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Everything posted by *Hans*

  1. Dordreght 2

    Marcus, Both build on the Peperwerf in Amsterdam - and maybe both build by the same master. There are differences however: In 1618 the VOC standards described a vessel of max 150 feet length (Amsterdamse voet - 28,3 cm), so overall length of the Hull almost 43 meter Somewhere in 1625 these standards where changed and the vessels could now have a length of max 160 feet - w.i. somewhat more then 45 meter No great difference, but some there was. When I started to build the Batavia as model kit I did not yet have permission from the Batavia wharf to bring it on the market. So I called the prototype the Dordrecht, gave her a new stern and started to build. The photos show the result. I have already started a new build of a (second) Dordrecht, somewhat shorter, little change in decks etc. to make her as a building kit.
  2. From the album Dordreght VOC Retour ship 1618

    150 Feet long - which is roughly 43 meters. Build in 1618 - in 1619 one of the ships exploring the Australian coast - in 1628 part of the convoy together with the Batavia - burned and lost with her complete cargo in 1630 due to heavy fire (uncontrollable due to the brandy which was part of the cargo).

    © www.kolderstok.com

  3. From the album Dordreght VOC Retour ship 1618

    17th Century East India Man (retour ship) used for trading spices and goods between Holland and the Dutch East Idies. She was the vessel of Skipper Francisco Pelsaert before he became Skipper of the Batavia

    © www.kolderstok.com

  4. From the album Dordreght VOC Retour ship 1618

    The stern shows the maiden of Dordrecht. This statue from 1616 is still at the Groothoofdspoort in the City of Dordrecht
  5. During the Voyage of the Batavia to East India Francisco Pelsaert shipwrecked on the Australian coast. Before he was Skipper on the Batavia he was in charge of a sister ship - the Dordreght. The Dordreght was built in 1618 on the Peperwerf in Amsterdam. She was about 150 Amsterdam feet w.i. roughly 43 meters. On her stern was the maiden of Dordrecht, and this statue (from 1616) is still on the Groothoofdspoort of the city of Dordrecht. Fully scratch build, but I am planning to make a model kit of her in future.
  6. The Dutch shipbuilders in the 17th century knew very well how to bend wood. You need in fact three things: water to soften the cell membranes (which in fact is cellulose which dissolves in the water) - then heat to make these cell membranes flexible - and then some force to bend and twist the wood. Steam has both the water and the heat - whereas a heat gun only has heat and uses the existing water still in the wood. For both methods you need force to bend it. In Holland wood was often still quite wet - because it was transported via rivers and canals to the sawing mills, and also stored in water. When a plank was ready in shape to be bend it was stuck into a special construction at one end - then with reed a fire was made under the plank, and with weight (stones) and forcing clamps the plank was bend into the right form. I have a special device to bend planks. It works with a soldering iron and a curved head. You need to make the small strips of wood wet (and it does not have to be soaking wet - for basswood and walnut 30 minutes in water are more than enough) - put it onto the head of the hot plank bender and force it slowly into its needed shape. Everyone has his (or her) own method, but this one works very good for me.
  7. Titanic first day under water

    I just can say "Wow"
  8. Dutch WWII shipwrecks 'dissappear'

    I gave this a like as I do agree. The same story goes for lead which is a metal very good at "catching" radiation. In the older wooden ships lead was used as ballast and this lead is still radiation free. It is worth at least ten times the worth of the modern lead. Many old and archaeologically interesting ships have been teared apart just for this lead.
  9. Dutch WWII shipwrecks 'dissappear'

    There are many members here who have given all the comments a "like" - and I do understand why. But although all the post interest me very much I am not giving any likes to any of these posts in this topic - because I don't like it at all. Money rules the world - yes - but I just find this disgusting.
  10. I drill four small holes on the four corners (about 0,6 - 0,8 mm) - in such a way that the hole is complete inside the outlines of the gun port. Then cut out with a sharp knife and as last thing with a square file make the corners square
  11. We can start a nice discussion about this - as a parallelogram shaped gun port where the turning axle of the hinges are not in the same line simply cannot be opened. Two hinges beside each other need the same axle line to function properly. And if you mount the hinges under a specific angle so there turning lines are the same then the form of the port gives trouble to open. The vertical sides of a gun port were vertical - that's correct, but regarding the horizontal lines: the lower one could follow the deck (but this was surely not always the case), but the upper one was always under a 90ยบ angle with the vertical sides. So a square gun port is very original. Attached a photo of the Vasa (Wasa) which is the excisting proof of how it was done (this is the original ship from 1628 - same time as the Batavia). Due to the back light the form of the gun ports is clearly visible.
  12. To get a free coffee? I'll keep the voucher!
  13. Wow, just walked by your little "museum" and thought by my self - why not go inside to have a look at all the nautical stuff? I liked it!
  14. Nice pics Steve! Somehow familiar to me, although I've never visited her... :-)
  15. Rat line tension tool

    Which is in fact the best way to do it. After knotting the first ratline just put the planks on top of it - correct the level when necessary and knot the second ratline. Correct the level again by tapping the knot a bit down or up - white glue over it (you can do this in the end as well) and proceed to the top. Another fact almost no one knows: due to shrinking of the rope the ratlines always had some more length than the space between the shrouds, they always hung a bit loose. So don't knot them as tight as possible - and the hourglass effect will not occur as well. Nowadays, with other qualities of rope it is different of course.
  16. Rat line tension tool

    The most simple solutions are often the hardest ones to find...
  17. Shardlow Dutch ship paintings

    This is always a nice (and famous) painting:
  18. Rat line tension tool

    It is such a simple and easy solution for making the ratlines! (and sorry to say John - I did it in exact the same way as you did - already some years ago for my Batavia ) And you say you are a novice - but seeing your pictures I don't believe you... Regarding the space between the ratlines we've had some discussions here the last years. Was it a step of roughly 30 cm - or 1ft. (and many steps to get up) or was it more onto a step of 50 cm (1,5 ft.) The Dutch were known as a bit scrooge, frugal (well, let's say economical) and bigger steps meant quicker on top, so less time wasted - and less rope! So I go for the 50 cm. If you use a 6 mm plank (how many inches is that?) on a scale of 1 to 72 (which the Batavia kit is) you end up with a distance of 43 mm. Including the knot and correction in level to my opinion you are pretty good in line. If you have a 1:50 model take 8 mm planks, and if you are building at a 1:100 scale a 4 mm plank is the right one.
  19. Small yacht (or pinas) on which Willem Jansz made the first landing on Australia in 1606 for the Dutch VOC