Passer

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About Passer

  • Birthday 06/07/1976

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    Male
  • Location
    Helsingborg, Sweden

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  1. You are welcome Rick. I think my kit will be a hybrid between Sherbourne and Cheerful since I actually more follow Cheerful instructions. Maybe I name the ship just as "Cutter".
  2. Tony, tonight I found the long and interesting discussion about Gun port lids on Sherbourne (actually by accident on google..) you and others had some years ago. really interesting. This evening i reshaped one of the gun port openings to diamond form with the sides 90 degrees to the keel (the right gun port). For me it looks much better so I will go for it. This will also apply to the small square sweep holes. I will also most probably use lids for the gun ports and this is because I like it and I want to learn to do it before Vasa. I will also do covers for the sweep holes because it feels wrong to have gun port lids when there is other openings without covers. For this I will use AOTS Granado as a guide. I also manage to start to work at the stern. I used the milling machine to redo the stern frames in massive Walnut. I just can't stand plywood were the edges are visual..even if it will be painted. I think to put in 1 tree nail in each of the center ones just to make them stronger. I must be crazy but I really find it relaxing to do tree nails with my draw plate...... Sorry about the light in the photos. I have two working stations with two different lamps. The white lamps make the photos boring with no color and the yellow lamps gives too much color....must try to find a way to make this better. I also attach one photo on my building place if anyone is interested.
  3. Seems that you have got the door frames and they are in plywood. So it is here the replacement starts (and ofc the gun carriages also)
  4. I forgot to mention this. My gun ports are in higher positioning than the ones in the pre-cut plywood. When I had planked the outer side I used the top of the planks to positioning the gun ports. In this case they follow the natural bending of the outer sides planking. And it is this bending I mean the deck also should follow.
  5. Yes, have checked there logs (and will use many ideas there) . When I lock at the original drawing (the bad one on internet..) so feel I that the outer shape and planking on my kit looks correct, but it seems that the deck positioning on the Sherbourne kit is wrong (too low at the bow) and it is this that cause the height problem of the gun ports. Chucks Cheerful has the diamond shaped ports and that was what I paid attention to yesterday so I started to think.... If the ports are not diamond shaped so will the tree nailing look weird around the ports since the frames are vertical. It will be tree nailing on the hull and no paint. I will only use red (inner planking) and black (on the whale and upper rail) paint on this model. I will use Chucks instructions on the hull planking. Preparing for it at the moment.
  6. Hello again Have started my Sherbourne again after some time. Now I have a question about the shape of the gun ports. Shouldn't the gun ports follow the lines I have put in the photo instead of be square to the upper rail? I have already cut them open so if I must change, they have to be little bit bigger. I thinking of use covers for the gun ports, but if I change the form, can they still be operated if the opening is a diamond form? And also the tree nailing. Shouldn't they also follow the line (90 degrees from the keel)?
  7. I agree with you "save money know because the ship is expensive" and just in a couple years you look on it and regret that you didn't bought the planking upgrade... It will be a upgrade. and about the "expensive kit" I think our hobby actually is quite cheap. I have a friend that build and fly jet RC planes.....and if you have a car, motorbike, boat etc., that is more expensive! I don't think I will fill with balsa since some filler easily fix any problems on the first planking. And I use the first planking to learn:). On my Endeavour I actually overworked the first planking.
  8. I will use the supported wood as first layer but I most probably will replace the second layer (If DeAgostini don't surprise with really good wood...). The ship is already expensive but I think it deserves better wood (even of the cost). It will probably be Castello boxwood or swiss pear. Havn't seen these wood In real life so can't decide on the colour. But I want the colour to be similar to the oak colour on the 1:10 vasa. And I want to build with quality wood. I have replaced the wood on my Sherbourne with better Walnut and it is so much more fun to build. I must also find were to buy it. Sad the shipping rate is so expensive from the states.
  9. I totally agree with you😊. It is actually quite interesting about these "free spots" where you can sit down and build. I have mine on working evenings when the children are sleeping or on Saturday, Sunday mornings (2h) when the children are at Russian school or in Russian church (my wife are from Russia and it is important for us that they speak Russian as a mother language and get the culture from there). However, the interesting thing is the question I always got on work and that is "how do you have time over to sit down and build?" The anwere is easy. I very seldom just sit down and look at that thing that is called TV screen.... Some of the people that ask are in same family situation as me but they "burn" there free time in front of Netflix and etc....
  10. Don't worry Tony I must build Sherborne first since there is a lot of skills I want to learn and use on vasa. But sometimes it is low progress since I like to build plastic kits also. And then ofc the life with 3 girls at home. Wife, and two small at 2.5 and 5 years old. That take some time also... I am about to cut out the gun ports and I will post a update when they are finished.
  11. Thank you Mr Pucko and no, I have not got the March shipment yet. Have to paint figures and continue on my Sherbourne while waiting. Danny, I am not so much thinking on the rigging instructions since I probable will use Vasa 2 for that if it arrives in near future (i hope..). This is Freds Hockers answer on he issue: "Hej Jörgen, The current status is the same as it was about a year ago. I have text and illustrations ready t go, but the Swedish state system requires expenditures this large (layout, printing and distribution) to go out for tender, and our tendering department has been having a problem formulating the terms. I had the latest in a long series of meetings on this last week, not sure when this will move forward. Once the tender is out (April???), it will take about three months to complete the bidding process to select a publisher, and then about six months to produce the book. I will let everyone know once we have a publisher. At least on this schedule, the book should be out before the DeAgostini kit gets to the rigging stage! Fred" Hubac, I don´t know anything about the carving on the 1:10 Vasa but use this link and register. Then can you ask Fred Hocker about it http://warshipvasa.freeforums.net/
  12. Hello WoW goblin eddie😊 So far it is a very good kit. I also have billing vasa so I can compare the details and they don't play in the same league. Highly recommended.
  13. Thank you Hubac 😊. I have that book and I also just bought the Vasa 1. The DeAgostini paint instructions is not so good in my opinion so I follow the photos on the 1:10 Vasa model. An even better place to find photos is here: https://digitaltmuseum.se/search/?context=photograph&aq=text%3A"vasa"%2C"modell" owner%3A"S-SMM-VM"&o=0&n=224
  14. Hello again Here is the finished national coat of arm. I am really happy about it and I think it better than the first one I did. And here is a idea how the real size is. Really difficult to paint all the small details. This is how far I am on the ship itself. I must give the advise to other people that might to build this ship and this is to wait to glue all the frames to the gun supports until all of the parts for the upper false deck has arrived. I ended up in a situation were the frames didn't fit the precuts in the false decks. So I had to bend the frames lose and refit them. Now must I wait for other deck parts to arrive so over to paint more figures.
  15. I think the gold will be brighter but I think you lose the deep and the "mirror" effect. But I haven't tryed it. I didn't know that about red base for gold leaf. Interesting