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About jack.aubrey

  • Birthday 07/11/1949

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    Cinisello B. - Milan (Italy)

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  1. Thursday 17 October 2018 At this point it's mandatory to finish to install the second planking on the external hull and, after, go further with new activities. But, before this, I should finish to refine the ground with a final and accurate sanding of the external hull. Unfortunately I do not want to dust everything and this leads me to delay. So I invented alternative tasks waiting for this will manifests itself. Building of the ordnance trucks: job of complete rest even if each truck is composed of 9 individual pieces that must be assembled to resemble the finished piece. All the pieces, including the wheels, are obtained from a 2mm walnut board, laser cut. Very well done, it didn't cause any problems. For the moment, I have prepared all the guns planned for the main deck, although I will need only two in a short time. 01 Ragusian Carrack/16102018/IMG_20181016_170402.jpg 02 Ragusian Carrack/16102018/IMG_20181016_170300.jpg 03 Ragusian Carrack/16102018/IMG_20181016_170251.jpg Then I started to prepare the beams for the next deck, immediately above the main deck. I installed the first two, not disturbing any future activity to see the result. Under this deck there will be two guns. They must be installed before building the deck itself. Plus a ladder and a supporting column between the first two beams. The idea is to have all the pieces ready for when it will be time to install the deck. 04 Ragusian Carrack/16102018/IMG_20181013_174404.jpg 05 Ragusian Carrack/16102018/IMG_20181015_165535.jpg 06 Ragusian Carrack/16102018/IMG_20181013_174503.jpg But now there are no more excuses: the next session will be dedicated to finishing the surface of the outer hull and then apply the second planking. Only at the end I will be able to resume work on the new deck. See you soon, Jack.
  2. Steven, your answer seems pretty reasonnable. The artillery of that period was still rather primitive and it is possible that the builders were conservative in sizing these elements so as not to weaken the structure of the ship too much. Excellent contribution. Thanks, Jack.
  3. Tuesday, October 9th 2018 Another short update . . Opening the gunports . . thank goodness they are few because it is a pretty boring activity. I strictly followed the dimensions of the drawing and they are 7mm. per side. Translated in full scale we are talking about openings of about 45 cm per side. Do not you feel them a little small? 01 Ragusian Carrack/09102018/IMG_20181009_175612.jpg The same ports seen from the inside. Here the work has been longer because the stays and stanchions had to be applied before. I applied a tiny coat of wood oil to see the chromatic effect of the various wood essences. 02 Ragusian Carrack/09102018/IMG_20181009_175551.jpg Even here I could not resist and I gave a coat of oil . . the wood color immediately appeared. 03 Ragusian Carrack/09102018/IMG_20181009_175559.jpg See you next time, Jack.
  4. Friday 5 October 2018 With this new post in practice I've finished working on the foredeck . . . at least until I'll finish the second planking on the whole hull. Only then I will be able to resume works in this area and complete it. Below are some pictures of the work done. 01 Ragusian Carrack/05102018/IMG_20181005_113703.jpg 02 Ragusian Carrack/05102018/IMG_20181005_113727.jpg 03 Ragusian Carrack/05102018/IMG_20181005_113733.jpg Small columns made entirely by hand, and they are all of different height, although very little. 04 Ragusian Carrack/05102018/IMG_20181005_113740.jpg 05 Ragusian Carrack/05102018/IMG_20181005_113746.jpg Now other tasks await me . . I'm spoiled for choice. Need a planning weekend and then I'll restart again next week. Greetings, Jack.Aubrey
  5. Friday 28 September 2018 After the sadness for the great fire in Calci, luckily without any physical consequences for me (in this period I do not live there) and even for my house (apart from 1cm. of ash deposited on the terrace and shutters) I resumed work on the Carrack. A first attempt of the second planking, in the area of the forecastle . . 01 Ragusian Carrack/28092018/IMG_20180927_181334.jpg The lower supports of the foredeck . . 02 Ragusian Carrack/28092018/IMG_20180927_181342.jpg Next activities will still be focused on the foredeck, where there is much to do and helps me to get familiar with the model . . 03 Ragusian Carrack/28092018/IMG_20180928_123951.jpg Below three images of how the model looks like now . . including one of my four feline assistants. 04 Ragusian Carrack/28092018/IMG_20180928_124046.jpg 05 Ragusian Carrack/28092018/IMG_20180928_124054.jpg 06 Ragusian Carrack/28092018/IMG_20180928_124105.jpg See you next time, Jack.
  6. In fact, two days later, the damages seem huge: a thousand hectares of forest, vineyards and olive groves went up in smoke. Yesterday another fire broke out about twenty kilometers from Calci, still in the Monti Pisani area. It seems that it will take at least 5 years to restore the destroyed olive groves and vineyards and even 15 for the wooded area. Not to forget homes, animals and flora and fauna biodiversity that will disappear. When I'll come back there in early December it will be a sad day.
