RichardG

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About RichardG

  • Birthday 10/30/1956

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Round Lake Beach, Illinois, USA
  1. These clamps look the same https://www.lasaero.com/site/products/article?id=L01QXTCB9. They have some other interesting clamps, e.g. https://www.lasaero.com/site/products/article?id=P04HSD711 Richard
  2. Well that adds another variable . But for me makes no difference (I tried all of them). One of the problems is how many things can make a difference - browser/browser version/screen size/image size/theme/... I think the only thing I can take away from this is - if you see a rotated image, turn you head sideways and don't blame the poster. Richard.
  3. If you inspect the actual page source, the image element is pointing at this url: http://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_02_2017/post-967-0-84426800-1486601472.jpg This image is the right way up. So basically you're uploading the image the right way up. The software running this site is saving it the right way up. But when it puts onto the page, it's rotating it. So after some thought I wondered if it's because it's exactly 480x640? So I resized the image to 479x639 and added it here. So apparently you need to avoid images that are 480x640. I wonder if there's any other "magic numbers"? Richard
  4. Maybe some really fine (2000?) grit sandpaper glued to the tweezers? Richard.
  5. Not sure why it works for JerseyCity Frankie. It's rotated for me as well. Just for fun, I tried it in 6 ( ) different browsers - all look the same. I only use my phone for photos. I always process my photos prior to upload; cropping, resizing, and yes rotating when I took the picture with my phone sideways. I've never seen them "re-rotated" during upload. So basically, I have no idea . Richard
  6. I used a razor saw for mine with a sanding stick to finish. I also did them in pairs and slightly longer than needed so I could sand them flush after assembly. Richard
  7. The copper tape I have does seem to be around 0.002 in. According to the USS Constitution the thickest plates would have been 28oz per sq. ft. See https://ussconstitutionmuseum.org/2015/08/12/copperbottomed/. This is then an 8lb plate. At 1/48 scale this would have been 0.00077. Well I'm working at 1/50th which is a bit better but the tape is still between 2.7 and 3.5 times too thick. Now even if I could get tape thin enough, I don't think it would be usable. Plus to be strictly accurate, I'd need 3 different thicknesses (28/26/22 oz). So basically I'm not going to worry about it . I'm not sure what to do about an overlap though. Yes, it's out of scale but to the naked eye it didn't really look that way (at least to me) when I stuck a couple of sample pieces to a plank. I will not be able to get a 100% accurate 1in overlap but if I don't overlap, can I avoid a small gap between each strip? Since I'm using strips there will be no overlap at the vertical joints (this will need to be an indent from the jig). So I'll have to experiment. I'm currently work on a nailing jig. Once that's done (and if it works), I'll create some test strips and see if I can actually apply them. I have to say, nothing in this hobby is simple. One thing that did surprise me was how thin these plates are in real life - less than a millimeter. Richard
  8. Last night anyway. Watched a BBC documentary on the reconstruction and sailing of a 3,800 year old Egyptian boat. Picture by Cheryl Ward It was an interesting seeing the traditional methods being used. It sailed quite well but without a keel really wallows in a swell. Of course, my first thought was "are there plans?" - it looked like an interesting build. Not too complicated so long as you have plans for the planks (each one is different). There are no frames. Here are a couple of links: https://www.britishmuseum.org/PDF/Ward.pdf https://egyptexperience.wordpress.com/2011/06/12/egypts-ship-builders-and-pharoahess-hatshepsut/ Worth watching if you get a chance. Richard
  9. Before I start rigging, I needed a more permanent setup than a board on my desk: Over the Christmas break I was able to put together a small workbench to fit in my office. The main structure is painted MDF and stained pine 2x1's I had lying around from other projects. A poplar board then made the top. Some small drawers (designed for artists pens) and some photo boxes completed the storage. I then added the 2 hard aluminium plates (discards from work), these are good for clamping my vise and when gluing. The center plywood cutting board is replaceable. The whole things on caster so I can move it around. I still need to make a final base and support for the hull (the current clamp is wobbly and not level ). Overall a distinct improvement. Richard.
  10. I haven't posted here for a while. I could do a "What have you received in the last 3 months" - that would be more interesting. But yes, I enjoy the little parcels. My last was some copper tape and a new razor saw miter box. Before that some copper and brass head pins. Before that some small wooden drawers..... "Tomorrow, and tomorrow, and tomorrow, Creeps in this petty pace from day to day.." - Shakespeare. Richard. p.s. that's one of about 3 quotes I actually know.
  11. If it is pee at least I'll get no complaints about the cost. I'll have to do it outside though (still at my rate of progress it'll be warm before I'm ready).
  12. I saw this on Dubz's Syren build http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1070-uss-brig-syren-by-dubz-model-shipways-164-18-gun-brig/page-10#entry55759. I think the vinegar cleans and the salt darkens the copper. I did find a recipe which is salt, vinegar, and ammonia http://www.wikihow.com/Age-Copper. I'm not all that keen on ammonia though.
  13. Copper Patina. As per the title I'm looking at "Overall Artistic Presentation of the Ship". For me, I don't want a green color but a dark brown. I.e. the background of this picture from the USS Constitution. For a more accurate look, I suppose green highlighting could be done. Going to the internet (where else!). Lot's of recipes. Most of the jewelry links seem to tend towards uneven finishes, decorative but not what I'm looking for. These were some links I found interesting: Color: http://www.oldcopper.org/special_topics/patina_finishes.php. No real information but I like #4 (Florentine Bronze) in the examples. I found a recipe for Florentine brown here https://www.sciencecompany.com/patina-formulas-for-brass-bronze-and-copper-W160.aspx and here http://www.artchemicals.com/kb_results.asp?ID=809. The chemicals are not especially expensive (although shipping may be). Of course the quantities would be enough for a lot of models. The recipe for "Antique Green" is "Solution hot (180 to 190°F), metal hot (200°F), cold wash water applied after metal has cooled to around 100°F. Wash solution over metal surface, let dry, then wash piece in cool water. Repeat until color develops.". Definitely not. There's also a book for the really adventurous "The Colouring, Bronzing and Patination of Metals" https://www.abebooks.com/products/isbn/9780500015018/11203772100 Before spending any more money, I'm going to try: Making a nailing stamp. Testing to see if I can actually get a patina to work on the copper tape (salt and vinegar for a start). Richard.
  14. See my post here http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/14942-the-best-copper-plates/#entry464779 for some information. I'm sure lots of other people will be able to provide more information. I absolutely agree that the bright copper doesn't look right (to me anyway). Part of my experimentation will be how do "un-brighten" it. Various folks have used chemicals (e.g. vinegar and salt) to do this. The tape seems to haves a coating of some sort, I need to work out how to remove it. Richard