to 3mm using the Byrnes saw. I have also shaped the two lower masts and one of the topmasts (they are both the same on this ship according to the plans). I started by shaping the square sections by hand using files, then used the lathe to shape the round sections. No pictures yet though.
  3. Thanks for your responses guys. I know I didn't do that. After taking more measurements yesterday I think this is a cautionary tale about small errors adding up - the wales are a bit too high, the channels are a bit too low, the bottoms of the gun ports may have been filed down a bit too far, etc. creating about a 2mm error in the location of the chain plates. Oh well, time to move on. I added the rest of the deck fittings today, which was pretty straight forward. The aft ladder was too tight in the coaming so I filed the sides of the coaming and deck a bit until it fit nicely. The anchor lines I made from 0.076" line I made when I built the Duchess of Kingston model. I am going to build the ship's boat next but also the masts at the same time. I have four sails still to make and I have to make them one at a time, so I would like to get started on them soon. But I need the exact heights of the mast sections and stays to size them accurately.
  4. I added pins to the channels and glued them to the hull. I added the deadeyes to the chain plates and slipped them into the holes in the channels, then used a piece of dowel with a string on it to get the angles of the chain plates. I drilled holes in the wales and glued in cut off nails to hold them. You can see that I was only able to get the top holes on the wales for the large deadeyes. The height of the channels is set by the lower edge of the gunport and the position of the wales was marked on the outer bulwarks so I am not sure why they didn't match up unless the chain plates are a little too long. I went ahead and added a nail through the lower holes under the wales which looks OK to me. These holes are come out under the deck so I could use a whole nail for them, unlike the chain plates for the small deadeyes that go through the bulwark. These holes have to be pretty shallow so they don't show on the inside, so it is tough getting the small cut off nails into these holes. I will be adding all the deck items next. My kit came with wooden gratings along with the PE ones. I am using the wooden ones, which I gave a coat of wipe on poly. They fit the coamings perfectly and look great. I am also adding the cannon balls to the rakes on the coamings before adding the coamings to the deck.
  5. Thank you Theodosius. I have to give another shout out to @chris watton on the ladder kits that came with this ship kit. Again they are different than what is shown in the original instructions, but they fit together sooo nicely and look great when completed. The steps fit into the side rails with just enough pressure so that they hold together even before gluing. These were the easiest ladders I have ever built and also the best looking. Thanks again Chris.
  6. Making progress on the deck and bulwark fittings. I have secured the cannons and attached the ring bolts on the ends of the breaching lines to the bulwarks. I have also added the tackle ringbolts to the bulwarks, as well as the metal and wooded cleats. The starboard pin rails are installed too. I installed the first couple too low but was able to remove them and move them up higher so the tops of the belaying pins were above the rails. I drilled out the marked holes in the deck (thanks Chris) and pushed in the deck ring bolts I made. Here is how they came out.
  7. Chris I am glad you provided both cap squares. I was really happy with the way the painted wooden cap squares looked when painted black and much less fiddly, but having both options was good.
  8. I have finished all the cannons and most of the rest of the items for the deck and inner bulwarks. I will start by gluing the cannons down first then attaching the breech ropes to the bulwarks. I will also be adding the cleats and ringbolts to the bulwarks at the same time. I will be adding the pin rails after all the lower items are installed on the bulwarks. Then I will add the deck fittings and the ring bolts for the training tackle. For these I used the rings from the kit but with a piece of 28 gauge wire bent through it. This will be placed in a hole in the deck so that the eyebolt doesn't protrude from the deck. I saw this method in one of @Chuck 's latest posts.
  9. Cannon production is in full swing. I have been painting the sides and axles of the carriages. I used a small file to make the axles round where the wheels fit on. I painted the parts in two batches, but I managed to paint mostly left sides in the first batch so I could only assemble a few carriages from the first batch. Not sure how I managed that. When assembling the carriages, I add the cannon barrel and the bolt through the sides before gluing them to the axles. I found this easier than trying to add the bolts later. I then add the quoin, wheels and eyebolt in the back axle. I am making up the breach ropes off the cannon, as you can see in the above picture. I slide on a ring bolt, two eyebolts, and another ring bolt to a piece of 0.025" line, then seize the ring bolts to the ends. I don't fix the seizings yet so I can adjust the length of the breach line. I then open up a loop in the middle of the breach line and slip it over the cascabel of the cannon. I glue the two eyebolts into the holes in the carriage sides, then adjust the length of the breach rope to be about even with the end of the barrel. Here are the first three cannons ready to be installed. I'll glue them down first then glue the ring bolts on the ends of the breach ropes to the holes in the bulwarks. I'll also add empty ring bolts to the other two holes at each gun port. For this model I am just rigging the cannons with breach ropes. I drilled out all of the holes along the inner bulwarks for the cannons and cleats so they are ready to go. I also have the pin rails ready to be painted after adding pins to each one.
  10. Yes varnish will slow done the "patina"-ing of the copper plates. That's a really nice plating job there.
  11. I painted the cap black on the three sets of carriage parts to test the assembly and then built three carriages using the jig I made. I have to say they went together easier than I thought, even with having to cannon barrel in between the two sides as I lined everything up. I also like the look, so I will use the carriage sides as is. I still need to add the bolts, wheels, and quoins to these but I don't anticipate problems with them. I went ahead and started painting all the carriage parts red. I also used a toothpick as a mandrel in a Dremel tool to sand the char off the wheels.
  12. Thanks for the responses Nipper and Ron. I made a jig like I usually do to glue up the sides and axles, but in testing it out I realized that if I use the sides as they are I have to put the cannon barrel in the sides before I glue them to the axles. This also means I need to paint the individual parts before glueing so I don't have to paint around the barrel. I am painting three sets of carriage parts now and will try assembling them as is, but if I find it too awkward I may do as you suggest Ron and file or cut off the wooden cap part of the sides.
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