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About steamschooner

  • Birthday 10/14/1952

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Western Washington
  • Interests
    West coast steamschooners, Tugs, local craft, turn of century vessels

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  1. Does anyone have any info on this kit supplier? Are they still active? There is a web site but contacting by phone has been a issue. Thanks for any info
  2. Bill, The melting pot I ordered on line, there are a number of places that sell them. The Contenti Company for one. The centrifugal, A friend in Portland knew of a bare bones used one which I bought. I added the crucible and had a old washing machine tub to put it in. If I start using higher temp metals I will add a lid for safety. I think most large Jewelry making supply places will carry melt pots and centrifigals. The Cerro Cast that I use I bought from a Foundry supply in Portland Oregon. The same place I got the crucible. The vulcanizing rubber, both kinds I purchased from the Contenti Co. Thanks Tom. A big learning curve on this one.
  3. Thank's druxey, I am happy with my results and know I can make more as needed. Here is the one for my " John Cudahy " all colored up and with a ruler.
  4. Awhile back I decided I wanted to replace the left handed propeller on my " John Cudahy " project with a right handed prop. So I carved a four blade right hand propeller. Then I thought I might as well see if I could cast some extras. Starting with some vulcanizing rubber and a round mold frame I added a bottom layer of red vulcanizing rubber. I than pressed the master pattern into the rubber as deep as I could and added rubber under the blades. To create a parting line around the edge of all four blades.The prop and rubber was than cooked to harden it up. Once the bottom was done I used a liquid room temp vulcanizing rubber and poured it over the bottom half. It needed several days to set up at which time I cut the softer upper layer in half and removed the master pattern. I had included four position pegs in the mold so it can only be reassembled one way. To mount the mold in the centrifugal I cut two plywood disks just slightly larger than the mold. one for the back side and one with a hole that lined up with the fill hole in the mold. using four quick clamps the mold was mounted in the centrifugal's cradle and lined up with the crucible. In the melt pot I heated up some Cerro Cast alloy to use in the mold. When things were ready I spooned in some liquid cerro cast into the crucible and pulled the pin.Stood back and let it spin. The first few try's showed a couple of kinks which were taken care of.I ended up making four propellers which I can use for other projects. Using some files I cleaned up the flash and did a little more shaping. Once I was happy with it I sandblasted the whole propeller. This was my first time trying to cast a propeller and after tweeking the mold a little I am getting good throws each time.
  5. Hello John, Welcome to MSW I live up the Willapa Valley about an hour drive from you. Not wet here at the moment.
  6. Rob, Here is a model of a pinky that I built many years ago. It's dirty and needs to be rerigged. It was one of my very early scratch builds. I copied the plans out of the book: American Sailing Ships their plans and history by Charles Davis.
  7. Fred, Here is another picture of the same type deck gear just different angle of view.
  8. Fred, I don't remember what book this photo was in, or a time frame. I am including the caption. Welcome to MSW.
  9. I needed some deck cleats for my current build. There are many ways of making cleats this is just the method I used. I started by carving a master pattern and in this case out of wood. Once the size of the master was determined I could size the mold former. I use sections of copper pipe of various lengths and diameters. The basic setup is shown in the drawing. I start with a layer of vulcanizing rubber on the bottom. I than locate and install a couple of short pieces of copper wire to use as vents. Insert the master pattern and fill mold former the rest of the way up. Next set is to place filled mold former between a couple of metal plates with a C clamp for the oven baking time. Once it has been baked and cooled down I take a razor knife and cut a parting line in the mold to release the master pattern. The mold is placed back in the mold former and a small amount of casting metal is poured on top. I than press a flat wood or metal plate on top and press the metal into the mold. That is why you need vents so the trapped air has some place to go. Let the filled mold cool for a few, taking them out to quickly can damage the parts. I than like to lightly sand blast the parts to give them some texture and to dull them down some. Once that is done a coat of india ink is applied and let dry for awhile than rubbed down to get any extra ink removed. I kept the base of the cleat thick on purpose so that I had a handle to hold them. I than used a saw to cut off the base to the thickness I wanted. As can be seen in last photo the master pattern does not allways come out in one piece.
  10. John, These two scans come out of the book, Steam Coasters and Short Sea Traders by Waine & Fenton. The Pamela is mentioned in the book but no photos or drawings. The scans seem to match up with the deck arrangements with the photos you posted. Other than the foremast is set back some. Hope these might be of some help.
  11. You mean like this, Nils
  12. I needed to make a half dozen fire buckets for my project so I took a few photo's to show how I made mine. Once I had a size in mind I made a pattern and cut some thin brass to that shape. I than tinned opposite ends and opposite sides. So that when the brass is rolled into a cone the tinned ends will be face to face. I used a tapered dowel to help form the rolled cone shape for soldering. The rolled forms are a little long/tall for triming down later. Using a block of wood with a hole drilled just shy of bucket height and snug at the top i than placed a ring of wire around top of bucket and soldered in place. using the tapered dowel while soldering ring in to place helped line things up. Should come out looking like this. the next step was to cut out small disc of brass that was just a bit bigger than the bottom of bucket. with the disc on the end of the tapered dowel a bucket was lower over the end and pushed the disc to the bottom of bucket but not clear thur. Just enough of a lip to solder it in place, Some clean up with files and paper is next. Lastly some paint and install handle. Not sure when it became the practice of painting fire buckets red or if there ever was a rule to do so.
  13. Sure John, Post this AFTER I just finished making my two small boats. But you can bet that I will follow you along on this.
  14. This is a interesting read on the first sidewheel steamer on the west coast. arrived in 1836 and operated on the west coast for more than 50 years. ISBN 0-920663-20-6
  15. Being from the left coast and interested in work boats my vote would be for something like the C.H. Thayer or Wawona, lumber schooners that have alot of documentation. The steam schooner Wapama would be a good subject as well, as their is allready a good set of plans available. POB or solid hull for cost reasons (thinking POF kits would cost more) Scale should keep the finished kit some what small ( 10-30" ) in length. Price in the 200-500 dollar range. Build time does not matter(To me ) it is not a race.