*Hans*

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Everything posted by *Hans*

  1. I gave this a like as I do agree. The same story goes for lead which is a metal very good at "catching" radiation. In the older wooden ships lead was used as ballast and this lead is still radiation free. It is worth at least ten times the worth of the modern lead. Many old and archaeologically interesting ships have been teared apart just for this lead.
  2. There are many members here who have given all the comments a "like" - and I do understand why. But although all the post interest me very much I am not giving any likes to any of these posts in this topic - because I don't like it at all. Money rules the world - yes - but I just find this disgusting.
  3. As I am working on three ships at the same time it all goes a bit slower (beginning of May we have a little show with ancient sailing ships in Rotterdam, NL, and I want to show four vessels which all have to be in some state of finish). The Trireme fits very good to this show - as she has one of her sails attached:
  4. After finishing my first scratch build - VOC Retourship Batavia - I will now start with something completely diffirent, a Greek Trireme. Trireme means literally three oars - three rows of oars placed above each other. For one of my sons, who is studying archeology and has a great interest in the ancient Greek culture I already made a Bireme - two oars. This one is in scale 1:35. The European modelbuilder Krick also has a Trireme in its program, so we decided to buy and built this one: But this is in scale 1:72 and built it will be about 51 cm long. About the same as the Bireme. So we decided to lay the kit aside and use the plans to upscale the thing to 1:35 scale - making it twice as big as the Bireme, but in the same scale. This means a model of over 1 meter (3 ft) and making everything yourself - keel - bulkheads - planking etc. Therefore this topic in the scratch-build section. First step to do was to upscale the plans, with my copier and some old fashioned carbonpaper: After that the jig saw and after sawing and fitting the first result:
  5. I drill four small holes on the four corners (about 0,6 - 0,8 mm) - in such a way that the hole is complete inside the outlines of the gun port. Then cut out with a sharp knife and as last thing with a square file make the corners square
  6. We can start a nice discussion about this - as a parallelogram shaped gun port where the turning axle of the hinges are not in the same line simply cannot be opened. Two hinges beside each other need the same axle line to function properly. And if you mount the hinges under a specific angle so there turning lines are the same then the form of the port gives trouble to open. The vertical sides of a gun port were vertical - that's correct, but regarding the horizontal lines: the lower one could follow the deck (but this was surely not always the case), but the upper one was always under a 90┬║ angle with the vertical sides. So a square gun port is very original. Attached a photo of the Vasa (Wasa) which is the excisting proof of how it was done (this is the original ship from 1628 - same time as the Batavia). Due to the back light the form of the gun ports is clearly visible.
  7. Made them with my cell phone, so not the highest quality - sorry. Backside of the shield. These are in fact 2-cent coins - made convex - tinned and then soldered a small brass handle onto it. On the ship itself I have placed poles - with a sharp end sanded to it: And the shield can be put with its handle over this pole: It looks a bit fuzzy due to the glue. Normally it should not be glued of course, but I don't want them to get lost during building etc.
  8. Modelling is a lot of standing for me (I don't like sitting and doing things). Standing in the kitchen, doing some art work: This is going to be the main sail:
  9. To get a free coffee? I'll keep the voucher!
  10. Wow, just walked by your little "museum" and thought by my self - why not go inside to have a look at all the nautical stuff? I liked it!
  11. Nice pics Steve! Somehow familiar to me, although I've never visited her... :-)
  12. Hey Robin, Didn't have a look at your Bireme build until now. Looking good. I made a Bireme as well for my son (ho studied archeology) and than started a scratch trireme in the same scale. This turned out to be a huge thing of about 1 meter length. Picture of how far I am now:
  13. I sanded a sharp tip at the side-end of small piece of oak 3x3 mm (roughly 1 cm length) and glued this pole onto the deck. The shield has a handle on the backside and this fits onto the sharp end of the pole. In this way the shields hang loose on the side, so they could easily be taken of when needed during battle. In my case the shields are glued onto the pole so they stay in place. But mind you: there is no evidence whatsoever that this was done in real. It is just my imagination that this could have been done in this way (and it gives a nice extra to the model).
  14. Beside all the other projects I am doing I just did something on the Trireme as well (again). The shields (60 of them) have been made, painted and given a personal touch. One side of the ship is now done in the way as described earlier in this topic.
  15. Hello everybody My name is Hans van Nieuwkoop - on MSW known as *Hans* Since end of last year I have been busy in working out my scratch build Batavia into a wooden model kit. This is now available - please have a look at our website www.kolderstok-models.com The site opens in Dutch - but by clicking on the UK-flag it is in English. Btw: Kolderstok is the Dutch word for whipstaff We are planning to make several models - now available: Dutch East Indiamen "Batavia" - in near future: East Indiamen "Dordrecht" - 2016: Yacht "Duyfken" - 2016 and on: 17th century Statenjacht, Zeven Provinci├źn, ... Kits are made in small series - so please send me a PM if you want to buy one, so I can inform you if it is availabe. I can ship to most countries in the world, can mention prices including postal costs but cannot inform you how much duty you have to pay. Next days I will post some photos about the box and its contents. Please send me a pm if you are interested!
  16. Which is in fact the best way to do it. After knotting the first ratline just put the planks on top of it - correct the level when necessary and knot the second ratline. Correct the level again by tapping the knot a bit down or up - white glue over it (you can do this in the end as well) and proceed to the top. Another fact almost no one knows: due to shrinking of the rope the ratlines always had some more length than the space between the shrouds, they always hung a bit loose. So don't knot them as tight as possible - and the hourglass effect will not occur as well. Nowadays, with other qualities of rope it is different of course.
  17. The most simple solutions are often the hardest ones to find...
  18. This is always a nice (and famous) painting:
  19. It is such a simple and easy solution for making the ratlines! (and sorry to say John - I did it in exact the same way as you did - already some years ago for my Batavia ) And you say you are a novice - but seeing your pictures I don't believe you... Regarding the space between the ratlines we've had some discussions here the last years. Was it a step of roughly 30 cm - or 1ft. (and many steps to get up) or was it more onto a step of 50 cm (1,5 ft.) The Dutch were known as a bit scrooge, frugal (well, let's say economical) and bigger steps meant quicker on top, so less time wasted - and less rope! So I go for the 50 cm. If you use a 6 mm plank (how many inches is that?) on a scale of 1 to 72 (which the Batavia kit is) you end up with a distance of 43 mm. Including the knot and correction in level to my opinion you are pretty good in line. If you have a 1:50 model take 8 mm planks, and if you are building at a 1:100 scale a 4 mm plank is the right one.
  20. This sure makes me smile! In fact the frames of the hull are laser cut parts which where loose in the box. Due to this specific issue John reported me I have changed the design of the laser cut parts. They now are still in the wooden base plate and have to be removed out of it by cutting two small bridges of 2 mm wood. Thus the risk of damage during transport is minimized to the max.
  21. For everyone in the USA and Canada: Kolderstok kits are now available via Castyouranchorhobby.com: http://castyouranchorhobby.com/Category/Kolderstok They offer a nice rebate on the kits. First deliveries should be towards the end of this year.
  22. Vivian (and all the others), Thank you for all the likes. This topic is a bit messed up due to the fact I am currently building three ships at the same time...
  23. It has indeed been a while since your last post. Nice to see you back :-)