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nancysqueaks

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About nancysqueaks

  • Birthday 03/11/1943

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    Male
  • Location
    South Devon UK

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  1. Hi Adrie, you will find the 'instructions' refer to the non-laser cut frames, they are correct at 1mm. A really nice start, regards, Nick
  2. Hi Doug, I have just looked at you build log of the Leon, really very nice work. Years ago I discovered Underhill's work and was impressed that here was an amazing resource when such resources were non- existent apart from odd sources such as Davis. I eventually started re-drafting from poorly reproduced drafts and were what I felt was in places deviations from full size practice in order to produce and acceptable build in those days. the horn timbers were a case in point. That is not to say many lovely models have been produced. A member of this forum Jack Nastyface produced an excellent model before the MSB crash, and may be contactable. However my source is purely from the book Plank on Frame Models Vol 1. My interpretation may be incorrect. On page 80 diag. 58 is a small drawing of the deck beams and the chocks. There is a diag. 57 showing fabrication of lodging knees. A following couple of diags. on page 108 indicating normal practice, not used in the Leon. The last para on page 109 is appropriate to read in conjunction. NOW does this mean hanging knees were omitted, or have I as said before gotten it wrong? A model in a museum in Dartmouth, up the coast from here shows no hanging knees, though it is fully planked and coppered and difficult to ascertain, it is obvious the model was build following Underhill to the letter. I have no rememberance of Jack Nastyface's model having hanging knees either. As I may have stirred up a hornet's nest, I apologise if this is all in vain. However by my reckoning it would be iron if hanging knees were fitted. Regards, Nick
  3. Hi Doug, I may be very very wrong but I recall that Leon had a beam shelf with chocks, rather than hanging knees. Cheers, Nick.
  4. nancysqueaks

    UK Timber Suppliers

    Hi rtwpsom2, well that is not a bad price. To give you some example I have 8 free growing box trees and one in a tub. After 14 years without too much pruning they are yet to obtain the height of a metre and a half. To buy a replacement for the one in the tub would probably cost in access of £150.00 and that is purely for gardening. I had planned to fell a couple and season the wood, but as Longridge would say the essence of the contract is.... etc. However for small carvings etc. it may well be worth in. I only wish my Grandfather had put in a stand of Box, ah well! The UK climate is the secret for good box. Regards, Nick.
  5. nancysqueaks

    Byrnes saw sled

    Ben, thank you for this information. I have just ordered the sled, answers a real requirement for the Byrnes saw. Nick
  6. nancysqueaks

    M. S. Batory - Maly Modelarz - 1:300 - Card

    Hi All, I thought I had better bring this log a bit up to date. Well I am nearly, but not quite ready to resume the build log. Having followed the other builds on this forum, I do realise I will have to improve my build standards! So I have started again!! I will post as soon as I have something worth showing, as really it is just a repeat of my prior posts. So just to re-assure that I am not deserting the post! Regards, Nick.
  7. Dan, I really had to say what a wonderful model you are making and, and as such makes me want to get going on my Batory. Thank you for all the hints and tips you have given. Very inspirational, kind regards, Nick.
  8. nancysqueaks

    M. S. Batory - Maly Modelarz - 1:300 - Card

    Hi Danny, sorry I didn't notice your query very quickly. Yes I will be continuing the Batory - I won't put a date on it but should be over the next month. Life has a habit of throwing a few curved balls, and I seem to have had my share over the last 2 years or so. I have purely by chance met a card modeller from Poland, but unfortunately my Polish is about as good as his English. However it seems that the Polish forums consider the Batory difficult and some of the smaller parts virtually impossible to construct. We will see! I am finding the three card models builds of Catopower, Capt. Slog, and yourself very useful, and I can see myself redoing some of my build in the light of that information. Kind regards, Nick
  9. nancysqueaks

    M. S. Batory - Maly Modelarz - 1:300 - Card

    Hi everybody, it's been rather longer than I expected to make another entry in this build log due an unexpected problem with double vision. Fortunately nothing serious, caused in all probability by wearing old and bent glasses for certain activities. Has all been sorted by wearing a corrective lens for a couple of months. So I do hope to resume this log in the next couple of weeks, regards, Nick.
  10. Hi Slog, I am following your build as a template of methods and ideas, very crisp work indeed. I am using the Roket glue you mentioned and find it very fast to grab, strong but as yet untested on large areas. Another product from the same company is Glue n' Gaze, originally for use as a glue on clear plastics. However it is also used to make clear windows up to about 6mm and works very well. The method used is to slowly pull the glaze across an opening, translucent at first dries to clear in about 2 minutes or so. The portholes are very impressive, and I intend to use a similar method, so thanks for all the methodology. Regards, Nick.
  11. nancysqueaks

