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About *Hans*

  • Birthday 10/23/1962

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    Dordrecht, Netherlands

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  1. The Dutch shipbuilders in the 17th century knew very well how to bend wood. You need in fact three things: water to soften the cell membranes (which in fact is cellulose which dissolves in the water) - then heat to make these cell membranes flexible - and then some force to bend and twist the wood. Steam has both the water and the heat - whereas a heat gun only has heat and uses the existing water still in the wood. For both methods you need force to bend it. In Holland wood was often still quite wet - because it was transported via rivers and canals to the sawing mills, and also stored in water. When a plank was ready in shape to be bend it was stuck into a special construction at one end - then with reed a fire was made under the plank, and with weight (stones) and forcing clamps the plank was bend into the right form. I have a special device to bend planks. It works with a soldering iron and a curved head. You need to make the small strips of wood wet (and it does not have to be soaking wet - for basswood and walnut 30 minutes in water are more than enough) - put it onto the head of the hot plank bender and force it slowly into its needed shape. Everyone has his (or her) own method, but this one works very good for me.
  2. I just can say "Wow"
  3. I gave this a like as I do agree. The same story goes for lead which is a metal very good at "catching" radiation. In the older wooden ships lead was used as ballast and this lead is still radiation free. It is worth at least ten times the worth of the modern lead. Many old and archaeologically interesting ships have been teared apart just for this lead.
  4. There are many members here who have given all the comments a "like" - and I do understand why. But although all the post interest me very much I am not giving any likes to any of these posts in this topic - because I don't like it at all. Money rules the world - yes - but I just find this disgusting.
  5. I drill four small holes on the four corners (about 0,6 - 0,8 mm) - in such a way that the hole is complete inside the outlines of the gun port. Then cut out with a sharp knife and as last thing with a square file make the corners square
  6. We can start a nice discussion about this - as a parallelogram shaped gun port where the turning axle of the hinges are not in the same line simply cannot be opened. Two hinges beside each other need the same axle line to function properly. And if you mount the hinges under a specific angle so there turning lines are the same then the form of the port gives trouble to open. The vertical sides of a gun port were vertical - that's correct, but regarding the horizontal lines: the lower one could follow the deck (but this was surely not always the case), but the upper one was always under a 90ยบ angle with the vertical sides. So a square gun port is very original. Attached a photo of the Vasa (Wasa) which is the excisting proof of how it was done (this is the original ship from 1628 - same time as the Batavia). Due to the back light the form of the gun ports is clearly visible.
  7. To get a free coffee? I'll keep the voucher!
  8. Wow, just walked by your little "museum" and thought by my self - why not go inside to have a look at all the nautical stuff? I liked it!
  9. Nice pics Steve! Somehow familiar to me, although I've never visited her... :-)
  10. Which is in fact the best way to do it. After knotting the first ratline just put the planks on top of it - correct the level when necessary and knot the second ratline. Correct the level again by tapping the knot a bit down or up - white glue over it (you can do this in the end as well) and proceed to the top. Another fact almost no one knows: due to shrinking of the rope the ratlines always had some more length than the space between the shrouds, they always hung a bit loose. So don't knot them as tight as possible - and the hourglass effect will not occur as well. Nowadays, with other qualities of rope it is different of course.
  11. The most simple solutions are often the hardest ones to find...
  12. This is always a nice (and famous) painting:
  13. It is such a simple and easy solution for making the ratlines! (and sorry to say John - I did it in exact the same way as you did - already some years ago for my Batavia ) And you say you are a novice - but seeing your pictures I don't believe you... Regarding the space between the ratlines we've had some discussions here the last years. Was it a step of roughly 30 cm - or 1ft. (and many steps to get up) or was it more onto a step of 50 cm (1,5 ft.) The Dutch were known as a bit scrooge, frugal (well, let's say economical) and bigger steps meant quicker on top, so less time wasted - and less rope! So I go for the 50 cm. If you use a 6 mm plank (how many inches is that?) on a scale of 1 to 72 (which the Batavia kit is) you end up with a distance of 43 mm. Including the knot and correction in level to my opinion you are pretty good in line. If you have a 1:50 model take 8 mm planks, and if you are building at a 1:100 scale a 4 mm plank is the right one.
  14. This sure makes me smile! In fact the frames of the hull are laser cut parts which where loose in the box. Due to this specific issue John reported me I have changed the design of the laser cut parts. They now are still in the wooden base plate and have to be removed out of it by cutting two small bridges of 2 mm wood. Thus the risk of damage during transport is minimized to the max.