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Bernhard

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Everything posted by Bernhard

  1. One more thing the maiden journey was today and went not to bad. I have to change the polarity of the motor it's going backwards faster. small thing to do wrong.
  2. Thanks Popeye for liking the planking. I thought it was wrong, halfway through I had to start from the top. lt worked out in the end. No more pictures, somehow I fotgot to take more. I did enyoy the build. Next to do is finishing 2 whirligigs and a the Tram 17 I am building from scratch. Hope I am aloud to show a picture of the tram. My plan is to built an Albatros W4 water plane, the plans are almost finished. No for flying but to cruise on the pond.( I am very bad in flying )
  3. I used 2 pot glue for everything. now the planking, 2 planks at the time.
  4. More pics. Placing the deck on was not easy, after it was fixed I put teak finer on it. That was more to my liking. I had to make a few holes in the deck to spot if I have water getting in below but also to put lead in the holds for ballence. And started on the deck fittings. The Sprrow sail boat in the making as well.
  5. More pics. I did not like the supplied propellor shaft, to short and to thin. I had a bigger one from an other project and modified the rudder and shaft section. the rudder has an removable brass bottom piece in case I have to make it bigger.
  6. More pictures of the building. The start was not easy had to make the jig for the ribs. more to come later.
  7. Finally is the boat finished. To many distractions and eye problems have delayed the Finnish. Just a few pics . I made changes to the Billings kit for RC use, next week is the maiden sailing.
  8. Thanks Bob, Hope the weather will stay good, it's a mixed bag at the moment. Bernhard
  9. The masy and sails next. making the mast is easy cutting to lenght and drilling holes is always easy. I made some fitting for the mast to hold the boom and a stay to keep the boom under tension. I did decide not to have a washer on the deck but a nice shiny NZ 2 cent to hold up the mast. That is now also the name of the boat, " 2 Cents". The sails are made of drafting paper and are in place. I could not resist to get the boat in the water and did try an maiden voyage. She goos very good, but with the wind very strong this week-end we took in some water du to no seat in the hatches. The hatches where only taped into place with making tape. She is vast and a joy to sail. on return i sealed the hatches and made nice brass screws to seal it. Hope fully next week i can try it out better and start having fun with it. Cheerio Bernhard
  10. The keel post is made and finished next is to place it into the lead bulb with resin to hold in in. I must say the for my first build this is going very well, but I find the going very slow this is one of the things i have to get used to. That went well and after sanding i did spray it into the final colour. the contraption is ready to do the same but only into the hull, lots of "do i do it right or wrong" one of the things I looked very precise at is that the rudder and the keel are parallel. It worked well, I needed only a limited amount of sanding to get the finish i wanted. I masked the joint sprayed under coat , metallic gray and first clear coat this went well and looked fine. The final clear coat was a disaster the lot ended up with a crinkle coat, i looked at it and did not know what went wrong! This has never happened to my all the 45 years fine furniture making, then of course I never sprayed with spray cans on furniture. It only means more sanding and start again this time it worked very well no change from procedure sinds the last time, and was relieved it looked good. This a the result of all the hard work and I love it. Cheerio
  11. The deck looks good, sanding required on the edges and after that I put resin on it. No water will get into the hull I would say. After sanding the edges again it looks fine, sprayed under coat on it now it's back to the deck. I did not made a picture of that but this the result when finished. Now I will work on the Kiel. I made a shape of it in balsa and used that for the plaster of Paris mould in 2 parts. The casting with lead was relative easy, the biggest problem i had was that on that on the cold day was to heat the lead. checking the weight after that revealed it was only 950 gram but needed 1.3 KG. My solution was to scrape the mould out to what i thought was the right size. With the new cast the weight was 1.35 KG. Lots of filing and sanding later it looked nice an smooth. Bernhard
  12. I am very pleased with the hull. Now the inside of the hull, these small bits are sometimes a problem, fingers to big and a slight shaking of the hand. Grr old age creeping up. All the RC gear is inside and working. the deck is laying behind the hull ready for glueing. The deck is made from one lyer 0.8mm balsa and an 1.5 mm thick veneer layer. I did put resin on the underside of the deck. almost ran out of elastic bands. now the wait is for the glue to set. Cheerio from an overcast day here. PS> spelling mistakes are from speaking 3 languages and some neurological damage. And hope it is not to bad. Bernhard
  13. After making the transom and fixing it to the hull it was time to fibre glass it. My son gave me some very fine fibre glass clothe it felt like silk and is very flexible. the instructions in the manual are good and easy to follow, it worked out very well. After this I thought it better to have a second coat on the outside and when dry one on the inside as well. The next step is messy, putting the faring compound on the hull. Trying to smear it smoothly on the hull is inpossible. Sanding after this followed up with a sanding sealer coat. Till now everything went fine. Bernhard
  14. Hi Bob and Omega The sketch is nice looking but hard to sail, I thought I have a video of under sail but unfortunaly not. After I found that the hull is twisted I lined the masts nicely up, luckely one was adjustable. The Kiel was also to small, when the wind came from the side it blowed the sketch sideways, I doubled the width the Kiel stem. Now it is possible to sail with it and with some decent wind it flies in the water. But I still have to learn how to sail. Bernhard
  15. Hi Omega 1234 thanks for the interest. I have all gear already and go for a servo, in my other boat is a winch and that is very slow. I hope the servo is a bit faster. This boat was given to me and was in a bad state it took some work to have it going reasonable OK. His biggest problem is a twisted hull. Cheerio
  16. Planking the hull took a lot of time, I did 2 plank at the time on each side. the finish insight. turned around to peak inside. Hi Bob, My intention is to fibre glass the out side of the hull and resin on the inside. That will keep the water out, the deck gets resin on the bottom and lacquer on the top. Cheerio from a sunny Paraparaumu Beach.
  17. Looking through all my pictures i found them lacking, not enough next time better. I had to make the planks 4 mm wide from 75mm material, what a mission and about 98% are good, not bad. Slowly putting the first planks on, they are so thin. I used water proof PVA and pins it worked like a treat. Its slow going but i expected that. Thanks ccoyle for sitting on the side line.
  18. I have build this sparrow and am almost finished but did not want to post before I am know it works. Wood working is no problem for me but the small scale and never build a boat before. The down load from the net and printing of the booklet no problem. Timber big problem was the timber always on back order never in stock, you get that here down under in NZ. In the end i settled for 0.8 mm in stead of 1.2 mm for the planking a bit more fragile. The manual and layout of the boat called 2 cents, because I put 2 cents under the mast.( picture later) The start was easy. I leave this for now to see how it looks like in the forum.
  19. Question do you also varnish the inside of the boat, or is this to difficult?
  20. Big plastic bag and good fly/creepy crawly killer. Boat in bag spray also close bag and press the can till bag is inflated wait a day spray again and presto its done. Had to use this to get rid of crocroches i picked up in a hotel. Killed the lot actually 3 of them, but that is enough to start a war.
  21. All timbers that are RED are canceres. The dryer they are the more the irritation on the skin. And the dust inhaled from dry wood gets faster absorbed. Some people can work with mahogany for years and suddenly the are allergic. I have some problems with a lot of the New Zealand timbers never had any problems before, worked with them for over 30 years. I means always be careful, and use dust extraction or masks.
  22. You can seal the end grain in fresh cut timber with PVA , add 50% water to it, mix well and paint the ends. That is the cheapest option. I have done this a lot for my chair making workshop.
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