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About *Hans*

  • Birthday 10/23/1962

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    Dordrecht, Netherlands

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  1. I gave this a like as I do agree. The same story goes for lead which is a metal very good at "catching" radiation. In the older wooden ships lead was used as ballast and this lead is still radiation free. It is worth at least ten times the worth of the modern lead. Many old and archaeologically interesting ships have been teared apart just for this lead.
  2. There are many members here who have given all the comments a "like" - and I do understand why. But although all the post interest me very much I am not giving any likes to any of these posts in this topic - because I don't like it at all. Money rules the world - yes - but I just find this disgusting.
  3. As I am working on three ships at the same time it all goes a bit slower (beginning of May we have a little show with ancient sailing ships in Rotterdam, NL, and I want to show four vessels which all have to be in some state of finish). The Trireme fits very good to this show - as she has one of her sails attached:
  4. I drill four small holes on the four corners (about 0,6 - 0,8 mm) - in such a way that the hole is complete inside the outlines of the gun port. Then cut out with a sharp knife and as last thing with a square file make the corners square
  5. We can start a nice discussion about this - as a parallelogram shaped gun port where the turning axle of the hinges are not in the same line simply cannot be opened. Two hinges beside each other need the same axle line to function properly. And if you mount the hinges under a specific angle so there turning lines are the same then the form of the port gives trouble to open. The vertical sides of a gun port were vertical - that's correct, but regarding the horizontal lines: the lower one could follow the deck (but this was surely not always the case), but the upper one was always under a 90ยบ angle with the vertical sides. So a square gun port is very original. Attached a photo of the Vasa (Wasa) which is the excisting proof of how it was done (this is the original ship from 1628 - same time as the Batavia). Due to the back light the form of the gun ports is clearly visible.
  6. Made them with my cell phone, so not the highest quality - sorry. Backside of the shield. These are in fact 2-cent coins - made convex - tinned and then soldered a small brass handle onto it. On the ship itself I have placed poles - with a sharp end sanded to it: And the shield can be put with its handle over this pole: It looks a bit fuzzy due to the glue. Normally it should not be glued of course, but I don't want them to get lost during building etc.
  7. Modelling is a lot of standing for me (I don't like sitting and doing things). Standing in the kitchen, doing some art work: This is going to be the main sail:
  8. To get a free coffee? I'll keep the voucher!
  9. Wow, just walked by your little "museum" and thought by my self - why not go inside to have a look at all the nautical stuff? I liked it!
  10. Nice pics Steve! Somehow familiar to me, although I've never visited her... :-)
  11. Hey Robin, Didn't have a look at your Bireme build until now. Looking good. I made a Bireme as well for my son (ho studied archeology) and than started a scratch trireme in the same scale. This turned out to be a huge thing of about 1 meter length. Picture of how far I am now:
  12. I sanded a sharp tip at the side-end of small piece of oak 3x3 mm (roughly 1 cm length) and glued this pole onto the deck. The shield has a handle on the backside and this fits onto the sharp end of the pole. In this way the shields hang loose on the side, so they could easily be taken of when needed during battle. In my case the shields are glued onto the pole so they stay in place. But mind you: there is no evidence whatsoever that this was done in real. It is just my imagination that this could have been done in this way (and it gives a nice extra to the model).
  13. Beside all the other projects I am doing I just did something on the Trireme as well (again). The shields (60 of them) have been made, painted and given a personal touch. One side of the ship is now done in the way as described earlier in this topic.
  14. Which is in fact the best way to do it. After knotting the first ratline just put the planks on top of it - correct the level when necessary and knot the second ratline. Correct the level again by tapping the knot a bit down or up - white glue over it (you can do this in the end as well) and proceed to the top. Another fact almost no one knows: due to shrinking of the rope the ratlines always had some more length than the space between the shrouds, they always hung a bit loose. So don't knot them as tight as possible - and the hourglass effect will not occur as well. Nowadays, with other qualities of rope it is different of course.