    M. S. Batory - Maly Modelarz - 1:300 - Card

    Hi to all, This is a rather brief update of the modification of the frames by incorporating four extra cardboard 'decks'. This is only a dry assembly in order to work out the areas where some more attention may be required. I am a little further on from here, but have yet to take any photos, but have remade 3 of the bulkheads that were a bit out. I am also fairing both the new decks and incorporating balsa filling at the stern and stem prior to final assembly. The photo etch has arrived and initially felt I was cheating, but have changed my mind considerably as it really will add to the build in areas that would just be impossible. On this post I have left any detail as I think it is obvious what I have done to strengthen the hull. I plan to use balsa stringers to reinforce the mounts. I'm sorry about the quality of the photos quickly taken and hand held. Regards, Nick
  12. nancysqueaks

    M. S. Batory - Maly Modelarz - 1:300 - Card

    Hello all, Many thanks to Slog for putting me on the right track for posting photos and description. I have to admit it was causing me extreme frustration, and I'm not too sure whether I would have sorted that one. Thank you for Tadheus and NJQUACK for your likes. I'm resting up from the build to get the garden ready for winter, it's supposed to be Autumn in the UK but we have been enjoying Spring like temps. I will also attempt to finish the hull in skeletal form before posting. Regards, Nick.
  13. nancysqueaks

    M. S. Batory - Maly Modelarz - 1:300 - Card

    Hi everyone, Whilst there has been very little visual progress, I have started on the strengthening of the hull using in the main card. I have started making two 'decks' that slot into the bulkheads. This idea is of course not original and is a copy of some of the kit build logs on the forum. Accuracy is paramount here and some attention to the alignment of the slots for no 6 bulkhead is indicated in one of the photos!! What would be useful if someone could just tell me what I'm not doing being unable in getting the description of the photos linked with them. Any help really appreciated, until I do sort it I will just have to describe them here. First two photos show cutting first slot for 'deck', and the new deck (not faired). The next three photos are general views of the dry fitting of the deck. The following are general view with the slot of no 6 looking a bit out, unless the camera is lying! Regards, Nick.
  14. nancysqueaks

    M. S. Batory - Maly Modelarz - 1:300 - Card

    Hi All, Thank you slog for your comments on cutting, I do find I am getting a bit better at cutting both square and just to the right side of the line. So far on the new work things are fitting better but going a lot slower. I am trying to 'second guess' problems and I think I would be tempted if possible not to join on a former of .5mm! And looking at some of the very small detail work coming up I think I will be repeating sections until I am happy. This seems the real advantage of card, one it is a challenge to make it 'not look like card' and also to 'make it from card'. And many thanks to Mumin for some really interesting links to build logs. I think for the moment I would leave expanding foam, particularly on this small model as my worry is to maintain the formers at a right angle to the 'keel', however as mentioned the build logs are a real eye opener as to what can and is being achieved in card. I seem to be developing a mind set of firstly building as much as the model in card. To this end I am substituting card for wood in all but the two bottom stringers as indicated in my earlier photos. I am underway with the working out the layout of these card 'stringers' and hope to get some progress that is worth detailing in the log by the week end. I found that GMP have some photo etch parts for this model and ....... well I couldn't resist ordering, so maybe by the end of the week! Regards, Nick.
  15. nancysqueaks

    M. S. Batory - Maly Modelarz - 1:300 - Card

    Hello to all, Following my last post I have decided to start the build again from scratch. I will be using the existing first build as a 'rough and ready' test bed. I really had underestimated the learning curve as to what one could and couldn't do. The first picture show very sloppy cutting and the bulkheads whilst requiring some thickening do need to be square with the bulkheads. I think I imagined being card that a bit of leeway would be available for detailed fitting - not so!! The second picture just shows testing the fit of the skins to the bulkheads (my terminology) The following two pictures are how I propose to use an old candlestick to make a pedestal, connected via a M4 screw held in place by a wing nut with reduced wings. So I will continue the build log and attempt to crack loading pictures via full editor, not having much success so far! And will in effect have two builds going on at the same time may help, I hope 'get it right' first time. I have also found a good 1mm backing paper that cuts very much easier than the original backing I was using. This should help me cut more accurate lines. I have certainly found a new interest in card models, and it is so easy to just 'do a bit' without much fuss. It will be some time to get to the waterline hull, but I will from now on post the build log with more detail. Regards Nick

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