  7. Tuesday 25 September 2018 Last night, around 10:00 pm a fire broke out, most probably of malicious origin, on Monte Serra, north-east of Pisa, near the small town of Calci. The damages are huge and incalculable, it seems there are 700 people evacuated and the fire is still ongoing, thanks to a strong wind that hinders the operations of firefighters and firefighting aircrafts. Calci is the country in Tuscany where I spent 9 months, before returning to Cinisello (Milan) at the end of June and where I plan to return the month of December to spend there winter and spring. It is the place where I started to build the Ragusian Carrack, the subject of this topic. What a mess . . I have no words 01 IncendioDiCalci/incendio-monte-serra-4-1-640x564.jpg 02 IncendioDiCalci/incendio-monte-serra-27-640x480.jpg 03 IncendioDiCalci/2060_8f76e9f43f7733733dcef7e67e4997c0.JPG 04 IncendioDiCalci/IMG-20180925-WA0030.jpg 05 IncendioDiCalci/5b69b1be20c11.jpeg
  8. Saturday, September 22, 2018 Small update . . 01 Ragusian Carrack/22092018/IMG_20180922_082537.jpg 02 Ragusian Carrack/22092018/IMG_20180922_082552.jpg
  9. Tuesday 18 September 2018 Finally, after months of total inactivity, on Monday, September 17 I started working again . . The work is now aimed to prepare the hull to receive the second planking: there is to perform the final sanding of the hull but also many other minor tasks that must be started before applying the second layer. I therefore focused on the prow and the foredeck, where there is still much to do. To begin I refined all the details left rough on the foredeck. 01 Ragusian Carrack/19092018/IMG_20180919_102258.jpg Then I started to prepare the grating at prow by assembling the elements supplied in the Marisstella kit and then joining them together to form a surface suitable for the required shape. In the picture below the composite of the grating and the template that will serve to shape the finished piece. 02 Ragusian Carrack/19092018/IMG_20180919_102221.jpg Thursday 20 September 2018 Having in mind the latest photos of the central area of the model I took months ago, it is clear that the new details added and visible in the picture below should be applied now, so as to cover them with the second planking. The pre-cut pieces have been modified to adapt them to my model. 01 Ragusian Carrack/20092018/IMG_20180920_162148.jpg I then finished the prow grating, shaped appropriately and finally I fixed it in position . . but there is still a lot to do, so the situation here is still evolving. 02 Ragusian Carrack/20092018/IMG_20180920_162310.jpg 03 Ragusian Carrack/20092018/IMG_20180920_162136.jpg 04 Ragusian Carrack/20092018/IMG_20180920_162121.jpg That's all for now, though not much. See you next time, Jack.Aubrey.
  10. Friday, September 14th, 2018 Hi friends, After a long absence from this forum and shipmodeling in general I'm now, finally, free to restart the "Ragusian Carrack" shipyard. I stopped shipmodelling beginning of May and I'm trying first to define a preliminary activity plan: I've forgotten a lot of issues and so I need to replan the next task of the project. As soon as possible I'll resume posting on this forum. Regards, Jack.Aubrey
  11. Hi Odival The ANCRE plans and other materials I researched do not show the lower decks for this class of ships. But at the National Maritime Museum of Greewich I found some plans that were taken by the Royal Navy after capture of some of them. In these plans there are somo additional details such as dispositions of the lower decks, as you ask. I attach some images of these plans, that you may request to NMM, where you can see these details, so you can evaluate if this is what you need of not. Regards, Jack.
  12. Thursday 3 May 2018 In view of my return to Cinisello Balsamo, planned for Friday, May 11th after eight months in Tuscany, I packed all the necessary material for the Ragusian Carrack I have here in Pisa. But, as a old italian proverb says, "the devil makes the pots but not the lids", and so a unplanned problem was born that forces me to postpone my return, probably until mid-June. Consequence of this is that I am forced to keep the shipyard closed for longer than I thought, so do not expect further progress on this log for some time, at least until the second half of June. Best regards, Jack.
  13. Friday, April 16th, 2018 Today, let's try to complete the speech interrupted a few days ago, relating to the removal of the gaps between a plank and its adjacents without using putty. Once the preliminary tasks have been completed (glueing strip segments, fixing them with diluted vinyl glue, etc.), we proceed by sanding these sections to level them to the other parts of the hull. It is advisable to work gently, avoiding to use coarse grained sandpaper. It is important to use only sanding blocks, avoiding, until the desired result is achieved, the use of abrasive paper only with hands. The first two images show the work almost finished when this technique is used to eliminate the differences in height between one strip and another: depending on the height of the gap, the piece will be more or less thin, so that in some points the signs made with a pencil, to delimit the area, may appear, while in others not. 01 Ragusian Carrack/13042018/IMG_20180413_183457.jpg 02 Ragusian Carrack/13042018/IMG_20180413_183512.jpg In the next two images, instead, we see the results when using this technique to fill in depressions on the hull. Here the papersanding technique, although very similar, is slightly different but with a little practice and intuition you may easily learn how to proceed. 03 Ragusian Carrack/13042018/IMG_20180413_183432.jpg 04 Ragusian Carrack/13042018/IMG_20180413_183520.jpg Finally, an image from a particular perspectiv where it is possible to notice how the two slight depressions that were present are now disappeared. This is appreciable by observing the correct curve on the hull. 05 Ragusian Carrack/13042018/IMG_20180413_183540.jpg Finally, as last step, a new coat of diluted vinyl glue over the areas where we worked on and, when the mixture of water and glue will be perfectly dry, a light refinement with very thin abrasive paper to completely smooth the whole. To speed up drying and waste little time, you can use a hair dryer. Now that we have also fixed these problems we can move on to the final hull sanding which from now on becomes an ordinary matter, made of patience and sawdust. In some cases we could fill some small grooves in certain points of the hull with putty, but usually, having to apply above a second planking, this operation is not strictly necessary and could even be bypassed. A friendly goodbye, Jack.Aubrey.
