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Mundie

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About Mundie

  • Birthday 12/14/1968

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    Baltimore, Maryland

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  1. Great job!!! I’m building the same kit w Hunt’s practicum. I’ve only been working on it off/on for 9 yrs now. I did a few side projects, but I’m back on the Connie.. Keep up the good work!
  2. So, I’ve been gone a while. Between Covid and my schedule- my ship has been docked for a while.. I completed a lot of the deck furniture.(nothing to hard) I’ve begun the mast. Pics / details soon to come. I did a side project during Covid quarantine building the body of a electric guitar from scratch. a sandwich of: coco bola hard maple Purple Heart maple hard maple w Schaller hardware.
  3. Rigging the cannons I decided to loop the rope around the inner rigging. Most of the pictures I’ve seen of the ship use this method.. I’ve deviantex from blocks w 2 holes to blocks w one, on the inner rigging. Most of the pictures I’ve seen, the blocks are covered w rope anyway.
  4. I decided to use 34 awg copper wire that’s coated black- and make the cannon rigging hooks.
  5. The third pic above (white styrene) attach between the cannons- and rigging hooks are attached- I used styrene- drilled tiny holes- files edges- and squeezed the center w a small “rounded” pair of needle nose pliers to simulate the roundness of the actual rigging.
  6. Ok, so I’ve started the deck furniture. I opted to use “Testers” paints for the wheel etc. I had a hard time deciding what color- you went w a brown. After looking at numerous other models, it seems it’s almost impossible to get a exact replication of the current state of the ship, so good enough is good enough:)...... I feel if I spent more time I could get a little better at the deck furniture, but I really want to keep rolling, and being inexperienced- I’ll take what I can get.. I’m currently rigging the cannons, patience is a virtue!!! I hope to finish the deck within the up coming months. I’ve been following Hunt’s practicing combined with build logs from this site and some ideas of my own- I’m having a good time and plan on building a high end electric guitar next.
  7. Hello, I’m building a Conny and Hunt’s practicum calls for “floquil rust” paint for the steering wheel. Does anyone know a good replacement since this paint has been “discontinued?”( I think- from my online shopping research) Thx
  8. Ok, so I built deck cannons- not much to them, just glue and paint. I painted the wheels before attaching to the base- and touched up the cannons after they were glued up. The little handles required a pin vice bit. Then started on the dead eyes/chain plates. A little tricky- I used a 3-way alligator clip holder for the soldering of the wire twisted around the dead eye to the chain plate. I had to paint them twice because the paint didn't bond to the brass right away. I haven't decided how I'm going to go about attaching the bottom of the chain plate to the ship. I'm going to look at some other build logs before deciding if I'm sticking to Hunt's plans or deviating a bit. Any suggestions are welcome. Thx
  9. Ok, finally!!! The smaller styrene definitely was easier to work w and looks pretty good.
  10. I had to buy more black paint (MS4830) and while I had to wait I decided to finish up the cannons. I'll jump back and finish the rails this weekend. I tried to get the wire angles (came w kit) as close as possible to the true size, but it would risk breaking the lids- so I settled for what was more practical. I decided to have them open.
  11. I wasn't happy w the way the styrene trim was working for the rails. So I decided to use a different size, I'm going to use .015X.020 (a tad thinner the the .030) instead is .015X.030- there is a big difference for the small scale of the application. So while waiting for the mail for the styrene, I started the cannon ports. I may shop around for different cannons. The painting of the hatches was a little tricky- I bought few micro paint brushes from a local crafts store- and they worked well. Tweezers where needed to attach the hinges. I purchased an "Exacto" kit when I began the model that included 3 micro drill bits that I used for the small holes on the top (white) hatches- the rope that holds the window open is attached through these holes- I plan on using the thin black wire that came w the kit.
  12. I wasn't happy w the fitting of the 2nd rail relative to the timbers- the timbers needed to be a bit farther out to connect w the rail, so I just had to ad an extension piece on 2 of the center timber to add a 1/4". It worked out ok! The top rail and supports and planking was easy. Now I'm carefully adding the styrene trim. As tedious as it may be- I'm taking my time- I want this area to look good.
  13. The timbers on the prints did not exactly line up with my model (Hunt's practicum mention this issue) so I just did my best to make them line up. I did both sides at the same time- placing both together and leaving the top point a little long in order to account for minor differences (one may be a few mm different then other (port/starboard). My Dremel came in very handy to fine tune the timbers- and I pretty much followed the prints to get the spacing and angle correct- the top lean a bit forward. The 3rd rail is tricky- it's taken some time, and I decided to make the 3rd rain after I installed the timbers. I hasn't worked out as perfect as I would have liked. I'm going to do a little fine tuning w the Dremel to the rail (in pic) and see if I'm happy w them- if not , I'm going to scrape it and start over- I want this to look smooth and blend w the rest of this part of the ship- and xtra hour or so isn't a big deal compared to not being happy w the look!
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