  14. Monday 9 April 2014 Now it's a matter to apply the filler. Personally I try to avoid using putty and I prefer to use wooden strips as a filler. For this purpose I have a supply of sweetwood strips of 0.5mm thickness which is usually good for almost all cases. The strips must be the same height as those used for the planking. I cutout a piece of strip with the length of the area to be filled, then, using the cyanoacrylate glue I paste it in place and move to another area until the operation is completed on all the previously highlighted parts. At this point, I cover these areas with a coat of vinyl glue diluted 50% with water. In this way I soak the strip and fill all the outer edges with glue. This operation adequately fixes the batten to the hull even in the most remote areas ensuring a bonding that covers 100% of the area ensuring a perfect seal. Images #03 and #04 show these strips applied and before the next sanding phase. I let, for safety, spend a day to dry and then I move to smooth the part of the wood strip in excess. At this point the problem is 99% solved. Once polished with ever finer abrasive paper, I proceed to stabilize the area by reapplying a second coat of diluted vinyl followed a few hours after by a slight smoothing with a fairly fine abrasive paper. In the most difficult cases only at this point I consider the application of a small amount of putty. 03 Ragusian Carrack/07042018/IMG_20180407_115552.jpg 04 Ragusian Carrack/07042018/IMG_20180407_115602.jpg PS: This technique can also be used to fix areas of the hull where there are slight dips. Photos #05 and #06 show two of these areas in the bow area in which I have implemented this technique. I think, instead, that for the bumps there is only one solution: prevent their formation by checking well the course of the plank before applying it. 05 Ragusian Carrack/07042018/IMG_20180407_115608.jpg 06 Ragusian Carrack/07042018/IMG_20180407_115625.jpg In the next message I will go on to show the result obtained when processing is finished.
  15. Sunday 8 April 2014 Since I do not expect to have many things to show soon, I decided to discuss some aspects related to the finishing of the first planking, task mandatory to prepare the hull to receive the second planking. I remember that this second layer will be applied using strips from veneer of cherry wood. Now let's clarify better: once you have applied all the strips of the first planking, you need to smooth the hull because you will discover a lot of imperfections, some of them of very little importance but also some problems that could affect the subsequent tasks and the expected results. Usually in this phase we'll work with sandpaper and sanding blocks to smooth and level the entire hull. In the worst cases using even some kind of putty. One of the problems that occurs very often is the fact that two or more planks, placed side by side, are not properly aligned assuming the form of steps. They may be originated for different reasons, for example for a different thickness of the strips, maybe only for few tenths, or a curvature slightly different and so on. Regardless of the reason, during the finishing phase after the planking, you must resolve these aspects to get at the end a perfectly smooth hull, without steps, bumps or dips. The solutions for leveling these steps are substantially two: 1) lower the area of the most protruding strip to bring it to the same level as the deeper one or 2) fill the area of the most hollow strip to bring it to the level of the most protruding. In the first case it's a matter of sanding one strip in order to remove the excess part, in the second it is necessary to fill the missing part with a filler. Regarding the solution to be adopted from time to time there aren't precise rules, it's our sensitivity, experience and knowledge of how we have applied the plank. However, most frequently, we will use both methods because these differences in height are very, very common. Well, I have written that in the case of the solution #1 it is sufficient to smooth the affected area to achieve the result, while in the case #2, once the points to adjust are properly identified, we can choose between A) use putty as filler or B) glue some wood, in the form of strips of adequate thickness, in the area to be filled and then level it by sanding. Photos #01 and #02 here below show on the hull of my carrack some areas, highlighted with a pencil, where you need to apply the filler. Thanks to the high contrast of the images in daylight, many other areas with steps are also visible. If not marked with the pencil, it means that I have decided to use the #1 solution. After a preliminary roughing, I sat in a well lit area and proceeded to identify these critical areas and to highlight them, marking their right positioning. It's all for today, see you next time. I beg your pardon for my english, greetings, Jack., Jack. 01 Ragusian Carrack/07042018/IMG_20180407_105523.jpg 02 Ragusian Carrack/07042018/IMG_20180407_105529.jpg

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